Labern

@LePaul... I think you are getting complication confused with the quest for perfection which @Nicolinux has now pretty much achieved with his superb print... all we need now is a summary of settings and procedures from Nicolinux and this thread is pretty much one of the most helpful on this forum... BIG UP Nicolinux... wicked thread! Getting reliable consistently good prints is the problem.

I'm guessing your climate is a bit dryer then mine It was during winter that this happened but there was a couple of instances with moisture in the bowden when using XT-CF20

Great. Thanks for sharing. I have always been interested in these. Not really had a use for them yet so never got around to trying them. Interested in seeing your final results though.

I found that XT-CF20 soaked up water like mad. That tended to effect under extruded layers. Once it jammed up solid and had to replace the PTFE coupler. The steam filled the bowden tube with water droplets. Drying it certainly helped.

There is a little square on the terminal that you use a small screw driver to push it in. When you push and hold that in you can pull the wire out. It's spring loaded so once you stop pushing it will clamp. Just press it in and insert the new wires. Make sure it clamps on the wires and not the insulation surrounding the wires. Give them a slight tug to make sure they are holding then your good to go.

I'm just trying to build up my posse before I take over the forum.

Yeah simular to those. I saw a guy was making hair. It could be very low numbers participate. But with a few creative minds something interesting could come of it. Maybe a separate challenge that people can just share ideas that others can code. Yes I like the coffee mug idea. T-shirts would be cool also. Stuff like that. As Titus says printer parts maybe not so useful.

Yep, I accept bribes from anyone who doesn't want to be flagged.

One thing I want to learn more about is gcode. So a "make your printer do something weird will gcode challenge" would be fun. It would push me to learn and could learn something from other entries.

all 3 of my printers have play in the z nut. 2go and extended are new but my UM2 is 1.5years old.

It maybe cheaper then the import duties

yeah it is high but i have to import most filaments at higher costs. it costs me the same amount of shipping as one roll of colorfabb. I cant order 2 many rolls at one time or i will have to pay import duties. I put my hubs pricing in the middle of what others here are charging. I don't get many print jobs ( 10 last year ) but I'm ranked 3rd in the most used hubs in the city. I guess lower pricing could get me a lot more jobs like yourself but i would need to really look at setting up one at least one printer just for that and advertise to get better awareness.

Good to know there are other options.

There is a heated bed kit that you can get from 3D Solex or one of his re-sellers if you end up having to many problems.

If i remember correctly, you can change the distance in Tinkerware fimware. Its great firmware.

Just pull it back a bit before you select print. The feeder motor will be off so you can pull it back. Its a difficult material to print with and will require a bit of playing to get it to work.

It's meant to be a global release but just make sure your reseller is advertising it as a + or you may end up with an oldie

@Didierklein once mentioned that the linear bearings are meant to be aligned so the ball bearing races are X shaped not + shaped. This will help with the loading applied to the bearing.

The Olsson block is pre-installed installed on the 2+ That's one of the great features on the + models.

I charge $10usd setup cost and $1usd per cm cubed. Support is extra and support removal is another extra on top of that. Pretty much any of your time, material usage, power and printer time needs to be considered as charge rate if your doing to make some money.

There is no way to reset this on the machine unless you hack it somehow. there is some info about it HERE you might be interested in THIS also. It will pause the printer if the filament runs out. A lot of people change to different filaments after just 1 print so this feature is not so useful but I could see that a roll meter would be good for those who don't.

Blue tape only with no glue should work just fine. Clean the bluetape with isopropyl alcohol first as it has a wax coating on it which needs removing. Try that. It is doesn't work then try releveling the bed a bit closer. You can also try a slightly higher nozzle temp to help it stick and after the first layer lower it back down slowly.

Actually I lie. The UM2+ model is not advertised on the NZ reseilers website. Even though it's meant to be available globally as of yesterday.

Yep I hear ya. Same goes for NZ.

Both the TF2K and TFT are suitable for PLA and ABS. The TFT can withstand 255 degrees The TF2K can withstand 300 degrees. So get the one that can withstand the temps you print at. The TF2K is a TFT coupler and I2K wafer that is used together and you don't need to remove the wafer to print PLA.