Labern

Well i'm not old or wise but I already need to fill up those bald areas :( but i would rather be bald then look like Donald Trump

Its pretty cool. Not sure if i would ever require it but its very interesting.

You can get some Velcro braided sleeve like the one found Here to tidy up your cables. But it also gives you the flexibility to access them at any time.

Wow thats a bad case of under-extrusion you have got going on there. The PTFE Coupler can deform which can cause issues like this. This normally starts happening after 500hours or so but could happen earlier if you print at high temps or have models with heaps of retractions. Have you looked at the Trouble shooting guide or the Advanced Tips section of the website? there is a lot of useful information that could highlight the cause of your issue.

I fails when it can't reach the desired temp within a certain time. Different firmware versions have different times in which it alarms. You could try an older version of firmware I think pre 15.0 (can't remember the exact version it was implemented) Otherwise you could change the heater cartrage to one with a higher wattage so it will heat faster.

It's there to help stop any plastic buildup going up inside the fan shroud.so don't worry it was there all the time. Are you printing with spiralize turned on. This gives a rhythmic tick.

It's inverted using Z unlimited

Those air dust spray cans are full of crap and wouldn't recommend using them.

Xt doesnt print as crisp as PLA. I have the Olsson block installed and my settings are no way near what colorfabb recommend to get anything decent.

the the white indicator there is a little nut. if you unscrewed it to far this may have come out. USB printing isn't stable yet.

Awesome. Glad you got it fixed

That is a very good idea. It's definitely worth it

it doesnt screw all the way down. you screw it till you have the 2mm gap between the white and metal bit as DidierKlein stated

set you travel speed higher. I normally set mine to 250mm/s 30mm/s print speed will give you a really nice robot and you can print at 190. also printing 2 at once helps add extra cooling

Short answer: you cant get a smooth surface on overhangs. heaps of fan, slow print speed and low temps help but you will never get them as good a normal walls

You might have a deformed PTFE coupler. there is a write up and images Here that may help

You will have to contact support to get one. Give them the part numbers from here: Part 1 Part 2 Pull one end of the bowden off and push the filament through, it should be pretty easy to push. if there is a tight spot then it may need replacing.

not really unless its getting to hot. but normally it will deform the filament if its hot. Skipping back means its not slipping (good) but there is 2 much pressure build up. if the feeder is 2 tight it can squash the filament 2 much and be tight in the bowden. or there could be something wrong the the hot end like blocked nozzle etc. If the feeder is to loose then in will slip and grind. but in your case if the filament is moving to the side its possible that it could grind even with good contact. what material, temps and speeds are you trying to print at?

He's using the V6 lite which should work on bowden

The filament shouldn't bend in the feeder . Maybe there is to much pressure build up or the wear has weakened the arm so it bends slightly. It's a hard part to temporarily fix when you can't print.

Read Here

Bronzefil is abrasive stuff. Are you sure you assembled it correctly. As long as its staying on the bearing it should be fine. can you see if the filament is coming off? there other feeders you can print like THIS one but you need to get it printing first. Make sure the filament is on the knurled part of the drive wheel.

All the files for that machine can be found HERE I dont have an UMO so cant tell you cant point you to the exact ones you want but I found 2 more spacers on that list HERE and HERE They are not hex ones though. so you may just need to go through most of the items on the list. Sometimes UM revise the machines but not all the drawings are updated.

Is This what you are after?

There is top / bottom speed in Cura, it was mentioned a while back that it's hard to detect the last top layer as there can be many top layers in a model. The top bottom speed works well as long as you dont go too slow then it can end up 2 hot. Just a few mm/s seems to work best. Slowing them down increases the print time heaps though.