Labern

From the start should be fine. if you lower it during the print it will drop passed your set point 5 or so deg until it comes back and stabilizes. you can risk under-extrusion if done that way.

Well look at how many downloads and likes it has. Plus a lot of people here on the forum use it or an adapted version of it. Seeing its so open you don't get plastic build up and its easy to clean. But the fact that you just un-clip it and removed the filament makes it that much better. It uses all the parts from inside the original feeder so you shouldn't need any extra parts. Maybe one screw to hold the bearing.

as stated above You should change the nozzle size to 1mm in cura under expert settings. Shell thickness is how thick the outer walls will be and should be a multiple of you nozzle size. That's why you will have a cap as 0.4 x 2 = 0.8 and it will give a gap to make it 1mm if your nozzle is still set to 0.4 in cura.

you can contact support and buy one direct from ultimaker or you can just print THIS which is much better then the original one and faster to change material etc

You turn the steel nut, round metal bit with holes in it to adjust how much the nozzle sticks out and the gap of the white teflon bit. You have to have a gap between the teflon and steel nut but to much isn't a bad thing. You also need to make sure the hot end doesn't touch the fan shroud. here is a picture to explain it further. (it has the Olsson block installed but same rules apply)

Haha Good spotting

Oh I missed that one. Will try it out then

CURA 15.06 is BETA and has quite a few bugs. So if you need solutions quickly then downgrade to 15.04.2 as this is the last stable release. You could also try 15.09.85, Its still in BETA but might solve the USB printing issue

it's already only on 30mm/sec, lower it to how much? Default is 25mm/s, It is set this low because of grinding as Daid stated many moons ago.

Actually LED_PIN is 13 on the UMO board and pin 8 (PH5) for the UM2... ...but never mind - the LED_PIN is the default for the M42 command. You can omit the pin number and everything between "M42 S0" and "M42 S255" should work with every Marlin version out there... I just happened to be reading a post on using and UM2 for laser engraving so was a cut n paste from that article. But glad you corrected the mistake.

Yeah. These printers will look very attractive to people who are new to 3D printing. They wont know about Dual extrusion issues or 0.01 layers don't necessarily give you better prints and are major time killer.

N1: $1200 - $1400 N2: $1500 - $1850 N3: $2000 - $2400 Look more closely at the prints and they are not that great. Some good yes others not so. As the dual doesn't have nozzle lift then you may knock over you print with stationary print head. Head is different to E3D. The big one will be cool though.

Yes I notices a lot of it looked the same. they claim that the bed never needs leveling and this is done in the factory. I don't know how long that will last. Would be Nice If UM gave the UM2 an upgrade pack that has wifi and resume after power loss etc.

Hey Nicolinux THIS can help keep those cables tidy around your feeder I feel your pain, just when you think you have a really good print going you see lines not touching. I tried everything I could think of on mine and just couldn't get it to print right. But there has to be a cause. My replacement printer doesn't have any issue at all and i have really pushed it so it shouldn't be environment or material.

Just saw the Raise 3D Kickstarter. The dual prints look really bad and have no nozzle lift etc and wasn't really that impressed overall but.. What I did like was the color touch screen that shows a picture of your print and a lot of nicely displayed info. Feature to resume a print in-case of power failure full enclosure Wifi - a must these days large build volumes and lastly a 300deg extruder. It says all metal hotend so not convinced hot well this will print PLA. They also claim 0.01mm layer resolution but who uses UM's 0.02? hardly anyone. I'm guessing if UM came out with a UM3 it might have some nifty features and not more of the same. If they don't then they better watch out as some of these other packages will start to look pretty tempting.

For the fist 6 months I probably averaged around 80 but now its more like 30-40. Even though printing is a slow process its still faster then I can design stuff. I don't have enough time to organize drawings and finish designs. I have had both my printers running just about non stop for the past few days as I got in a Hubs order and my nephew asked me to print him stretchlets to sell for a school project.

This looks like under extrusion. It can be caused by many things. Tangles in filament blocked nozzle deformed PTFE coupler (prob not this if its a new printer) Incorrect feeder tension Wrong size filament or bad roll along with other causes If you are a beginner then I would suggest using CURA 15.04.2 for now as it has less bugs. you could also read through THIS guide.

Using LED J15: Control it in G Code with M42 P13 SXXX where XXX is a value between 0 and 255. Use M42 P13 S0 to turn the leds off. But I may be wrong.

Do you have the stock feeder? Sometimes the feeder drive wheel can build up with plastic and require cleaning. Have you tried adjusting the feeder tension? Have you printed with this new roll before successfully?

Glad you got it to work in the end. Hope it works well for you

It changes colour when the machine has an error and this is normal. Did you try to change the height the fans reach full? So they come on more slowly? Some versions of Cura have it set to 0.5mm this can make it very fast for them to reach if the object is small. You could make it 2mm or even higher.

I like it. Only reason I didn't go down this path is not everyone has the ability to cut and fold up the metal bit.

First: i like your design of the fan shroud anyway. ...but... i made some simple calculations... and the result is: i have to regret your reality... The distance between the side walls of the UM2 frame is 326.2mm (by design), the max. print area in x direction is stated as 230mm. At least at the time i bought it (230 x 225 x 205). Edit: I saw that this little detail has changed lately - now it's stated as only 223mm in x and y direction? Just another disappointing act from the Ultimaker marketing in my eyes... BTW: 230 x 225 x 205 is still the default area for the machine settings in Cura...? That means: Any fan mounting that exceeds a size of 96mm in x direction reduces the print area. It's not a big deal in my opinion but has to be considered thoroughly. I never actually calculated the build area. I just measured my metal fan Shroud with fans mounted. There was only like .5mm difference. But I guess with its folded design that this could change from machine to machine. Depending if it's been bent in or out. Has the build area changed since UM decided not to continue with the dual extrusion? You could possibly print slightly bigger using dual by shopping between nozzles which could be due to a change in claims.

Yes you can have bad filament, also different color may need different settings. Is the feeder skipping or chewing the filament? What temp are you printing at? you could try raising the temp. UM filament is normally pretty good but they have been having problems will silver. I have noticed that the bad silver prints better when cold. So maybe that's why your silver prints but you have problems with green?

Search to free 3d cad, Try as many as you can and watch youtube clips to learn how to use it. You will quickly find which one is easiest for you to use. Just a warning that sketchup isn't the best for 3d printing. As gpb01 mentions Tinkercad is simple for starters. once you get started then read THIS guide.