Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

personal-drones

Dormant
  • Content Count

    257
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by personal-drones

  1. Great job! May I ask which temperature and speed you use to print with a 0.8 nozzle at 0.5 mm layer height?
  2. My suggestion is to do a deep cleanup of the nozzle with the atomic method, take a deep breath and start over. If you print PLA over 230, the results will be ugly, like we can see in your pictures. PLA is supposed to be printed at 210°C on average. You can get up to 230 max, but the results will be nicer at lower temperature. In order to keep the temperature in the correct ranges, and avoid underextrusion, you need to print relatively slow. I suggest you start from the quick print, normal quality. Then go to expert settings and click yes when it asks if you want to keep the settings. Then,
  3. Yesterday I was printing a box for my nozzles. After a while, I had a look at how it was coming out, and this is what I saw: Pillowing. I hear Illuminarti's voice from somewhere above me. "It's the fans", he says, "It's the fans". I look at the fans and indeed they are not spinning. Check the led display, it says fans 100%. So I stop the print and start playing with the wires coming out of the head. And indeed, if I tilt the cables in a certain way, fans will start. I expose the cables, but visual inspection does not help, everything looks fine. Indeed, there is one connector that must
  4. If you install the previous version of the firmware, will the printer behave or do you still have problems. I wonder if you may have some loose connections to the board, and this would be a way to test it, so that you are really sure you can blame it on the firmware.
  5. Hi Warderoid, the object as it is won't fit my UM2 build plate in cura, some scaling down is needed for the model to "become blue" in Cura. My suggestion, if you regularly have to print such large pieces, is to get the Olson Block and use a 0.6-0.8 nozzle. This will let you print much faster, at an higher layer height, without fear of underextrusion. Otherwise you could try layer height 0.2, speed 40 for inner shell/outer shell/infill and see if your times get better. Then print at 220°C. The problem is that you have some quite steep overhangs in the upper part of the model. Raising the
  6. Are you sure you are really printing at 25? Did you set 25 in the advanced tab of cura, or did you just set 25 in the basic settings speed (which will do nothing). Those overhangs in the lower part of the body are really nasty and they don't look printed at a speed of 25.
  7. Bonjour Huru, Speed il faut faire attention a aller dans le tab "Advanced" de Cura et régler la vitesse pour les differentes parties de l'impression. Tu va voir que le default pour l'infill c'est 80, ce qui ne va pas du tout. Mon conseil c'est de laisser tout comme c'est deja, sauf: inner shell: 40 infill speed: 40 outer shell: 30 Temperature 210 Pleateau 55 Dans le tab "Basic": Layer height 0.1 bottom/top layer: 0.8 (et non pas 0.6, le default) print speed 40 (en principe le speed dans le Basic c'est ignoré, ca va utilizer les speed que tu decide dans le tab Advaced)
  8. Izzy beautiful job, solves an important problem for the placement of the UM2. Indeed the fact that you have to access the back easily is kind of limiting on where you can place the machine and this is a nice solution. Will look into the thing, thank you!
  9. Alors la ca va beaucoup mieux Oui celles ci tu les peut imprimer, en principe tout ce que tu trouve sur myminifactory est bien imprimable. Pas pratique parce que un layer de 0.02 mm c'est tres "fragile", c'est plus facile qu'il se "dechire", c'est plus difficile a gerer en general, ca prend un temp "impossible". Par example pour les portes a faux en general un layer plus epais peut donner des resultat meilleur que un layer ultra fin. Si tu insiste avec 0.02 mm tu va galérer, ce n'est pas le bon choix pour avoir un qualité excellente avec Ultimaker. Par contre 0.06 mm est tout a fait faisable
  10. Certaines des figurines dans la page ne sont pas du tout evidentes/faciles a imprimer. Ca va demander des supports e une bonne dose de travail post-impression pour chaque figurine. Et tu pourrait trouver certaines figurines pratiquement impossibles a imprimer comme il faut. 20 microns ce n'est pas pratique et pas necessairement ca va te donner une meilleure qualité. Tipiquement tu va arriver maximum a 0.06. 20 microns en pratique ca ne s'utilise pas. La precision depend surement de la vitesse d'impression, plus lent c'est mieux. Pour faire des choses très petites et très précises, une Form
  11. Izzy very smart, very nice, thanks for sharing the photos! When I enlarge it says I do not have permission to see the photos, any setting to make them "public"?
  12. C'e una interessante discussione in corso qui sullo sviluppo di un blocco riscaldante alternativo per la UM2 che consente di sostituire gli ugelli, chiamato "Olson Block" (dal nome del membro del forum Anders Olson che lo ha sviluppato). Io l'ho installato e sono molto contento di averlo fatto: Ora posso usare ugelli da 0.25, 0.6, 0.8 in alternativa a quelli standard da 0.4. Posso dedicare (l'ho già fatto!) un ugello ai materiali abrasivi come bronzefill e XT CF20. Il sistema dispone di una serie di accessori collaterali. In particolare è raccomandato l'utilizzo di un telaio per le vento
  13. Amedee comme premier essai j'ai decidé de faire 4 mm. Le Ecks original, en fibre de carbone, c'est 3 mm. Infill 30%, shell 1.2, bottom-top 1mm, layer 0.1 mm. Ces truc la ca tombe du ciel, ca doit etre resistant (et un peu flexible au meme temps)
  14. J'ai presque terminé d'imprimer mon dessin de quadcopter inspiré du modele Ecks Fibre. C'est un peu moins sexy des post précedents, mais j'espere que ca pourrait interesser tout de meme Par rapport a la forme originelle du Ecks j'ai ajouté deux petites plateformes pour la camera (sur le devant) et l'emetteur video (derriere). J'ai aussi ajouté deux petites plateformes latérales. In n'y a jamais assez d'espace pour le composants sur ces petits quads. Dans la foto en bas vous pouvez voir le meme modele, monté, que j'avait decoupé manuellement en plexiglas - voir http://www.personal-drones.net
  15. Printing a quadcoper frame I designed based on the Ecks Fibre model. With respect to the original design I added two little platforms for the video camera and video transmitter at the front and back. I had already built one from plexiglas, cut "by hand" with a dremel (see the second photo). Amazing now to be able to design it, print it and possibly share it thanks to my UM2. Colorfabb XT CF20, most appropriate for a quadcopter in general and for the Ecks Fibre in particular If you are curious about how to make one of these things, you will find a full description of this build here: ht
  16. This is a smart and simple idea, like it a lot
  17. Izzy very interesting. Any chance you can post a picture of your setup? Benjamin I suggest you buy a couple of replacement teflon couplers, so that when it's time to change it (after 3-400 hours of printing), you won't have to wait 2-3 weeks for delivery.
  18. Very nice print! I had the same problem with tiny rounded structures going up, nearly impossible to keep them really in place. Going slower can help but it is not a "final" solution. It was heroic that you standed there and acted as a "human support" I would guess you could activate Cura supports, play with the settings in the expert settings and see if you can add some more useful support structures. If you have simplify 3D you could manually add some additional supports. I hear that also meshmixer allows you to add supports, not sure how though, still have to try that.
  19. As Tommy said. Try to print with a Brim so that the piece stays in place.
  20. FormFutura c'est bien aussi, j'ai eu des excellent resultats et pas de problemes.
  21. Got my I2K from the previous batch yesterday, thank you Swordriff. Installed it together with a brand new teflon coupler, everything looking perfect so far. Will check my teflon coupler in 200 hours of print or so to see if I get the expected protection from deformation. If it really works as advertised (I am sure about that), this will be a little game changer in itself, while waiting for the Impossibilium thing.
  22. As tu essayé de calibrer le plateau? As tu la meme chose avec un modele different, n'importe quel modele, pour un test?
  23. Ciao non è che caricheresti una bella foto del tuo setup? Io mi sono organizzato così: Nessun problema di attorcigliamento mai. Per i problemi del filamento mangiato, nella mia esperienza dipendono sempre da una resistenza al passaggio nell'hot end. Spesso dovuta al famigerato "Teflon coupler", quel pezzetto bianco di teflon in cui si inserisce il tubo bowden lato hot end. Va sostituito circa ogni 300 ore di stampa o meno. Con il tempo si deforma e inizia ad opporre resistenza al passaggio del filamento, che non potendo avanzare viene mangiato dal feeder. Il mangiamento a sua vol
  24. Netfabb basic has a very nice ruler tool to measure distances in stl files. You could measure the hole in netfabb so that you can calculate precisely how much you have to scale the model in Cura,
×
×
  • Create New...