Torgeir

Hi @YenJiWai, To have a quick answer, -Just upload your project or stl file here and someone may help you. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @NTwoO, Not trying to hijack anything here.. By following treads there are things to learn for sure.. So in my mind, this is a very good question. I loaded your project into Cura and found a small object, so I thought this is inches but the object come together nicely as it should. So I exported your project file into Autocad Fusion 360, to have an idea of the size and that was (60*150*150)mm. (?) This was the whole rectangle horizontally divided in two. Just created one of the two half and then exported the object as "stl file" to Cura. Next step is to export it from Cura as: "Body1.stl" My intention by this, is to make a copy of this object and name it: Body2.stl When loading these two object in Cura, you may mark both object and load to Cura. Due to the size of the two object, on will drop to the build plate and the other is outside. If we assume the active nozzle 1 contain white PLA and nozzle 2 contain red PLA. Now mark the object (mouse arrow) on the build plate. When the object is selected it will be white and the position offset (if any) will show up in the window *) left side for X, Y and Z. Make sure that all, X, Y and Z are set to 0 (zero). ------------------------------------- A Note here: In the "old" Cura versions older than: 5.20 Beta: There is one check box "Lock Model" in the window *) In the newer Cura versions, including Cura 5.20 Beta: There is two check boxes "Lock Model" and "Drop Down Model" in the window *) For those previous versions you'll need to go to Cura "Menu" Preference and select Configure Cura. In this page you're inside General Settings, inside here you'll find checkbox "Automatically drop the model to the build plate". This checkbox has to be unchecked in order to avoid the model to drop to the build plate and will be a must to make this work! For the new versions you'll need to uncheck the checkbox "Drop Down Model" in the window *). Now we're ready for Body2, just mark it as previous, then left mouse button and select Nozzle2. While the Body2 is sill selected, set Z parameter in window *) to 30mm, then select X parameter to 0. This should move your Body2 precise above Body1 and both objects form your model with the two colors. Here are the two models, the mesh variant (model "glued") and the "manual" floating model variant. Both are saved as project files for UMS3. UMS3_interlockflat_mesh_variant.3mf UMS3_interlockflat_floating_variant.3mf Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, This is most interesting, a wing can be printed in many ways, you can draw it in a special way, as Tom Stranton did, so the model can be made completely in spiralized -or layer by layer as most model like this is made. In here, you'll find a some interesting things about LW-PLA and the selection of color for RC models made by thermoplastics. (Haven't been trying LW-PLA-HT). Heat from sun is "best" reflected by the white color (high gloss polished aluminium is the best reflector). Further, dull black is the lowest reflecting color. Most thermoplastic's have a heat capacity "quite" equal, but the different colors make the cooling effect (heat transfer) on your object much depending of the color! The easiest to print with is black -and the most difficult is plain white(need more cooling)! Here is the way Tom Stranton did it: His interesting way of using gyroscopic control his two engine VTOL model. This is "kind of" the aviation's answer to "SegWay".. https://hackaday.com/2022/08/22/optimising-a-rc-tilt-rotor-vtol/ This is his way of drawing a wing that's easier for the slicer to spiralize. Happy printing and flying! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Adam324, Just select "Skirt" instead of brim in your profile, then you have the brim under the support and skirt around your model. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, I found this very interesting as there's so many different ways to go with this. I'd just divided the wall width with 2, (1.05/2=0.525) mm and adjusted "Wall Line Width" from 0.4 mm to 0.52mm Then selected from "Normal" to "Surface" mode in the menu "Special Mode", that's all. Here's picture from Cura 5.31 It print each layer in one go, then next starting inside the cross with next layer. Here's picture from Cura 4.13.1 Same thing here, except from the starting point (the visible withe line). This is just another approach to solve just this issue. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler & @gr5, Just back from the hospital, so not that easy to answer. Thanks Gunnar for the kind of word. I'll hope I'd not confuse anyone, but Cura Arachne is just different than the old Cura slicing engine. This, as it adjust the width as it want to make the model dimensions right, so in between it adjust line -so gap is avoided as much as possible. This is my basic understanding of how it's done. I wanted an exact adjustment to see if this worked on the surface -and so it did. Today, I'd looked at all the setting in the profile @LJustusBuhler used and found that the "Thin Wall" was selected. I'll think this setting is preventing the Arachne engine to use it's expanding mode, so this might be something? As I've been experimenting a lot with this engine, I found that you have to be careful when changing profile esp to avoid under or over extrution, but did not think much about it due to testing with Cura 4.13.1(?) with same result. Thanks Torgeir Edit. The "thin Wall" setting is really meant to tell Cura Arachne; "Print with less width than current nozzle width". So sure; I'll know it. However, I've seen warnings about this to be turned off to make Cura Arachne work properly.? I would like to know about this "issue" from the Cura Team. But the "Thin Wall" setting is default in Cura and I've never checked this out, cause I did not see any problem.

Hi @Igi82m, If a filament is left without any protection as into sealed airtight bag or container, it might attract water directly from the air. This is very important if you're living at places with high humidity. Printing with filament containing water, will make extrusion uneven and sometimes pops out hot vapor damp that makes dents into your object during printing. Most plastic filaments attract water moisture, some more and some less. To remove water from filaments, people use food dehydrators to "refresh" dry out water from a roll of filament. Between 50-60 degrees Celsius for 8 - 10 hours. If you go higher than this temperature, the coil will start to degrade/deform. Also, if filaments are contaminated with water, it may oze and more as temperature increase. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler, I've been reading through all the posting about this printer. It's a printer been using for engineering and probably having a high number of printing hours? All started with a printer that could not feed filament well -and had a lot of grinding into the filament. So, you was the one selected to fix this.. Well, there is one thing that's "normally" never happen, -both of the cores do not feed at same time.. Yes, the front fan can make this happen and are the first one candidate, unless... Imaging you as an engineer have a project to be printed within a short time frame. Starting a print, discovering that the primary core do not feed properly. Then, what do you do. Yes reconfigure the print file "gcode" to use the right core.. The printer might be in business for some more time, but awaiting more problem to come, if not fixed. You mention the feeder stepper "motor", this is a last thing that's fail in a 3D printer, but the hubbed wheel is a candidate that's wearing "much" when printing abrasive filament. So check those wheels to be sharp in the filament track as well. Another issue are using same print core for a number of different filament. Here stuff from the various filament build up and become almost impossible to clean out. This is now a core with restricted flow.. If you have filaments preferred for some type of production, use cores that's only to be printed with this filament. Good Luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler, Well, this setting is found under the menu "Top/Bottom". You need to select "view all" in preference menu "Settings". This new Cura version have the possibility to adjust the nozzle width and the spacing as well. Here are a picture of it with your settings. Hope this help. Thanks Torgeir Edit: It is the skin expand setting I'm thinking about, but ofc. the feeder play an important role in here as you're much into already.

Hi @LJustusBuhler, After looking more closely to your print objects and the engineering setting used, it looks like the line space and line width is some too big for a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'll think if you reduce them from 1.2 mm to 0.8 mm will make your object look much better. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Framar, I'll think this function have been long gone.. Why not use a paint/photo - shop program and convert the picture to negative, then you can manipulate gray tone as you want. By the way, this is the negative of your example. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler, After sending this last question, I come to think this; what if you install two AA0.4 cores and then try to print the cube with core 1 (the right core). If it print ok there, the failure must be on the left side.. Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler, as, your printer have been fully "investigated", I'll think it's time to look at your Cura version the project file and related gcode file. The firmware in use on your printer might also be of interest here. If anything during printer investigation -haven't been overlooked, the above must play in here.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Igi82m, Almost forgot this, the nozzle is worn over time, it might be more like 0.6mm instead of 0.4mm. Pressure would not build up, but "no" sign of under extrution -but lots of stringing... Further, a little to high nozzle temp can have "same" effect ish.. But, you're going to change this part, so we'll see. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Igi82m, You never said what printer you have? I thought a direct drive feeder stepper is mounted close to the extruder, right? If so, 8mm retraction is by far too much.. Would not (2-3) mm be something a direct drive use? Typical retraction for an Ultimaker printer is 6.5 mm and thous printer's are using a bowden tube. If you just changed the printer "hot end" fan, -make sure this new fan deliver same CFM (cubic feet per minute or better) at same voltage as the original fan. -just my 5p. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @urza9814, Welcome in here. It seems that you have a configuration error in your printer's configuration and profiles.. I'll think you should delete your printer from Cura version 4.8, then install an Ultimaker printer say UM 3S as the only version installed. Cura version 4.9 have an issue with the configuration when merging from previous version, so chose 4.9.1 and now try installing this version. When installing the new version, do not let cura overwrite the old version, but select another directory for it to go as I.E. "Cura 4_9_1" Then you can still use your old working version of Cura. Here is Cura 4.9.1: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases?page=3 Now the default printer come up as UM 3S, then install your printer "Monoprice Select Mini V2 (E3D)" or the V1 version? I do not know for sure, but seems like the firmware upgrade made some issue, so do not upgrade firmware using Cura unless the user manual for your printer specify this. Normally there is very seldom any change in firmware. This way you should have a new "fresh" configuration/profile setting for your printer. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @marcosbombi, Aha Ok., this version of Cura have some issues you wont like for this kind of printing. So for UM2+, it is much better to use Cura 4.13.1 -as this is the best version for your use IMO. So LW-PLA, this filament can be printed from (200-280) degrees Celsius! -Not many filament cover this span.. The UM2 can only go up to +275 deg,. C, since the PTFE coupler starting to degrade over this temperature. I'll guess again, that you have cleaned the bed well with IPA better or equal to 90%? Lets assume this bed have been in use for some times and needing some additional treatment with dish soap and warm water (not hot). This treatment is even needed at some times on the glass bed. As Prusa have been using flexible (magnetic) bed for long time, they have a good and accurate advice for cleaning such a bed. Here: How to properly clean a flex-plate in general. Normally, -Isopropyl alcohol, -but when needed Dish soap and water. There is some good details, make sure to read this. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804 After this cleaning, do a standard manual bed leveling using a suited peace of A4 sheet (normally around 0.1 mm thick). Make sure the layer height is set to 0.2mm and so for the initial layers. Try to start with a little increased nozzle temperature, as it is kind of easy to glog the nozzle at low temperature. Also do not start printing direct on your object, much better to learn printing test objects as recommended by ColorFabb. Here: https://colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-lw-pla As there is two types of LW-PLA (-HT high temp version), here is to learn about this: https://colorfabb.com/nl/upgrading-from-lw-pla-to-lw-pla-ht-what-you-need-to-know Here's also a video from CNC Kitchen: The LW-PLA is known to string -much! Here is Tom Stratton, demonstrating how to make a wing using Fusion 360 that's make a section of a wing in one go. No retraction, no Z "lifting" needed and no stringing using LW-PLA: Here's more about how he made it: https://www.printables.com/model/261434-vase-mode-wing You've got something to try, so happy printing. Torgeir

Hi @marcosbombi, I cannot see how an Ultimaker 2+ print faster using Octoprint, -are you using it with a camera from a different place and saving time this way? Have you printed successfully with this printer before? The print bed is important cause it could be a flexible mat or glass surface.. You did not mention what version of Cura you're using, -well? I'll make some Guessing then, are you printing with light weight PLA? Based on this assumption, what temperature do you use for the first layers? We need some more information about your printer, as nozzle size used, type of filament -there is a lot of them with different properties etc. You tell us, if not, we cannot help much. Torgeir

Hi @marcosbombi, We can see that the filament does not stick to the bed. This bed seems not to be the original that's used for this printer, the original has a clear glass with a light gray aluminium heat mat under. Another issue is the Octoprint, in my opinion this make 3D printing much harder for a beginner as there is too much can go wrong. (And yes, I have a Raspberry pi 4 with Octoprint.) So, it's better to use the printers SD card, if possible? Why not use the firmware directly from the UM2? The bed adjustment is a very good way to know an important part of your printer. What version of Cura are you using? (I saw that you're going to print a glider wing.) Then; are you using Windows or Linux? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @GoguyT3d, Yes this is the way we do it, right the chamfer is to make it easier to install the filament. If you buy a new bowden tube, the chamfer end is marked with tape. Thanks Torgeir Don't know what happen here, I was replaying another post that's gone now.. 🤔

Hi Greg, right you are, -even ver 5.3.0 has this issue too. To me it seems like when it come to small details it become worse. So, if I'll like to try those new versions, I'll always use the monitor to inspect the sliced object before printing. However, version 4.13.1 is the version I'm using and find very good. I'm using one small test object, the "ctrl V 3D test" -and if a slicer can do this one well I'll know the UM2 print it fine. This test object demand using a 0.25 nozzle to be perfect, but can be "some" acceptable using a 0.40 nozzle. I'll just put up this picture for anyone (Greg knows this very well) to see how accurate Cura could be. Here's how it's look in the monitor using Cura 4.13.1: I'm using Cura standard profile, except for the "brim", as I'm using "skirt" The minimum distance between walls: 0.5/0.4/0.3/0.2/0.1mm. This test object can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 Torgeir

Hi @spumpsalive, Welcome in here. Can confirm your issue with Cura 5.3.1, -but work Ok with Cura 5.3.0 Beta - Xmas version.. So appear it's a "thing/bug" in between those two versions? Thanks Torgeir

Hi.. Just a little more info. I'll think the flanges version is the one in use now, this original P/N is the original from 2012. The flanged version do not go into the wall, but is prevented moving in further by the flange. Just my 5p. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there. The ball bearing UM2 P/N is: 688-2RS the dimension is od: 16 mm id 8 mm and width 5mm. Edit: The upper P/N is the vendors and Ultimakers P/N is: 1021-ZIP-A There is also another one with flanges P/N: 6887 Torgeir

Hi @Dantan, Here's a link to a tread in here that is a must to read before beginning any disassembling. There's a few thing to know about in order to avoid mishap. Good luck There is also some document for this printer. Torgeir