Labern

I agree that the buy now is to close to the notification button.

I have tied the oven trick at 50deg for like an hour and it worked really well. Others put it in hot water. Just make sure you dont get it to hot or they can start to stick to each other.

How many "slots" do you need? I could make one with more spots in it. But you might have to wait until next week, I'm at a fair all week. One with 6 slots for hardened nozzles 2 of each size 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and one with 14 slots 2 of each size 0.15, 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0 would be awesome. And could you put a raised ring around the threaded holes? like the raised lettering, so I can color the rings with a felt pen so one color can be PLA the other XT.

So @gr5 , @anders-olsson or @swordriff here is my nozzle chart, could you browse over it to see if there is anything missing or incorrect? [media=7576][/media]

Some of the E3D ones have a bit less oozing but other then that I'm not 100% sure quality wise as I have done a direct comparison.

Today I have been getting scrolling issues. Scrolling down in the community page keeps jumping back up. Had this on Android phone and windows pc.

I have never printed with nylon but you say the first layer is good? So with default first layer settings its 0.3 and about 20mm/s. this may be a good indicator. slow the print down a bit and maybe print a bit cooler. Do you hear little crackles as it prints. Nylon soaks up heaps of water, this makes it expand as it heats and you can hear little crackles. So printing cooler helps But like i say, i haven't printed with nylon so what do i know.

Thanks for the tip. Narrows it down a bit. I also have quite a few with no dots. Did both the 0.15 and 0.25 come with no dots? I only ordered one 0.15 but looking at them (although hard to tell) it seems i have more then one.

How many "slots" do you need? I could make one with more spots in it. But you might have to wait until next week, I'm at a fair all week. Thanks Robert I know a lot of people request things from you so didnt want to bother you. But it would be great if you whipped one up. Im currently sorting all my nozzles so will let you know @gr5 Thanks for the list. I have merged this with the E3D one and am going through all my nozzles now. The one I got mixed up on is an experimental one with 3 dots and the end looks really different to all others. I whipped it in thinking it was 3 dots = 0.4 (as per E3D) The hardest one for me is i have heaps with 1 dot and it could be E3D 0.3 or 3D solex 0.25, 0.4.

They need a regular lube with a drop of sewing machine oil. To clean them dampen a cloth with oil and rub them, then move the head around and rub them again. Continue this till most of the gunk is removed. it should clean most of it up. The outer side rails have Bushes not bearings. so its good to give them a good clean every so often.

yes it is. or you can use TinkerGnomes firmware

Do you cut a point in the filament so its like a sharpened pencil? Make sure you always do this to prevent snags, I use sprue cutters to do this or you can use side cutters. If you do but it still gets caught then you might have some misalignment issue or something going on.

Oh I should have asked what cura version you were working with earlier. Any CURA version number higher then 15.04.3 is BETA. The version you are using has lots of bugs and you may have found one. So you can log this issue on the cura github. But for reliable printing I would suggest using 15.04.3 unless you are happy beta testing.

There is an easy solution, if you own a 3D printer... ...print at least one of this to remind you the nozzle size..., and print a couple of these in several colors (or materials) to store (and separate) all your different nozzles. Thanks to the designers for these brilliant ideas. Yeah i have one of those but the problem is that they don't hold all the sizes of nozzles i have. plus they don't hold enough. I haven't had the time to design my own yet. i need one for my 2go carry case 2.

Sounds great, yes that looks like a heap of retractions. for prints like that you can adjust the minimum extrude before retract settings. so you still get some retractions but not as often. this allows more filament to extrude before it retracts so the feeder wheel doesn't keep going over the same spot and grinding. glad you sorted it though.

I have so many different nozzles from 3D-Solex old ones and newer ones and E3d i'm so confused. so many different dots, or no dots at all. I once printed for a week with a 0.8mm nozzle that was set to 0.4mm in cura and didn't even realize till i removed it :( . that made me feel stupid. one day ill get around to printing a little chart to remind me. So seeing the etched sizes is a really good addition.

Oh yeah, I forgot it was UMO Default for that is 40mm/s. It wouldnt hurt to slow it up a bit as fast moves can tend to grind, Its like yanking on a rope with a weight on the other end fast can hurt your hands but pulling slowly doesnt. but if its retracting multiple times over the same bit of filament you can change the minimum extrude before retracting to help also

It would be interesting to try. Its a shame the softening temp is so low.

Well, I was hoping I had enough leads to get some kind of differential diagnosis going and try to narrow down the number of things I'm investigating. 3 Is there a way to upload an STL here without finding some place to host it? youmagine is the place people normally use around here. So just to clarify, you issue is that it's not completing the print and the printer stops before the top lip and lettering is done?

Mine is normally 4.5mm at 25mm/s or 30mm/s. UM set it to 25mm/s because of the grinding issue.

Have you looked at your model in X-ray mode in cura to see if anything shows in red? Also Layer view might show something. you may need to clean and grease you Z axis screw.

It also helps to show pictures of you failed print and model.

in cura look at you model in X-ray mode to see if any errors come up in red or single face that can show black. If its all purple and white then its OK. You need to learn how to use layer view as this should be done before printing every model. - Red = outer wall lines - Green = inner wall lines - Yellow = infill lines - Cyan = support/skirt - Dark blue = moves (thin lines)

I looks like you have some stringing going on. If your support is lines the oozing can knock it over. On things that need quite high support I use grid, It is less likely to fall or break. You could also try adjusting you retraction settings or printing a bit cooler to help stop oozing or stringing. The support looks like its not stuck to the bed very strong? does it peel off really easy? you may need to clean the bed with alcohol as the blue tape has a wax coating on which needs to be removed. You could also adjust the bed up a bit maybe.

I was also referring to the same method of manual extruding. If you watch the filament Going into the machine when its printing at 10mm/s, the speed is slower than how fast you can manually extrude. If that makes sense Check the whole filament path. Bowden tube for tight spots, PTFE coupler, tangles in the spool etc.