Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler Whenever you're ready. Torgeir

Hi @gr5 Thanks, sure I'll agree about that. However, this issue is all about the "corrupted" stl file, that was converted from an original "good" step file. This file was also made so it "should" be possible to print it in spiralized mode. To me "true" spiralized mode, are when "every" relative move on an object have a change in all three axis (x, y and z). An UM S5 have a resolution of 2.5 micron in the z axis, this is 400 step / mm so this "should" be possible with this printer. With all this, I tried to figure out what was wrong with the step file. So imported it into Fusion 360 and looking inside of this object and found that all of the inside consist of different parts in here, so I realized this file had to be joined together so this object become one solid part before converting to stl. This was all I had to do and after this the conversion was perfect, except for one thing I've to turn off the preset selected setting in the "Mesh fixer" in cura, cause it created some hole inside.. As I'll have been used a lot of time the last three years, -looking at this new Arachne slicing engine I know there is not much to find about it, however there is one document describing this new cura engine very detailed. It's here: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0010448520301007/pdf Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD, Here's the answer to your final question, your model without any issue. Picture inside the stl file using Cura 4.13.1: And here is the project file made with same version of Cura for an UM2E+ UM2E_Test_Step_Clean_h_0_15.3mf Edit: Everything go wrong, added wrong project file this is the correct one. This should be what you wanted, but took some time.. There is still some leaking joints.. Use 0.4 nozzle width and 0.15 mm layer height and all will be fine. Well, -I did not use any mesh tools for this. Also, in the "Mesh fix" deselect all the setting there. My last input on this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dFirefly, Welcome in here. I'll think you'll need to install OpenScad to the C disk, but else as above, -cause of Windows.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD, First, I'm sorry that I jumped in and disturbed in here -that was not my intention for sure. So then to your problem, the advanced sliced cuboid, when we look outside this model, it seems to be nice, however, if we have a look inside (using a proper tool) - the model look horrible! The inside "the cutted track's" is full of holes but the outlines is still there.. (-So it can be repaired sort of). We may ask, why is it like this? I'll think you might know the answer. I'll never have this kind of issue in the objects I've created and sliced, -never! Cura show you all this, not having the auto mesh fill or mesh fix "fantastic" -that other slicers have... If you have a detailed model, with lots of important issues inside, -what slicer would you use then? Here's how your model (stl) looks from inside (using Fusion 360 full version): This is just on part of one wall. Here is a picture of Cura 5.40 B1 showing the same issue, not a coincidence. I'll hope this give another impression of Cura. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there. Why not give the latest version of (Cura 5.40 B1) a try? So I did this: Here are the "water" test, a picture of how the gcode file from Cura 5.40 B1 look line viewed in S3D. When the "water" test looks like this -also in S3D, I'll know the object will print nicely with my UM2. (Did you notice the "big" difference in Cura 5.30 and later ?) 🙂 Happy mid summer to all. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ruttger, Hmm, did not read your posting good enough, maybe I'm getting to old.. 😕 Did you change the whole PCB? Or just the PT100B? Is the UM2C+ meant to wear the "environment" hat always on, or can you remove the "hat" at will? Just come to think that, if you remove the "hat" -the software would deselect this temperature sensor. Also wonder about the fan used for venting. Some fan types are notorious for making electromagnetic noise spread around their wires that can block other low signal amplifiers such as the input from the PT100. There might (?) be a way in the firmware to deselect this sensor, at least as a test? Just my 5p. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ruttger, When you started, the "build room" temperature was 25 deg. C. The temperature to trig stop is unknown for us If I'll give an estimate, -that will be around 100 deg. C maybe a little more -but certainly not 250 deg. Celsius! Edit. I've changed quite a few of this type (PT100) of temp resistor, and what you see here is just a common thing. I'm quite sure this is your problem, -however in theory other thing can fail, but this is no1 to suspect. This is a surface mounted platinium resistor (PT100), and quite easy to change if one have the tools/skills to do this. Otherwise this little PCB cant be very expensive. Here is a cut out from picture given by @CarloK showing the parts: Thanks Torgeir

Hallo @Alf-1234, Welche Teile fehlen Ihnen? Sagen Sie uns einfach, vielleicht ist das einfach. Danke Torgeir

Hi @cura0815, Welcome in here. I've tried slicing this water can using spralized "mode", single wall and 5 layer bottom. There is no issue with extruder jumping from cone tip to water outlet place (front of the can) as far as I can see. I'll think you better save your "Project" file, containing; your model, Cura version with all of your setting for the model, then someone will look for sure. Here's how detail what it looks like in the gcode viewer Cura 5.3.0: Here is my project file (for printer UM2E+): UM2E_watering_can2.3mf Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Schmordan, Thanks, I'll got plenty of time, so no problem. 🙂 That's good information, lets see how to improve. The overhang this model have this close to the bed is quite extreme, -as I have an UM2ext+ having two cooling fans and sure this will be something to struggle as well with this printer. If you send your project file someone have a look at the settings (see menu "File" then select "Save Project"). A project file contains - Cura version -all the setting, your model and printer type. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD This is a stp file, not a stl. However, I converted it to stl for you using Autocad fusion 360. I'd expect a kind of vase model, but this is a Cube that cannot be spiralized -well unless you use "surface mode" single wall and without top and bottom.. Test_Step_AP203.stl Thanks Torgeir

Thanks for replying back. Torgeir

Hi @WPLInnovationLab Welcome in here. The problem you have is probably a faulty main PCB, and has to be solved by an Ultimaker dealer close to you as your printer need to be repaired. You may also contact Ultimaker/Makerbot here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/ Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Lodden, All water contains "natural organics and minerals" and this are varying much of where you live. This may colorize the water like brownish or even yellow, but it is not that easy to see this colors in our drinking water. When dissolving PVA from printed object, it is best to remove as much as possible before using water for removing PVA from the model. As water dissolve the PVA, it will at some point be saturated and the process slow down. Then we remove the slime, dissolves it more with water and flushes it down the drain. Then we do this process over again as many times as needed, -sometimes also by using a brush. After all this work, it is very important to clean off all of the "eventually" slimy remain of PVA that could collect up in your cleaning container. Remains from previous "PVA" cleaning may dry and stick, becoming a "new" peace of PVA to be diluted and collecting some new brownish organic from the water. If this go on for some time, this will color the stuck and glued PVA. You can submerge your model into a container with water *(35-40) deg. C. and wait until this PVA "particles" become soft, the use a hand shower *(with moderate flow) and a brush to remove the "slime" with. I think the long process time also dissolved "old" stored PVA that was collected somehow in the removal station. Normally we say the processing time is between 8 and 12 hour (in tempered water), but sure depending of size of the model and support. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @dblrnbw, Welcome in here. There is a lot of questions for you to answer, -if we're posting like this. Please attach your project file for this test object. This will give us; what version of Cura you're using, the printer type and the settings used to print your object. (In total, there is more than "30" versions of Cura!) This is the best way to have an answer of 3D printing problems. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Schmordan, This often happen when printing objects that's have overhang starting close to the heat bed, as heat is radiated from the bed close by. Can be a problem cause the cooling fan may be shadowed by the object in certain angles. This can be a tricky problem to solve, but printing with blue tape and heat bed off work well for me. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ruttger, Just found this parts catalogue for UM2+C. I'll think @gr5 is right, -so maybe it's just the high temp value of the inside also act as a safety device shutting down the printer? One open wire in temp sensors often lead to extreme values, either hi or lo. There's just enough in this catalogue to have a better idea of the location etc. The main board look some different.. Here it is: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3761279.pdf Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ahoeben, Never noticed this Thanks. 🙂 Maybe better to change the name to "Generic PLA Copy". Torgeir

Hi @ednewbold, Just go to "Preference" menu in Cura, then select "Configure Cura" and seclct "Materials". You will see this menu: You simply have to duplicate the material with the properties you want to change, then you have a copy written in "Italic" that's show this is an editable copy. Edith: The above statement is wrong! In here you'll see that I've changed the printing temperature to 210. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @YenJiWai, To have a quick answer, -Just upload your project or stl file here and someone may help you. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @NTwoO, Not trying to hijack anything here.. By following treads there are things to learn for sure.. So in my mind, this is a very good question. I loaded your project into Cura and found a small object, so I thought this is inches but the object come together nicely as it should. So I exported your project file into Autocad Fusion 360, to have an idea of the size and that was (60*150*150)mm. (?) This was the whole rectangle horizontally divided in two. Just created one of the two half and then exported the object as "stl file" to Cura. Next step is to export it from Cura as: "Body1.stl" My intention by this, is to make a copy of this object and name it: Body2.stl When loading these two object in Cura, you may mark both object and load to Cura. Due to the size of the two object, on will drop to the build plate and the other is outside. If we assume the active nozzle 1 contain white PLA and nozzle 2 contain red PLA. Now mark the object (mouse arrow) on the build plate. When the object is selected it will be white and the position offset (if any) will show up in the window *) left side for X, Y and Z. Make sure that all, X, Y and Z are set to 0 (zero). ------------------------------------- A Note here: In the "old" Cura versions older than: 5.20 Beta: There is one check box "Lock Model" in the window *) In the newer Cura versions, including Cura 5.20 Beta: There is two check boxes "Lock Model" and "Drop Down Model" in the window *) For those previous versions you'll need to go to Cura "Menu" Preference and select Configure Cura. In this page you're inside General Settings, inside here you'll find checkbox "Automatically drop the model to the build plate". This checkbox has to be unchecked in order to avoid the model to drop to the build plate and will be a must to make this work! For the new versions you'll need to uncheck the checkbox "Drop Down Model" in the window *). Now we're ready for Body2, just mark it as previous, then left mouse button and select Nozzle2. While the Body2 is sill selected, set Z parameter in window *) to 30mm, then select X parameter to 0. This should move your Body2 precise above Body1 and both objects form your model with the two colors. Here are the two models, the mesh variant (model "glued") and the "manual" floating model variant. Both are saved as project files for UMS3. UMS3_interlockflat_mesh_variant.3mf UMS3_interlockflat_floating_variant.3mf Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, This is most interesting, a wing can be printed in many ways, you can draw it in a special way, as Tom Stranton did, so the model can be made completely in spiralized -or layer by layer as most model like this is made. In here, you'll find a some interesting things about LW-PLA and the selection of color for RC models made by thermoplastics. (Haven't been trying LW-PLA-HT). Heat from sun is "best" reflected by the white color (high gloss polished aluminium is the best reflector). Further, dull black is the lowest reflecting color. Most thermoplastic's have a heat capacity "quite" equal, but the different colors make the cooling effect (heat transfer) on your object much depending of the color! The easiest to print with is black -and the most difficult is plain white(need more cooling)! Here is the way Tom Stranton did it: His interesting way of using gyroscopic control his two engine VTOL model. This is "kind of" the aviation's answer to "SegWay".. https://hackaday.com/2022/08/22/optimising-a-rc-tilt-rotor-vtol/ This is his way of drawing a wing that's easier for the slicer to spiralize. Happy printing and flying! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Adam324, Just select "Skirt" instead of brim in your profile, then you have the brim under the support and skirt around your model. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, I found this very interesting as there's so many different ways to go with this. I'd just divided the wall width with 2, (1.05/2=0.525) mm and adjusted "Wall Line Width" from 0.4 mm to 0.52mm Then selected from "Normal" to "Surface" mode in the menu "Special Mode", that's all. Here's picture from Cura 5.31 It print each layer in one go, then next starting inside the cross with next layer. Here's picture from Cura 4.13.1 Same thing here, except from the starting point (the visible withe line). This is just another approach to solve just this issue. Thanks Torgeir