kmanstudios

I took a look at the vile and it is really a mess. I could not fix it without basically rebuilding the file from scratch. There are voids with really hyperthin walls and it is also non-manifold in a lot of areas (the places that show up as problems) a lot of open edges and non-welded vertices that cannot connect.

For lack of a better term, your support seems to be very ratty all around. Have you made a really good cold pull to make sure your nozzle is not clogging up a bit? It looks as if all your support stopped at the same layer and a lot of missing-ish places along the support. What slicer version are you using and I am assuming that is an Ultimaker printer?

HAH! Beat me to it! LOL I type so slow these days.....and, @gr5 has a much more thorough answer 🙂

Ummm...that was a long time ago. I have not printed with it since and cannot remember anything about printing it. As for the 3mm listing, if I am correct, a lot of materials that say 3mm are actually 2.85mm.

There is also the issue of contamination in the printing process. It may be food safe going into the printer, but it may not be food safe after the nozzle.

What paint did you use?

That is very nice. Good job!!

Very nice :)

I am not sure I understand the question, but I will take a stab at it. The project file will save every aspect of the material all the way through the individual settings. This is an example of how I name my files for ease of recognition. UMS5_Hulk_PLA_PVA-04mmNoz_006Lay.3mf This is the printer it is formatted for, then the name of the print, then the materials by nozzle and, in order of extruder, size of nozzle in use and finally the layer thickness. I also save the project files in folders that are labeled by material. Does thi

I just use project files. They have never given me any issues and I have a series of settings that can be associated with the type of objects printed.

For what? Made of what? Printed on what? Inquiring minds need to know!! :)

Dryer definitely :)

On both my Dehydrator and PolyBox have a bowden tube that is inserted into the 'dry box' part that is very helpful when feeding from the drying mechanism to the feeder. This would be 'locked down' on that end. But, I originally tried to lock the other end to the feeder, but found everything (for me) worked better to just let the free end of the bowden tube be loose from the feeder. This is what I meant about being mobile...when the feeder pulls the filament, it is pulled up tight to the feeder. But when it retracts. the bowden tube is let 'loose' from the feeder since nothing is ho

This should be followed by realizing that all that additional friction with a non-mobile feeder tube will be created. If the bowden tube has the ability to move a tiny bit with the filament helps to overcome that when the printer does retractions, printhead pause retraction whilst the other nozzle is printing (assuming you have a dual head setup). There are friction issues that can be created in just the feeder to printhead. Depending on the setup (distance from drying gizmo to bottom of feeder) can actually double the friciton issues with all that other tubing. The bowden tube is

I can see where I need to improve so much. This is the second drawing I did. I still cannot sculpt in 3D. One of the reasons I am using this style to draw in is that it requires a lot of planning for positive and negative space as well as eye hand control. The planning is what makes it take so long at this time. I can only work so long before I have to stop. It is frustrating. This piece took a week to draw. It is not large and a year ago I could have done this drawing in a day. In other things, if I can fine one paint brush I misplaced, I will be finishing up my "Duck Vader." It is almost don

Thanks :) The eye hand coordination is improving. But I am still very slow. Things that would have taken, say an hour, now takes many hours. Then, there is the 'planning' aspect of things. The saving grace on this piece was that it is basically 'colour by numbers' by way of 'divided areas of colour'. And, it took a lot of painting over and over. Even just following rules of tone and complimentary colours was very, very tedious whereas it used to just flow from the brain to the hands. In the effort to increase some of these capabilities and to

There is an exception to the import of a 3D file. You can open images in Cura to create height maps and slice that geometry.

Hope so :)

I would be curious to see what the spool bay dimensions are and if 3rd party spools will fit nicely. I guess, basically, spool width capability.

Thank you :) Took me long enough LOL But, it has done a lot of good to work on it to help recover from the issues I had after surgery. I am getting my eye hand coordination back and a bit more clarity in thought and memory. :)

And they shall be known as..... THE RESISTANCE!!! 😆

For full transparency, these are the objects I downloaded: Crow's skull Ram's Skull And the objects I downloaded and heavily modded: Demon skulls were just basic skull models Skeletons (Where the skulls came from actually) that were modded to demon skeletons Edit: I forgot to add these image references. For the shield, I used black and white art from the magazines in homage to the artists without trying to mimic them. However, the Uncle Creepy version I made in 3D was greatly influenced by Bernie Wrightson. Everything else I made.

Thank you :)

Uncle Creepy...that is 😁 Edit: I forgot one piece that probably nobody but me would miss, but it is really done now: Actually, the glue set up nicely and this is the finished project. I may do some odd touch-ups if I see anything really amiss. That thing is about 18.5 inches from bottom of base to top of display case. The lighting is a bit more natural this go around. And all buttoned up in the display case.