Jump to content

StephanK

Member
  • Content Count

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

StephanK last won the day on November 7 2018

StephanK had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

28 Excellent

1 Follower

About StephanK

  • Birthday 10/16/1973

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    DE

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ich bin dann wohl eher in der "Ich bin von Prusa enttäuscht" Fraktion. Ich hab nen MK2 und nen MK3, einen UM2+ und einen UM3. Den MK2 hab ich mir so umgebaut, dass es eigentlich kein Prusa mehr ist, erst seit dem ist er zuverlässig. Der MK3 steht noch original da, aber kann mit den Ultis nicht mithalten. Weder was die Zuverlässigkeit angeht, noch die Druckqualität. Von Joe Prusas mehr als befremdlicher Geschäftspolitik will ich gar nicht erst anfangen. Wenn man mal 10 Monate auf bereits bezahlte Drucker gewartet hat, oder immer noch auf Druckplatten wartet, dann ist irgendwann einfach der Spass vorbei. Selbst auf als "Lagernd" gelistete Ersatzteile musste ich wochenlang warten, das kann ich mir bei Termindruck nicht leisten. So Sachen, wie vollmundig versprochene Features, die nie geliefert wurden darf man ja im Vergleich UltiMaker vs. Prusa nicht werten - da haben sich beide nicht mit Ruhm bekleckert. Der MK3 ist ein toller Basteldrucker für den Hobbybereich, aber im Semi Pro Einsatz nicht empfehlenswert, und absolut nicht wartungsfreundlich. Am UM2+ war jahrelang *nichts*, den UM3 hab ich noch nicht so lang, da war aber auch nie was bisher. An den Prusas ist ständig irgendwas. Wenn ich was dringend gedruckt haben will, gehts an einen der Ultis.
  2. Kann mich Smithy nur anschliessen. Problem ist meist der Düsenabstand. Das kann zu weit weg sein oder zu nah dran. Darum auch die Frage nach einen Foto von der ersten Schicht. Und mach das Bett nicht zu heiss. Original Buildtak funktioniert zur Not auch ohne Bettheizung mit PLA, wenn der Abstand stimmt. 50°C sollte bei Buildtak reichen. Nimm ~210°C an der Düse für die erste Schicht, Lüfter aus für die erste Schicht und Speed erste Schicht <= 20mm/s. Und mach ein Foto.
  3. Hast Du das Problem noch mit dem EcoPLA? Wenn ja, schreib mal welcher Drucker, machn Foto vom fehlgeschlagenen Druck, also von dem das was aufm Bett haften bleibt (oder auch nicht). Das Eco PLA sollte durchaus in Griff zu bekommen sein, ich hab da schon paar Rollen verdruckt von.
  4. Zerspaner_Gerd hats oben schonmal vorgeschlagen, häng ihn mal per USB an den PC, Schieb den Kopf mal in die Mitte, und dann versuch mal, ob Du mit der Freeware Pronterface (pronterface.com) die Achsen steuern kannst. Ich bin gespannt auf X, ob die geht. Und wenn er dann schon mal da am USB hängt, guck mal ob er mit M119 den Status der EndStops anzeigt. Hab kein UM2, aber versuch wärs wert. Wenn ja, dann drückste und hälst den Endstop und machst nochmal M119.
  5. Also bei mir hatte ich das Display "Hüpfen" am UM2+ schon vor dem Wechsel auf Tinker. 100% sicher, weil ich noch gedacht habe, ob das mit Tinker eventuell besser wird 😉
  6. Hmm.. bugs have been fixed according to the changelog ( https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/ ), unfortunately not the ones I was having problems with. Since the change log only lists some of these bugfixes, who knows. Supposedly 100+ more fixes went in, which ones is anyone's guess. The 3-4 bugs / reproducible issues i've had are still in. The disappointment stems from the fact that the "main features" of this update, as announced here: https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/version-4-1-0/ are imho a bit of a let down. Support for 6 extruders, better rafts. Ok, but not sure if that's what the majority of the user base has been waiting for. More accurate print time estimates as the 2nd featured item? Besides the fact, that it'll still be off...I just can't get excited about. Problems: well, besides the new dynamic prime towers either not rendering properly or not working at all, and not having the first clue where to specify the dimensions of the extruder to actually use the new "collision detection in sequential printing" they added, no, no new problems so far. But then again, they didnt add much to begin with.. Who said 2 out of 3 aint bad? ? In short: too little too late. Looks to me they're unwilling or unable to maintain meaningful development. Cura and Slic3r already surpassed S3D in features, I am finding less and less reasons to tell my folks: it is still worth spending $150 on simplify3d. Heck, after using S3D exclusively since 2016, I am now catching myself using Cura 3.4.1 <g> more and more. Because, you know, it has some really useful features that S3D doesn't have and probably never will.
  7. I installed it.. And honestly, I shouldn't have bothered. What a disappointment.
  8. Thanks.. I guess these are somewhat ( <g> ) valid reasons. I don't necessarily agree with the decision by the profile team, I would have wished for "print quality" over "print speed" or "less support questions" being the primary focus. (Sorry if this sounds harsh, its not meant as such) To me "Recommended" Settings means - or should mean imho - that I can tell an inexperienced employee to to just hit print in "Recommend" and end up with a decent print without having to go to Cura University first to learn what all of the 500+ settings in Custom mode mean.. Hence, if 2 materials are used, we get a prime tower that is thick enough to not break (as mine just did with my first CPE & Breakaway print - trial and error with any new material & machine, no biggie). My recommended settings would lean to overdo it to make triple sure the print works well - and sell more filament ? Cura is getting a nightmare to train folks in - or to support them if questions arise, so I hoped for Recommended to be the easy way out. NFC reads the tag and recommended switches to "guaranteed" (as much as possible) working settings for this combination. While the experienced folks use Custom and disable the prime tower if they think they can get away with it. I shall have to create a bunch my own profiles then. Dratts, but I think I'll manage ?
  9. I just ran into the same thing, first print using CPE on my UM3 and my first layer looks the same. Two ways to go about this usually: a) increase the nozzle <> bed distance, but so far I haven't found a good way to do so on the UM3 with active levelling turned on. (ActiveLeveling is setting the nozzle too close consistently imo) b) reduce flow% - there's even a initial layer flow% now that should work well to fix this. (just about getting ready to try it here) Your blue tape is probably not helping here, either, as it further reduced the gap between the nozzle (or was it on there during Active leveling?). May I ask why the tape? Bit of gluestick or magigoo or printafix works really well for adhesion..
  10. Hi there, is there a reason why all the default profiles for the UM3 have the prime tower turned off? Looks like an oversight in the default template to me - or am I missing something? Basically renders Recommended Settings (I call it Easy Mode) useless for any Dual Extrusion attempts, be it DualColor or the usual PLA&PVA.. Kinda looks to me like "Recommended" is not useable for anything but Single Extrusion, ist that a fair verdict? Thanks, Stephan
  11. Just for the records.. my brandnew UM3 is doing the same thing: after active leveling, the bed ist just ever so slightly too close. No biggie, but i found it worth noting. Ideally, i guess, a Z-offset setting in the printers menu would be nice..
  12. I use my Polybox for PVA and Nylon. It works as advertised. If it is worth the hefty pricetag when you can build your own with a plastic box from any household goods store at a fraction of the costs.. well.. I am lazy ;-)
  13. Yeah, did factory resets a few time meanwhile. I'll turn geek mode off and see if it happens again.. But i gotta say, despite the glitch, i do not really want to miss Tinker anymore. I'll keep an eye out and will report back with any new findings. Oh, another tidbit: my leds are flickering noticeable while both heaters are heating. Power flucuations <> memory corruption, is there a possible connection there? One thing i did notice with the change filament feature is this: If you wait too long to confirm that the new filament is now properly coming out of the nozzle, it will eventually start the change filament procedure from step one, If you misclick now it'll happily try fast advancing the filament. Which at this point is already right there at the nozzle.. It's not pretty when that happens ;-)
  14. @gr5 This is a long story. First of all. I am using an UltiMaker 2+, fitted with a Bontech DDG (the one that looks like the original UM2+ feeder just black). It is connected via USB to a RasPi3 running Repetier Server. I control all my prints that way. This setup has been working absolutely flawless for the ~2 years i had the UM2+ now. Not a single problem. The printer is running or on standby 24x7 x364. My troubles started after i flashed current tinker 17.10.01 in order to get the Bondtech working (changed E-Steps and motor direction). After that i noticed that occasionally after the end of successful a print, starting the next subsequent print, my printer would print in mid air. Looking at the Z position in the display, it seemed as if the printer thought total z axis had shrunk by said roughly 1cm (it varies a bit). So it somehow lost track of the Z-axis and came in about a cm sort. I tried in vain to get this bug to reproduce, for days, i was sitting there smartphone in hand recording the start of each trying to catch it on film, as the display shows it right then there if it is going to fail. I gave up after a few days, couple of days later is when it struck again :-) TinkerGnome had asked me (here - original post in German) to keep an eye on Z-offset via terminal, but never saw anything unusual and of course, the problem never happened while i monitored it. The reason why i mention all this is because i think they're ralated. In both cases it feels like the "printer" loses track of the proper position. I cannot for the life of me git it to repeat reliably. The z-axis problem happened 3-4 times within a couple of weeks, hasn't happened since. Instead, now i get this homing bug with the garbled position for Y started occuring. Again no clear pattern. It does not happen after a power on/power off cycle, it does happen occasionally after the end of a successful print Start Code: G28 ; home all axes G1 X5 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z10 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back End code: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M106 S0; turn off fan M84 ; disable motors No other scripts are active. Atm, the printer works fine. Version readout attached. I'd be most happy to run some tests if there's anything you can think of that might help :-)
  15. Ich hab 17.10.01 drauf. Mit der original UltiMaker Firmware nie ein Problem gehabt. Eventuell gehe ich doch nochmal zurück auf 16.03.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!