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Torgeir

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Everything posted by Torgeir

  1. This look very strange, seems to happened just after first or second layer(?). I've put a little more brightness and zoomed in some here: Put in some lines to mark some issues. The line at the bottom shows "much under extrusion", the tree lines above; -is this something to be there "in this object"? I'll think you need to tell us a little more how this happened(?). Did it occur after some change to the printer, -or in the Cura slicer, -or profiles? Do you use the same core for more than one type of filaments (PLA , TPU95A etc.)? Did this happen with other kind of print object (known good from before)? Edit: Just come to think about if this could be an issue because of some high nozzle pressure during first layers (with soft filament), this condition might lead to grinding some and low flow when pressure decrease. Actually, this might be easy to see if you study this printing in the beginning by monitoring the feed.. Hmm.. Just a shot.. Thanks Torgeir
  2. I would use multi tread silicone insulated wire, more expensive -but will never break! (If it's done right.) However, check that it is this "wire intermittent issue", if not, -this can be EMC noise from the internal inverter inside the fan. If this is internal noise from the fan, it will need to be changed. Using shrink tube only makes the wire stiffer and make it break soon again. Thanks Torgeir
  3. Hi Ronald, Welcome in here, Here you will find lots of stuff about 3D printing, -this is the right place to be. Good luck with your new hobby. Thanks Torgeir
  4. Hmm, Here is two pictures, showing how to do, -using an UM2 head top, same size as UM S3.. Thanks Torgeir
  5. Hi Charles, As the bowden tube is removed you can just lift up the withe locking ring, now you'll have enough space to use a "long" a tanned tip rod to grab that filament. Heat the nozzle to 200 deg. C., then pull it out, but be careful and not clamp the filament to hard. Never over temp the filament, as this might harden filament very much and destroy your print core. Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir
  6. Hi Adam, This was much better, but now we sure need some data of how this is printed -cause here is some issues. The first layer height and something more, maybe the project file, if possible? Thanks Torgeir
  7. This seems to work very well, great info. Thanks Torgeir
  8. Sure, I've misunderstood this question. However, I've also had lots of warping when printing with nylon, -but with the above mention method there was no warping. -Sorry. Torgeir
  9. Hi John, Sure, not very much, -but did a lot of challenging nylon prints.. First thing is to use "draft Shield", under experimental in Cura. This will build a single wall "heat fence" around your print, this in order to prevent "fast" cool down and warping of your print. Then, use diluted (in water) PVA glue on the heat bed- and let it dry until not looking wet, redo this 3 or 4 times (total). This will not get your model stuck that hard to the bed.. Let the model and bed be into lunched water for some time, then try carefully to remove the model using a sharp paint scrape, if it wont go let is rest -try again later and so on until it go.. This method is ideal for small parts.. Here is a little picture of a very known model -with draft shield -by Cura 4.8.0 Thanks Regard Torgeir
  10. Hi @gentlemancarrot, Welcome in here. According to you video, this sounds like a belt climbing a pulley and looks like the X axis (left right). You could move the head in X, Y or diagonally directions without power (or after a finished print) and observe the belts movement or find the source of this noise. This may occur due to an offset pulley that's forcing a belt hard to one side if the pulley and making this noise. Often we see black particle collected up in the bottom corner indicating where to look above.. Another way is to use a program Pronterface found here: https://www.pronterface.com/ Use this program when connected to the printer in order to move the head in just one axis by the time, as a detection tools. You might just try another com port, say com 6 or around this number and it should connect. Hope this help. Thanks Torgeir
  11. Hmm. Interesting, this "could" be hardware or software tuning.. Why not share your project file in here. Thanks Torgeir
  12. Great to hear that your printer is working again. Thanks Torgeir
  13. Use Cura 15.04.5 like this. Just connect your printer and install default firmware. Thanks Torgeir
  14. Hi Simon, You may have a problem with the USB to Serial conversion, to fix this it is better to use Arduino. Here is some picture s of how to do it: When setting up Arduino select card type first. Select tools, then card type. Next, tools again and then Port. Here it's show only Com 1. Now you connect your printer and you should get this -but maybe another com port number. The above see your printer, but it is not connected. But when you select the printer it will connect, shown like this. This example is with my UM2 ext. You should be able to use this one.. When you see it connect, then exit Arduino and try Pronterface. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir
  15. Hi Simon, As an UM2 is based on Arduino, just install it and you will have the correct driver for UM2. You'll find it here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software (Read about setting baud rate and more with the Arduino software.) The default baud rate is 115200 baud. Thanks Torgeir
  16. I'll think it is worth trying update to 5.8.1 from USB as updating using LAN have failed for people. Uploading using firmware from USB is better as the printer have full control of the USB, -but not from the LAN. Thanks Torgeir
  17. Hmm, I'll use to think that if small issues added together, they may lead to an error, but here it is still a massive under extrusion.. Just come to think about an issue on the German treads in here, this was a drawing of a house, an overview of a floor. This had sign of severe under extrusion at several places, much check was made to the printer. However, all ended up in adjusting some critical parameter in the slicer -Cura.. So be aware of these types of issues and be sure to use standard profiles or try printing an old tested test model that has been stored back then. -But when we look at your first picture in this tread, -that the skirt or brim line is broken up and this is -"signaling" a flow/feeding problem at the extruder -unless Cura can be adjusted to do so (but I do not think so). So the question @Smithy asking is essential for further analysis. Thanks Torgeir
  18. Hi Adam_UL, You need to clean out the "old" plastic partickle's out of the bowden tube, -this as they increase the friction in the tube and increase the "drag forces" when pressure is needed to feed the filament. This pressure is kind of high when printing first layers and your feeder cannot feed properly due to this. It's very important to clean the feeder to prevent those partickle entering the bowden tube. A clean bowden tube will have much longer service life. You can use water(then dry) or air, some even use mechanical stuff as a "little" piece of rag, -but not too much as it's to easy to get it stuck in here.. (Push it through by using filament.) Good luck Thanks Torgeir
  19. Sorry to hear this, just come to think about how did you update, using USB or lan? I've learned in here USB is better/safer for update.. But if you tried all this, maybe better to prepare a logfile from the printer. This file have lots of information. Good luck. Torgeir
  20. Hi @ipsid13, You have an UM S5, right. I'll think this error is related to previous version of firmware, the later version 5.8.1 have fixed this error. Edit: Read here more about this error. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011599420-ER998-An-unspecified-error-has-occurred Thanks Torgeir
  21. Hi there, RS Components is a worldwide company, exists all the places I've been.. And better, -they are an Ultimaker dealer.. I've been using them for many years and they have almost everything in electronics. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir
  22. Ja, das alte Rändelrad der Feeder ist direkt mit der Schrittwelle verbunden. Während des Langzeitdrucks wird es varm und schleift das Filament leicht. Dies ist noch schlimmer, wenn eine 0,6-mm-Düse verwendet wird.
  23. Ok., Also verwenden Sie immer noch den Original-Feeder. Wie Ulrich sagte, schrumpft der Koppler (hat einen Durchgang mit weniger Durchmesser). Dies verursacht Probleme für den Feeder und führt meistens zu einer Unterextrusion. Viel Glück.
  24. Wenn Sie die Objektdatei speichern, ist es besser zu analysieren, da sie alle Ihre Einstellungen enthält.
  25. Hallo Beks, Auf Ihren Bildern sehe ich einige Probleme, erstens ein Zeichen von zu wenig Extrusion, zweitens hat Ihr Drucker ein mechanisches Problem auf einer der Achsen (diesen vertikalen Linien) und schließlich auf der Oberfläche der Wand im Allgemeinen. Ich weiß, dass weiße Objekte nicht einfach zu fotografieren sind. Hier gibt es also ein paar Fragen zu stellen: Ist dies ein Standard-UM2 ohne Upgrade oder Änderungen? Ok., Da dies ein großer Druck ist, sehen Probleme von hier zu einem kleineren Druckobjekt möglicherweise nicht gleich aus. Wenn Sie das Modell beim Drucken betrachten, welcher Teil des Objekts zeigt auf Sie? Vielen Dank Torgeir
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