tinkergnome

In this case it's easy - do not print PLA with it. It's not made for PLA. Warm PLA sticks like crazy to metal. That's why hotends that are suited for PLA do have this PTFE-inliners (well... most of them). Or do some hardware tweaks, especially if it's not a genuine product. A good all-metal hotend is very well polished on the inside (or even coated). That makes it (kind of) usable with PLA, but also much more expensive. There are some good points in this old topic of the RepRap forum, or ask your favourite search machine for "all-metal hotend PLA". https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,664823,664891#msg-664891

That's a file for an Ultimaker S5 (with GCode-Flavor "Griffin"). The buildplate temperature is set in the header section (the comments at the beginning of the file). That's all the printer needs to know. Why do think it's a bug?

I'm only guessing, but perhaps the default script is used because the customizable part is empty? What happens if you put a single comment line in there instead of an empty script? Does it make a difference?

The "bugs" are probably in the stl file. Here are all mesh errors marked with a pin (you can check it with Meshmixer). It seems like there are already "magnets" positioned in each hole. There's the "puck" (with 6 holes) and 6 "magnets" in the file - (overlapping the holes) - 13 distinct shells in sum. So... remove all the extra geometry and it should slice fine with Cura: Puck_with_magnet_holes.stl Good luck!

The linked thread is referring to an "Ultimaker Original" printer from 2013 (with plywood frame). But you use an "UM2+" tag for this question. So.... let me ask first: what kind of printer? Default e-steps value for the genuine UM2+ assembly (feeder and motor) is 369 Have you modified the printer? Why do you have a need for calibrating?

It's a PWM output between 0-24V - depending on the "Brightness" setting. The led strips are for 24V (at max. brightness).

As far as i remember: the leds are 3 strips with short (soldered) connector cables in the corners. All held in place with some (self-) adhesive on the front panel. The whole strand came out in one piece on my printer. It's a while since i removed the (broken) strips, but i definitely did not disassembled any panels, that's for sure... 🙂 I just loosened the adhesive and pulled the strip out. Do you have any pictures? This picture is borrowed from the assembly manual: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf

Well... the connection to CuraEngine does not work. We already knew that. There are no entries about a specific reason in the log file. 🤷‍♂️ It just repeats this cycle over and over again (note the timestamps): 2020-12-16 20:13:27,792 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._backendLog [110]: [Backend] Calling engine with: ['C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0\\CuraEngine.exe', 'connect', '127.0.0.1:49674', ''] 2020-12-16 20:13:28,908 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._logSocketState [192]: Socket state changed to Connected 2020-12-16 20:13:28,921 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._onSocketStateChanged [181]: Backend connected on port 49674 2020-12-16 20:13:28,930 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._onSocketError [218]: Backend crashed or closed.

Well... the error message means that the folder "google/protobuf" is not there or the folder "....../protobuf/src" is not part of the C++ include path. "protobuf" is published here: https://github.com/protocolbuffers/protobuf

It depends... Which printer and which firmware version(s) are you talking about?

Ich will dich ja ungern bremsen... aber... Auch wenn ein "reverse engineering" technisch möglich wäre... Soweit ich weiß hat die Firmware für die S-Line Drucker keine Open-Source Lizenz (*). Nicht das Du da Probleme bekommst... Kläre die rechtliche Seite besser zuerst mit Ultimaker ab, bevor Du die Firmware für deinen eigenen Drucker verwendest. Heutzutage ist das u.a. fest mit der Cloud / Digital Factory verknüpft, das ist nicht so simpel und bestimmt auch nicht mehr für solche Modifikationen gedacht (von einer öffentlich verfügbaren Dokumentation ganz zu schweigen...). (*) ausgenommen ist die Arduino Firmware für den "Motion Controller", dieser Teil basiert auf Marlin und ist Open Source. Das nützt Dir aber für den angedachten Zweck nicht viel. P.S.: die Alternative vom @zerspaner_gerd finde ich gut!

One possible cause is a blocked communication to CuraEngine. There's a firewall permission to set during installation of Cura - don't block it. In any case: take a look at "cura.log" and search for error messages. For the location of the log-file see: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura#logging-issues

I have no idea - but a few questions: - Does it make a difference if the broken part of the encoder is not attached? - What happened to the black plastic housings of the connectors? - Are you sure that both flat cables are in the correct orientation on both sides (red marking)?

Das wäre in der Tat der korrekte Weg. Wenn zwei Geometrien sich überlappen - welche davon soll dann bevorzugt werden? Wie wählst Du das aus? Für das überlappende Volumen sind ja nun beide Extruder zuständig... Cura entfernt standardmäßig die Überschneidungen und druckt jede Lage abwechselnd. Das kann mit den beiden Einstellungen aus dem Screenshot unten beeinflusst werden. Aber Du hast trotzdem keine direkte Kontrolle, welcher Teil entfernt wird. Da musst Du experimentieren und wahrscheinlich spielt die Reihenfolge ein Rolle, in der beide Teil-Dateien geladen werden. Besser ist aber... siehe oben 🙂

quick question: Is the opening in the middle part an intended feature, or is there something missing? (picture is from your stl file)

If you're talking about the "change material" menu: It's not a setting that is adjustable by gcode commands. You have to customize the firmware if you want to change this. (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_material.h#L18)

The source files for older printers are published on Github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Extended#ultimaker2extended I guess, you are asking for "print head shaft x" and "... y"?

That's how i understand it: "Prime Tower Brim" is a separate setting (try the search function). It will be disabled (by default), if the adhesion type is already set to "Brim". That means: for the default profiles it is only enabled if the adhesion type is different from "Brim". So - simply disable "prime tower brim" explicitly if you don't need it.

it depends... on what exactly is broken. One crucial point: For security reasons Marlin firmware requires at least a connected temperature sensor for each configured heater (doesn't matter if a heater element is actually connected).

The arduino drivers are responsible to create the (virtual) COM port. If this does not work, there's no point to proceed with different Cura versions or any other software. Are you absolute certain that there's a genuine Ultimaker board in this printer? (most "clones" need different drivers) The Arduino forum advocates against USB 3 ports and cables, that's perhaps worth a try? The USB-cable that came with the printer would be my first choice. https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=521669.msg3557386#msg3557386

👍 ...und jetzt rate mal, woher ich das wusste 😊

That's easy: install pronterface (or any other software with a serial console) connect via USB cable, COM port depends on your operating system, baudrate is 250000 use the pronterface console to send two gcode commands to the printer: M92 E415 ;set e-steps M500 ;save settings more about pronterface: https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360048171391-Sending-Gcode-Via-Pronterface or - even easier: put the two lines from above in a (plain) text file save the file on sd-card as "esteps.gcode" "print" the file as any other gcode-file Check the Marlin firmware 1.0 documentation for more details about specific gcode commands. The use of a more powerful heater needs perhaps some tweaking of the PID values. I think there is a menu option on the printer to change these values (if needed). Default values of the UM2+ are here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206

Sind hier vielleicht irgendwelche wichtigen Dinge ausgeschaltet?

I quote myself: That's the opposite of a manifold geometry. You can load the stl files in Meshmixer (e.g.- like i did above) and it will show all mesh errors in different colors. Why is a manifold mesh important? https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry/#Part-3