Torgeir

Hi @kribbons, Welcome in here. Is this happening on both sides or? Next, can you feed the filament through when there's no core installed? Is this a new printer? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Geckoas, OK., Hmm, just a little over one minutes.. But quite long time for my PC so to say.. But this was a huge model, with a high number of triangles. Torgeir

Hi @melzein, This looks all right, did you change to a newer version of Cura recently? Maybe this tread give you some help in this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Geckoas, Your file demand a good PC, -well did slice it so here it is, just with your original settings. Btw. IMO, PETG is the right stuff for such a can.. Here's what it's look like, sliced with Cura 5.3.1. OK, here is the gcode file zipped as the original file is 125 Mb! AK_CU_Kanne_filament_change_tbd_1d7h.zip Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tkramer91 Welcome in here. I'll second @gr5 for sure, -if you're dependent of production making things that's matter, stay with the stable versions of Cura. But if you're experimenting and want/need possible functions coming with newer versions, test and be sure this is working for your needs, -but still keep your stable version of Cura. I've looked at your project and see that you need "extended" support, well -everywhere support. The later versions doe's not do this well, so you will benefit much using Cura 5.2.2 with your existing project file. This as this version of Cura produce a cleaner support and looks very nice. Just my 5p.. Happy printing. Thanks Torgeir Almost forgot, here is a picture of your model sliced with Cura 5.2.2

@mowijo Hi Morten I've assume that you'll know that the temperature is selected by the firmware (when a given type of filament are selected), or by directly adjusting the bed temp on the printer during printing. You may also test this directly by using the advanced menu found under the maintenance menu. If you can see the "heat bed" temperature, -should be close to the nozzle temperature then we may consider the temp sensing ok. So, if this is true we may suggest the heating of the bed "circuit" is to blame. What happen if you try to rice the temperature? Did you get any warning? Problems often found here is the contact block, either of the heat bed, or the contact block at the main PCB. The contact blocks, may look burnt (brownish), or simply have an open line on the heat bed. This latter happen due to expansion/retraction when the bed is heated/cooled due to use over times. As you now have the diagram, you'll sure find the circuit block. etc. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @mowijo, You find it here; http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?p=11752#p11757 Just roll a little down. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Karbonox, Welcome in here. You may just select "Print Thin Walls" found under "Walls" in "Print Settings". Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Turtlestein, Welcome in here. The hat is not joined to the I and it is also leaky (not watertight). Your project can only be opened as a project, I.E with your printer. But if you select "surface mode" it will be opened with other printers! If you use Cura 14.13.1 and make some more selections in the "Mesh Settings" as here, you will see the most of your hat. The "funny" thing is that, at some other settings you can see the missing part of your hat but not this part grayed out. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @njsokalski, I'll don't think that Cura handle *bin files, as that's typically later AVR stuff, -but I'm not absolutely sure. However, -would it not be easier to install this "FIRMWARE" file into the SD or micro SD card and upload it direct from here? Arduino have the possibilities to do this if you know this software. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Asceda, Welcome in here. I'll think this feature only work with the S models of Ultimaker. But I'm not all that sure.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dantan, If the filament is not removed, you cannot remove the core. You'll need to heat the core and then remove the filament..

Hi @Dantan, Have a look here: Ultimaker Print cores and compatibility https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337922171 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @kinginnovator, I'll see you're using Cura 5.3.1, the "new" Arachne engine. Have you ever tried the old slicer like Cura 4.13.1? This is the last stable version of the old Cura as far as I know (well it's a version 4.13.2 enterprise version). The old version is more predictable for various reasons. There are fewer small corrections/movements that can benefit your printer. In your printer definition setting there is only one 3mm filament, I assume you fix all this in the firmware. You are using 900mm for X/Y, so how many steps/mm? Of course, since the Z height is 1000mm, how many steps/mm here? It's a bit hard to understand your problem without these numbers. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @kinginnovator As I'm looking into your printer, the extruder has a double feeder a'la Bondtech with only one stepper driving both feeders right above the extruder, right? Further the cold side of the upper part of the extruder is of water/liquid type. Then we'll see the two "heaters" connected to each side of the Y connector supplying the nozzle. This is a "huge" printer based on Ultimaker gantries, -so I wonder what kind of steppers are you using here? Also, -what kind of main board etc.? Edit; This is a really nice way to change / improve things the way you want! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @kinginnovator, Sure interesting, -but first question; what kind of the Ultimaker's models was your "template"??? This will be a good hint of where to go. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ender3max, Do not use the new arachne slicer for this model, -use Cura 4.13.1 and enjoy! Thanks Torgeir

This is indeed a good observation, -also the specs from Ultimaker state this fact as an UM S5 and S3 have: ------------------------------------------------------------------ Layer resolution 0.25 mm nozzle: 150 - 60 micron 0.4 mm nozzle: 200 - 20 micron 0.8 mm nozzle: 600 - 20 micron And XYZ accuracy 6.9, 6.9, 2.5 micron ------------------------------------------------------------------ I've digged a little into this and think that the flatness around the nozzle opening is just a little to big cause filament hang a little on this flat part. But think this is done to make the nozzle last longer, -but relative resolution is better. Just my 5 p. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @rickyg32, This might happen with the kind of "special" models we try to print, this as the slicer "cannot" fill the holes that's appear at every crossing lines/cut on the model. We may have a more correct "assuming" if you share your model in here as a project file. If this is the problem, you may try to adjust the layer height and there will be an improvement on this issue. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi @TonyCOD Are you using Cura Arachne? For this kind of printing, -use Cura 4.13.1 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD What printer are you using? You can use the printer you want, accepting the settings I'm using on the Ultimaker. Then fine tune, for filament nozzle etc.. If needed. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD, Have a look at those two pictures, without and with bottom. Upload this below project file and open the original project with an UM2E+ printer, then you see all the "important" settings. First my pictures: Here's the next: The project file. Check this out and you'll see all the settings. UM2E_Test_Step_Clean_h_0_15.3mf (Note; My UM2E+ have a double density of a standard UM2+/E+ -not to be printed with a standard printer) This note might not be a problem since this is not a gcode generated by me. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TonyCOD, Yes, ColorFabb LW-PLA is just the filament I'm using for wing foils.. The the last file you put in here, the step file, is converted to stl and can be printed by Cura in spiralize mode. You need just to put in the right parameters for spiralize without bottom, or with bottom ofc. no top. This is with Cura 4.13.1. It is here:UM2E_Test_Step_Clean_h_0_1.stl Have a look into this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Hi @djorn, This was an interesting test. Hmm, this was the impossible one. The problem is the tiny "beams" that's kind of glued to the nozzle and bent when nozzle try to get red of this tiny thing.. But I'll think this was a god one. Is this a kind of filter or? If this is a must to be printed, maybe the fluid printer (SLA) is a what you'll need. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LJustusBuhler Whenever you're ready. Torgeir