Labern

Electrical cabinets at work have fans with dust filters on them. [media-thumb=5748][/media-thumb] You wont want all the electronics getting hot. there can be problems if the stepper motors get hot 2. Good for printing abs though.

sprue cutters like THIS

Form have released the Form 2 SLA printer, so that could be a good option.

Normally cura will detect an SD card is inserted and save directly to it. Is your computer detecting the SD card? Or am i misunderstanding your question?

There is no chart for this sort of thing for many reasons. If everyone only printed cubes with the same brand and color filament then this would be possible. Models with lots of overhangs will need to be printed slower, cooler and a layer height that's not to low. 0.1 or higher seems to be good. but you could get a print with the same finish that can be printed a lot faster if its a simple shape with no overhangs. Different brands and colors of filaments can also differ in print settings to get the same appearance. Also Different printers can be slightly different and how its maintained can have an effect on quality. Tiny models need lower layer heights in general then what you would use on large models. The best way is to start recording your settings and what filament you used. soon you will build up some good CURA profiles that have selected settings depending on the type of model you are printing.

There has been quite a few reports of people with a bad roll of UM silver PLA recently. I also had a bad roll. It prints really bad and really hard to get a nice print, the other problem is it breaking in the bowden tube or at the feeder. You could try a different roll and see how it goes.

First time I have heard one break there. I have put a lot of force by accident on mine and it never broke. Maybe your molding had a defect?

Sort of. I have two Ultimakers both have had similar problems. So I've ordered new hot end bits for both. While I wait I'm using parts from both to try and get one working. So different PTFE Coupler but not new. If this has any deformation where it touches the hot end then it could be your problem. While you wait for a spare you can carefully run a 3.2mm or even 1/8 drill down it to remove any tight spots. I did this once and it lasted a few extra months.

woh that's bad.

Yeah it is better but as Ultiarjan was saying that even though his is a long strip he still has to keep cleaning it during the print as over time the oozing builds up along it. Unless i understood him wrong.

you mean like THESE ?

I guess if you were going to do the spiny disc wiper you wouldn't need a motor, you could just make a mechanism similar to the click counters, where the head can push the plunger in as it wipes and as it releases the plunger the disc will rotate a little depending on the gear tooth size. [media-thumb=5705][/media-thumb]

If you want one that's mounts the same way as the old one then you could try This or This

If there was room you could have a rubber disk that rotates after every wipe, then at the bottom of the disk have a collection bin that the bits of plastic get rubbed off and drop into.

Sometimes if i'm printing really slow and hot i have fans on full but i make them full at 5mm

you cant expect really good prints at that speed. if you want things to look really good you will need to print at 30 - 40mm/s, this will also mean you can print cooler and get really nice overhangs. Acceleration cant be changed in cura. Travel speed wont improve overhangs but it helps improve stringing.

I normally set the fans to be at 50% on layer 8-10. So they start spinning slowly at layer 3-5 and slowly increase up.

the profile should be in the new firmware. 235 -250 deg 65deg glass fans 50%

Did you also replace the PTFE coupler when you changed the Nozzle and temp sensor?

Well good cooling will allow it to print better without support. because the wall thickness is so narrow wall the overhang can end up looking ugly. What is your layer height? 0.04 or 0.06 could help.

It's getting overheated as its so small. Try to print it at 30mm/s and 190 - 195deg (PLA) Print 2 of them at the same time or make a pillar to sit next to it. place the second item to the side so the fan will blow on your item while printing the second one. This will allow heaps of cooling so it wont over heat. Adding support will help as the very top will end up ugly on the inside otherwise. you can change the angle so you only have a small amount in the very center so it will be easy to break off. you can also print something like THIS to help add heaps more cooling.

I know its obvious but you might want to state what printer you have or add it to your profile so people can see.

I print with CPE and XT without an enclosure. I have had a few warped prints but that it can be avoided as this was due to my inexperance. With a hot bed, good coat of gluestick and slow bottom layers it normally turns out pretty good.

Try upping your temp to 235deg. 220 could be a bit cold for 80mm/s, the faster you print and the higher layer height the hotter nozzle temp you need. You can drop the bed temp to 60 though as 70 is quite high.

Have a look at THIS