Torgeir

Normally it is enough to loosen the four screws that hold the whole unit with fans and the whole thing. You can then adjust using the screws or possibly bend the fastening arms to center the nozzle. That was all I needed to do. Thanks Torgeir

That's great.. Just do not throw anything away, it might still be the encoder unit that's the only faulty issue. If you swap the EXP1/EXP2 connector nothing will be damaged, cause power input pins from main PCB are at same pin on both connectors. (People have reported in here that cross selected "EXT" connectors did not cause any damage.) Torgeir

Hi @marine3D, not sure what you want to do with this, but there is a few options: 1) Try to repair this electronics. 2) Buy a complete new board set with "almost" everything needed here included.. Lets look at the first option, you need to change the encoder that you can get from RS components here; https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/mechanical-rotary-encoders/7295555/ RS components can be found all around the world, find them in your own place. https://www.rs-components.com/index.html Sure, for this option -you'll need to use a soldering iron, -so some skill is needed here. By the way, RS components is quite fast to deliver. The issue with the two connector cable that @tinkergnome addressed might be a problem. I've seen this thing before, people are concerned that the connector might fall out (?) so they'll glue the two shelf. So when this contact need to come off, this is what happen. If you made a new firmware upload to the main PCB, this might be the reason it appear to be "unresponsive". After this the firmware go into a sort of setup mode and if something is missing you cannot go further until this is fixed. This mean all electrical connections for the printer to the board must be in place. Option 2. This UM2 PCB with 5 stepper driver installed seems to exist all around.. As this one is found here: https://www.reprap.me/um2-ultimaker-v2-integrated-circuit-mainboard-with-oled-screen-kit-for-3d-printer.html Well, this is all what I can do for now. Good luck Torgeir

Well, if it works with or without a "healthy/good" controller, -who do I know? All this depend of the creators of the "firmware" that's made for this system. There might (and should) be a high priority "interrupt" for the Control Unit of the system, -or there might be a time based "interrupt" that go on to next step -if the controller do not respond.. But this I do not know anything about! This system might hang up in an endless loop waiting for the controller to respond, -due to this problem... -Or? But for sure, make all your hardware connected, -then try and see! A broken part -should be fixed, just like that. I've been working with this stuff for a very long time -and still do! I've just gave you an advice what to start with, in order to find the problem -in an easy way. OFC if this do work, I'll said; buy a new encoder.. -Or if it works, you can just strengthen the "temporary" glue by adding some epoxy at "some" points and this will never happen anymore. I'll suppose you know very well where the EXP1 and EXP2 cables are to be connected. So, get this fixed and go to next step. Thanks Torgeir Torgeir

Hi @marine3D, I'll think this might be easy to fix, it is just the encoder w/axe that's separated from the housing soldered to the Control PCB. As one of the plastic tap is broken and stay with the front part, its easy to fix. You might use "cyanoacrylate" glue or sometimes named super glue. Just be careful and don't add to much glue, just a little, where the tap are located in the metal. Make sure there is no dirt in there, sometimes they use some special grease here, but often clean.. You can do this as a temporary repair cause it "might" fail later on.. Make sure this encoder is properly seated in all four corners and keep it there until glue is set. The rest of the boards look normal as far as I could see. There is an assembly manual for all the components in the "UM2" found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf Only one other caution, be carefully when installing the display.. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @marine3D, Sorry to hear about your damaged printer. Can you show a picture of the controller board and the damaged control knob with details where it is soldered to the board. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tarikkah, Welcome in here. This is a good observation.. I'll think this have something with really small "mesh" surface that's to small in order to make proper digit, like in this print. So Cura made it this way, in order to be readable, I'll think.. If you choose surface mode you'll see the original "mesh" digit.. Just a thought.. Anyway, there sure might be another explanation? Thanks Torgeir

I'll think you'll need to make the whole model "joined all together" before you export from "Fusion 360" to Cura. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Stan, Good progress. I made quite a few test with your "test" model and found that, by just adjusting the "Z Seam Alignment" to: "User Specified" and "Z Position" to "Back" you may have fare less blob on the surfaces of the model. There is just a little you have to remove around the edges, but look much better IMO., in the preview mode using the "gcode" file that is ready to be printed. This is the only adjustment I made to your file. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi Eric, Great that you've got your printer back in service. Sure I missed this one.. I'll think this has happened before as well. Actually you can see this here in your picture: Yes, -this was a learning for me, but hope you kept the unit that was changed, cause this parts is possible to print. As this is an UM3, all the stl files for such parts is open source.. I've just put up the picture for others to see. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Savak001, you should use this power supply, as I do on my UM2+ext. This deliver 295 W and work well. https://www.pchub.com/dell-common-item-dell-ac-adapter-20v-above-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-p160274 This is Dell N112H 24VDC 12.3 Amp version and have the right type of connector for an UM2 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Stan, That's great news, way to go! Thanks for the feedback. Torgeir

Hi @AZ-RAD, Welcome in here and congratulation with this new printer.. Yes, default print temperature is 225 deg. C., however we use to start with a little higher temp then decrease some during progress and at the last part of the print. This is one of the later features of Cura AFAIK. You can set the temp in Cura (4.8.0) under material as shown here: Good Luck. Thanks Torgeir

Yes, this is about right I'll think. I also took a measure and here's the pictures: Here is the distance along the X-axe (from left to right). Here is a temporary point made on the left inner pulley on the L/H X-axis. This appear to be close to 40 mm.. So this mean @geert_2 was absolutely right.. Torgeir

Hi @A2k, I'll think geert_2 is right, you have at least two "rotating" shaft that is slightly bent. If you measure the distance between the mid of "filament" bumps, this distance will match "one rev" distance the head will move on the bed. So one rotation of the "12mm" shaft will be equal to the distance between the bumps.. Did you get this problem all of a sudden?

Is not this happen only when you're printing TPU95A? A problem with Z axe will be visible with "any" type of filament.. Torgeir

Hi @A2k, This looks like the glass plate have small bumps, -hi where there is no filament seen. Maybe the plate is installed reverse side up? There's normally a heat warning on the up side.. Thanks Torgeir

Sorry to hear this. This is strange, -so do you print other filaments using the same print core? A clean print core is important for printing with this "soft" filament.. Also for all the "exotic" special filaments I have found that, it is advantageous to use a nozzle or print core only for that type of filament. Soft filaments and high temp filament's require some "special attention" - for the nozzle/print core you're using -and is often in the "experimental" class of 3D printing. So, if you're printing different material it's important to make sure that the nozzle/print core is clean. The most important thing when printing "filaments" known to be humidity sensitive is to STORE the filaments properly. Most of the high sensitive filaments will be contaminated on the outermost part of the beginning of the roll, so unwinding this part "say one meter" and cut it off. The cleaning procedure is here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652559-Print-core-cleaning-maintenance-schedule IMO., the above is the most common problem we'll see in our FDM 3D printing. Hope this help you somehow. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, First thing to check.. If the "Color Scheme" for lines helpers etc. is deselected there will be no view in preview mode. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dprntz, If it shut down like this, the problem is in your power supply, -or in the wiring toward the printer - but most probably in the power supply unit itself. Sorry but this below is only for UM2, Not UMO with 1.5.7 board... To much UM2+ thinking..🤔 ----- If it do not shut down, but the K1 relay is faulty; -your heat bed, extruder heater and all of your stepper motors will neither work. There is no warning that is reporting that the K1 relay is faulty! However, as soon your try to increase the bed temperature there will be an error displayed as; "Error Stopped" - "Heater Error" etc., depending of what you're trying to do.. After this error you cannot do anything, but recycling the power switch will get you back to previous stage. All things look normal until you try to print or making some test function related to the above functions. ----- UMO. You are talking about making the MOS FET transistor for the heat bed to driving the relay directly? This do not change anything and your power reset will still occur.. You need a power supply that can handle this load.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @UltiDad, Welcome in here. You are missing a total of tree screws, two on the 12 mm sliding blocks for the bed "rods" and the left screw holding the aft cover installed upon the bed (the one with the Ultimaker 2+ name). You'll find the screws P/N in the manual for this printer. Here is the link to the installation manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1210403/Ultimaker-Um2.html Thanks Torgeir

Hi Eric, Thank you for sharing your story with us. As usual, your amazing print work are full of details.. Way to go! Great to see you’re back. Cheers Torgeir

Hmm, There is some issues with Cura when viewing the file in "slicing mode", I just come to think about this issue. just forgot this one, -open Cura 4.8, then load the actual gcode file saved for printing by Burts Master version, you will now see no seam anymore.. Just did a test of this, so now you know. I'll guess it will work that way in the master as well.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Well, I was just trying to send some questions about this, cause the fact is you'll see the seam in Cura preview .but the seam is gone when you actually print it. You may look at the gcode file (using notepad / notepad+), in here you will only se one G0 code in the beginning of the file. During the whole spiralize printing there is no G0 commands.. I've used S3D to confirm this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi ultimatecreator, Just been looking at the files you've added here, so I'll know this firmware build is based on Marlin. In the firmware folder there is 5 different *.bin files (only counting the (en) versions). Further, the main board, the extruder and LCD screen are the same for all versions. However, the leveling sensor, the stepper driving types board (here they name it motor) and if there is one or two Z stop switches. So you must know the leveling type used; PL-08N or 3D Touch? Next is the motor driver type board used; A4988 or TMC220X series? (X is here digit 8 or 9). Last if there is a double Z -switches installed? (The two last variants in the readme file appear to be the same.. So if you identify those items it should be easy to find the right firmware file, yes you rename this to "firmware.bin". I've also see they added the whole marlin "setup" with the parameters for your printer, but this should not be needed here and are maybe added for modification issues. I'll assume when you made it working first time, all the stepper motors direction etc. seemed right? You just missing the tree extra feeders? Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir