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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. Is that not what the modeling program is for?
  2. hmmm, musta misread that...I thought it said the old version was correct and the new version was not. Oranges and Minuite Maid are compatible, but there is still a difference. Be careful about those type of claims. I am not saying that you are wrong. I am just jaded on such claims.
  3. You can rotate the group and it will retain the relationship. Then click on the part you want to move while holding down the CTRL key (if on a Windows keyboard) and you will be able to move it separately).
  4. The thing to keep in mind is that you are on a 3rd party printer. It is possible the printer definitions for that printer have changed since your old version.
  5. Cura will try to avoid placing models on top of each other. To get them to work together, right click and choose 'slect all' or 'CTRL-+A'. Then right click and click on 'Merge Models'. Provided they are modeled correctly, they will align themselves as they were made and then group them. The difference between merge and group is that merge places them in their proper locations and then groups them. Group will just group them wherever they are placed as a unit on the buildplate.
  6. That is what I am seeing too. So far, everything seems to be lining up. I have a series of prints I am doing on that machine like the ones I posted. All seems to be just fine. Everything in its place, so to speak. But, they are very low resolution objects. Using a 0.8 and the CC .6 with very large layer heights to maximize transparencies to see the super duper cool gyroid pattern as a design element. So, arge layer heights mean a lot less pressure on the printhead...or at least as I theorize. Actually, I do not. But I would wait on that assessment until I get a chance to do some fine detail prints. Due to the larger layer height and large bore of the nozzles, I am heating beyond my usual printing temps and putting 110% flow to make sure it is nice and liquidy when printing....get a good tube of filament going straight down, slow printing to get a 'rope' effect and melt very well with the layer below it. Very, very little fan. Maybe that extra flow is keeping it aligned...I dunno. Not sure I want to mess with success unless I must. I am getting decent results with the type of prints I am making at the moment. But will reserve judgement until I get to go back to a standard, high def print. I have some things coming up that will prevent me from getting printing done about the beginning of the year, so I am trying to get a bit ahead so I can spend time painting and finishing up a bunch of other prints I have made and am making. But, will follow up when I get a chance to print a different type of thing. I am running out of transparent filaments, so that will probably be when I switch gears, again, on printing things.
  7. I use a PVA slutty and rarely have this happen. And when it does happen, I find I did not get that area cleaned and primed with the slurry.
  8. Kinda overlooking that this example is not a UM printer. Ergo, a bit more difficult to diagnose for a lot of people here unless they are expert on your brand of printer. What I would hope you understand is that 3rd party printers behave differently. Hence my specifying that the printers I have are UM printers. What would be best is that the owners of the printer companies actually made proper profiles for the printer to be included. I do know that many people try to contribute to their brand of printers. But it is not fully vetted. And, @Smithy's suggestion to cross check with another piece of software will very much help identify issues.
  9. I believe the speed is the most appropriate solution. Have you given that a shot? I know I do not have this issue on either the S5 or UM3.
  10. Since FBRC8 is my support group, I await her input. It is still under warranty so, would not want to affect that.
  11. For some reason, and it has been going on since inception, the S5 will kill a print job when detecting a difference between nozzle heights. This is really, really, really annoying as well as a huge waste of time. Imagine if you will, your printer is one flight of stairs and several rooms away. Basically, a big walk. Now, you are sitting there monitoring the printer and it detects the difference (which, by the way can be iffy sometimes). So, you go to the printer and clean the nozzles again, and then have to trek all the way to the monitoring computer just to reload the file. Again. And AGAIN. AND AGAIN, ad infinitum. The UM3(E) firmware will cycle it around for doing a print, while giving enough time to check for issues on the nozzles or plates. Much better realized in concept. Detect, clean, start SAME print job anew. Without all the danged blinking lights and other annoyances. I have literally had to reload my files for 'reprinting' more than ten times sometimes just to get the danged thing to just move on. Sometimes, I do nothing and it works during one of the reprints. So, job killed, detecting difference in nozzles while cleaning in between. Sometimes, just send it back through and it is all fine. ?????? But the lakc of recycling the job the way the UM3(E) does seems to be a regression of approach.
  12. My other UM3E and S5 do not have this wiggle. Edit: and yeah...it is strange.....
  13. No worries. It is just helpful for the people who have experience on certain printers to be able to give concise information.
  14. Thanks. But I posted them here to show that I am getting decent results with just the type of prints I am making at this time. Everything is lining up and the prints from front to back are ok too. Note that I am not doing high detail prints on this machine at this time. Here is a quick movie of the movement. It takes no strength to wiggle it. Fore Aft Wiggle
  15. The rods are fine as well as the blocks. It seems to be something in the fit of the printhead on the rod itself. It is printing right now, but here are some pics of the current prints I have been making. Two colour, no supports. All seems to be lined up ok and no issues with leveling. As soon as I get finished with this current print in the morning, I will try to make a quick vid to show it. And as soon as I finish the series, I will be trying a fine detail print to see if it holds that well.
  16. I have two UM3E printers. The newer one has developed, or rather I should say I noticed today, that it has a wiggle in the fore and aft direction. The older one is tight. What can cause this and what can I do about it? Thanks :)
  17. Nope, that is normal activity. I run into it when I superheat my filaments during certain ops and get a lot of hairy stuff. Fan mobility = friction. Friction = heated strands of filament. Heated strands = expansion and general gooiness and then bog down to stop. When not running ( turned on an generating heat) fibres shrink, releasing the fan until it heats up again.
  18. While there is more color here than one nozzle, the effect remains consistent: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/462-post-your-latest-print/?do=findComment&comment=224970
  19. For? Grapphics programs? His search would be as good as my search. Printing options? Not really any more than offered already. As I said, I just started to use transparent skins or PVA, mostly transparent, to get a clean gyroid infill (Let the pattern show through). This has more to do with the limitations of how cura handles infills. I mean, seriously, not many weirdos (no offense to the OP) like me that wanna do this stuff. Most salient points were made by you. But I still would investigate larger bore nozzles rather than more infill walls.
  20. Oh...HAHAHAHA...I thought the person was aware of something I was not and therefore asked. Hence the warning of not being rude.
  21. Not being rude, but, what does with the materials AMA?
  22. At the risk of sounding sarcastic (which I am really being serious), I just went with the Larger bore nozzles (0.6, 0.8. etc.) to get thicker infills. However, I have not gotten a good print without some sort of shell (PVA or otherwise), even with the combing off. But I am getting nice patterns in see through objects that I like.
  23. That is why there is a difference between world space and object space.
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