personal-drones

La densite du PLA est de 1.2 - 1.4 gramme/cm3 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid), donc le calcul du volume a partir du poids fourni par Cura, est bien facile. En assumant 1.3, ca veut dire que pour avoir les cm3 il faut multiplier le poids en grammes par 0,77 Simplify 3D a une function interessante: il permet de inserer le PRIX du filament et calcule le cout de la piece automatiquement. Ce serait bien de voir ca dans Cura aussi, ca devrait etre bien facile a ajouter.

You have to go in the "Advanced" tab. There is a "bottom layer speed" parameter. No plugin needed.

As tu essaye d'effacer l'imprimante et de la creer a nouveau? Peut etre le profil est corrompu?

You need to carefully re-level your bed. Then in cura, set bottom/top thickness to at least 0.8-1. Decrease the speed to 40. Increase infill to 25. If you do all this you should get much better results, then you can work it from there.

Here is the video: It's all correct except that removal of the "center" fan is not required for replacing the teflon spacer. Take care, on re-assembly, not "pinch" any wires within the head and to not tighten too much the main long 4 screws (the ones you can tighten manually through the black knobs) as I hear it is not needed and not good.

They are available in the store. However buying this from the store will take ages to deliver, may I suggest you look at an USA reseller. Replacing is very easy, there is a youtube video on how to disassemble the head (will now look for it for you). Really easy, anyone can do it with a little care. This is my teflon spacer story: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9320-is-this-teflon-coupler-gone/

May I suggest you replace your teflon coupler? The atomic pulls helped me (and indeed they are a good practice), but the new teflon coupler solved the problem for good.

Well if you choose some gold plated numbers to start with, you could have saved much much more than just 44$.

Get a new teflon asap

Bernard merci pour ce post. Est ce que tu as un link pour les aiguilles?

At less than 150$ and free shipping, I am not sure why everyone is complaining about the lack of a dual extruder http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-D-printer-parts-Ultimaker-2-UM2-dual-extrusion-kit-Nozzle-hot-end-kit-set-assembly/32266345360.html

http://learn.colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-woodfill/

What about doing a test in which you control the temperature through the printer directly. To me it looks like the temperature is too high. Wonder if using the reprap gcode could be the issue here. At 210° I can print the ultimaker blue with no issues. True that it is not one of the nicest PLAs around, but still, something is wrong with your prints. I have quite nice pieces printed with the "default" blue filament.

Not to my knowledge. What the slicer does is to compute the model, layer by layer, no way around this. The thing is, if you first printed one peak, then "go down" and start printing the second peak, the head could run into the first peak and knock the model down. You can indeed print two different models sequentially on the same plate, first one, then the other, but this is another story.

They analyzed the hot end design, found problems and are now making some improvements before they let the package through.

Bonjour Alain, les photos dans l'article representent des objects mal imprimes. C'est ce que tu pourrait avoir juste au debut, sans aucune experience. Ca prend quelque jours pour devenir familier avec les parametres d'impression, mais avec un minimum d'experience tu peut avoir des resultats superbes. C'est une imprimante super, je la conseille vivement. Du solide. Bonus: une communite ouverte et amicale. Tu ne va pas rester seul avec tes problems, si tu en aura.

Dovresti verificare che le cinghie di trasmissione corte, quelle nella parte posteriore della macchina, siano ben tese.

May I suggest you try layer height 0.1, print speed 30, bed temp 55, temperature 205

I would try to move it as far left as possible, minus 1.3mm

Got Ballistol and applied as you indicate. Funny that as soon as I applied it, the printer became a tad more silent. Some little noises just disappeared. Thanks for sharing the Ballistol info, most useful

I would level after the wine, calibration will be better

Hello, sure, I am on the waiting list to get one from the next batch However honestly I would not buy an "Extended" if there were no improvements at all with the Hot End. Then I would wait to see what the UM3 line will have to offer. We shall wait and see I guess.

I am looking with interest at the extended. I am particularly interested in the increment in the Z axis. However I am really worried about the underextrusion issues of the UM2. Will these be fixed/addressed in the new UM2 models? Or will those be the very same, with the teflon connector issues, the "fake" double holes extruder alluminum support piece (and consequent non optimal usage of the fans airflows) etc? Can we expect to see at least the release of a single extruder optimized hot end upgrade for the current UM2, that would fix the above mentioned issues? Will I be able to change nozzle size easily? I really love my UM2, however it has known issues that I would love to see addressed "officially", before I buy another one.

Shnick very glad we nailed it down so quickly. Also good to hear drilling worked, thank you for the update.

Well I went for a new one now. I must say it is so much hassle to deal with, or just fear underextrusion all the time, that I am just happy to replace it if this solves the problems for good for the next 340 hours of print