Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr, I've been looking inside here for this spacer (fan duct), -but by some reason this posting is gone. However, I have the gcode file (for an UM2) printer. It's printed at 205 deg. C. with a 0.4 mm nozzle and using PLA. (Sliced with Cura 2.3.1 I'll think). The file is attached here: Edited: Wrong duct was previously uploaded here, sorry folks.. Here is the correct one: UM2E_Duct.gcode Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flashphilm, Here's two links how I've made a geared stepper for the filament feeder system. You'll also see several other improvements you can do if you like. Most of this work done in 2016 and still working great. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flashphilm, welcome in here. What you describe here is "kind of" typical if your feeder "stepper current" setting is to lo (normal current setting here is 1250 mA). When it come to a certain tension the stepper suddenly cannot hold the load anymore and when the stepper motor releases, the built-up pressure in the bowden pipe will act as a compression spring, so that the stepper motor loses many steps backwards. This means that you get low extrusion, because the pressure needed to provide the necessary extrusion suddenly disappears. (Based on the fact this have been an ongoing issue over the years in your UM2..) Another alternative are to slow down the printing speed, cause this will not ask for this "high" demand from the feeder. Build your own gear box for your UM2. A couple of very effective upgrade is to build a belt geared feeder using the same feeder unit (the black box) holding the knurled feeder wheel on it's own shaft 5 mm including a 32 (teeth) pulley that's also holding two bearings. On the new stepper motor(200 step/rev) requested you'll need a 16 (teeth) pulley (5 mm) plus a belt (same as the short one used on the X / Y stepper motors). The above is what I'm using. Of course, printed my own designed gearing house including a release handle to make ease feeding the filament past the feeder unit. There is also another feature I'm using, - turning the feeder unit upside down. This will make the feeder to grab the filament on the inside of the "looped filament" arriving from the roll. This will increase the efficiency of the feeder system due to less friction. Using this method, you will obtain a 2:1 gear that's double the torque with no need to change the firmware.. This is a very cheap way of improving your old UM2.. There is several other geared units around, so just find the one for you. However, you may also upgrade by using the "UM2+" versions new feeder - this require a change in your firmware. If you go for the full upgrade to "UM2+ Kit", including an Ollson block (w 4 different nozzles) plus a spacer to replace the compression spring, two new 6 mm axes and the new feeder. Ofc., this kit also including a new stepper motor for the feeding unit -and last the plus sign to mark your printer UM2+. Just my thoughts. The choice is all yours. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @asmunroh, Hi Åsmund. If you can share you "project" file, -someone may have a look at the model just to see if it's the file, -or your S3 is doing this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @evogas, Welcome in here. At first glance, -it looks like the preparation of the glass plate (heat bed) is not "cleaned"/prepared properly. Parts of the bed may have some issues that's reduced the fixture to the bed.. The bed cleaning is "super" important! But, -It's really difficult to say anything more about your problem, as no other info is given -but the picture. You should save this "object" as a project file, this will produce a file "-------.3mf" that's show your printer -plus setting (in Cura), filament type and the object you're printing. Sure post it here.. I'm sure someone will have a look at it. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Brad, I'll PT you the config file and the log file. Torgeir

Hi Brad, I've also tried with Win10 and Cura 4.13 (beta) plus Cura 4.12.1 with no success. Here's a screen dump of message. The two files "appear" to be the same, but haven't investigated.. so not that sure.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, this is interesting, I've looked into this for some time and can see this is a panel made for an air craft "simulator" or maybe an "experimental" aircraft? Those tiny letters should really need a 0.25 nozzle in order to print nicely.. But would not this letters be more easy to print if they are immersed in the panel? If you're using black filament for the panel you can add white paint into the letters and make them more visible. Also, you should try the last version of Cura (4.13 Beta), as it print this kind of object much better. This HUD panel is much easier to print than the "Audio -select" panel. As Greg "says", there is a little tuning to do, but look much better now, great progress. Way to go.. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @danz409, Well, this one do not fit you printer very well. You'll need a 24 V heater and this "thermistor" is not as accurate as the PT100 platinum thermistor. (This is the one used in UM2). The better choice would be to upgrade to "the Olsson block". You could use the same heater and temp sensor as on an standard UM2, well if the wires is not ruined.? And sure the firmware need to be changed for the E3d kit.. I bought this kit in Japan, just because it was cheap, -but I'll never going to install this on my UM2+. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @oskars, Not a problem at all 🙂.. I do not think your new fan mount create any problem here. What we're seeing here is "kind of" typical for a standard UM2 printing this model for "filament flow test". The problem might be a reduced diameter where the coupler meet the flange of the Olsson block, so if the torque is a little to hard -the pressure and "some" high temperature may lead to squeezing this critical part of the coupler. If you try to feed the filament by pushing it by hand, it should feed easily, if not check the coupler. Check the coupler passage and the nozzle/housing for "old" collected debris (by using atomic pull). The tension of the special steel nut, holding the nozzle and delivering cooling to the upper part of the extruder. Tip: (Put a little marker on this "special nut" and the base plate so you can check that the nut stay in place.) You also need to use copper paste (to improve the heat transfer) where this nut connect to the base plate of the aluminum "house" containing the cooling radiator. You've to screw this nut until you feel it just met the stop, then turn it a quarter of turn more (90 deg.). This is what I'm using, -sure I print regularly at +255 deg., C. There is a little spacer, that can be printed an installed to space up the aft cooling fan from the aluminum rib. This little "modification" really improve the flow through the radiator. Yes, I'm been using this from day one. Another thing you can do, is to install the black feeder the reverse way, yes turn it 180 deg. This will make your filament go the wrong way, but this can be corrected by swapping two off the wires at the stepper motor connector. This will move the grooved groove from the outside to the inside of the bent filament that runs through the bowden tube. The result of this is less friction, that's reduce the force needed to feed the filament. Since you did not upgrade the feeder unit, this might help to get it working again. That's a bit to do, -but will "normally" work.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir. Ps. I've been writing about all this before, I've to look around a bit.

Hi @oskars & @GregValiant, Well, thanks for the invitation.. 🙂 First, I would not use "PET" as -a first material to refer too after all this modifications. Just use the good (old) PLA as reference for testing in general.. You still have an UM2 that's upgraded, -but it's still not an UM2+ (as your feeder is still the original one)! So your E-step should NOT be changed, you should use 282, as you have not changed to the UM2+ "feeder". OK.? This is just my "briefly" thoughts. Thanks Torgeir

There's only one more thing to try and this is using the Arduino -doing a direct upload of a HEX file. Well, -as far as I can see.. Torgeir

Hi @GregValiant, I'll think you "somehow" hit the nail here, -as (most of) all those new printers want to use Cura as a slicer. With your first printer, fighting the problem of finding/selecting the right firmware -might be a though task to perform for people with their first 3D printer. Torgeir

You guys really tried, -but sometimes nothing work or seems to be right, -keep up the good work. All the best. Cheers Torgeir

Thanks for the feedback. Torgeir

Aha, just tough about the same idea, you'll only need the two temp sensors connected, the two connectors going to the display / controller and power input. The menu should come up asking you to start setting up your heat bed, hmm something like that.. Great, will be interesting to see what happen. edit: And the two safety straps. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @Massassi, You may try to use Arduino software to upload a HEX file (containing UM2+ firmware), if you know the Arduino "software". However, I'll think you should as your supplier for a new functional main board with proper UM2 firmware. Sure, can guide you -but this is something for you to consider as you bought this card from an Ultimaker dealer. Thanks Torgeir

Right you are, it's coasting. Did you ever try using:"Make overhang printable"? Also "adaptive layers", may improve overhang problem much. All in all, use Cura in analysis of the sliced project -before printing as it will save lots of time.. Torgeir

Hi @leedav11, Welcome in here! First, what version of Cura are you using? The first picture "may" show how Cura show lines when Combing is used, -I'll think. The two latter pictures, looking from underside show overhang that's made by a little high temperature.. As this part has an overhang close to the heat bed, it may be heated to much due to the extra radiation from the heat bed. If you turn off the heat bed and using "blue tape" to print on, this might be much better. Another way, reduce printing temp and increase the cooling fan flow may also help. This is just general things, but if you attach your project file, -there is all the information needed for a closer look. In here is lots of people that might have "your type of printer" having more insight around this "problem" using this printer. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Massassi, You have to use Cura and update the printer using a USB cable, the printer will "normally" connect to Cura and then you can do an upload. Here's two pictures (using latest version of Cura 4.12.1). Here is next menu after pressing "Manage Printers..." Hope this help. Good luck Torgeir

Thanks for the feedback. 👍 Torgeir.

I'll just comment your model, -as this model will be a real challenge for any 3D printer of our kind. So, question is: Is all those details needed for an authentic look? Or is those just made by some scanning and "automatic processing" software? I ask this as a "cleaner" model would be "kind of" easy to print, compared with the "authentic"(?) model you're trying to print. Also it would slice much faster in Cura (4.12.1). Thanks Torgeir

Hi @DaveCatt, try RS Components: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/?cm_mmc=World-Selector-Page-Online-ReferralMainWorldList_-CountryListrscomponents.com They are an Ultimaker dealer. Just check out them. Thanks Good Luck Torgeir

Oh., man, "Gunnar". I'll think, we've discussed this issue a while back. We just discussed this and you said there is no need for this relay, -only needed in the "wood" versions (for fire protection).. I'll hope this is the problem, -it will be an easy fix to do. 🙂 Thanks Cheers Torgeir

Hi @FancyboyGinswillington, I've come to think about a failure I got on my UM2E+. Got the same indication as you had in the beginning. In order to get the printer working, I had to re switch the power switch sometimes several times to have it working.. One day this was not possible, -just as you describe. Anyway, after some fault tracing I found that the 24 VDC power relay was not working. So first thing, check that this relay is delivering power to all stepper drivers and to the heaters. If this one fails, the failure you have will be the same. I'll think the power supply switching circuits is more or less the same in all PCB versions of UM2 series (except Connect). Maybe this could be your problem. Good luck. Torgeir Edit: Forgot your random question. I'm never afraid of this as I have installed two fans (2 * 12) VDC in series, which keep the PCB "cold". But you have a good point there .. 🙂