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nilrog

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nilrog last won the day on May 24 2018

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About nilrog

  • Birthday 12/19/1970

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    SE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2

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  1. It is...we are at least a few who are using this extruder on our Ultimakers and it works great :) The main reason why the discussion stopped is that the creator is, sadly, no longer alive :(
  2. I would stay away from GreenTec/PlaTec for mechanical parts that are subject to force in any way (based on my own experience). It has very good resistance to heat, but that material gives in (softens) after a while. How long depends on the amount of force it is subjected to.
  3. I did not say that it doesn't work...but given the aggressive way Apple tends to remove deprecated stuff means that the days are numbered for using OpenGL on MacOS.
  4. Do you have a plan, after fixing this slow performance on current MacOS versions, for how to handle the fact that OpenGL is deprecated in MacOS Mojave?
  5. I think it is something with Mojave and Cura that has made the app more or less unusable, and not only Cura. I use both Cura and S3D on an MBA that only has Intel Graphics and in the past (as in pre-Mojave) zooming etc. was ok...but now both of them are soo slooow that I hardly want to look at the sliced model 😞 Everything else works ok...and even Fusion360 still works just as fine as it did pre-Mojave. For Nvidia cards Mojave is the beginning of the end with Apple, sadly, as they have more or less dropped support for those cards and users are reporting performance issues with Mojave.
  6. If you print the rotated top there is no need to reposition the switches. Ofc that works too, but imo it is easier to replace the plastic top. Get the UMO(+) firmware from @amedee, configure the options you want on the website and it will build a new custom firmware for you: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ As for slide blocks, I can recommend these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2353849 They allow you to utilize a bit more build volume, and you can easily adjust the belt tension.
  7. Yes, the tool is also on github, so you can download it and run it on your own computer. You need Arduino and a webserver, and the Bultimaker tool. https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Bultimaker Once you have that setup you can modify whatever you want in the firmware code and compile it using that tool. Just make sure that the firmware source is his fork of Marlin/Ultimaker.
  8. That firmware is a fork and major improvment to the UMO+ firmware...and is what, afaik, everyone that tinkers with their UMO(+) printers are using. You can easily build it with the webtool he put online at https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ If you are modding the firmware you could download that tool and run it locally to compile the firmware...and if you make a new (awesome) change to the firmware send him a pull request 🙂
  9. Interresting mod...but the place where the special parts is found is all Chinese...so trying to order it is like playing lottery 😞
  10. Even 3.4 is sloow on a Mac if you are used to the speed of S3D...the UI is decent...but could be alot better...slicing though...that takes forever. Using Cura makes the coffe machine work hard as there is a lot of waiting involved ?
  11. It's a hit-or-miss game buying parts from China...you may get lucky and it is of decent (still not excellent) quality...but most of the time you will find that the quality is crap. A quick search here will reveal many posts where you can see how bad they actually are. My 2 cent advise is to either buy the official parts as @ultiarjan suggested...or look on eBay et.al. for people selling of parts when they have upgraded their UM2 to UM2+ (that is how I got hold of two printheads in used, but very good condition).
  12. Building an UM2 Extended clone vs. an UMO+ clone is no difference. Personally I would ditch the UM boards and use a Duet3D, or some other modern board. But if you look around there is a clone-v2.1.5 version of the UM2 board with removable steppers available. But given that it is a clone I would not buy it...it's a hit-or-miss kind of chance not worth taking imo. That said, using a different board means no more UM firmware...so it will no longer be a 1-1 clone. If you want to keep the UMO board and change stepper you can also build an UMO Extended...just make the side panels higher...all you need to change in the software config is the height of the build area. If you want an amazing extruder I can recommend the Zero Gravity Extruder. I, and a few more, have been using it for a long time and it is awesome...regardless if you are printing stiff or flexible filaments. Rods can be bought from many places...Misumi if you want the best...Robotdigg (or similar places) if you want to save some money. If you look at the Ultimaker 2 Aluminium Extrusion clone at Thingiverse you will find hints on where you can source material used to build an Ultimaker clone.
  13. Ok, found it, installed it, had to figure out where it was supposed to be, until I discovered that I need to go looking for hidden settings...and there are lots of them...oh my...but at least I have, finally, easy access to that setting... Still curious as to why everyone, especially the developers, strongly says that changing nozzle size is not needed and that changing line width is the same thing...
  14. This is utterly confusing... Why, if nozzle size is irrelevant, did you put it as a configurable setting in the machine settings? And, if nozzle size is irrelevant, how would you tell Cura to over-/under-extrude using a specific nozzle size? (Say I want to print with line width 0.3 using a 0.4 nozzle vs. printing with one width 0.3 using a 0.3 nozzle?
  15. This is a post to let you know that @gudo, the man who created some truly awesome mods for our Ultimaker's, has sadly passed away ? I didn't know him that well, but I wrote a few words over in another forum. R.I.P. @gudo!
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