Torgeir

I've to agree much with gr5 that's probably a faulty driver circuit.. There's 4 DMOS (power MOSFET) for each of the four wires going to the steppers, if just one of them fail, this kind of behavior is typical. If it was the other side failing like this, the extruder head would hit the wall directly. As you have another "spare" driver E2 (you have an old UM2 right?), it is possible to redefine the firmware to use the extra stepper driver serving the X stepper motor. You could always try to increase the current to 1400 mA, just to confirm this is not a friction problem. Running the printer with this high setting for long time can destroy the drivers, as there is no additional cooling to prevent overheating those integrated circuit. In a previous version of S3D I've had, the gcode files from this slicer always increased E1 to 1400 mA! Good luck. Torgeir

Hi Folks, How about this tread? Thanks Torgeir

To bad, the gcode monitor in S3D is the best there is IMHO. When it come to details, there is nothing as I'm aware of, that shows details as good as S3D. Also the process of replaying the "head track", as lines build up give you much information. Hmm. Lots of people name this part as "simulator", but it is just a replay function. Here is an example of a detail from a Fan Duct Holder print. The print is sliced very well, but have some artifact that is not a failure of the printer.. Here is a picture of the actual printed (detail) part: Here you can see the problems, yes small but... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is the detail picture of this sliced model shown with gcode viewer in Cura 4.6.1: No fail is shown here, so you may think this is your printer? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is the detail picture of this sliced model shown with gcode viewer in S3D: Here you can see the problem, so my printer is ok.. This is just an example of how important it is to use good known tools to avoid long waiting and many tries before a success. Well, some said good tools is half of the job.. Just my thoughts. Thanks Torgeir

Great Raymond! The changes in this PCB might only be the interface toward the stepper drivers, so this should be very easy to modify in software I'll think. This is a question for @tinkergnome. I've copied your picture for the ease of seeing details in here.. Regards Torgeir

Hi davidbitton, I'd never said so, but if you need to avoid traveling marks in "some" model you make, this old slicer may be the one to use for such a model. I do really also use Cura 4.6.1 ! Actually a number of versions of Cura, including S3D. Regards Torgeir.

Hi Raymond, Sorry to hear this info. That not a good start, -however, I would just buy one of that small PCB with a A4988 installed. Just swap and off you go.. Will this fan be possible to put outside the shielded box, in order to blow inside with suction from outside? My shielded box (to go over the PCB) had two holes for fans to be installed into. I'm using two 24VDC (in serial -less noise) fans mounted with white foam (to avoid humming noise from the chassis). This white plastic foam is taped with aluminium tape for sealing/attatchment and hold very well. Don't let this stop you, you are to close now.. Good luck. Regards Torgeir

Hi John, Yes the newer Cura is very good for some of the problematic issues, as "adaptive layers" for the overhang (among many thing), -there is just nothing compare to this printing without support up to 90 degrees!... However, for the issues you've address here, there is a "secret" (IMO) version of CUra that's outstanding and this one is hiding the travel lines inside the wall very well. An Old version -right, this is Cura 2.3.1.,! A high number of my very best prints is sliced with this version and I'm still using it very much. Note: Cura 2.3.1 do not have its own gcode viewer. But else a winner.... But make sure, if you'll try this version,; that's combing mode is off and that Z hop when retraction is not enabled. Very important! If you like I can show the difference between the versions is alike. Good luck Regards Torgeir

Hi Leporello, I'm sure my explanation is wrong, the initial layer is just one layer. I've missed this one as when they say initial layers, they mean all kind of first layers as brim, skirt, support and printed object.. Sorry by this was my bummer.. I've tried this, with increased value and then my squeezed first layer just would not stick! 😞 So this speed is for first layer only. So using the plugin, as Greg suggested is the key here, -or the hard way of hand "assemble" a gcode addition he also suggested, will work I'm sure. Thanks Good Luck Torgeir.

Hi, Did you ever check the coil current setting for X and Y axis. If the current is set to lo, it might loose step esp. in the beginning of print as there is some added friction during this part of printing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi clinton, This is a right triangle that's rotated 360 deg around the coiled rods "center axe" forming a cone. It can cut material outside or inside. (Find some tutorials about this issue in the help section.) Thanks

Hi clinton, Try to use a cone cut, instead of chamfer. Have never tried your way.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi DiogoLopes, Just want to warn you that the gcode viewer sometimes (-quite often) make your model with error that do not exist. My experience is that the Cura slicers become better and better in later versions, but this is not true for the gcode viewer. Try to use the viewer in Cura 2.7.0, much better IMO. This one is "quite" a lot like the one in S3D. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, Can't you just adjust the initial speed, as this is for the first number of layers set by initial height ("initial layer height" divided by "layer height" give the number of layers at this speed)? Corrected Initial layer is ONLY the first layer printed. Just a thought, that's was wrong.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, Here's a little more about the feeder and the release handle with "hold open" lock. Some pictures: The feeder is here mounted with spacers (as wall thickness of UM2) into a stepper motor. This picture shown with the hand lever set to open locked position. This picture shown with the hand lever set to normal (unlocked) position. Here it is in open locked position where you can insert the filament by hand. Here the hand lever is released and filament can be driven by the stepper motor. Here is the gcode file made with Cura 2.5 end of February 2017 (the latest revision): Print temp 200 deg. C. Bed temp 60 deg. C. Nozzle 0.4mm PLA. Can be printed with all UM2 versions, (but if you have a plus version you do not need this one). Gear_Release.gcode I've also put up a test block, for making 16mm, 8mm and 3mm hole. In addition there is also a threaded hole for 1/4" quick connect adapter to be used for the bowden tube. This one is sliced with Cura 2.5 and same settings as above. UM2E_Dimension_Test_Block.gcode Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Assuming this is a "modern" lo light CCD sensor, those are very sensitive for high light level and may fail if exposed for to long time in hi level light radiation. Just so it is said, but I do not have a S5, -so if this light radiation into the camera should be normal(?), I do not know. But I do not think so. Anyway Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi SP3, Hmm., strange thing, but cannot really think that this hi intensity led (still in view) is good for this camera. As this normally reduce the aperture and contrast that will be lo -with a kind of foggy picture as we see here. Turn off or, cover up this light and use another warm light above the printer (behind camera). Lets see then what's happen? Thanks Torgeir.

Hi bearsfeat, I'll think during the first layers there is not much travel and retractions, so it's possible to see some good printing at such steady condition. However, when things change, as deceleration layer change and traveling etc. When this occurs, -all this hi flow is hard to reduce as the filament parameters is much changed, -as hi temperature reduce the density of the melted filament and this require a number of parameters to be corrected.. Here we will go into the "experimental" mode with our printing and all predictability we want is pretty much reduced. I would think that above 10 mm^3/s is on the high end of the scale, but the limit for UM3 printing your object is something to test for to see. So start with your print, at default speed and temp for 0.8 nozzle. If your object seems to print ok after 5 minute, increase speed until temp drop 1 deg.C then increase temp 2 deg. C. Let it stabilize. If stabilized, increase speed again until drop 1 deg.C. Don't go to fast, make sure that your printer deliver good quality. It is always wise/better to be a notch below max printing speed to make sure that you're working inside the envelop that the printer can deliver good printing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi bearsfeat, Well, 0.8mm nozzle default speed is 25mm/s (50mm/s is for 0.4mm nozzle!) So when starting with this nozzle, make a test print take max (10-15) minutes, during this time you can find the proper speed to use with your printer. So; 25mm/s and 205 deg C would be approx default for a 0.8mm nozzle. Should print ok., with this setting. To test, increase speed "a little by little" and monitor temperature, if temperature drop 1 deg C, increase the temperature 2 degrees. Stable, If not, increase speed gradually more, adjust temperature(as above) and so on, do this as long as print looks ok. You will find the sweet spot at some speed and temperature. The main problem here is ozing and blob due to high temperature, so avoid using to high temperature. Tension is only a problem if printer start grinding the filament. Just take care of this issues and I'm sure you would be ok. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi SP3, Is not this a direct reflex of the inside light diodes from the stainless steel glass clip? I'll do not think that this camera can handle such a direct light radiation.. You can try to put some withe board "black" to mask out the reflection or, just adjust the clip a bit? Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Here is some more details about my feeder gear box and arrangement. The pictures is from Fusion 360. Here you can see the attachment for the electrical cable and a carbon rod (1mm) support. This support avoid cable to be bent uneven and create cable rupture during long time printing. It also support prevent conflict between the bowden tube and the electrical cable. This arrangement is also made on the other side. The upper part of this box hold the 32 tooth pulley and the original feeder unit with release handle. In this The lo part in here, is where the feeder stepper motor is installed with a 16 tooth pulley. This upper cover also hold the second bearing (5x10x4)mm, for the 5mm drive shaft that's attached to the knurled (original) feeder wheel driving the filament. Here's the last picture for today, self explaining. - Next will be the release handle and test template, etc. Thanks Torgeir

Hi nitrotech, This is just a flat nut that I collected from an old mic jack.. So i filed it down to fit inside the feeder (~11.4mm). Here's a link to the thread specs: https://www.qualitymill.com/2965619/Product/Dormer-0099285 And here to a link to a "similar" pneumatic strait tube adapter: https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1216221/?tpr=2 Before I found this flat nut. I've tried to print a nut in PLA, but this did not take the pressure.. Well I'll thought that nylon will do the trick, but could not print nylon at this time. Here is a picture of a template and parts made for thread adjustment of this modification. This variant can be used as it is with the spacers, however it's made for a belt gearbox. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Paul, That's great, congratulation with your first print! Now the fun begin... Way to go! Regards Torgeir

Hi Paul, Yes, I'll think @gr5 have a kit that is based on a 1:2 gear designed by @meduza. This is a good design IMO, but I do not think you can turn the feeder unit at this one, unless it is modified for for this. If this happen you can use it on both sides and with the original feeder unit turned (reversed). Maybe it can be modified to use the release handle I'm using? I'll think this might be a good combination. I'm sure gr5 can give an advice here. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Bob, Here is a forum for "Anet A8 & Prusa i3" printers. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Paul, When I'm looking at your first picture, It looks like the temperature is a little lo. However, if this is PLA, it should normally flow easily and roll upon the clip nicely. As you have had some feed of plastic (PLA) and now there is none, I'll believe this due to some sort of obstruction in the extruder. So no temp problem, people have been trying to rice temperature in order to get flow, but instead burnt all filament stuck inside the heat block. You may also check if the "hot end" cooling fan (the aft one) is working, if not the filament will melt "high" up in the extruder and glue it stuck -just another posibillity. When we finish a print, we need to remove the filament and store it in a sealed bag in order to avoid humidity contamination. Good Luck Just ask in here, here is plenty of skilled people here to help you! Thanks Torgeir