avogra

Nylon is really nasty stuff to print. Especially getting it to stick to the buildplate. Quite a challenge if you call yourself a newbie, but you will get it done too A) Bed adhesion: Up to now did you use anything to help the print stick to the bed? Or are you printing on clean glass? If so, you have no chance. You definitely need something to improve adhesion. There are many options that should work, like valcrows hint. I had good luck with woodglue (D2) diluted in water and some puffs of window cleaner. There is also those adhesive sprays or surfaces like Buildtak. I think many work and everyone has to find their own favorite. B) Moisture: Nylon is highly hygroscopic and soaks a lot of water from the air. If you leave it open on the bench for a day, it already starts to print worse. I always keep the spools in a closed plastic bag with several desiccants. I found some type that changes color when they are saturated so you know when to put them in an oven to regenerate. Also, if you have any relation to electronics, there are small cards packaged with sensitive microchips, that signal the level of humidity changing color from blue to violet above 5%, 10% and 50%. When I print small parts, I get the spool out of the bag just before printing and put it back immediately after. If the print takes longer, I put the spool in a bucket with a cap and only let open a slit to feed the filament to the printer. In there, I too put some desiccant bags. If your filament is already soaked with water, you can dry it in an oven. I didn't have to yet, maybe someone else has experience? You will notice bubbling/spitting sounds from the hotend when the nylon has soaked water. C) Type of Nylon: I haven't tried Taulman 618, only Bridge and 230. From what I heard, 618 is their first Nylon and they improved printability with each new type. So Bridge is probably easier to print than 618. The quite new Alloy 910 is said to be the easiest according to Taulman3D. With those newer versions they also reduced the hygroscopic effect. Do you have to use 618? D) Print settings: Which print settings do you use? The last settings I wrote in my notes are Hotend: 240°C, Bed: 75°C, printspeed 30..40mm/s, layerheight 0,15mm. But that was for Nylon Bridge, no idea, if 618 is behaves very different. As always, a good bed leveling is crucial. Good luck, sooner or later this stuff will have to give in to you

then +1 what you and the others said

@swordriff, 1/3 might have been a bit enthusiastic It was only by feeling. From Bondtech I had my first PTFE tube but it has 4mm-6mm. The only shop i found selling 1/8-1/4 inch tubes to german endusers was 2printbeta. I guess PTFE can be had in quite different qualities, so you are talking about something special?

+1 for a manual autoscale button

Die Marken vom Bondtech Feeder sind im Vergleich zum UM2-Feeder nur gaaanz leicht ausgeprägt. Vielleicht sind die eh nicht mehr kritisch. Ich habe mir einen kompletten Halter aus Taulman Bridge Nylon gedruckt. Der ist etwas flexibel und dämpft wesentlich besser als direkt montiert. Lauter als der UM2 Feeder ist er aber immer noch.

@gr5, i think both 3dsolex' as well as ultimaker's are PFA. PTFE had maybe 1/3 or less friction when i compared them to ultimaker and 3dsolex. curvature does hardly matter anymore. Up to now, nobody could explain me why ultimaker is using PFA instead of PTFE. Onl advantage i see, is that it is more transparent.

Are you printing on plain glass? I think 185°C is too cold for good adhesion to the buildplate. For difficult parts, I increase temperature to 220°C for the first layer and then reduce it gradually during second layer to the desired value. Another typical reason for bad bed adhesion is a slightly too large calibrated distance between nozzle and glass.

I think it works well without support because curling due to overhangs usually needs some layers to build up and they build up at corners first. in a thread you only have circles and after only a few layers the overhang stops so there is little danger of curling.

Reinigst du die Düse regelmäßig mit atomic pull? Ich würd auch mal den guide von 3dverkstan durchgehen. da gibts noch einige weitere tipps. hab leider grad keinen link, da unterwegs. Ich druck selten 0,2mm, meistens 0,15 oder weniger, würde es aber auch deutlich gleichmäßiger erwarten.

Viel Erfolg, ich drück dir die Daumen, dass das alles ist

Ich würde ihn mir auf jeden Fall als erstes mal anschauen. Hier gibts ne Anleitung, wie man ihn ausbaut und gegebenenfalls austauscht.

Faustregel ist glaub ich, dass der PTFE-Coupler so 300-500 Stunden durchhält. Das würde ja genau passen.

Könnte das ungleichmäßige Extrusion sein, also mal zu wenig, mal zu viel? Dann wäre meine erste Vermutung, dass der PTFE-Coupler am Ende ist. Wieviele Druckstunden hat er denn schon?

I have a UM2 (non plus) where i changed to a ptfe bowden and the bondtech feeder. I can print ninjaflex at 30mm/s easily, but retractions are far from perfect. I didn't want to wait for the new UM2+ feeder. Is it better than the old one with respect to filament guidance? @gr5, there is more flexible material than ninjaflex. don't remember the brand, but it is some tpe type. from what i have seen, tpe can vary in a large range in hardness. I still have a bit laying at home but didnt find the time to try it.

@chris123, kein Wunder, die Kombination aus Haarspray und Brim ist ja schon massiv, das reicht bei mir sogar für Nylon (Taulman Bridge) aus. Normales PLA sollte auch ganz ohne Hilfsmittel auf der nackten Glasplatte halten. Wenn die Geometrie etwas kritisch ist, erhöhe ich die Temperatur am Anfang auf 215..220°C und geh dann ab der zweiten Schicht langsam auf 200°C runter. Das allein macht schon ziemlich was aus finde ich. Beim UM2 (kein UM2+) kanns leicht sein, dass der Temperatur-Sensor stark daneben liegt. Ich hab vor meinem Upgrade auf Ollson Block, neuen Heater und neuen Sensor mal mit einen Thermoelement in der Düse gemessen. Bei 210°C angezeigt hatte die Düse tatsächlich 235°C !! Keine Ahnung ob es auch Drucker gibt die deutlich kühler als angezeigt sind.

Hast du nachgemessen, ob das Filament wirklich 3,00mm hat? Manche Anbieter schreiben 3mm drauf, meinen aber tatsächlich 2,85mm. Innofil habe ich noch nicht benutzt aber ich glaube, dass es auch 2,85mm hat. Ansonsten hat es ja Mikar schon gesagt: Das Material mit all seinen Eigenschaften wird bei der UM2 Familie üblicherweise am Drucker eingestellt und nicht in Cura. So kannst du den selben GCode mit verschiedenen Materialien drucken. Die Optionen sind in Cura trotzdem vorgesehen, da man es ja auch mit anderen Druckern verwenden kann. Cura kann verschiedene GCode-Dialekte erzeugen. Für UM2 ist das normalerweise UltiGCode. Wenn man das auf Reprap umstellt, kann/muss man die Materialeigenschaften und Temperaturen in Cura festlegen statt im Drucker. Ich finde es aber deutlich praktischer so wie es ist.

In total I was busy more than 4 hours from setup to STL file. During that time I also did things like measuring the exact angle of my calibration corner and doing a reference scan with a precision control square ("Haarwinkel" in german). So time related to that scan was maybe 3 hours. If I would do it again, I think this would be less than 2 hours now. There is certainly a learning curve. I guess an automatic turntable reduces scan times a lot. I understand know what @nallath wanted to say ;)The webcam limits scanning speed with its 5 fps at 1600x1200. Maybe 800x600 would have brought similar results? Setup was some minutes for connecting everything, setting distance and focus to match the squirrel's sice and adjusting the camera. Then you remove your object, instead put the calbration corner in its place and start the calibration scan. After that you are ready for scanning. Takes maybe 10 minutes. In total I took 55 scans but I didn't use all. 15 were from slightly above, turning the squirrel around its axis. 8 where from the bottom with some funny tools to keep it in position, 6 from the top and I took some more after first alignment to fill remaining holes or areas with bad quality. I spent like 20 minutes on clearing the single scans from background, some artifacts and the mentioned tools. Maybe 30 minutes for alignment and another 15 minutes for further clearing. I think the software guides you very nicely through the whole process. Cleaning the scans is very easy too. Still you need some knowhow like which perspectives are necessary, in which order do you align the scans etc. The main problem with my first scans was, that my calibration corner wasn't exactly 90° but 89,7°. when you stitch one scan to the next and do that with 10 scans, first and last are off be 3°, which is a lot when matching scans with high resolution. Now I know, that you can tell the deviation of your corner to the software and everything is fine

When I look into my profile, I see my avatar which will be visible in each post and in the background I see one of the images from my 3d prints. I just sorted some images into an album when I saw the option to use an image as "profile picture". I thought that it would change the background picture. Instead it sets the avatar. Now I still have some 3d print as background and an avatar I don't want :-P . Can I reset the avatar and can I change the background somehow?

And that is what my setup looks like:

This was my first satisfiying scan. Don't ask about the object, a friend wanted that, I just needed anything to scan

also when measuring, make sure, you don't use the sharp edges close to the tip but the flat area more in the back so that you get a larger contact area.

Yes, that is for sure. I had the camera laying around, so it would have been stupid to not try it out. Actually I have little problems with banding. In the David forum I heard, that the latest David 4 cam is rolling shutter too. Or maybe a misunderstanding? Currently I use a shutter time of 1/30s or 1/20s so it integrates 2 resp. 3 frames. Maybe this helps too in reducing the banding? But sensitivity and noise are certainly issues. When I scan something where the texture contains light and dark areas I get quite some noise in the darker areas. For my first tests, I quickly resorted to using the chalk spray they sell. I'm already eyeing for the real thing, but prices for useful cams are 300€+ without a lense and hardly any to be found used :( David 5 even seems to bring dual cam support! Why do they do this to me Maybe I will look for another lens and a second logitech now and later I can upgrade to proper cams with little lost. Hmm, you tried both? It is really that much of a difference?

Just as a sidenote: Fine threads are possible too. For a C-Mount lens i have printed a thread with 25.4mm diameter and ~0.75mm pitch at 0.08mm layer height and it worked better than the c-mount extension adapters made of aluminium that I bought from ebay. I only added 0.2mm to the diameter, which seems necessary for all vertical holes.

i have both installed and use both depending on the project. when i want to throw something at the printer without much thinking or if there is lots of details in the layer view, i use 15.04, but most of the time, I have settled for 2.1.2.

The david sls sets are really super expensive. but you have the possibility to compile your own hardware. i bought most stuff used on ebay. acer k11 beamer was 100€, achromatic lens 20€, logitech pro 9000 webcam laying around but can be had for 40€, high quality c-mount lens 90€, tripod was around, david sw 400€ and i certainly spent like 150€ on other stuff. something around 800€ in total. Had my first really good scan yesterday :)pictures coming soon!