kmanstudios

I am not sure I understand the question, but I will take a stab at it. The project file will save every aspect of the material all the way through the individual settings. This is an example of how I name my files for ease of recognition. UMS5_Hulk_PLA_PVA-04mmNoz_006Lay.3mf This is the printer it is formatted for, then the name of the print, then the materials by nozzle and, in order of extruder, size of nozzle in use and finally the layer thickness. I also save the project files in folders that are labeled by material. Does this help?

I just use project files. They have never given me any issues and I have a series of settings that can be associated with the type of objects printed.

For what? Made of what? Printed on what? Inquiring minds need to know!! :)

Dryer definitely :)

On both my Dehydrator and PolyBox have a bowden tube that is inserted into the 'dry box' part that is very helpful when feeding from the drying mechanism to the feeder. This would be 'locked down' on that end. But, I originally tried to lock the other end to the feeder, but found everything (for me) worked better to just let the free end of the bowden tube be loose from the feeder. This is what I meant about being mobile...when the feeder pulls the filament, it is pulled up tight to the feeder. But when it retracts. the bowden tube is let 'loose' from the feeder since nothing is holding it. I found that it reduced the friction enough to make things work smoother. It is just not a lot of slack/gap between the end of the bowden tube and the feeder...maybe a centimeter if I remember correctly.

This should be followed by realizing that all that additional friction with a non-mobile feeder tube will be created. If the bowden tube has the ability to move a tiny bit with the filament helps to overcome that when the printer does retractions, printhead pause retraction whilst the other nozzle is printing (assuming you have a dual head setup). There are friction issues that can be created in just the feeder to printhead. Depending on the setup (distance from drying gizmo to bottom of feeder) can actually double the friciton issues with all that other tubing. The bowden tube is anchored to the drybox/dehydrator/drying gizmo and only has a very small amount of filament exposed at any time on the feeder end of the tube. I think that is why they show to have the humidity reading at 11% humidity in the box, so that it will not really be affected whilst being fed. YMMV in various areas where the humidity is just really horrible if not in a climate controlled space. Too wordy?

I can see where I need to improve so much. This is the second drawing I did. I still cannot sculpt in 3D. One of the reasons I am using this style to draw in is that it requires a lot of planning for positive and negative space as well as eye hand control. The planning is what makes it take so long at this time. I can only work so long before I have to stop. It is frustrating. This piece took a week to draw. It is not large and a year ago I could have done this drawing in a day. In other things, if I can fine one paint brush I misplaced, I will be finishing up my "Duck Vader." It is almost done as well. Sigh...so much to work on.......

Thanks :) The eye hand coordination is improving. But I am still very slow. Things that would have taken, say an hour, now takes many hours. Then, there is the 'planning' aspect of things. The saving grace on this piece was that it is basically 'colour by numbers' by way of 'divided areas of colour'. And, it took a lot of painting over and over. Even just following rules of tone and complimentary colours was very, very tedious whereas it used to just flow from the brain to the hands. In the effort to increase some of these capabilities and to get more on where I used to be I have been doing pen an ink drawings in the style of Franklin Booth. But, coming from you, I take this as a great compliment. And, I look forward to seeing your painted prints. :)

There is an exception to the import of a 3D file. You can open images in Cura to create height maps and slice that geometry.

Hope so :)

I would be curious to see what the spool bay dimensions are and if 3rd party spools will fit nicely. I guess, basically, spool width capability.

Thank you :) Took me long enough LOL But, it has done a lot of good to work on it to help recover from the issues I had after surgery. I am getting my eye hand coordination back and a bit more clarity in thought and memory. :)

And they shall be known as..... THE RESISTANCE!!! 😆

For full transparency, these are the objects I downloaded: Crow's skull Ram's Skull And the objects I downloaded and heavily modded: Demon skulls were just basic skull models Skeletons (Where the skulls came from actually) that were modded to demon skeletons Edit: I forgot to add these image references. For the shield, I used black and white art from the magazines in homage to the artists without trying to mimic them. However, the Uncle Creepy version I made in 3D was greatly influenced by Bernie Wrightson. Everything else I made.

Thank you :)

Uncle Creepy...that is 😁 Edit: I forgot one piece that probably nobody but me would miss, but it is really done now: Actually, the glue set up nicely and this is the finished project. I may do some odd touch-ups if I see anything really amiss. That thing is about 18.5 inches from bottom of base to top of display case. The lighting is a bit more natural this go around. And all buttoned up in the display case.

The Base is all glued now. All I am waiting for now is for the final gluing of Uncle Creepy to dry so I can put him on the stool and then glue that to the base.

🖖

UM printers can indeed print that clean. But I was looking at the detail in the print job that made me think of the inkjet 3D printers. That tattoo on the bicep is unbelievably clean. It can be done, but it takes a lot of work to get something like that done by hand.

I really was just asking a far reaching question. I was thinking of the downloaders since I make 99% of my stuff. Yes, I will download some things for modification, but not enough to request something like this. So, I would guess the one that is easiest to implement. 😊

Just out of curiousity, will it eventually include (or be separate from this plugin by venue) other model sources such as Youmagine, MyMiniFactory and others? Other than that, this is one of those ideas that is sooooo simple that nobody thought of it before. 😂 Way cool implementation and kudos! 😃

As @gr5 says, there are two parts to this: Creation of model Print of model The printing of a model as you show, if I remember correctly, can only be done with a very expensive ink jet 3D printer. Info on tech There are machines that are coming out that will make it cheaper than before, but, to get the resolution you see in your example requires a not so affordable/very high resolution printer.

This looks like classic 'non-manifold' or 'non-watertight' issues. It looks as though Cura is trying to close up edges it thinks are proper connections. I agree that the .3mf file is needed, but also the model as it is as well be to be definitive about the issue. This would be the .stl or .obj type and not a cura file. Also, did you download or did you make it? What program?

This now has almost all the stuff glued into the Desk. The pieces not glued are not present in the image. The wall also has the shield, ram's skull, manacles and antique style bone saws affixed. Now that these pieces are put together, I can see where to do some colour work to make these things 'pop' out a bit better without becoming a distraction. The desk is not glued down to the floor as I still have a bit more floor work to do and it will just be easier. I also will not have to worry about breaking things when I touch up the previously mentioned areas.