avogra

I think Extrudr Green-Tec is the same stuff relabeled. Maybe you can find that instead in the USA?

With the 0,25mm nozzle i could improve adhesion by printing the first layer much slower, like 10, max 15 mm/s. at 20mm/s i sometimes had the issue, that sharp corners and thin circles could be dragged away by the nozzle.

Taulman says that alloy 910 is their nylon which is easiest to print, together with their fda certified. I wanted to try it for quite some time but there are other things on my list i want to do first, so no experience from me yet. I too don't have any use for XT. Still have 2 sealed rolls here. for high temp stuff i use biofila PlaTec, maybe their silk and linen might be interesting too?

About the small nozzle: I think the problem is the feedrate. With the tiny hole and very small layers, the feedrate would be so low that the feeder would move by a step only once in a while. apart from that i never tried anything less than 60um and in most cased overall print quality will get worse, e.g. overhangs can get quite ugly at small layer heights.

Noch ein Gedanke: Bei mir hatte eine der Bohrungen im Heizbett einen leichten Grat, so dass die Glasplatte nicht plan aufliegen konnte. Das könntest du auch noch kontrollieren.

yes, that makes absolutely sense

Did you have alook at @cloakfiend 's prints? I haven't seen anything better yet. Just one more thing: Does your friend have an UM2 or UM2+ ? I think that makes quite a difference. If surface quality is that high a priority then i would imagine that resin printers would be the first choice?

Yes, I have seen that direct link to the dashboard. I prefer the topics view because here I can grasp much faster and more complete which threads/posts are interesting for me. I usually go down the list of topics until I reach the first which has no blue bar on the left. Now, when I think about it, to me there are these types of threads: A) Threads I have posted to, so someone might wait for a response from me B) Threads I'm interested in but only read passively C) Threads that are new and I'm interested in D) Threads that are new but I'm not interested in E) Older threads I'm not intersted in In the topics view I can discern these quickly. This time, there is a scrollbar right of the textbox and I also can scroll with the mousewhell. Did you change something in the last hours?

I think, the forum is harder to reach than before. My usual usecase 2 or 3 times a day was before: enter "www.ult" then press enter as autocompletion did the rest to go to www.ultimaker.com; then i clicked "forum" and was ready to scan through the latest posts. now i have to hover over "Community" and find the forum among 20 other entries. I have to be careful that on the way to the link i don't accidently hover over one of the other main categories -> "Resources" lies in the straight connection line between "Community" and "Forum". This happens like every second time I try. So I have to navigate back to Community, wait for the menu to change and now take care to move the mouse down first and then left. And I have to avoid clicking on the top category "Community", as this takes me somewhere else again, just hover. For me, daily use was better before the change. Another small annoyance: In Firefox V46.0.1, Windows 7 x64, the text entry box for new posts has no scrollbar and doesn't react to the mouse whell. So if I enter a post (like this one), I can't scroll up and down to see what I have written already. Instead I have to alternatives: A) Increase the textbox with the handle in the right bottom corner. B) Scroll up by moving the cursor with cursor keys.

usually, the elephants foot only happens at the very first layer, but yours seems to be several layers high. I can't see it on the pictures. does it go narrow shortly after the first layer and then some layers later a bit wider again? This could be the fans turning on. Maybe set "fan full on at layer" to a higher value and reduce fan speed a bit? But I think you have to live with that effect to some extend. If it is your own model, maybe add a notch to the bottom to compensate for the foot?

nachdem niemand drauf geantwortet hat: hast du s schonmal mit 0,1mm 30mm/s probiert? oder ist das keine option? der unterschied der oberflächen zu 0,15mm bei 50mm/s ist bei mir ganz beachtlich. wenn du sogar 0,2mm benutzt...

in my opinion the most direct approach to reduce them is smaller first layer height like 0,2 maybe 0,1 mm. But that needs a perfectly levelled bed.

The extra nozzle isn't much hazzle at all and i think a steel nozzle will stay with you quite some time even if treated by xt-cf20. I also heard that it is a great filament for sanding. Might be just right for you. Also look at what @cloakfiend is doing, he developed his very own method to get high end surface finish with PLA. He has a long thread where he shows many results and gives detailed steps to achieve them.

Maybe the sensor wires loose contact, when the bed warms up? I heard of some people who had problems because the glass plate was too close to the aluminum plate with the springs highly compressed. Then the aluminum squeezed the contact block and did somehow damage the wires.

I think the main advantages of the Ultimakers can't be found in the datasheets. What makes them the good machines they are: they are very mature. That means firmware and software have no major bugs, hardware is rock solid so you get the same good results after 1000h as at the first print if maintained correctly. And probably most important: The very good community here. The bowden is certainly a tradeoff. To start with the disadvantages, a bowden printer has no chance against a direct drive when it comes to printing flexible materials. Also retraction heavy prints are much easier with direct drive. The main advantage of a bowden printer is that the printhead is very lightweighted. The benefit of that isn't so much that you can print at higher speeds but the head can be accelerated much faster and still cause less oscillation. Therefore it mainly improves print quality, e.g. walls after sharp corners are less wavy. That is also why the construction materials are really clever. They aren't aimed at stiffness so much but more at dampening vibrations. The machines that seem to be closest to fdm-printers are cnc milling machines. Although mechanic movements are quite similar, they have very different aims. Milling machines have to be as stiff as possible because there are high forces that tend to bend your mechanics and then cause rattle, deviations and so on. That is a non-issue for 3d-printers. So heavy metal, a lot of weight etc. might suggest high quality and reliability but actually help little when it comes to the problems 3d printers have to face. A friend of mine recently bought a CraftUnique CraftBot PLUS for ~1000€. When I saw his first print, a voronoi teddy bear, I was really envious. Why did I spend 2,5x times of what he did? After a short time he started to replace some dead fans, most bearings and rods, he is thinking about how to improve the cooling, what would be a good alternative printing surface, etc. Software is very promising, even outstanding, but still far from finished. I too did some modifications but nothing close to what he did or is planning to do. So in the end I'm happy again, even if I will have paid more compared to him including his modifications. Yet again, there are certainly other high quality printers too. I'm not very well informed what is currently out there. I got curious about the BCN3D sigma, the principle for dual head is really nice. I didn't find much user feedback until now. There are many more. Just make sure, hardware and software are open source. I think this really essential. I think a general problem when asking people for their opinion on fdm printers is, that most have experience with exactly one model: The one they own just like me :PThey have worked with it many months or years and know all the weaknesses an strengths. On the other hand, magazines and online reviewers have laid there hands on dozens of different machines but don't have the time to test them to their limits and see how well a machine performs after 6 months of daily use. About filaments: I tried XT-CF20. It worked quite well with a 0.5mm steel nozzle. Up to now, I only printed a test part. I had no application until now where I thought "wow, good that I have XT-CF20 here". There are other filaments out there, which are really exciting. My favorites at the moment are Biofila PlaTec, which is super easy to print and withstands up to 115°C, Taulman Bridge Nylon, which is nasty to print but super robust, a bit flexible and very slippery. Still have to try their Alloy 910. But most of my prints I just do in plain PLA

Wenn es auf wirklich gute Oberflächen ankommt, würde ich generell auf deutlich niedrigere Layerheight und Speed gehen. Mein Standard für saubere Drucke sind 0,1mm und 30mm/s. Das bedeutet also auch nur knapp 1/3 Materialdurchsatz pro Sekunde.

Stimmt, ist ja spannend. Ob da einer vom anderen zukauft? Extrudr hat das ganze auch noch in bunt 8)

that z-scar and the varying layerheight both happened when spiralize was used with a model that isn't suitable. With the right model (only one continuous shell line in each layer) it will of course have no z-scar and nice layers

hihi da warst du einen moment schneller. und ich hatte gar nicht gesehn, dass es ein deutscher thread ist

Biofila PlaTec by twobears. They say it's based on lignin, biological and withstands 115°C. Currently my favorite, it also has a super nice surface.

to come back to lego: i heard that those bricks have very tight tolerances, in the range of 1/100 mm. so maybe the print isn't too bad at all but requirements for a good fit are even higher.

Bei "one at a time" druckt er ein Teil komplett fertig, dann das nächste. Damit das erste Teil dann nicht am Gestänge anstößt, darf es höchstens 50mm (glaub ich) hoch sein. Den Modus kannst du oben ich glaube unter Einstellungen ändern auf "all at once" (keine Ahnung wie es auf deutsch heißt). Dann druckt er die erste Schicht vom ersten Objekt, dann die erste Schicht vom zweiten Objekt, ... die erste Schicht vom letzten Objekt, dann die zweite Schicht vom ersten Objekt usw. Wenn du nur ein Objekt hast, macht der "one at a time" Modus aber eh keinen Sinn.

yes, in two ways. spiralize will print only one shell, so for a thicker shell you will have to use a larger nozzle. But I think your model won't work at all, because it has two shells each layer, one for the outer contour, one for the inner contour. spiralize only makes sense with massive models. it prints the model, but without the benefit you would expect from it. i learned by printing a hollow vase. one contour was printed with incrementally rising z, then the inner contour was printed at constant z. then the next inner contour at rising z then outer contour at constant z,... so in the end i had a z-scar and aditionally varying layer height.

I think spiralize only works if there is a single wall at each layer so that it can be printed without any travel moves. your model has an inner and an outer circle which aren't connected so i think it won't work right.

Hmm, I just read through some old threads about PFA vs. PTFE bowden. Ultimaker seems to use a 1/4" outer diameter and 1/8" inner diameter tube which is roughly 6,4mm and 3,2mm. The PTFE i bought is 6mm/4mm. No problem so far, but the imperial size seems better to me. There are a few european shops who sell those imperial ptfe tubes too, but far less than 6mm/4mm and most in large quantities only. The german shop www.2printbeta.de seems to sells short lengths. Never heard of them. It certainly is much easier to find imperial tubes in the US.