Labern

Are you sure you downloaded the correct one for your nozzle?

Print 2 at a time. it needs extra cooling on small layers so printing 2 at a time allows it to cool more.

I have noticed there are a few issues related to the small holes that run out from the center hole in layer view. I wasn't able to get it to slice them properly. I wonder if those loops are related to that.

Impressive! To be fair, though, the metal fan mount that comes with the UM2 isn't very efficient. It has large pockets where air gets trapped and gaps where air escapes... This is true. As the fans cant really compress the air they don't like pushing against anything. Having a flat surface so close isn't ideal and most 3d printed shrouds with 45deg fan mount have a flat surface very close.. Also you will notice that the fans are a lot quieter when horizontal as there is no side loading.

Welcome to the Forum. It is fun indeed. Its great to see you joining the Ultimaker community and sharing some upcoming ideas and will be good to see some of your future projects.

its normally the whole shaft moving and the black spacer hitting the bearing. you need to loosen the pulleys and push them against the side so the shaft cant move from side to side.

If there Is a gap of 2 horizontal flat surfaces in cura then it will do a top layer then infill. Its a bug and not sure when it will get fixed. If the gap is small then it wont be effected but the bigger the gap the worse it gets.

If you just print pla it can be ok but i still recommend some sort of insulation.

Thats huge and maybe your problem gap should look like the one in this photo. are you using the olsson block as well as teflon coupler?

In cura if you go to Expert settings then you will see fix horrible and a few check boxes. if the model is fine they can all be turned off

can you see any issues under x-ray mode. (any red parts) you could try turning off fix horrible.

I agree with ultiarjan. Looking at the assembly this should be simple enough to do. I was thinking about something like this the other day so I'm glad I read this. Now I'm interested in NBroenner's idea.

That is a big drop, There is a guy working on a similar one HERE for around that price

It looks similar to the zebra stripe issue but to the extreme. The 45 angle area where the part folks out on one of the photos looks good. Have you tried printing the item on a 45 deg angle on the bed? Wont explain the clean part where the hole is that Gr5 is talking about though.

Does the stepper motor have to be mounted externally? Is there a program change to use the geared stepper motor?

Did you get the screw out? You can use torx keys (star shape) as they can some times grip when it's stripped. It uses an M3 grub screw.

No they don't melt. Teflon is a good insulator so it's not very hot at the top. The problem where it deform's is where it touches the hot end. It may not be the Teflon that is causing all you issues but if your not using the glass filled ones then the lifespan will be shorter. 200 hours is pretty short though. How big is the gap between the teflon and steel nut? it should be about 1mm if this is to big then the increased spring tension can also shorted the lifespan.

Well that just looks like classic under-extrusion. Could be quite a few factors, Filament tangle maybe? hehehe @SandervG beat me to it

The Teflon gets squashed and so the inside near the exit becomes more narrow. It can be hard to see. In the past I have re drilled it out to the correct size and gotten a few more months. If you print a lot of abrasive material then it can also get to big and cause issues. You could print a wedge tool to separate it from the Steel Nut to aid in removing it. If you are unable to design this then I could draw one up tonight. If you do remove it for replacement then i recommend you use THIS or THIS as these can help prolong the life as you will no longer have the spring constantly applying force and deforming the Teflon.

Havent used it but its very interesting

The Teflon coupler from 3D Solex is not glass filled and will be more prone to deforming, Its recommended to use this with the I2K washer. Might be good to check it again. If the belt is loose on the top you can loosen the pulleys on that side so the can rotate and let the tensioner even out the tension. Then re-tighten them again. Have you tried different rolls? are you using a low roll? Could be a lot of causes, any pictures of the problem?

If the gap is to big then you start to get the infill issue. I normally set the gap to 0.1mm Have you tried no support?

http://colorfabb.com/corkfill No I don't have a sample , just got an email after reading this thread

The speed it quite fast and this will give it more of a beep sound. Default is 25mm/s so you could try that and see if the sound is more acceptable.

Colorfabb now also have corklay. Also another gimmicky filament but has a nice looking finish. Looks like it hides layer lines well.