Torgeir

Hi @TomKamphuys, Welcome in here. Please tell us what printer you you're using as someone with the same printer may give additional info about this. It's hard to give any advice here, but save your model as a "project" file. Use the "file pane" in upper left corner and share this file with us. (This file will contain your model and the setting's in Cura.) Then sure, someone will try to help you. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tryptamine, Your 3MF file is corrupted, tried tree different versions of Cura. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @displaynamenotallowed, Welcome in here. I've read your story in here and I'll think several see some part of their approach into the 3d world like you describe. As you mention version 3.6 of Cura, I can say that's the version is also the one I'm using for RC stuff or tiny models. For sure, I'm using -even an older versions of Cura as well! I do not think there is any other slicer, that’s has been developed with so many editions over such a short time as Cura. Just now I'm on a vacation at the Canary Island (west of Africa), so I'm far from my 3d printer's. Hopefully we can print that wing profile -after some attempt.. And save the settings. But I'm in holyday mode, so it may take some time. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @FLESKET2000, Great job and good feedback. I'll think 305 mm is good and makes a good overlap for the Z clearance when printing at max height. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @FLESKET2000, Thanks. Missed steps happen when the print head hit a sudden stop, then the stepper motor skip back and "try" again and again until the number of steps it should go is done. The firmware do not have any control of the position, so it will just go on printing further on the object offset in the air. (This mean that the printer is out of synch and the printing must be aborted. If you do this, the printer will home all axis, assuming they all might be in outer extreme position. When you then restart for another print all axes are synchronized.) So when the printer hit something, this may often lead to missed steps and it makes a lot of noise. The stepper motors torque is adjusted by the current feed to the motor. Note: The setscrew for the Z axis need to be (filed) rounded off after the cutting, if not the repeated bed position may vary a little from time to time. This as the sharp cut may slide off the lip differently for time to time and cause some height differences. So if you use manual bed adjustment, this might cause some problem. This screw can be adjusted from top by using a hex tool, but may also contain a lock nut to prevent the screw from turning and de adjusting over time. I would turn on the printer and "home" the bed, make the bed to go to start position the position that make the highest object. Set the right core in down position and measure the height from the glass plate and straight up (90 deg.,) to nozzle 2. This height should be at least 300 mm. Hmm 295 mm is just 5 mm from the max height, so some fine tuning might help if this is close. (This test will answer if the height is too low.) Hope this help. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi there. Just come to think about an issue with two of the "late" firmware versions for the 3S and 5S printer's, as a few people lately complained about the bed leveling. See this: Bed leveling reliability Ultimaker S-line firmware versions 7.0.4 and 7.1.0 contained an error in the bed leveling code. This caused an increase in failed bed leveling attempts when starting a print, while the hardware was working perfectly fine. This 7.1.3 release fixes the issue and significantly improves bed leveling performance. Here's the direct link: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667410781982 Just to be mentioned. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @FLESKET2000, Normally we ask for the firmware version you are using on the UM3E, then the version of Cura and the gcode of the model to see if the gcode is doing this. Could this be something with the new Cura? -Or, are you using the old version Cura? Further, could this be a firmware/hardware failure -or is this caused by a "plugin" module? There is plenty of combinations here. However, when the head collided with the print, you could hear the there was missinig steps, also the Z axe made a synch when hitting the bottom Z end switch. Have you ever printed this model before without any issue, or did this happened just the first time you printed this object? If your printer still have this problem, the information about firmware/Cura version and the gcode is needed to go any further. Thanks Torgeir

Does this happen only when printing close to the max height? This is some strange, to me it seems that the print is not finished and at next move down (to print a layer more) the Z down switch is hitted/activated. This will move up the bed to the start position (thats is located in to high pos). I'll think the Z end stop switch is a little to high adjusted and this will be an issue when printing object close to max height. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @FLESKET2000, You need to put a number in for E- {retraction amount} as: E -4.5 Torgeir

Hi @AddMan, Yes, for sure Nylon is the filament to use if you need something that do not just break off.. I'll think this is among the toughest filament there is. Well for Taluman you'll need PVA "sluss" deluted.. I've reading in here that Ultimaker Nylon stick very hard to the bed and may be very hard to remove without loosing some chips from the bed. But in this case it is also good to use PVA to avoid this hard "stickness". To loosen up PVA attached object, put the whole thing (with bed) into a water bath of approx 40 deg. C. and leave it there for some time. After 30-45 min use a tiny spatel to carefully split the object from the bed, just a little by time. This have allways worked for me. If your printer is to be used, -another bed is handy then. It's not difficoult, but take's some time. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Fisher14, Welcome in here. Sure we all started at some point, so have a look at this video, this will give you the basic thing you need to know about first. There is plenty of things about all this, but this is a good beginning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2L-x0CcIYM Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @AddMan, I'll share some pictures of this project, but first something to explain. This was about how to get the object to stick to the bed, tryed just a clean bed (using the UM 2E+ for this). The Taluman3D bridge nylon was not that easy to bond properly to the bed, after lots of test with glue sticks etc., I ended up using diluted PVA glue (the carpenters wood glue). Diluted 1 part glue into 12 part of water mixed well. I've used a flat foam brush about 1.5 inc wide, this makes it easy to make a nice surface of deluted glue. Before spreading the glue, i've use to heat the bed to about 40 deg. C. I'd use to cover up twice of the space I'll need on the bed. After first layer is dried, it allmost disappear, but wait ultil all is glue are dried. Then redo this process until you have at least four layers of diluted glue. Then you should be ready for first print. The pictures here is from the first test with the object as it originally looked, however I realized this bearing needed some redesign. So this is the first picture of the two variants made: Here you see the warping as the model lifted off the bed. The left one is how the original was made, here with PLA. Number two: Same from another angle. Number three: There was a few more inbetween, but.. Number four: After printer finished. Number five: Inserted into the "propeller". This is just some general thing, but might help some. Here's two liks to annealing nylon and PLA you may find interessting. https://www.plasticsintl.com/media/wysiwyg/Nylon___Reinforced_Nylon_Annealing.pdf https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/annealing-makes-3d-prints-better/ Good luck Torgeir

Hi @AddMan, Well, I've actually made some parts for our "old" dishwasher (the first mode here in Scandinavia using a microprocessor!). Sure it's still working strong and bought in 1983. A few parts may be very easy to print and use. But inside the washing cabinet we'll need some tough filament. I've been experimenting with a few types, but only one really stand the test -and this is Nylon! I'm using Nylon from Taulman3D, that is Bridge Nylon 2.85 mm Natural. You may find some special types, certified for medical or food usage so there is a lots to choose between. So to the part I've printed for our dishwasher, this is the upper bearing for the water spreding "propeller". This dishwaser deal with 70 degrease Celsius water during the process. But worse is the drying sequence, about 15 minute and water damp up to 90 degrease Celsius(!) and this is the absolute worst periode for this bearing to survive. The challance here is to design the part so it's strong in the direction needed to be and also dimensioned so it fit properly into the place it's used! You may install parts when they have a temperature thats softend the object a "little". This will make it possible to install more easely like "to snap it on", I.E. you may not be able to removit after cooling down. Printing with Taulman Bridge; printing temperature ca. 255 deg C. bed temperature 50 deg. C. I'm using draft shield, see experimantal phane. The printer is closed in completly, no cooling fan for the printing object. The very important here is to make sure all layers are completely glued and infill 100%! Important thing is to find the temperatur making the best "gluing" and with less stringing. There may be a little stringing, but should be easy to remove. After printing the model/object, you should not be able to tear of any part from the object! If you do, you have to lo printing temperature and gluing is not as it should be. Nylon is superstrong and you'll ned a real good cutter to part it up! I have some picture of the project, if it's of interesst. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Maptogram, welcome in here. Wow, what a great print, very nice! So to the questions, what sort of printer did you use -and what kind of slicer? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @mark269, aha understood, well it is the ground side that¨is controlling the speed of those two fans. This is indeed a good sign somehow. If there is a constantly ground at the minus side of the fans, this will happend. Actually such a short would not destroy your mother board! But there is a change there is a constant ground present at the negative side of the fans. Edit: There is allways 24VDC present when the power is on, but the ground side is controlled by the mother board. The board adjust the current to pass through here, hence controlling the fan speed. There should be no ground present at the minus side when the connector for those two fan is removed. It is very important to not try to move change anything in the wiring path, as this can "remove" the failure temporarly, to return later.. There might be a ground short somewhere, Did you have any issuer requiring repair in the head lately? I'll ask this because often after maintenance or repair such thing often happen. The id for this voltage is VCC/2 and is 24 VDC. So the two 12 VDC fan are connected in serial. So, the minus wire (connected to J14 pin 2) might be grounded all the time -or the driver transistor controlling the current is shorted. This transistor is T1 P/N: BC817. So this wire might be shorted to ground at some place -or the transistor T1 on the main board is shorted (internally shorted). Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @mark269, As you hav an Ultimaker 2Extended, there is NO control of the nozzle cooling fan. I did not know that an UM2ext had this feature built in, but maybe the later versions had? The fan turns on when you turn the master on and go off when master is switched off! So do not worry about that. The factory built UM2+ have a feature thats turning this fan at approx 40 deg C. What you say is correct for an "UM2Extended", the printer I have (upgraded to a plus version later but still have the old fan version). If you do have the black feeder unit, this is the old version, however there "might" be a version of UM2Ext with this feature included..? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @mark269, As you hav an Ultimaker 2Extended, there is NO control of the nozzle cooling fan. I did not know that an UM2ext had this feature built in, but "maybe" the later versions had? The fan turns on when you turn the master on and go off when master is switched off! So do not worry about that. The factory built UM2+ have a feature thats turning this fan at approx 40 deg Celsius nozzle temperature. What you say is correct for an "UM2Extended", the printer (I have), upgraded to a plus version later -but still have the old fan version. If you do have the black feeder unit, this is the old version, however there "might" be a version of UM2Ext with this feature included..? Maybe someone else know somthing more about this issue? But if this fan is running all the time, there is no problem of printing like this as the idea is to save the life lenght of this fan (during idling after print is finish) and reduce noice in idle mode. EG. when printer is on without printing. PS. If there have been a kind of short circuit here, it is possible that the transistor controlling this circuit is on "all the time". Thanks Torgeir

Hi @upsman, Wellcome in here. As I am one working with electronics for quite some years, sure know the wording "invert". But wondering that would not a "mirrow" of your object do what you want? The slicer Ultimaker have is named Cura and Cura can mirrow an object in stl format. Hope this is what you're looking for. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Coyote_Blue, Sure I can. I have been using this output (24 VDC) since 2016 for two 12 VDC fans, connected in serial for cooling the main PCB that have been working perfectly all the time and still do. Number one problem for the electronics is the "overheat" that is killing the semiconductors, number two problem -is the humidity! Those two fans have cooled the whole upper part of the main board. There is no brownish colored stepper driver circuits and the board look as new after seven year.. So, go and use it, this is your best ensourement! Just use it! This is a direct 24 VDC when power switch is turned on. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @kyone, Welcome in here. We will need a lot more information from you, so if you load your model into Cura, -then go to file (upper left phane) and select "save project" in order to share this file in here. This file will contain all the info needed for us in order to help you, then someone sure show up with an answer. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TherealRichCranium, this become very strange, however, I'll show you one of my project files that's containing a plastic bearing (nylon) for our dishwasher. This part is made for the upper spin propeller, spraying hot water at 70 deg. Celsius. Using Teluman3D Bridge nylon. I'm using an Ultimaker 2 Ex+ printer for this project. This project file contain my printer type containing all of my last setting (including a picture of the object) for this edition of the object (I've made several to get it right). In here you can just edit any way you want, as change the printer to your type etc. I'll think you have a windows op system, -not Apple ios. ? Have a look at this project file and see if there is any similarity. Here is the file, (.3mf is highly compressed as standard): UM2E_Nylon_ABS_Last_Ver.3mf I'm just wonder. Edit: Forgot how to see what file Cura is working with. Go to "Open File" menu, top leftmost menu, then select "open file(s)" and now press "all Supported files" then you'll see all the file types you can open. Torgeir

Hi @TherealRichCranium, Aha., you're using to save your objects/models as a project, -then I understand -sorry. A project file end with the extension 3mf, this file contain all info about your model, I'm using this format myself .. So, I think Cura do not know where on the hard disk all of your "nnn-n.3mf" project files are located, -so do a search like "*.3mf" on the disk to find the area with the project files you have. I'll think this is the problem, should have been thinking about this before. Torgeir

Hi @TherealRichCranium, well, the only thing I can think about is that the source file is located in the same directory as where the gcode files are stored, or the source files is in the file path when you open a file -and stl is default. This may look as you open the gcode file, but actually open the stl file, in this case you can of course have both "Prepare and Preview" available and sure here you can edit. My best guess. Edit: Are you sure that you configured Cura to read gcode files, when you installed the new Cura? Torgeir

Hi @TherealRichCranium, welcome in here. Cura cannot be used to modify/edit a gcode file. If you need to change anything you have to use the source file and make another gcode file of your print object. You can just view the model's gcode file in order to see how the object look like. Normally you choose the type of files you want Cura to handle, this is done during installation of Cura. Here is the start of your attached file: -------------------------------------------- ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:4394 ;Filament used: 2.48502m ;Layer height: 0.2 ;MINX:89.616 ;MINY:89.593 ;MINZ:0.2 ;MAXX:130.432 ;MAXY:130.412 ;MAXZ:43 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1 M140 S47 M105 M190 S47 M104 S215 M105 M109 S215 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-7.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:215 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F6000 X95.823 Y95.335 Z0.2 -------------------------------------------- I can see you're using Cura 4.13.1 and have an Ender 3 printer. I could open this file in Cura 4.13.1 no problem at all. Am I'm missing something here? Edit: Here is a picture of your model in Cura 4.13.1 showing your model. Giving same message as you see. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dadkitess, Sorry for your mishaps with this object. About the last question, I'll think the main problem is that the nozzle still extrude filament, cause the TPLA "stringing" looks like a solid "0.8 mm" tread. The head might collide / or -hang up "some" with this treads, this might lead to missed step and offset at the actual axe/axis. This is my best guess. Normally I'll use 6.5 mm retraction for most filaments when using 0.4 mm nozzle, so I'll assume a 0.8 mm need "maybe" the double of this(?). But here I'm not sure of how much, -but sure more retraction. By increasing the width of the filament, there will be a little higher filament flow so this might increase stringing. I've tested the converted 3MF file as a stl (binary) file of your model, then tried to open it in Cura 4.13.1, but Cura reported that this object can't be sliced. The same happened when I loaded this file to Cura 5.2.1, but here model is grayed with yellow stripes. I've studied your model for sometime, and could not find any connection between the two "cabinet" and the "main" frame. So the new generation of Cura is less sensitive for model error, as you can widen the line and actually print the model. Maybe @MariMakes, have some advice/solution about your problem. Good luck Torgeir