Labern

Example of air velocity of original design with 45deg fan mount My design with horizontal fans.

it just looks nice

Actually the 45deg angle that the fans sit at is a bad design. it decreases the flow a lot as there isn't enough room on the other side of the fans for the air to flow.

Indeed. Let's see if they get It right this time.

At the moment its best to search using google and just put Ultimaker then what you want to search. yes i have read some dodgy reports about this. Apparently home users are beta testers for pro users. Windows stating that If you are a pro user then all updates are tested by millions of users.

Looks like THESE guys are still working on one 2.

Awesome. Some interesting work you are doing and a bit different which is good.

Or THIS

THIS may help

Well you know some of the things I make But I also make a lot of thing for around the house. Not like vases but holders and 1off things that you cant buy. Mostly its for personal projects some projects for others. I just wish you would hurry up and release a Metal 3d printer

Cool, will be Great to see how you get on with this.

This still comes to Gr5"s point, If they put this in place then the people with issues will use the pause function rather then reporting the issues.

don't want to blow my own trumpet but... https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11554-um2-fan-shroud-replacement https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11554-um2-fan-shroud-replacement?page=2#reply-115795 Note the original fan air flows at 0.6m/s and mine is 2.5m/s Having the fans horizontal has many benefits. the fans are a lot quieter and it gives them more room for the air to flow. I printed mine in XT-CF20, but any higher temp filament will do and recommend using Kapton tape or Nomex heat insulator/reflect paper that @neotko recommends inbetween the nozzle and shroud.

Hey, this fits on to the original nozzle between the nozzle and fan shroud and stops any melted plastic going up in between. If you have installed the olsson block then its not needed anymore.

It goes on the nozzle before you put on the fan Shroud. It then sticks out the nozzle hole of the fan Shroud to stop and melted plastic get up in underneath. It's a new thing but it's a nice addition.

Do you get a clicking sound from the feeder when its printing those areas? Does it look ok in Layer view? Have you measured the diameter of this filament? Is it near the end of the roll?

Well past events like Makerfaire NYC and CES have seen some new releases. I have checked and Ultimaker isn't listed as a exhibitor at CES yet and last year there was a month or so warning about something new coming at makerfaire. But UM seem to be getting better at being Secret squirrel

I don't feel any smarter but ever since I got the new 2go everything just seems to print so well, doesn't matter what I throw at it. ( apart from that crappy silver roll I got ) Now my other UM2 feels neglected. ,It definitely needs a few trials done on that as I have had it apart so many times the setup is allover the place. :(

You could print 2 towers 50mm apart or so for testing purposes. You can check things like making sure the bowden tube doest move while its retracting at either end. You can adjust temps while its printing the towers every 10mm or so to see at what point it improves. you can do the same test and increase the retraction distance .5mm every 10mm As sander points out, there are multable factors that can have an effect and what might be perfect for me maybe 5 of 10 deg out or .5mm retract distance for someone else.

I print at 190 deg at 30mm/s all the time. Comes out pretty sweet. If I want to make sure it will be strong I will print at 210

I have printed these using 0.25 https://ultimaker.com/en/stories/view/17378-worlds-tiniest-drill-created-through-big-ambition

I have used Aliexpress quite successfully. delivery times were fast etc but i guess it depends on the supplier you pick. It has been mention not to buy UM2 nozzles and PTFE couplers but not sure of the quality of the peek.

It's just one from eBay. 120 mm square. I have seen that some people use them on reprap printers so should be good for a test. Thanks for the info, I ordered a small slim PT100 so will try that. Power Supply is 125W so from my reading 5W more then UM0. Seeing it's a 10W heat pad I'm hoping it won't struggle to much. I will try to test it while printing to see what it's drawing.

I just found that when i was printing it at higher temps it would burn and become brittle. The clear would have heaps of tiny bubbles as it was burning it. so I kept lowering the temp till it printed really nice. Some prints i just increase the flow to 110% to 120% for better layer adhesion. I normally print with 50% fan. But using my Fan Shroud its still more flow then the original. Also it provides even airflow. on both sides.

Do you have a printer yet? If you have one of the UM2 family then I would suggest you get THIS Olsson Block as you will be able to use a tiny nozzles for detailed jewelries.