Torgeir

Hi there, Congratulation with a brand new -self made printer that is working.. 🙂 Well done. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, As this one may be hard to find, -you find it under general in the configuration menu and you have to select "Theme:" then select Ultimaker. Then you will see the different settings. This one need a restart of Cura. Thanks Torgeir

Hi oskars, Right, this sounds like one of the belts is climbing on the side of a pulley. Normally this will create particles in the bottom of the printer (one of the four corners) and this will collect up here as small black ones.. The two short belts might be addressed, if one the pulleys is coming loose this might happen. Thanks Torgeir.

Hei der. Do you also have this whine after printing? Most printers release the power to the steppers after a completed print. Hmm, but not sure if the S5 do this.. Anyway, it's a good thing to contact the reseller. Good luck. Torgeir.

Thanks for the feedback, glad it's worked for you. Regards Torgeir

Often such a high frequency "whine" occur in the power supply, try to tilt the printer a little to one side, in order to hear if this whining is created under the printer (where the PS (power supply) is located. Those PS operate at high frequency and can sometimes make such noise if the coils potting is in suficient. Thanks Torgeir

Hi, sorry for late reply.. You'll need to change two settings to remove this extra travel issue. First, turn off combing mode. Then set Z seam to "user specified" and select "back". That's all needed. Here's a picture of settings and result. For testing just the "affected" top parts, you can do this; You can drag the object down and just printing the upper part (just skip support for such test). Set a brim or skirt for just that part of the object. All in all very easy to do. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Ok. Great and you are using Cura 4.7.0 right? Torgeir.

What printer do you have? Can you share your gcode file here? Thanks Torgeir

Hi Hops, The small dots, its really from the travels Cura sometimes makes due to some issues.. I've been experimenting so much with domes and curves over the times in order to trying avoid this to happen, so here is some tip. I've found that Cura need a model with a high number of triangles in order to do slicing better (Cura is somehow sensitive here). Over times I've tested so many curved and coned models in order to understand how to "prepare" a model for Cura to be sliced as good as possible in order to make a good 3D print of my object. So here is how I'll do curved and "dome" prints; 1) Increase the number of triangles in your model, just put a high number up... Do not think about megabyte size, think more about your model quality! -You can always delete a big temporary file. 2) Use the "finest" (0.006 mm if you can) height resolution you have! 3) Select adaptive layer height in Cura (search in the menu for this setting). The above should make a much better surface outcome for curving and high "overhanging angle" part of your print. But you use support, -do you? And sure no warranty here.. 🙂 Sure I've tested your model.. So just increase the number of triangles in the stc file of this model. Cura work much better with enough number (resolution) of triangles. But do not forget the rest of settings.. This is just my experience. Good Luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi medicalmodeller, Somehow, -something went wrong.. Try to swap it again! This change of feeder, will mechanical change direction, -so your wire swap -somehow failed.. Just do it again, -and it will work.. 🙂 Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi szymon, Your problem is the model from Fusion 360, -increase the numbers of triangles when exporting the model to (stl format) for the printer. Your wall is segmented and Cura apparently follow those and makes additional travels due to this issue. I've used Cura 4.7.1 to view your model. If you have a nicely curved model, -make sure you have a good number of triangles to avoid such a problem. A good object viewer and a good 3D printer will show segments.. Here's a picture of the setting change in Fusion 360. Adjust the setting by selecting refinement.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi KingofSpade218, I've come to think about some other issues as you have a brand new printer.. If there's to high friction in the various sliding bearing, -not lubricated as it's supposed to be (such friction can make the stepper motor loosing steps). So check this point about lubrication according to the user manual. Lastly, also check that the current setting for the stepper motors is properly set; "too lo current may result in loosing step and too high current might damage your stepper driver circuit over time". Current setting might be adjusted by setting in printer menu, or by adjusting a trim resistor on the main PCB (printed circuit board). Well, this is all I can think about for now. PS. This is the first time I've seen this printer, -but this thing is "quite" general for mostly all 3D printers. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi KingofSpade218, This look likes the hole model come loose from the bed and been slamming some around during printing... -Or as a mechanical problem in your printer... Check for any loose set screw in the X/Y stepper linkage.. Just my two pence. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi tr0g, I've been looking at the firmware for the Creality CR-6 SE, I've found that there is a few versions using same firmware: (The below statement if from the read me file together with the firmware.) ----- 32-bit Mainboard Firmware Flash Torial (Applicable models:Ender-3 Pro/ Ender-3 V2 Ender-5/ Ender-5 Pro/ Ender-6/ CR-6 SE) Tutorial: Prepare an SD card, format the SD card, copy the firmware to the SD card, then insert the SD card into the motherboard, it will automatically flash after booting, wait until it finishes flashing, delete the firmware in the SD card. Youtube Video Guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPqpZwl-NTw ---- Checked Ender-3 Pro and Ender-5 Pro and the only difference is the bed size, so if you select one of them and activate the printer in Cura, you will be able to adjust the bed size to: X=235, Y=235 and Z=250 (unchanged). In here there is also a tab for the nozzle setting. After the adjustment you just rename to Creality CR-6 SE. (Edit: Used Cura Version 4.7.1) Hope this help. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, Yes, you're right -the queue is "made" in the printer.. 🙂 Cheers Torgeir.

Hi gbroemer, Welcome in here. I've never seen anything about such a problem in here, however, I'll think this is possible with the newer generation of printers that can use wifi for printing. Those printers contain a so called buffer memory, it might actually work as a fifo (first in first out) flash disk. This buffer "disk" might have a decent size so it can hold a big file that's uploaded via wifi, -cause a "drop out" here will/might ruin our printing object. -If it is such a kind of "buffer" memory, it might hold a number of old files in a row... It is not easy to diagnostic such a problem, but most likely this is caused by the firmware combined by another issue that create this outcome. A factory reset might be something, also a reload of the current firmware edition (or the previous one). Lastly, I'll like to mention the use of profiles, -as it "can" control/adjust the firmware.. Just my two pence. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, Is not this a place where to use the tree support? But sure, -just from the picture you show us.. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi aag, This seems to be created when the Y axe movement fwd/aft. Just like a belt is trying to climb on a pulley(?) You'll normally see some rubber collected up on the floor in one of the four corners, -typically remains of black rubber partickles. But I'll guess it's like Erin suggested, the short belt for the Y stepper.. So inner left corner.. Thanks Good luck Torgeir

Hi @dbrgn, Way to go.. Thanks for the feedback! The Power supply is in general the fault of about 80 percent of all failures in the electronics, -in general. So about 20 percent of the failures is of other causes... This is all said by experience over a long time. 🙂 Thanks Good luck. Torgeir.

Hi rotorhead, You're right there is a built in max hi temp protection and temp sensor failure protection. This protection is made for the extruder and heat bed. This is the highest level of error in an UM2 that will cut the power -so all heaters and steppers will loose power! On this PCB there is also two safety switches input, that might be used for over temperature issues etc. Normally those two connectors are shorted by a link. If one of those two open K1 also open. A max temp switch/sensor might be used in here.. For the separate power supply itself, you might install it in a vented metal box. However, those power supplies normally have several protection "fuses" built in. For the main power, I'm using an extension cord with several connectors in a row plus a main switch. After turning off the printer I'll then switch off the main switch that's kill the power to the printer power supply. I'm not sure about the max temp for the UM2 extruder but I'll think it was 265 deg. C. I'm sure @tinkergnome now those temperature limits. 😉 Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi gilbert, You certainly talked with the right person. : 😉 Have a look here: Torgeir.

Just forgot, I've learned that people use to heat the heat block using a propane burner to clean out stuck filament remains, however I've never done that, but there might be someone here in the forum that can fill in here. Thanks Torgeir

I've wrote a little about this some time ago, you'll find it here: Here's a link to Strawsons design, the Fan Duct spacer (stl file) that's improve the flow through the radiator: https://github.com/StrawsonDesign/Ultimaker2_Mods/tree/master/Parts/Fan Duct Hope this help. Regards Torgeir

Hi @dpgtaylor, You got lots of good advice here for sure. I'll just want to say that I'll agree very much with @Smithy, -you sure have a "hot end cooling" issue. Even the fact the fan is running, -does not mean your hot end cooling is good! The heath "somehow" climb through the coupler and create high friction resulting to under extrusion.. There is also another problem, -the nozzle you're using is not in perfect match with the flat surface in the heath block to match (your latest pictures). So this match is leaking and thermoplastic is filling the threads! This cause, less thermal conductivity between nozzle and block as well as leaking filament into the coil surface. This is information from your last pictures. Due to this fact, your nozzle do not deliver enough heat and is leaking through the coil reducing heat transfer. The flange between nozzle and heath block should be very "precise and even" in order to keep the temperature even through the complete heath block. I'm using copper paste in the treads between the nozzle and the heath block. This improve the thermal contact between block and nozzle! Also it is easier to remove when needed. It is very important to use "original nozzles" for the type of block used. The flange between nozzle and block is very important to be correct, -not leaking here, -or else old deposit from previous print might make problem collecting up here and ruin your ongoing print. Finally, the wires for the heath block "heating" and heath block "temperature" might cover up the inflow for the cooling radiator. This can reduce your cooling by ~35 %. "There is a small modification to improve this." Anyway, just my opinion. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir