Torgeir

Hi rotorhead, Way to go! Thanks for the update. Regards Torgeir

Hi Suffolksails, If they are just worn, you can use the "post it method", -no disassemble required.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Suffolksails, Did the sliding blocks have cracks? Torgeir

Hi Folks, No problem, -it's sure subjective.. 🙂 I've been measuring this temperature a long time ago and found this temperature to be between about (50-70) Deg.C. during "normal" use - printing all the ting from PLA to Nylon with my UM2E+ (-with geared X/Y steppers). This all will depend of your filament type, printer setting and length of operating time in order to print your object. Sometimes we need to close up our printer to make sure that the temperature stay hi and steady, in such situation the stepper motors become very hot and this can lead to lubrication problems in the stepper bearings (grease leak out from the bearings). But if you need to print "exotic" thermoplastic like peek etc., -an Ultimaker printer is an excellent individual to use solving such problems. This is true as you can install the X/Y steppers outside the printer and keep it away from this hi temp area inside! However, this is probably of more interest for special purpose project and experimenters. Hmm, about mechanical geared steppers there is some interesting issue. When you do this, the need for torque decrease but the need for speed increase. A stepper that is doubling it's speed loose torque as the magnetic field build up take time and this is a constant for iron cores used in here, so as a result the magnetic field strength become to be weaker and weaker as speed increase. So it cannot go as fast as other electric motors. Anyway, interesting. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Suffolksails, There is an emergency fix for this, but only works if there is no cracks in the the "black" sliding blocks.. I've been using "post it labels paper" cut to match the width of the block (13 mm or 1/2") actually like a rectangle.. A "shims" like this will increase the clamping and is a permanent solution for my UM2+ (been for 3 yrs). Here's a picture of how I did it. Don't use to much paper around the axe, -if, it will be hard to snap on and the block may crack! Try to adjust so it become like the ones that's ok. Hope this helps until you have got a new replacement. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi rmerlo, In general if you can hold your finger at two second, it's quite normal I'll say.. This also depend of the length and temp setting of your printer while printing your object. Back then, these stepper motors was very hot and you could easily burn your finger if you touched it. Thanks Torgeir

Hi rotorhead, Sure this is possible, but leave the original switch in place as it is meant to be used for PCB mounting. Also you don't need a switch that's need to cope with 9.4 Amps, you'll just need a switch that can do 2 Amps! This as the original switch on the PCB only direct power to the DC-DC converter (24 VDC-5 VDC), so this is the power used for the processing part of the board. The power consuming parts is delivered by the power relay mounted on the board, delivering power to heat bed, heat block and all stepper motors + logic in here. Find a switch that match (your style) and make sure to select one with good quality!--- You just need a single pole switch that's connected in parallel with the original power switch (that's to be in selected off position), then you only use your remote located as power switch. I've made a copy from the UM2 (where the power switch is involved) for you to see how it can be done. This picture shows where to connect the "remote" switch in the wiring. This picture show the location of power switch and used pins (1 and 2) looking into the pcb when still installed in the printer. So no need to do to much here, but need some skill to solder this correct. Hope this will do. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi netminder, The UMS3 use 8mm shaft for the print head, while UM2/2+ use 6mm shaft for the print head. So there might be some issues here.. As far as I know, the UM3 use 6mm shafts. Edited. Just for your info. Well, good luck with your modification. Thanks Torgeir

Hi, Do not know the tolerance Ultimaker use, however -it might be h6(?). If you use this producers shaft, you'll have the best there is: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302634310/ You may also order bearing/linear bearing from them, -expensive but high quality. Thanks Torgeir

Hi 3D_Rockstar, I can confirm you're on the right track, -it's about the tolerances of the rod's! Thanks Torgeir

Hi Daniel, When the stepper "motors" make a clicking sound, this tell us that the stepper stalls and cannot do it's next step! There is two reasons for this, too high friction in your gantry system, or too lo current setting for your stepper motor driver circuit! Thees stepper motors is one of the best "electric mechanic" device ever made, they just go on and go on... Thanks Torgeir

You are a true "fluid dynamics" mate. Very nice intake! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @cashlo, Way to go! Thank you for reply. Regards Torgeir

Hi Paul, Just forgot to mention that I'm using a permanent (black "color") white board pen as a marker for the glass plate. Also, the PVA glue we use is diluted in water to (1 to (12-18)) ish. parts, here glue is 1 parts and water is between 12 to 18 parts. Will looks like water is slightly contaminated with some stuff. 🙂 You can hardly see the additive when dried. Using glue with PLA like this can sometimes be Very hard to remove. So do some practice, without glue and you'll soon master it! You may try to print smaller objects in order to get more feeling of how this works. Anyway, Good luck and have fun Torgeir

Hi Paul, I've got the same printer as you have. When I'm using blue tape it is; when I'll print small object with overhang close to print bed. If I do use heat bed on, my small prints will have "melting" marks where the sides is overhanging the bed, this is the only time I'm using tape when printing PLA. There might be other brand of filament where you are advised to use tape or other glues/additives for the heat bed. But the best for your print here is just to have a very clean glass plate. Just wash it in hot water (so you just can "hand wash") and using a mild hand soap. When you fingers stick where ever you touch and not "slip", it is clean, now just clean with some more hot water then you're done. Just use a clean cotton rag for removing the water. For the height adjustment I'm using an ATM note, the thermal one. Those are kind of thin, but will work very well. Just make sure you just "can feel very light" contact between the nozzle and the glass plate at the tree adjustment point. If you think your adjustment does not go well, -just do another one until it feel it is right. When you got this thing tuned in for PLA, you never look back again. Also, the full brim you're using would not be be needed you'll only use skirt. We would also use to mark the glass plate, I.E. left front corner with: "Up". This can be handy as those glass plates might not be as good as needed on both sides. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi Paul, When using blue tape we do not use heat bed, cause the glue on the tape will not stick at high temperature. Just turn of the heat bed and it will be fine. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Well, since you do not have any contact with you main pcb using usb, I'll think the Atmel Mega 16U2 is the one to work out first. There is a special reset point on the pcb just to reset this microprocessor and this is jumper named JP2. There is a little problem here because there is not soldered in pins at this point, there is just two solder points. By shorting this two points, the microprocessor go into DFU mode (direct firmware upload). By fixing this, you should be able to reload (DFU) the firmware to "Mega 2560" for your printer. But ofc. that is true if all the hardware still works. This reset might be a risky thing to do if you do not have any experience with this. Here's a little picture of the pcb with fuse T1 and JP2 marked with yellow. Well, that's a little more about this issue. Good luck Torgeir.

Hi there, Just had a look into the wiring of the PCB (old type UM2). Between the USB port and the U2) Atmel Mega 16U2 (USB controller) there is a small fuse T1, if this fuse fail (go open) you would not be able to connect. However, this fuse (T050) is a "self resetting" fuse that should reset itself after opening. Might be checked.. The 5 V DC from the USB is not connected for power up the processors according to this wiring. As the UM2 use Atmel Mega 16U2 and Mega 2560 you might find this site useful: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/DFUProgramming8U2 Not very much, but may help. Thanks Torgeir

Wow, that's the biggest thing I've ever seen made by a 3D printer, amasing! Great! Torgeir.

I'm using the tread function i Fusion 360. So if you're able to "tune in" the model, those tread just need a little cleaning by using a tap. Here, only using my fingers to rotate the tap. And yes, PLA and 3 mm, -but do not use to much torque here. BTW. interesting topics. Torgeir

Hi cashlo, As your scope reference is floating at +24 V DC and your scope read an "AC" signal you will only see the pulse peak signal input to the base of T1 that's receive PWM pulses at max 5 V peak from the microprocessor. This is indicating that the transistor T1 BC817 is not working, when it is working there should be a 24 V peak PWM signal here. BC817 is a very small transistor.. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi redwards64, Welcome in here and congratulation with your brand new UM2E+! I've an UM2E that's upgraded later to a plus version, however, I do not have the files that's comes with a new printer. I'm just a member like you in here, -for you to know. There might be someone in here that can share those files. But I'm sure @SandervG can help you with this issue. Thanks Torgeir

Hi TrentexTech, This is a serious under extrusion for sure and I'll agree with Carla_Birch. I'd just wonder if this is an UM S5, this because of the grinding marks of the filament.. When looking close to your print, I'll think that the BB core also show sign of under extrusion but not sure here.. Come to think about the cooling fan used for both cores, could a failure here cause this problem? If this fan fail somehow, this might be what happen. Just my thoughts Thanks Torgeir

Hi hobe12, Sometimes a picture says a thousand more than a word.. 🙂 This picture of your print really does. When the printer finished the "big" rectangular block, the remaining the round part improved drastically, the hex one not so much but better, -but better! I'll say this is a heat transfer problem. The heath transfer between the heater/the block might not work very well, or the transfer between nozzle/ block is suffer. IE. heater hole to wide.. Or bad thermal transition between nozzle and block. Or a heater that cannot deliver enough heat... @gr5 said temperature problem, sure this match. Well, I am using copper paste when installing heater and sensor. The temperature at my nozzle (see in advanced menu) never change more than 1 deg. C up or down! I am even using a little copper paste on the coil of the nozzle to keep good thermal contact. But do not overdo this! Thanks Good luck Torgeir

Hi hobe12, When I looked at your picture, I'd also think about a Z shaft problem. However, in the upper part of your print there's some other issues lead me to think that this "might" be a filament issue, a filament that has absorbed some water. Filament might have sectors that's worse at places, where vapor force molten filament out of nozzle and the outcome of this may differ a little due to temperature used. If printed some hot it makes like a hole, at a little lo temperature just making blobs along a layer etc. To me, it looks very much like the filament is contaminated with water. Also, often the filament become some brittle if this occur, brake very easy at a certain angle. Just my thoughts. Thanks Torgeir