tinkergnome

These are the things that i would try first: 1. There are two linear roll bearings in the printhead. Since the printhead has already cracks... check if these bearings are still seated in the correct position and orientation (not twisted or tilted). 2. Oil can resinify / gum over time, so take sure that any old residue is thoroughly wiped off (with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol). That counts for all 6 horizontal shafts and the two vertical shafts of the z-axis. For re-oiling of the 8mm shafts only use light oil. Oil that is meant to be used for sewing machines works best. 3. To rule out a broken stepper motor: loose the x and y motors, so that you can remove the short belts from the motor shaft. This will not affect the perpendicular gantry system, so it's an easy ("non-destructive") test. Move the printhead and rotate the motor shafts by hand to check where the actual resistance comes from. All of this with a non-powered printer of course. 🙂

That's easy to answer but probably not very satisfying to you.... 😏 It's the wrong printer and the wrong nozzle size. If you install this material from the marketplace you get quality profiles for AA 0.8 print cores. One for each of these printers: Ultimaker 3, Ultimaker 3 extended, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 You can still add one of these four printer models to Cura and have a look at the settings, but that's it. It's not (directly) usable for anything else. The marketplace website is perhaps more useful for you. There's the list of printers that are supported by this profile and links to the appropriate colorfabb website with general printing advice. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials/colorFabb_team/colorfabb_woodfill

Well, my best suggestion is: change the GCode-Flavor in Cura from "Ultimaker2" to "Marlin". This gives you full control of the material settings in Cura, and the (limited) options on the printer are not used anymore. I did it this way and never looked back. Regarding the "MATERIAL.TXT" file - My lazy approach in the good ol' days was: - use "material" -> "settings" -> "customize" on the printer and change all available settings to your liking - save this as a new preset ("Save as preset" -> "new preset") - it will get a name like "CUSTOM02" or similar If you want a more descriptive name for it: - export the material file to sd-card - open it with a simple text editor and change only the name from "CUSTOM02" to "ASA" (do not touch anything else) - (re-) import the file on the printer

Hi @Bublifuk21, since this is your first post: welcome to the community! Assuming that you use Cura as slicing software - the temperature settings are explained in the online manual: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012610379-Material-settings You can set a custom value for any of the five temperatures if you switch to the "Custom"-mode.

Die Materialprofile im Marketplace sind oft nur für bestimmte Drucker oder Filamentdurchmesser vorgesehen (bzw. angeboten). Wenn Dein Drucker unter "Compatible printers" nicht aufgeführt ist, stehen sie dafür vermutlich auch nicht zur Auswahl. Zur Kontrolle kannst Du einfach mal in Cura (versuchsweise) einen kompatiblen Drucker hinzufügen. Dafür müssten die gezeigten Material-Profile dann auch auswählbar sein.

That's still confusing... and "does not work" is not precise enough to give you any advise... Marlin will not start the heater without a connected temperature sensor (and readings in a plausible range). So, you have somehow connected a heater cartridge and a temperature sensor to the Ultimaker board. E3D uses thermistor cartridges AFAIK - so neither thermocouple nor PT100? I assume you have to elaborate much more to get any useful answers. What have you already tried and what exactly does not work? As a start: - Which kind of temperature sensor is connected? That's very important - each (kind of) sensor works different. - Where is it connected (pin numbers or connector names on the board) - What's the value of the used pullup resistor? - compiling and uploading the customized firmware already works - right? - How do you control your custom firmware? Serial console? Which commands are used? - What's the exact error message (if you get one)? ...feel free to extend the list where needed... 🙂

For the sake of completeness: schematics of the mainboard are published on GitHub https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)

I think a lot of important information is missing... There are several firmware variants and branches, what is line 168 referring to? I guess you changed "HEATER_0_MAXTEMP" to 335 or higher? That should be correct. But... wait... thermocouple? Where is it connected? The "temp" inputs on the UM2 mainboard are for RTDs only (PT100) For any other sensor type you can probably find (and configure) some free pins on the board to connect the sensor and the pullup resistor. On the firmware side: Use one of the supported temperature tables - set the correct value for "TEMP_SENSOR_0" (configuration.h - there's a section with comments) and "TEMP_0_PIN" (pins.h) are there more unmentioned changes on the hardware side? in any case: be careful and respect the warnings in the Marlin documentation https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#thermal-settings ...and please test it thouroughly - don't burn down your house...

The small frame all around is probably reserved for the brim - take a look at the build plate adhesion method. The other areas are probably not reachable for all extruders because of defined extruder x/y offsets. I would disable all extruders but one to check the reachable area (and set correct offsets where needed of course). If the firmware already takes care about those things, you should set all offsets in Cura to zero. Cura will un-block these areas then.

It depends... The following applies only if you use Cura and the (default) GCode-flavor: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013127919-Custom-material-profiles-for-Ultimaker-2-and-Ultimaker-2-

Smithy was faster.... again... 🙂 - but anyway: Somehow i doubt that it is supposed to look like this....? So probably.... nope. A solid, manifold, "watertight" object is crucial for 3D printing. This one is a mess of 43 separate shells with either unconnected or intersecting faces. Partly with wrong normals and so on. You should consider to use a CAD program for modeling of such things... If you want to repair it manually, there are several tutorials, something like this: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry/

A have not the slightest clue how the CuraEngine works, but... a search for "infill_sparse_density" in CuraEngine results in zero hits. It's obviously not used at all. It seems like "infill_line_distance" is a better bet... 🤷‍♂️

Sounds familiar... Is it connected via WIFI? And if...: WIFI connections on printers are usually very weak. Maybe one or more networks in the neighborhood are using the same channel from time to time and make it worse. If you can - try to configure a different channel on the WIFI router. ...or route a network cable and be happy for the rest of the printers lifetime 🙂

Start here and follow the links if needed:

correct baud rate is 250000 In addition you have to find the correct COM port of course. But USB cables highly differ in quality. There are even cables "for charging only". So - if you have the choice - try a different cable first. Preferable one with ferrite cores.

I see what you mean. Creating a new material ist not a problem - as long the material type stays the same. So making it harder to accidentally create a new (unsupported) type could be helpful. On the other hand - since the quality profiles are depending on the material type (or: are linked to it). What's the point to duplicate a material without creating a corresponding quality profile as well? Especially if we are talking about similar or near identical materials. Just to give it a different name? 🤷‍♂️ Or does it actually change any relevant print setting of the pre-defined quality profiles? If one has to make changes to the quality profile in any case - why should i bother with the material at all? (as you can see 🙂 - i use Cura for years and never touched the material configuration)

Only defining a new material is not sufficient in most cases. That's what @nallath tries to explain all the time... Here is the reason: - the machine definition is (probably) configured to use materials and quality profiles (in combination) - quality profiles are made for a specific machine, a specific material and a specific variant (nozzle size e.g.) - adding a new material is only the first step - you have to create proper quality profiles for all combinations as well (only the material is not sufficient) - once the quality profiles are in place - they will show up in the dropdown - if there are no quality profiles for the choosen material.... then there is nothing to choose from Be aware: Creating the whole stack of needed files can be a lot of work. There's no user interface AFAIK, but all you need is a text editor. Kind contributors have done this for many of the non-Ultimaker machines. But if you add a whole new material, it's your task. Alternative: Set "has_machine_quality" and "has_variants" to "false" in the machine definition. Afterwards you should always see the basic profiles in the drop down. There's a nice pictures in the wiki. As you can see, "material" is only a small part in the stack...

Alles klar, dann ist es nicht der DDG (wie im Titel gesagt). Der DDG-Extruder wird ohne Motor geliefert und ersetzt einfach 1:1 den UM2+ Feeder. Der UM2+ Motor bleibt dabei unverändert montiert und nur für diese Kombination gelten dann die 311 steps/mm Evtl. hast du das "QR"-Kit verbaut? Dann müssen die Steps geändert werden auf 492.45 - das ist auf der Bondtech-Seite auch so angegeben. Im Zweifel zeig einfach mal einen Link oder ein Foto von dem, was jetzt eigentlich montiert ist...

In case you want to stick with "UltiGCode": https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013127919

Oh - and don't use "copy and paste". Here is an easy way to download the file from the gist page: click on the "Raw" button choose "Save page as..." in your browser (shortcut "CTRL+S" in Firefox and Chrome) copy the file into the "scripts" folder (steps 1 to 5 from the linked page) I made a test right now. Worked flawlessly.

Now you're talking about programming in Python and/or interpretation of error messages you get? At first i would ask the author of the original Python script. Did you made any changes or just "download and copy file"?

Which (kind of) printer are you referring to? It was ever possible and it still works like described above. It's not hard and has to be done only once. BTW: those two requirements are not working well together... "very tough IT restrictions" but devices are allowed to choose their own IP addresses? I think this approach is questionable to say the least... (but that's a different topic of course)

That's a quite unspecific question, ...or is it a question at all? The first thing that comes to my mind is... well... adjust the end-script (in the machine settings dialog) to your needs and you're done. I guess answers will get more specific if you elaborate the task a bit more. 🤷‍♂️

Probably yes. I would swap the pin numbers between HEATER_1_PIN and HEATER_BED_PIN Take sure that you are in the correct section (MOTHERBOARD == 72) and it should work.

The buildplate heater draws a lot more current than a hotend. Dunno, but you should be absolute sure that the capability of the outputs is really the same before you change anything. There are probably only minor things to change on the software side, but you have to compile a custom firmware in this case.