avogra

Oh, I thought I had linked the shop: www.2printbeta.de If you are in the US, you can just look for 1/4" outer diameter, 1/8" inner diameter ptfe tubes. And yes, i have a UM2 with ollson block.

ich habe den bondtech feeder und diesen PTFE bowden. damit hat ninjaflex auf anhieb funktioniert. ich finde dass ptfe deutlich weniger reibung als der pfa schlauch von ultimaker oder 3dsolex hat. ist nur nicht einfach, den in zölligen maßen zu bekommen.

i had hazzle free prints with ninjaflex and the bondtech extruder. Also swapped the PFA bowden for a PTFE bowden. not the one from bondtech, which has a too large inner diameter. Worked at first try.

Achso, die 750g sind natürlich nur das Filament, ich würde also sagen, du hast noch ca 170g Filament.

meine Waage sagt für eine Innofil-Rolle 249g, eine ColorFabb 255g.

Instead, you can bend the endstop lever a bit, so that the endstop will be pressed earlier.

Also have a look into Biofila PLAtec or Extrudr Green-TEC. In my opinion they print even better than PLA if you give them a little help for bed adhesion. Might be difficult to source in the US though.

Obviously I still have a lot to learn So my scepticism against the Einscan seems to be unjustified. As well as my opinion about turntables. Another project to add to the queue

Pah! it happened again! This time, when I posted my reply, the smiley was fine. I just pushed edit to add the last line and this time the space was removed! Might be I did the same in the linked post, I'm not sure anymore.

There seems to be a bug related to the smileys which I often notice and then forget about 5 seconds later :PWhat happens: for example in this post, i used 2 smileys inside the text. when posting the reply, the forum software somehow removed the space after the smileys embedded in the text and now instead i have something like "hardware ;)At" in my post. Im absolutely sure I entered the text with a space after the bracket! And if you type R-n-D without bars, it will replace the D with a smiley too.

@xeno, can you shed some light on the sizes that can be scanned with the einscan? is 700mm the upper limit for a single scan or for the final object? And can you make closeup scans of things like 50mm tall?

Good question. My personal preference would be the David, especially at that price. But of course I'm biased now, that I decided myself Anyhow, I think the David is more open, more modding friendly and more versatile. distance and angle between camera and beamer are adjustible and components are more or less industry standard. For someone who is tinkering with a 3d printer, I could imagine the Einscan might be limiting at some point. I didn't find more detail about the range of sizes, the Einscan can handle. They say maximum 200^3 mm^3 with the turntable and 700^3 mm^3 without. Is that maximum total object size or maximum size per scan? And I didn't find anything about minimum size. For the David you find lots of user examples from coins or even coffee beans (only with mods) up to cars. Most Einscan Examples seem to be in the range of 100..200mm. The turntable is far less important for SL compared to laser scanning, at least from what I can say due to my first 2 test scans :PThere I usually took like 8 scans around, stitched them together and then looked for missing details like holes due to undercuts. I then chose good orientations to get a nice shot of those regions, often tilted, then one from the top, one from the bottom. If there is still something missing, take another shot. The turntable is only good for very scanning friendly models in my opinion. And still, I find it sexy to have one. Hmm, shouldn't be to difficult to build one, the David software is open for custom hardware ;)At least a rotating platform might be nice that you turn by hand.

I have almost finished a David-3D based structured light scanner with DIY hardware. The licence is still on the way but I'm very pleased with results using the demo. I will post a new topic soon.

wow, nice design! One question: Isn't it possible to reduce the size of the carriage? when you look at the current stock carriage from above the printer, the carriage is currently centered relative to the crosspoint of x-axis and y-axis with the filament path in one corner. Your design is centered to the filament so the axes are off-center. What if the axes go through one corner and the filament through the other corner? of course you would want to keep the fanshroud symmetrical to the nozzle. Or is it the bearings dictating the overall size of the carriage?

Oh, das mit dem Feeder hast du ja selbst schon durch, hatte ich übersehen. Die Fehler sind auch alle ungefähr auf der selben Höhe oder? Ich würde mal manuell die Z-Achse in kleinen Schritten absenken. Da müsste man ja auch mitbekommen, wenns hakt. Bin mir nicht sicher, ob man dafür Tinkerware braucht, oder obs die manuelle Kontrolle auch in der Standard-Firmware gibt. Oder ein GCode-File, das einen 0,15 oder 0,2 mm Schritt pro Sekunde macht. Dann musst du nicht jedes Mal was ausdrucken um zu sehen, ob Maßnahmen was gebracht haben. Achso, ich würde den Fehler eigentlich erst mal in der Mechanik und nicht in der Elektronik vermuten. Die Elektronik könnte evtl. Schritte verlieren, aber dass sie die dann nach ein paar Schritten nachholt, halte ich für unwahrscheinlich.

Sieht nach ganz klassischer Underextrusion aus. welches Filament? Günstiges kann viele Probleme machen. der Ptfe Coupler ist ja auch ein Standard-Verschleißteil. Wenn du bisher nur PLA gedruckt hast, sollte die neue Version aber ja lange halten. Einige frühe UM2+ hatten einen Defekt am Feeder. Da hatte sich der Hebel der das Kugellager hält zerlegt. kennst du den Guide von 3dverkstan? Einfach mal ein paar Gedanken

That problem I had too recently. Solution is: You have to define the stops in reverse order! first instance pause at 1,4mm, second instance pause at 0,8mm. I don't remember where I found that info, it was somewhere documented. Anyway, after that change, everything worked fine for me.

I think the the shaded areas are the same, but when you place a part inside the shaded area of another part, it will still slice both as long as they don't touch. Oh, and don't forget to disable auto-placing in the preferences. Don't remember how it is called exactly. But you might be right and it doesn't work, it's just from memory when I played with V1.99 when it came out.

I think with the new Beta 2.1.x, you can place them as close as you want as long as the actual models don't touch.

Great to hear

do you think realtime drying is feasible? you would have to extract humidity which has crept into the core of the filament. I can't imgine a way but getting it out over time.

I think Nylon Bridge is too flexible, don't know about the other nylons, maybe Alloy 910 is better? Basically Nylon should be a good choice for gears, but 0,1mm teeth? that sounds unrealistic in any material, even steel.

For walls, Cura always wants to do 2 shells, so minimum wall width with a 0,4 nozzle should be 0,8 mm. Even then, Cura somtimes has problems, so i usually make walls like 8,1 mm. or you reduce nozzle size below 0,3mm

no, but it helps airflow, if there is a bit of space after the fans before the first obstacle blocks it. the part of the fanshroud that guides the air towards the nozzle is still exactly the same.

maybe there is an intermittant contact somwhere at the pt100, it's cable or at the connector, so that the temp reading is low and the firmware puts the heater on steroids to compensate?