kmanstudios

In a way, this is a follow up on the dancer print I posted before. Balance was an issue on the first one. It was all wibbly-wobbly (been watching too much Dr. Who this week) and just wanted to topple over. So, I had to redo it a couple of times to get it right. I also changed the dress a bit. The interesting thing is that depending on the infill colour used, it can greatly affect the overall hue of the skin. The first piece in the images had a gold infill and made the overall model a brilliantly bright red. The second and third images are using a purple infill and makes for a black cherry red with the same bright red hilites. Balance is now good and have printed several colour variations as well as solid versions. In the first and second images you can see where I made the final adjustments as well as removed that part of the dress. This piece was the first one I did making for the use of infills as a decorative element. And again, have several colour variations as well as solid prints. This final piece is an Angel. Duhhhhh, I included a solid version of the Angel to show how clean it can actually print. So, why is the transparent versions all 'hairy'? Well, I am printing all sorts of large layers with a 0.8 and CC 0.6 nozzle to increase transpareny. This creates that hairy print thing. But, a bit of quick heat from the SMD heat gun and it goes away. But the solid version is not so because even though I am printing with the same nozzles, my layer height is just 0.3 and does not require superheating filament to help it lay down and bond with the layers on the transparent versions. The transparent versions are printed at a 0.53mm height. All prints almost take up the full vertical space in the UM3E. All prints done with the same Art Deco style of minimalism.

Kinda not following that. With all due respect to the Cura Dev Team, in case you have not noticed that the last few versions have been less than stellar. Would it not be more prudent to actually focus on the stability and slicing robustness rather than further splintering efforts at this stage? Kinda not seeing any other slicers jumping on that bandwagon as well, even the paid for ones. Are you using the 3DXWare?

I believe you can set the 3D mouse to do navigation and access functions via virtual mouse clicks and drags, I have a space mouse that I do not use at the moment. But, if I remember correctly, I had the thing to where all my 3D programs worked the same as far as navigation goes and clicks and drags. But it has been a while.

You are welcome and good luck 🙂

I know for sure since 2.x

I would not use a JPG. It is lossy compression and can produce bad details. The PNG format is lossless compression and will not lose detail. I would search for free graphics programs to see what may appeal to you. Blender can be a bit of a pain to learn, so be aware of that. But, you will need something to be able to clean your mesh if it creates a square border like the first file I sent you. Or just scale the heck out of it.

This is the process. That is in Cura. But you have to play with it a bit just to get the idea of transforming the PNG into 3D. Then there is the aspect of a graphics program to take the colours your emblems are made of and make a clean version. And, then again, many people suggested a variety of ways to do it with other programs. It depends a lot on your program of choice. Sharing the info for others is better. Especially with all the input you can gather from others depending on the software of choice.

That helped me see that it is slicing ok. Though I am not sure why you are getting the results you are. I think that answer would lie with people that have experience on your printer though. But, from what I can tell, it seems to be a decent slice.

The time is 0 hours and 0 minutes. Does it slice at all?

A bit closer would help. You cannot capture the screen internally? All I can see is a flat sort of shadowy disc. A teeny, tiny disc. It would help to go to the custom tab. I cannot tell what layer height is in use either.

That is the solid view. You need to go to layers and see what that looks like.

Since Colorfabb is starting to make their own profiles, I would hope that should be along with others soon.

hat did the slice look like though? Post a screenshot.

🤣

You just need to be quick with the molding process. It may have been more prudent to use a higher melt point plastic if I was making a lot of them. But, it was what I had loaded and well, gonna start out with the easiest stuff to print with first 🙂 I do not know if they still do holiday parties in his school, but I hope he takes some. Will have the most original treats there 🙂

I would get in touch with your reseller immediately.

In a way, this is what I had made a while back. I printed out some things in PLA, then vacuum formed some dental grade PETG over the prints to make molds from them for chocolates. Everything is original except for the 'Bumble' from the 'Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer' Christmas special from the 60's. That can be found on thingiverse. I greatly modded that one. Venom is a mod from my Venom piece a while back and the ornament was from one of my Christmas sets I made a while back. The heart is some goofy thing I made ages ago. I sent the molds to my nephew who is on his way to being a dessert chef....or something else. He is still young enough to change his mind. I mean, he also has an anvil and does hand smithed metal. So, no telling where this young man's mind will take him. :) But, these were his first chocolates he made with the molds. Just got these pics.

To me, R&D is the most exciting time....so much to learn. It is after I know what I am doing and have a failed print that I think I have waste.

👍

There are so many factors. Looking at your slice in layer view would tell you what to expect based on your settings. Since I am not familiar with your printer, I cannot say more to help on that end...sorry.....

In all seriousness, only you can decide. It really depends on your goals. I can get a lot of things done on my S5 that I cannot on the UM3 Extended. One thing to consider is the use of abrasive materials. The S5 does have a hardened feeder wheel. The UM3 series does not. External size is there to allow for *lot* more of the buildplate to be used. MUCH easier to load and unload. While I am decent at 'looking ahead' on material left on a spool it still will bite me on the patootie when I miscalculate. Did so yesterday after returning from the Dr. Appointment. Danged UM3E had run out of material. Had to take the feeder off because the vendor used tape on the lead end on the spool to secure the filament when initially winding it. While it did not drag all the tape into the feeder, it dragged enough to create an issue. It was all my fault, but hey, mistakes do happen. And honestly, speed is something of an overall generalization in that even on the Um3 series and below it can be an issue. I constantly see posts where people are told to slow down the print speeds. I am printing two prints right now on my UM3Es that anything above 20ms will cause issues. But, then, I do not print things like most others do....most of it is a bit oddball as far as 3D printing usage goes. I find most want to make mechanical things and I do spindly, organic stuff for the most part. And that is also done on the UM3E and S5. So, I do know the S5 can handle delicate things.

It will have to come from either the Makers of the printers or from experienced users.

Well, printed ok, but it does not stand on its own. Disappointing really because I usually can get my models to balance ok right off the bat. So, off to the modelarium to tweak it........ 😣

That I do not know since you are on a different type of printer than I am. Sorry.

Here is a circular version. DiggersCylinder.zip I saved it out from Cura. Opened in 3D coat. The square background disappeared when I voxelized it. Exported form there. It is about 500K polys.