Torgeir

Forgot this one.. Torgeir

Hi @pander1405, Took a while this, Cura did not cope with this issue. So there where two options, Meshmixer (or alike), or just remove that gcode parts that made this inside floor. Don't work much with Meshmixer because modifies with this tools sometimes makes more work. But as you've spent much work in order to have this ring inserted, I'll think you better have your model as you've modify it.. As there was only parts of four layers that has to be removed, I did just that. I'm a big fan of NC Viewer (v1.13), that's really nice to use as it can work with many code types. Together with Notepad++ (v7.9), a standard Notepad in windows and of cause with Cura 4.7.1 you can do pretty much.. As Notepad++ and NC Viewer have same reference showing the gcode just the same, is a must.. When modifying in NC Viewer, you MUST store the changes immediately after change. If not, NC Viewer will fill inn the missing parts when you start analysis of the object. Here is how I did it: Last cmd (command) in your gcode file, just before starting printing one yellow ring with infill. This you can see in Cura when viewing (play) gcode file from layer 25. 1/26-30895, meaning start of gcode part that's making the top layer filled inside your object. 2/26-31179, meaning stop of the above gcode part -including this line.. The print head return to same point it moved from, to make the first infill top of the four individual that's contain the gcode parts to be removed from the actual layers. There is four layer to modified by removing this "inserted" infilled "bottom", as pr. Cura def. NOTE WELL: WHEN REMOVING CODE PARTS IN HERE, YOU MUST START AT THE LO END FIRST. IE. FROM LINE NUMBER 35289 TO 34998 (IN LAYER NUMBER 29), THEN 28 AND SO ON. This is because all numbers references below will change, but not the one above. This reference numbers is only valid for your gcode file; "CE3_Tree_per_model.gcode", before modification! After modification I named the file; "CE3_Tree_per_model_Mode_1.gcode" (Both files are included in the zip file). ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.7.1 and ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code -----------------------------Lines above here must not be changed--------------------------- 30894 G1 X114.7 Y159.349 E1746.09387 ; Layer on tree before first circle and infill. 1/26-30895 G1 F2700 E1741.09316 ; Start of first layer (1/26) with (1) circle and infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok 2/26-31179 G1 F300 Z5.4 ; Finished first layer part with a circle (1) and infill. 31181 G0 F9000 X114.172 Y158.814 Z5.4; Next continued layer after removal of first infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------ 32258 G1 X114.47 Y159.256 E1882.41152 ; Layer on tree before second circle and infill. 1/27-32259 G1 G1 F2700 E1877.41152 ; Start of second layer (1/27) with (1) circle and infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok 2/27-32552 G1 F300 Z5.6 ; Finished second layer part with a circle (1) and infill. 32554 G0 F9000 X113.942 Y158.721 Z5.6 ; Next continued layer after removal of second infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------ 33635 G1 X114.24 Y159.163 E2018.68156 ; Layer on tree before third circle and infill. 1/28-33636 G1 F2700 E2013.68156 ; Start of third layer (1/28) with (1) circle and infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok 2/28-33919 G1 F300 Z5.8 ; Finished third layer part with a circle (1) and infill. 33921 G0 F9000 X113.713 Y158.627 Z5.8 ; Next continued layer after removal of third infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------ 34997 G1 X114.01 Y159.069 E2154.837 ; Layer on tree before fourth circle and infill. 1/29-34998 G1 F2700 E2149.837 ; Start of fourth layer (1/29) with (1) circle and infill. -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok 2/29-35289 G1 F300 Z6 ; Finished fourth layer part with a circle (1) and infill. 35291 G0 F9000 X113.489 Y158.535 Z6 ; Next continued layer after removal of third infill. -----------------------------Lines under here must not be changed--------------------------------- When I converted your project file I got a big gcode file (had to be zipped). 🙂 CE3_Tree_per_model_z.zip Just check the slicing yourself and see if there is not anything wrong or missing. Hope this help Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

It appear that this support is made in the CAD program together with the model, right? Are you using PVA as support? As there is sign of some oozing of white filament here, this might have something with (assuming this is PVA) the support filament to do. Just so it is said, PVA is very sensitive to humidity, more than most of the filaments there is. It might break inside the bowden tube (due to high water contamination) when it's stretched out to follow inside path. The printer might print on while the support suffer and PVA will ooze during this time. The PVA feed will be ok, but the retraction do not work. As the printing go on, the rupture will disappear and PVA will have retraction again. However, there might be another break coming up soon. Since "those" problems arrived all of a sudden for you, I've wonder if this might happen due to season change? Colder shop temperature and higher humidity? I've seen on your prints that there is sign of PVA around, sure this is "kind" of normal, but maybe an issue to consider. As the infill just stop all of a sudden -after this nice printing (PVA), it's very difficult to trace the error just like that. Well, this is all I can come to think about for now. There might be some other opinion in here that might chime in. Good luck Torgeir.

Just select; "Color scheme", then select; "Line Color". Then we'll see what is making the bottom "light yellow circle part" of filaments. Then this might be possible to deselect in Cura. If you're using say "0.4 mm" nozzle, you may then set line width to 0.4, -then three layer make wall thickness of ~1.2 mm. Thanks Torgeir

Hi pander1405. Welcome in here. Here was little information for sure, -however, you tree seems to be "all solid" so you'll need to define the wall thickness. Maybe better to set number of wall layers single wall one, two, or what you want. You might need support, -or maybe this can be printed without using support. Good luck Thanks Torgeir.

Ok. I've just made a solid cylinder 50X50 mm, standard engineering - normal profile. Selected 0.3 mm height, single wall, no infill, no top/bottom layer and spiralize outer/contur. Printing now, time 14 minute. Here's the project file: UMS3_Test_Cylinder_50_X_50_mm_06_10_20.3mf This is the picture of sliced and printed model: The printer moved around all the way without stopping.. Looks very nice, no issue at all. The shadows is made by the curtains. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Frutolo, I'll agree, this doses not looks like a mechanical issue. Just in this two picture it is looking like the filament been cooling too much down and being drawn out of the rounded path going into the model and coming toward "us". It seems to work better when the printing path going around the corner, -filament is "stretched" toward the objects corner? I'll tend to think that a strait cylinder will look "much" better on the outside, than the inside, maybe such a test is handy here? Printing with such a thick (high) line (0.3 mm) need flow and heat. Here it's looking like there is too low heat, as filament seems as start to become more dense (cooled down).. Maybe the filament did not reach the right temperature when passing through the heat block and nozzle? Hmm., you said you swapped the two AA block. How many print hour is done? There is a high demand for flow at this way of printing, -so a "small" error may have hi impact of the outcome. However, you should be able to print object with more standard "height", say 0.15 mm., as it will be easier to compare objects of such a print out. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Frutolo, If this is the problem, you will see it in the Cura viewer. Normally I'll always use default, but sometimes when you see this "pop outs" on the wall I'll try to increase the max deviation. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Frutolo, What i noticed is, when travelling the nozzle leaves slight oozing on the print. Sometimes the printhead travels over the shell, leaving this oozed material on the shell --> then the shell can't be printed correctly anymore... Excuse me, -but this remind me about a beginning issue with the filament. It looks there is to much filament some places and print very nice other places. This occurs when the printer slow a little down.. This use to occur if/when the filament have "attracted" a little bit of moist and when printing at "some" high temperature this tend to increase the nozzle pressure just a little so there is some extra flow of filament. To test for this issue, speed up printing and reduce the print temperature. If this work, you'll need to get a filament dryer. I've had brand new filament with this kind of issue.. PS: 3DBechy must be printed without using heat bed, this due to overhang close to the heat bed.. Just my five pence. Thanks Torgeir

Ok., Loaded your Tronxy X5SA into Cura (4.7.1). As "draft" is kind of rough and fast print this will be close to like the low quality for your printer in Cura. Try to use your speed, layer setting etc. in here and the printing time should differ. Thanks Torgeir

Aha. I've see what you mean.. Do you share a project file? Well, you don't need any profile to select Draft mode, just select this quality (draft) in Cura then adjust for same speed etc. Thanks Torgeir

Hi buteomont, I've see that the print quality is set to "normal" for the left and "draft" for the right, in my experience with Cura draft always print faster than "normal" quality. Think there is a lot of underlying parameter differ in Cura between these various modes.(?) BTW very interesting topic. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Thevirus, Welcome in here. High temp printing, I'll kind of thinking that 3DSolex is more orientated toward abrasive material.. So what kind of material are you thinking about? The temp limit for an UMS5 is 280 deg, C,. if my memory serve me right. If, we cant cross that "border" safely with this limitation. A 3DSolex don't increase this limit.. However, if it is anything else just use Ultimakers recommendation for high temp printing. I'll consider (250-280) deg. C., as high temperature printing, if you go above this -we name it experimental. 🙂 Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Anafear, Welcome in here. To me, it's look like the printing temperature is to high, -also there is lots of sign of underextrution. The speed and the layer height demand are quite high for your printer to deliver enough flow it seems. I would reduce the printing temperature to (260-270) deg.C., reduce the speed to 40 mm/ sec for all speed settings. Reduce the layer height to 0.15mm and initial layer height to 0.2 mm. Also, just print one object at a time (saving filament) to see if the correction is good enough. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi sdavis0418, I'd use the USB method, download the firmware then store it to the USB and use it to upload the firmware via printer menu. Be aver that there is two firmware versions for the S5, read about it here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011545559 The latest version is: 5.8.1 Here's the info about this: Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi twetter, Welcome in here. This acceleration/speed is quite normal for this setting I'll think, if you reduce the "traveling speed" this vibration effect will be reduced. I'd reduce it to the double of the printing speed, say 90 mm/sec. Thanks Torgeir

Hi katchanielsen, Just an observation of your prints and printing with white ”PLA”. -- The color of the filament is very important for the outcome of our print. Due to the color, the heat radiation “into the object and from the object” is very much affected by by the objects color. In short, white (or lighter colored) object “reflect off” some off the income radiation. This reduced income radiation of white “colored” object, is also working the opposite way, I.E. when this object is cooled down. On the other side of the “scale” we have the black object (black boody), this theoretical object will not reflect any radiation going into it, but will radiate all energy as well from the object (when there is temperature difference). So, white filament need better (and more) cooling to make a nice print. Further, most thermoplastics collect humidity directly from the air, so we know that our filaments are collecting some water. As white filament hold the heat a little longer, “very small” bubbles of vapour might escape to the surface before the filament start to dense and stop those arriving surface. All filaments acts like this, but white color suffer faster of this issue if it’s contaminated by water. --- So, for white color, reduce the print temperature and make sure to use proper cooling. The example of 3DBency is a known issue, as the overhang start directly from the bed the overhang suffer for this extra heat radiation from the bed. Cooling from the fans will not be sufficient here, so only way to print a proper model of 3DBenchy is to print without using the heat bed and using glue for having the object to stick to the heat bed. If you study the way the printer moves around when printing 3DBenchy you’ll see that at some orientations of the objects will suffer from fan flow, due to high overhang vs. fans position. For the first problem, I downloaded your model (Cura 4.7.1) and used PVA support on head 2. Then selected “tree” support (from default “normal” to “tree”), selected some support angles, then to experimental and then selected “make overhang printable”. As the bottle holder lo part is wide and kind of solid, this part can be printed without support using this experimental setting. I did not adjust the temperature, but this is needed to be done. Try (205 or even 200) deg. C. The project file is still for S3 with same filament setting, but look trough it.. The benefit of this use of tree and support makes the removal of support very easy. Edit: Forgot to mention that the printing time is reduced by much less travel. I'm using skirt and print it with nozzle no1 (having the primary filament). Also, make sure you have at least a firmware for S3 like: 5.8.0 or higher. Here is the file:UMS3_1971334718_hjflaskeholderv1(2)_4_7_1.3mf I've just added 4_7_1 as it's easier to identify.. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi Smithy, Very interesting this one, -a German made filament with European food and Toy "Certification".. Since you discover poor layer addition, I'd try using no fan and draft shield (under experimental in Cura). 🙂 Good luck Thanks. Torgeir

Hi zolcost1, Just an observation, -looks like the X stepper is loose (the right one) it looks a little tilted up at the left side and the belt vibrate a lot on the right side when happening. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi mrGokhan, In all this writing, I forgot to mention the most Important issue with this new generation print head from Ultimaker. Well, the only old fashion wiring in here, -is the wiring for both heat element in each core left and right. This one can be measured all the way from the "print head" to the main PCB in the bottom of the printer. All the remaining thing inside the "print head" is controlled and monitored digitally! There is some exceptions, if the fan is actually running -is not detected, or if a led do not work in the print head etc. What does this mean, you may ask? The erratic reading of the "captive sensor" is communicated between the main board and the print head, so the fault you have is located inside the "print head". If the main board have a problem in communication with the "print head" there will be some sort of communication error between in here. As there is a number of those paired communication channels, there will be an error for each of them I'll assume. But all this stuff is kind of new to me, but I'll dig a little more to see the variants of comm error. -- Edit: Ok. Here is the errors I found in UM3 user manual. (PS. This might be revised in later versions from Ultimaker). This is an excerpt from the UM3 user manual. Here is those errors found related to active communication with the "print head". •There is a communication error with the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER18. • There is an I2C communication error. Go to ultimaker.com/ER19. •There was a sensor error within the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER21. This one is not directly related to the "print head". • Active leveling correction failed. Manual level the build plate or go to ultimaker.com/ER22. Hope this helps. Edit end --- Thanks Torgeir

Hi mrGokhan, What Erin said is important, this sensing of the "captive" sensor measuring the distance between the head nozzle and the bed are using capacitans in order to measure distance. This kind of sensor is very sensitive for noise and such fans can radiate much noise (if it fails). So it is a good advice to disconnect them and do another test! The first thing she asked was to check the red and withe wires connected to the captive sensor. Those two wires may break at sometimes, because they is bend every time the front door is opened. Ok. Inside the head there is a PCB that's have three converters, converting an analogue signal to digital format. This is why it is not possible to measure wire to wire from head to inside the main PCB. The wire you think have contact, possibly have not. Remember how all this thing started and the outcome. Here we go: Note well; it is very easy to damage anything inside the "print heads" PCB. Here's a picture of the two wires inside the front door of this type of head. I'll assume this is the same color as in the UM3 (this is mine S3). So check this is right! Second picture: Here I've added a little text for understanding. Third picture: Here just marked the (jack) J7 in the wiring. Fourth picture the print head PCB indicating the position of relevant connector. Lastly, I've never seen an UM3, so all this info is based on the wiring of the system I've found on Github. If you have a valid warranty and anything go wrong, it is on your own responsibility (just so it is said). Good luck Thanks. Torgeir

Hi Ricardo, Welcome in here. It depends a little, -the "newer" Cura versions show the color of the filament, however, if you go to setup under general -there is one of the first named "Theme". At default "Ultimaker" is set, press "Ultimaker" and see the variants. A restart of Cura is needed for changes to take place. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi fodskammel, You can find those washers at RS Components AS in Denmark. Here's three variants of Stainless Steel. Good luck. Hilsen Torgeir

Hi minercraftal, I'll agree with others saying your filament is contaminated with water. What we see here is that water affected filament entering the hot end, create vapor that's increase the pressure inside the hot end and then lead to over extruding that's erratic. Nylon is one of the most sensitive (close to PVA), for attracting water in high humidity environment. So, be there when nylon filament printing is done and store your valuable filament into sealed container with silica bag to keep it ready for next print. Also, a lo temp for nylon might be more like (235-240) deg. C. Normally nylon tend to string a little, so a little tuning here is often needed. Printing with nylon need some attention for cold draft into the lo end of the printer. Such draft can reduce the bounding between the layers of your model, very important. So cover up the lo part an the front. Also using a top hat that's have an exhaust valve to vent out fumes, however when printing with nylon the exhaust vent is closed and heat is vented on the open underside of the top hat.- Typical bed temp is about 75 deg. C. This temperature create a draft from lo through the upper part of the printer. In Cura there is a tools to protect your object from draft, -use it, it work very well for me. It's named "Draft Shield" and it's used to shield models, keep the heat and prevent models to warp. This one have been sometime in Cura, but still located under experimental (Cura 4.7.1). Here is it: When printing Nylon, the cooling fan for your model is off -all the time.. Edit: Using no cooling fan is mainly true for smaller objects, -some fan use is done when printing bigger object so here it is very important to follow the producers advice and your printers capabilities in this matter. (Heat insulation, doors etc.) By the way, I'm mostly printing around (250-255) deg. C for the brand I'm using. So last, select a good 1 class filament for your nylon printing -that's the important thing to do here.. Good luck with your nylon printing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi neburmine, Welcome in here. As I can see your model is just to big to fit the heat bed in your Ender 3. You just need to scale your model down a little and you'll be fine. Just added two pictures of how. First picture of a model that's too big. Next picture with the model scaled down (see text in the picture). Thanks Torgeir