Torgeir

Hi @Dadkitess, the model consist of three different part's, the main construction plus two "sheet" metal boxes floating inside the main construction. It's "impossible" to print this model like this. The two sheet (?) metal boxes has to be printed separately, using 0.4 mm core (or maybe better with 0.25 mm). Also the main construction (frame) shall be printed separately, but there's some details become a problem for a 0.8 mm core. This model will keep newer versions of Cura "seems" to hang up, but working really. If this model is saved in stl format, -then loaded into Cura and you will see the problem. Edit: It looks like your support structure (main frame) is not watertight as well, -but it appears that the model can be printed like this on purpose as you're only interested in this as a presentation? Using such a large core (0.8 mm) is kind of experimental so print speed, temperature and retraction really need to be tuned. I'll see that you tested the "upper" part of the model as well, but I think the speed have to go down then you will need to reduce the temp. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Yo-NuTZ, This might be a risky modification, -however if you have skill and the right tools for replacing QFN (quad flat no pin) chips. It's possible. I would only change X,Y and Z (working only in legacy mode without the need of re programming). I would also use the existing PWM (pulse width modulated) signal used to control the stepper current. The low pass filter would need to be modified to match the TCM2208 voltage for the required (Ampere/torque). There's one filter for both the X/Y and another for the Z. Doing it this way, does not need any change in the firmware. Here is the videos of how to use legacy mode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TubpTMFkbVs And here is another video of how to program OTP (one time programing) mode and "dynamic control" mode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V8iEEAB15g Thanks Torgeir

Hi @servant74, this seems to be the Z-end stop switch. The first thing the printer will do is to synchronize the the bed position, this is done by lowering the bed until bed end stop is sensed, then the stepper motor stop and reverse to the actual start position. In your case, the motor step down, but only reach the hard stop and jump back a step, this will go over and over and makes a lot of noise! The end switch is probably pressed to far down (out of adjustment), so that the bed "stop screw" do not reach the actuator lip. Of course, a faulty switch or unconnected connector for this end switch is also a possible error. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @jsw, Something like this have been reported before and was caused by a partially blocked or faulty front fan. This will start heat too climb into the upper "cold" area of the print core, softening the filament and limiting the feed.. Tiny strings of filament tend to collect up into this fwd fan, so make sure that this fan is working. Also, -the wires that power this fan can break right where the front door is hinged and where the wires bend every time the door is opened. Just a small tip..

Hi @jvaria, TPU (95A) is prone to attract water moisture direct from the air, so when the filament is affected, oozing will increase due to expanding "water vapor pressure" when filament enter the hot extruder. However, this is discussed some in here and here is a link about this problem and suggestion to improvement: Good luck.

Hi @Jose77, Welcome in here. The model you're trying to print is sliced for another printer than the S5 (I'll see there are two doors). The object you are trying to print need to be sliced for the UM S5, to be accepted by the printer. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @JOMS, There is nothing wrong with your model. However, to be able to help you, you must save your model as a "Project" file and attach the file in here. This will show the settings you're using -then someone might be able to help you. Thanks Torgeir

I'll think @UlrichC-DE give a very good hint here, as the initial speed is 20 mm/sec and from the beginning of second layer it will start printing with 50 mm/sec! So now it is just another thing to check, the forward cooling fan, -cause this one can be blocked by stringing from the printing process. We have seen this fan completely blocked and partly blocked. So check this fan, sometimes difficult to see.. So if this one is blocked, the printing will go fine for some time, -until it stop printing completely. This is because the filament start softening in the upper part and simply become glued here. This is where we will find lots of grinding in the filament until there is no more to grab on for the feeder. But if this fan is partial blocked, you may be able to print for a while, but your feeder will struggle "some" with added load. However, if you need to print fast for some reason, we'll approaching fast "the limit" of feeding with this reduced cooling for the upper fan. This may also explain why the object is printed well when turned 90 degrees? 😉 Torgeir

Hi @Andrew_W, Just arrived home after some work at another place. Anyhow I've been looking into this problem as a hardware issue. This because (error) ER65 meaning there is "some" problem to obtain a proper flow through to the nozzle. This could be due to some partial blocking of the nozzle/extruder head, I.E as the flow sensor detect reduced speed VS actual speed command for the feeder, hence the ER65. As your model was printed without this error when turned 90 degrees, an explanation of this is also to be found.. Your print object do not have any error, -however here is some issues with profile settings that can develop such an error. As this object is printed "very" fast and with 0.3 mm height using a 0.4 mm nozzle, I'll think this is "quite" near the limit for these settings. According to the "Extra fast" profile with 0,3 mm height and 50 mm/sec and UM "Pearl White" PLA with an increased temperature of 10 deg C. increased from (200 to 210) deg C. There is three thing to check: First, is your nozzle (cartridge) absolutely clean? There is cleaning method for this. Two, reducing the printing speed will help! Three, increase the printing temperature, say 5 deg C., but not more than 220 deg C. may also help. I'll guess you have some time frames to overcome? So an explanation of how a 90 deg rotation of "print object" may help when having such a problem. Well, -this occur caused of increased y-axe movement that will reduce the friction a "little" in the bowden tube when the feeding pressure is high. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anew feature of the S printers "later firmware". Maybe also worth mentioning, if this problem occur, is the possibility to turn of the flow sensor with this problem. But there is some extra note about this you need to know, so read more about it here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239-ER65-Extrusion-problem-detected This (error) ER43 is also related to the "Flow sensor", see here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011575440 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hope this help Good luck Torgeir

If you save your printed object as a project file, it will be a lot easier as more information about setting and filament type is included in here here. Torgeir

Hi @Andrew_W Check according to this routine: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239-ER65-Extrusion-problem-detected Torgeir

Hi folks, Could not agree more about "strength" and 100 % infill. Also, if the object is compressed/loaded, -I'll always orient the force direction in the horizontal (X/Y) direction. I've been printing with nylon quite a lot and using 100 % infill and closed up printer to keep the temp on the "upper" bed temp are the way to go.. Z axis are always the weak point when loading our fff built objects. Interesting topics. Torgeir

Well, -if you use the PT100 directly on the Temp2 input of the 1.5.7 board, your indicated temperature will be way of the "correct value".. If you plan to use the 3 temp input on this board using PT100, you'll need to remove all 3 pull up resistors that are connected to each input line and you must use an E3D PT100 amplifier for each of the 3 inputs. This is the three 4.7 Kohm (4700 ohm) resistors to be removed, R23, R21 and R4. Then you can connect the E3D amplifiers output to each of Temp inputs on the 1.5.7 board. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dprntz All professional made PT100 connection wires are normally shielded with a copper braid. This copper braid is not connected to ANY of the two wires (or more wires) connected to the "precision platinum resistor". The amplifier used for this sensor is of differential type, so no ground to any of those two inputs! If there is a copper braid shielding, this wire is connected to ground to prevent unwanted electromagnetic disturbances to enter and give error to our temperature reading. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Brad and anyone else, "Long" time no seen.. Missed this one, -not very active in here those days. Anyway, I'll think most people do not know how good your "tools" is for 3 D printing, esp. when it come to tuning different types of filament for optimal result. Well, here it goes: As Cura 5.0 and 5.1 arrived, you were asked to uninstall the "Auto Tower" plugin found under the menu "Extension" in Cura and do a re installation of this plugin. As I'm using this plugin for tuning, I've never uninstalled Brads plugin cause it working perfect in Curas ver. 14.3.1 🙂 When installing this plugin, you have to install OpenSCAD a freeware. (I'm going to install the new version after some more testing of 5.1) ------------------------------------- OpenSCAD version 2021.01 Copyright (C) 2009-2021 The OpenSCAD Developers License This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or (at your option) any later version. Please visit this link for a copy of the license: GPL 2.0 ---------------------------------------- Here is some pictures of how it looks in Cura. Here is Cura 14.3.1 This is how "Auto Tower" looks under "Extension" tab. Here you'll see all possible "Auto Tower" types that's generated to the heat bed by "OpenSCAD". First one is "Fan Tower" and you can define a few parameters as well, (same for the other "Auto Towers"). First the "stl file" of the "Fan Tower" and ofc you van use preview as on any other model. Next is the "Retraction Towers", one for the distance and the other for the speed. Here is the "Retraction Tower" versus Speed. The last one I'll show is a PLA filament "Temperature Tower" ranging from (220 to 180) Deg. Celsius. Here you'll see there is a few of the most common filaments, but you can add and test out your favorite filament with great result. Hope this give some more interest in this tool. Thank you Brad. Torgeir

Hi @JSched, Never had any feedback on this one, so I do not know, however -using the "gcode file" and view it in Cura will actually give you a "real" picture of how your object will lock like when printed! PS. You need to tell Cura to be able to view the "gcode files" in the "setup settings" -when installing Cura. If you have not done this, you'll have to reinstall the version of Cura you're using and tell Cura that you want to be able to view "gcode files" as well. This is the important message in here. Happy 3D printing. Torgeir

Hi @elnadav12, Thanks for the feedback, great finding. I'm using the same firmware version (slightly modified for my printer). Uneven feeding can occurs due to too low current setting, Extruder current setting is 1250 mA. Good catch. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr. I'm glad you like it, but this is "the power" of this community -not me.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @elnadav12, Been away for some times.. Just wonder if your nozzle is just too big or maybe to much worn? As you've changed parts in order to any remove mechanical play(?). This lines might move slightly in and out due to worn out -or too big nozzle size. Have a look at this -I'll assuming you're using a standard size 0.4 mm. However, your nozzle tip looks "some" worn to me (see last picture). Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @oskars This is my first reply in here -after some time abroad.. You should go here: https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/platinum-smd-temperature-sensor-50-150-pt100-jumo-906125-pcs-1503-00/p/17668874 This is Elfa, a great electronic dealer in Scandinavia. You'll need a PT100 in SMD version 2 mm length. Just search/order for this type no: PCS 1.1302.1 This is a SMD PT100 with temp span from -50 to 150 deg C. Regards Torgeir

Hi Maarten, This is not the easiest thing to print for sure. 🙂 A spool of though PLA with no seal for some time -may have attracted water. When printing a filament with too much water, the flow can vary widely and can sometimes be spit out. Such filament need to be dried for some time, so I'll assume that a fresh roll of TPLA will do the trick.. I'm using a food drier to dry out water from such affected filament. I'm also storing filament rolls into a sealed storage box, containing silica bags and a blue tooth moisture meter. Have several boxes like this and working very well. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Flutelab, welcome in here! When I first look at the picture you added, I'd realized that Cura is set to an UM3 printer, -not an UM S3! So first, configure -select an UM S3 printer and things might look better.. Anyway, we do not know the object you're trying to print, so please save the "project file" and attache it here, then "someone" can have a look at your problem and give you some advice if needed. Just go to; "file", then select save "project" and attach it here. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @rowiac, I do not think this is the one, -but "maybe" a previous version of the version I've tried to upload.. However, the version of this UM2 duct I'd uploaded above was wrong, - so I've replaced it with the correct one that a "bit" more "aerodynamic" shaped.. PS. I've an UM2E, but this duct fit all versions. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi @kupfeli, Thanks for the reply, way to go. Regards Torgeir

Hi @kupfeli, The heat bed is a floating heater element, so no need to select polarity here. Also, the text mean input 24 V with current (needed minimum) 7.5 Amp. The PT100 (platinum sensor) is also a floating "resistor", -so neither this connection is polarity required. As you ordered all stuff for the bed, why not just change all? In the past, there was "some" problem with the connection of the high power wires to the bed. There was a few problem with the bed sensor PT100, that's not much of a problem anymore. But for folks using this "exotic" high temperature filament, things really put those components to the the edge and may expect some more error as shorter life span for those items is sure to be seen. Hope this help. Thanks Torgeir