Labern

yeah, put it on 1 or something

have you noticed if the printer slows down or speeds up during any part of the print? these areas with problems maybe slowed down by the minimum layer time so you will need to adjust this so it doesn't slow down. otherwise it could be slowed down and overheated.

It looks vastly better but yes there still is some issues. Have you looked at the model in x-ray mode to make sure there are no issues ( shown in red )

That's great. Glad to help. You may need to make sure the lines are straight. If not you may need new rods. If its a new'ish machine then contact your re-seller as they may help as it maybe under warranty.

it goes slower. this can be good and bad. if slower then the hot head can overheat the layers. but it can allow the rest of the part to cool. if you need more cooling its best to print 2 parts at a time or a small tower next to the model.

That is quite cold for that speed but machines do differ and also materials. As long as you don't get under extrusion is should be fine. Hope it turns out good.

Yes. They un-clip out of the black ends. Just hold the end close to the black bit and lift it up. its quite firm.

shouldn't be needed.

I dont have a UM0 but UM2 can handle 250 fine without missing steps. I run my UM2go at 300mm/s travel. yeah they move around but the item you are printing is small. I have dropped the acceleration from standard as I had to much ghosting so that may make a difference.

your x rods maybe bent. Try rotating them 180 degrees to see if the problem reverses.

Try colder or speed it up a little. I normally run travel speed at 250.

seeing you are printing with such a low layer height and so slow you may need to go colder, 190 or even 185. you could try printing it a bit faster or a 0.1mm layer height which could make it come out a bit better. in your blocks you can see the little blobs and a few little strings. this means its to hot. increasing the travel speed might also help.

The 3 control points are the 3 legs. The linear rods are outside of this equation as they don't join onto the glass. its the glass you are making flat and they have 3 adjustment points. Even if the aluminium base is bent this wont effect it as long as the glass is flat. You only ever need 3 points of adjustment to make something level. With 4 legs you can always be fighting against one of the other points.

A 3 legged chair never rocks but a 4 legged chair can. same principle goes with bed leveling.

If you think the results have been getting with white are acceptable then just stick with it. But you may find UM grey, translucent blue, dark blue and green prints really nice. colorfabb PLA/PHA grey is really good and I have heard the red prints good.

If you require some items to be more heat resistant then get nGen. PLA is still the most easy to print but nGen does have a very nice finish.

you obviously haven't tried diamond age white and military black

Yes there are colors that print better then white. It depends on the manufacturer you use and their colors as they all differ. Grey is normally very good. I also find UM green prints nice.

You can also use Z hop if there are parts that are curling. Dropping nozzle temp can sometimes help as the issue can be small amounts of oozing that knocks them over.

It depends on if the new machine meets a different market. If it's bigger with different features, it maybe in a different price bracket with a different consumer base and therefore they may keep the UM2+ for quite some time. For example a lot of people still only have a need for a single extruder machine so why would they buy a more costly dual extruder machine (if it will be)

Nice. I haven't used copper yet but it looks like another great filament to try. Nice model also.

Ahh, another fellow contestant i see. Hope you do well. @DidierKlein has also made it into the top 12 also.

They are pretty good results. With the second test it looks a little hot in one area. But as the head is moving faster, it doesn't take long for the head come around over the previous layer. So this means the previous layer doesn't have as much time to cool and you end up with it being a bit hot. To fix this issue you either print slower and colder, or print 2 things at once. There is also a cool head lift function but i find this reduces the quality a bit. So this is where customs settings are useful. If your printing an item with a small area its best to print slower and cooler. but if the item is bigger then you can get away with printing a bit faster.

You can save the gcode, then open it in txt editor. At the end of the gcode just insert the heat bed command ( I think it M104 ) You could try a small print and see if it works.

You can pause the printer and select change material. But my suggestion earlier is by actually printing 2 jobs. You just keep the first job in place, then select print and print the 2nd job over top.