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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more co
  2. I would go with this. I would let the print and plate thoroughly cool before submerging in water.
  3. Heat the nozzle using the 'set temperature' setting. This will melt the material close to the head and soften the other material making it easier to get out with needle-nose pliers. You may have to also hit it with a heat gun too. This happened to me until I found out how to really get the print to stick to the buildplate. If the model cuts loose it will get dragged around creating a plug against the nozzle leaving the new material nowhere to go but up into the printhead.
  4. Soooo, why dontcha tells us how you really feel 😂 In all seriousness, it is very easy to work in imperial and send out as metric. Just takes a bit of awareness so that there is not missed step. In one of my software packages (3DS Max) I can use, say, metric, and type measurements in imperial and the conversion is done for me to the proper units. I also work a lot in metric. Depends on the needs of project I am working on. If I am doing architecture work, I work in feet and inches and then convert the scale to a printer size.. When I am just squirreling about
  5. I have read about more than one error. Then, there is the issue of bricked machines, which is a total collection of errors. And, there is the thing about trying to not have this happen again. And, though, limited in programming experience, nothing is ever that easy in practice.
  6. Intersecting objects are just not good all the way around. While the tip you provide is good, robust, modeling practices are the best thing to work with.
  7. I use 3D Coat. But even Blender does voxels, and it is free. I just do not know the fidelity or speed of Blender.
  8. Sooooo, you are asking for more grief......😂
  9. If I am correct, the flow sensor does not kick in until a layer or two has been printed. Also, if retracted too far, it will be feeding, just not at the nozzle yet.
  10. Not really on setting this completely right. I did start to use a newer USB drive as well as did a switching callibration. While it did improve greatly, it is not completely gone away. But, instead of several times a day, it has only done that once since I mnade those adjustments.
  11. Have you checked with your resellers? They are the ones that are supposed to be your main point of contact for service and warranty issues.
  12. Both models are essentially 2D shells. There is nothing to give it thickness.
  13. Layer shifts can also occur if the printhead hits a curled area of plastic hard enough.
  14. You are welcome. Keep in mind, even if getting the files elsewhere, the above are things to check. 3D rendering can overcome a multitude of sins since they can work with shells and 2D surfaces. And, games are more often than not just what amounts to 2D shells without any thickness to them. Also, many, many files are just not that good when you download them.
  15. Would that not depend on a prototype for a final process? In other words, making a separate model for the 3D printer and another for the final? I know I would hate to make two models with one being just for the 3D printer.
  16. OK, here is the fixed file: bagon-2_EK.STL It slices fine in my UM3 printer definition as you can see here. Now, there were a few issues with the model: All parts were overlapping individual objects The main body was watertight The overlapping parts were just 'shells' This means that the other parts were 2D shells This created a lot of confusion for Cura as to where to 'cap' or 'bridge' whist trying to clean up the model. They would not union (boolean) properly in any program that is just mesh based. In the future, it wo
  17. Honestly, without knowing how it was made AND, knowing nothing about Cinema 4D, I am not sure how to advise you. I use a completely different set of programs. But, I will take a look and see if I can fix it. :)
  18. You are welcome. 😊 I just had to do that myself, having woke up to a runout and, well, that clogs the core as it cooks that little bit just sitting there in the nozzle.
  19. I did not see the attached model and .3mf file. So, thanks to @smartavionics for slicing it and making me look again. Sorry about that. Ever since surgery, I am not fully brain ready. But, I did download the model and it checked out fine. I had an issue with the .3mf file opening. Maybe the download was corrupted in transfer. But, I did slice the model using my standard UM printer profile and it sliced fine as you can see below. So, I am leaning towards a bad printer profile.
  20. Would not know unless the model can be evaluated. And, if this is not for a UM printer, something may be wrong with the printer def.
  21. Without the model to evaluate, I would hazzard a guess here, that it is a faulty model and it is trying to make 'bridges' between holes: ergo, a non-watertight model.
  22. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/23996-da-clumsy-noob-discovers-a-way-to-hot-pull-pva-midprint/
  23. Actually, with everything I have read, kinda glad I was not an early adopter on this........
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