Torgeir

I'll think you'll need to make the whole model "joined all together" before you export from "Fusion 360" to Cura. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Stan, Good progress. I made quite a few test with your "test" model and found that, by just adjusting the "Z Seam Alignment" to: "User Specified" and "Z Position" to "Back" you may have fare less blob on the surfaces of the model. There is just a little you have to remove around the edges, but look much better IMO., in the preview mode using the "gcode" file that is ready to be printed. This is the only adjustment I made to your file. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi Eric, Great that you've got your printer back in service. Sure I missed this one.. I'll think this has happened before as well. Actually you can see this here in your picture: Yes, -this was a learning for me, but hope you kept the unit that was changed, cause this parts is possible to print. As this is an UM3, all the stl files for such parts is open source.. I've just put up the picture for others to see. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Savak001, you should use this power supply, as I do on my UM2+ext. This deliver 295 W and work well. https://www.pchub.com/dell-common-item-dell-ac-adapter-20v-above-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-p160274 This is Dell N112H 24VDC 12.3 Amp version and have the right type of connector for an UM2 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Stan, That's great news, way to go! Thanks for the feedback. Torgeir

Hi @AZ-RAD, Welcome in here and congratulation with this new printer.. Yes, default print temperature is 225 deg. C., however we use to start with a little higher temp then decrease some during progress and at the last part of the print. This is one of the later features of Cura AFAIK. You can set the temp in Cura (4.8.0) under material as shown here: Good Luck. Thanks Torgeir

Yes, this is about right I'll think. I also took a measure and here's the pictures: Here is the distance along the X-axe (from left to right). Here is a temporary point made on the left inner pulley on the L/H X-axis. This appear to be close to 40 mm.. So this mean @geert_2 was absolutely right.. Torgeir

Hi @A2k, I'll think geert_2 is right, you have at least two "rotating" shaft that is slightly bent. If you measure the distance between the mid of "filament" bumps, this distance will match "one rev" distance the head will move on the bed. So one rotation of the "12mm" shaft will be equal to the distance between the bumps.. Did you get this problem all of a sudden?

Is not this happen only when you're printing TPU95A? A problem with Z axe will be visible with "any" type of filament.. Torgeir

Hi @A2k, This looks like the glass plate have small bumps, -hi where there is no filament seen. Maybe the plate is installed reverse side up? There's normally a heat warning on the up side.. Thanks Torgeir

Sorry to hear this. This is strange, -so do you print other filaments using the same print core? A clean print core is important for printing with this "soft" filament.. Also for all the "exotic" special filaments I have found that, it is advantageous to use a nozzle or print core only for that type of filament. Soft filaments and high temp filament's require some "special attention" - for the nozzle/print core you're using -and is often in the "experimental" class of 3D printing. So, if you're printing different material it's important to make sure that the nozzle/print core is clean. The most important thing when printing "filaments" known to be humidity sensitive is to STORE the filaments properly. Most of the high sensitive filaments will be contaminated on the outermost part of the beginning of the roll, so unwinding this part "say one meter" and cut it off. The cleaning procedure is here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652559-Print-core-cleaning-maintenance-schedule IMO., the above is the most common problem we'll see in our FDM 3D printing. Hope this help you somehow. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, First thing to check.. If the "Color Scheme" for lines helpers etc. is deselected there will be no view in preview mode. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dprntz, If it shut down like this, the problem is in your power supply, -or in the wiring toward the printer - but most probably in the power supply unit itself. Sorry but this below is only for UM2, Not UMO with 1.5.7 board... To much UM2+ thinking..🤔 ----- If it do not shut down, but the K1 relay is faulty; -your heat bed, extruder heater and all of your stepper motors will neither work. There is no warning that is reporting that the K1 relay is faulty! However, as soon your try to increase the bed temperature there will be an error displayed as; "Error Stopped" - "Heater Error" etc., depending of what you're trying to do.. After this error you cannot do anything, but recycling the power switch will get you back to previous stage. All things look normal until you try to print or making some test function related to the above functions. ----- UMO. You are talking about making the MOS FET transistor for the heat bed to driving the relay directly? This do not change anything and your power reset will still occur.. You need a power supply that can handle this load.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @UltiDad, Welcome in here. You are missing a total of tree screws, two on the 12 mm sliding blocks for the bed "rods" and the left screw holding the aft cover installed upon the bed (the one with the Ultimaker 2+ name). You'll find the screws P/N in the manual for this printer. Here is the link to the installation manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1210403/Ultimaker-Um2.html Thanks Torgeir

Hi Eric, Thank you for sharing your story with us. As usual, your amazing print work are full of details.. Way to go! Great to see you’re back. Cheers Torgeir

Hmm, There is some issues with Cura when viewing the file in "slicing mode", I just come to think about this issue. just forgot this one, -open Cura 4.8, then load the actual gcode file saved for printing by Burts Master version, you will now see no seam anymore.. Just did a test of this, so now you know. I'll guess it will work that way in the master as well.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Well, I was just trying to send some questions about this, cause the fact is you'll see the seam in Cura preview .but the seam is gone when you actually print it. You may look at the gcode file (using notepad / notepad+), in here you will only se one G0 code in the beginning of the file. During the whole spiralize printing there is no G0 commands.. I've used S3D to confirm this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi ultimatecreator, Just been looking at the files you've added here, so I'll know this firmware build is based on Marlin. In the firmware folder there is 5 different *.bin files (only counting the (en) versions). Further, the main board, the extruder and LCD screen are the same for all versions. However, the leveling sensor, the stepper driving types board (here they name it motor) and if there is one or two Z stop switches. So you must know the leveling type used; PL-08N or 3D Touch? Next is the motor driver type board used; A4988 or TMC220X series? (X is here digit 8 or 9). Last if there is a double Z -switches installed? (The two last variants in the readme file appear to be the same.. So if you identify those items it should be easy to find the right firmware file, yes you rename this to "firmware.bin". I've also see they added the whole marlin "setup" with the parameters for your printer, but this should not be needed here and are maybe added for modification issues. I'll assume when you made it working first time, all the stepper motors direction etc. seemed right? You just missing the tree extra feeders? Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Greg, Well, the Cura “team” said that this problem has not been prioritized -and it might be due to issues we knows little about. Also, we should know, -such fix might impact next version(s) of Cura (they are working on?). Of course, I’ve also using a “number” of slicers, but all of them are different versions of Cura.. 🙂 But there is also one other slicer I’ve; the Simpify 3D (S3D), this one since ~2015. I’ve used this slicer together with Cura as the preview in S3D was much better. I’m still using this function in S3D for “comparing” when there is issues found in “preview” mode. Sure -also using Burts Master version of Cura for the same reason. His latest version really make a nice vase printing, in here there is no G0, just one in the start part to prevent blob. So I’ll think -if Cura “team” find this one compatible it’ll soon be implemented into Cura. Burt have delivered a number of “fork” that’s implemented into the Original version of Cura. Way to go! 🙂 So, IMO Cura is the best slicer there is -and it is free for us to use. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @GregValiant, Yes I'll remember this one -and sure this was a small error in the X/Y axis.. Sometimes I thought also the Z axis was off -but I was just fooled as Cura, as it “sometimes” did not want to go into real spiralized mode. I found this by studying the gcode files in preview mode, -as every next line it jumped up to next level height. I thought this was probably some issues, as Cura steadily increased the number of new function/adjustment possibilities that’s needed some attention to make this function work. However, later on I figured this “might” have been some “round off” issue, cause Cura always did this small movement to catch up the “say predicted position” that’s calculated ahead. Also the angle of the wall, tilting outward or inward play a role here. So the math here is kind of intricate.. By just adjusting; layer height/width -one could improve this somehow. So “when layer width increased” the error correction was from inside of object to correct spot joining the path direction/tilt from previous layer. When the nozzle move like this, you see a line inside where this “correction” is done (-sure a small notch might also be seen outside). When printing a symmetrical cylinder there is no X/Y track offset, only some offset along the print track (the back fort movement), again maybe “round off” issue? Then when the layer width decrease the opposite happen, yes error corrected from the outside of the object. Just some small thing learned about this “problem”. ------- However, Burt have found the error here and fixed it. In the read me file about this he says: “* Spiralized models that are not 100% solid can be printed using variable line widths.” This one work very well, I can confirm it -but the viewer (preview mode), still show small line and this will be easily fixed I’ll think. Anyway, Cura is a great slicer.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @berkov, Welcome in here. (Hmm. There never was a feedback on this tread, feedback is important for issues like this for sure..) This relay only supply power to all the stepper motors and heaters plus some indicator diodes. So if you hear a click then your printer shout down (after a little use of the heaters), this is definitely a "power supply problem" - as all power is lost! If you have a wire is close to fail, this might happen as in such case the voltage will drop much and printer will shut down. Try to change the power supply, that's be the first thing we'll try with such a fault. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

If this is the normal setting, I would only reduce the bed (if I'm right, it's Y?).. How much? Don't know, but 25% less should do some changes.. 🙂

Just forgot one thing.. As the bed is moving the print object, it might be a much smoother ride if the acceleration is decreased. Just to mention. Torgeir.

Hi Stan, This is a very challenging print not just for your printer, but for any fdm 3D printer.. 🙂 I've no experience with your type of printer, but there is some common thing that's might improve a little. As there is very "marginal" first layer, or better - solid bed attachment for some parts of your print object. So decrease support angle to at least 45 deg (your project 63 deg) in order to have some more support and you may also increase support density say from (5 to 10)% or even more. As the model climb higher, the mass off the object increase and "center of gravity" CG arm also increase for this part. If this go on with high speed (50 mm/s), the force produced by the accelerating heat bed (Y axis) might be high enough to tear the object off the heat bed. So I would go down to half of the speed for all tree speed settings as a try -say 25 mm/s. Another thing that's may improve the surface of the object is to set Z seam to sharpest corner. This shoud make some better surface of your print. Last thing is the retraction setting for your printer, this also is a key tool for blobs and stringing among -temp setting fan setting fine tuning. This latter thing is some settings thats depend of your printers proprties I cannot answer. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dprntz, This mean the bed is equipped with a PT100 thermistor and a heat element with a resistivity of 3.5 ohms. The PT100 mean; it will show 100 ohm across the two wires when the probe is immersed into a stirred "ice bath". (This is the most used reference for zero deg. Celsius.) As the UMO shield do not have any heat sink on the N-channel MOS FET (normally), because the design describe a MOS FET (STP55NF06L) that can cope with 55 Amp ID at 60 VDSS max. This will work very well as gr5 said. I've seen a few shield meant for Arduino Mega made with all kind of "strange" lo rated MOS FET installed, so I'm not surprised if some of those shield cannot hold the requested current for the bed. For the heat bed temp sensor, you need to select: PT100 with 4k7 ohm (pull up resistor). Thanks Torgeir