Labern

What you can do it make 2 stl"s one with the lettering the other the main body. The lettering just make it 1 layer thick and you print that on the glass. then you change the material and print over top of the lettering with your body stl.

This maybe of some interest to you as it will greatly improve your print quality.

Yes making a list is a good idea. I save my print profiles with the material type and temp for the name. then I edit the material profiles on my machine with the matching name so its always consistent. Bridges like the back of the robot head are always best printed slowly so the plastic strand doesn't break and it gets more cooling. But the higher the layer height means the stronger the strand. Quality doesn't always mean low layer heights. Some items end up with a better appearance if printed at a higher layer height. If you are printing and object with a bridge and using 40 micron layers each layer is squashed flat to the layer below and the side appearance looks nice. when it comes to the bridging part you will end up with fatter rounder lines connecting one side of the bridge to the other as there is no layer beneath for it to be squashed against. So thicker overall layer makes it look more even and can be a lot nicer appearance. The nozzle is also always under pressure from the plastic feeding in and also the thermal expansion of the plastic. So the slower or lower micron layers you print the more thermal expansion which can lead to ugly overhangs and blobs. hence making sure you match the temp to suit.

Yes, If you keep every speed the same then you can select the perfect temp for the speed you are printing at. If the speed changes the the outer slower layers maybe overheated. But if the infill is fast then this maybe under-extruded as they are to cold for that speed.

What Cura version are you using? The defaults are ok for standard uncomplicated designs. The robot is small with quite a few overhangs and small pins. This actually makes it difficult to get each item perfect. The Ulti setting is a very low layer height which can print faster. But as its such a low layer height it cant bridge very well. As it goes to bridge a small gap the strands coming out of the nozzle are very small and can break making it look ugly. there are other issues related with low layer heights but its good for sloping models.

The preset profiles change depending on the Cura version you are using. Some have settings that are not ideal and can give you under-extrusion. Its best to save a few of your own so you know exactly what settings your using and adjust the temp to suit. The faster you print, the hotter the nozzle needs to be. You can find some test pieces on youmagine and try out your settings and adjust the temp so that ovehangs look good etc.

That is way to hot for 0.25mm nozzle and 20mm/s speed. try like 185 - 190deg. Since the nozzle is tiny, the feeder is pushing the plastic very slowly. this means it gets really hot. so you can then print heaps faster at the same temp you would normally use with a 0.4mm nozzle.

As i see it the heat bed kit is the same as the one in the UM2? If so when you adjust the rear point, you have it so it only just starts to bite the paper. so you can easily slide the paper in and out from under the nozzle but its touching. as the front screws are all the way in the front of the glass, the glass can deflect. so if the rear screw is adjusted tight onto the paper then the front will deflect heaps before it gets to the same level of tightness. Then you adjust the front so its the same as the back. You can slide the paper in and out from under the nozzle but it touches and the glass doesn't deflect downwards when you push the paper under.

Use the tweak At Z plugin.

Your robot isnt to bad. but at 30mm/s I normally print at 190 - 195. Have A look at This article as it maybe of some help.

You might find that support roof should help prevent a lot of the filing that you used to need to do. It makes it a lot smoother. Since I have used that feature all I need was a couple of scrapes with a knife at 90degees then a quick flame to get rid of the white bits.

Yeah for some reason its off center. you would have to change the firmware

Yeah , the bronze absorbs the heat more which allows for cooler temps. You maybe able to reduce the flow now. I print at 100%. This maybe causing you kick-backs in the feeder.

Far out that is cool. I would be useless at sculpting but this is great for people that are good at it.

I run fans on 100% 0.3mm Nozzle is from E3D.

yes it is abrasive. but it wont wear out a nozzle on a single print. probably not even on a whole roll.

Nice little box

I would look at your PTFE coupler if it has never been changed. Good article on it Here hot to change it Here

Stainless nozzles have bad heat transfer and require a lot higher nozzle temp. Also the fans cool the tip and makes it even worse. I printed the barrel with 0.3mm Brass Nozzle, 0.08layers and i think 40mm/s The build up around the Nozzle is normal for this material but may have been made worse with you not using fans.

Little bit of sanding then rubbed with steel wool followed by Brasso. But that rock tumbler in the skull time lapse looks like a good way to go.

I think that Death Trooper will get lots of votes. It's different, looks really cool and every one loves star trek

I'm guessing that your PTFE coupler is deformed. Have you done atomic pulls?

Yeah it is pretty impressive. Wow 2nd. that's cool. I would be really happy even if I got 3rd

The prompt to save changes before closing or if you select another profile will be great. Even more great if you can save changes to a new profile also