Carla_Birch

Hopefully it gets fixed so i can return to 5.4 as i rolled back thinking they had pulled 5.4 due to some problem.

Hi, i have had firmware 5.4 installed for about a week now and today my S5 as started to ask me to install 5.2.11 when i have 5.4 installed? As there been a roll back of firmware?

When you turn Ethernet off, can you then turn on the Wifi?

I’m using WiFi but it does seem to have small drop outs, I have spotted sometimes the app will not find the printer or will lose it but then it don’t take found till it finds it. Cura is the same sometimes the send print via network will turn to save as file for a number of secs, not really anything that’s stopping me from using the printer. also seen that when import model into Cura it pops up a message saying the models been edited and do you want to reload it but that’s more a Cura big with latest version and you just let it go away from the screen. Did you do a reset at all after the firmware update btw? I make it a habit to do a Cura connect reset after I update firmware, note you will lose your print queue when you do it.

For 2) I personally i always have it print a prime blob and skirt, that way you know you always get good flow on the first layer. For 1) my S5 is printing right now so can not see of mines the same, but it does seem like it drops in and out abit.

When its lifted and lowered i started to get the same sound after a number of months so i rubbed some the grease into the lifting mechanism and flicked it up and down a few times by hand and rerun the calibration and the sound went away.

I have had my S5 from not longer after they come out and have never had a problem with the printer. For accuracy it really a matter of how close do you need the part to be to the model, you as melting plastic so that will always affect the accuracy somewhat even from brand to brand of filament. I think @SandervG posted not long ago some settings for better accuracy prints also.

I personally have 4 glass plates for my S5, 1 i keep as a spare should one break or chip. The other 3 i print with, 1 in the printer printing, one with the last print on cooling down to be removed and the other all clean and ready to go in the printer when the next prints done.

Do you know where the pulled back filament ends up at? Sometimes on my S5 it takes a few goes to get the filament past the feeder wheel and into the tube with the testion off the filament, my worry is how well can it unload and load the filament when it looks like the station as no way to lift the bar to take the testion off the filament feeder wheel.

@SandervG About the filament station, When a filament runs out and it swaps spools, what happens to the filament thats already past the feeder? I'm also worried that if i got a few prints lined up and some are PLA and others say Nylon, again what happens to the filament already in the tubes past the feeder wheel? because i guess the filament is swapped inside the filament station so thats alot of filament left in the tube that needs to go somewhere?

Yeps, i personally love my S5 and hoping to get a 2nd one some time next year to ease some the printing load on my first thats running almost 24/7 all the time. I might get temped by the S3 later down the line to replace my old Flashforge Dreamer what was the first printer i got. I want to keep atlest one of my 1.75mm printers just because of the extra range of filaments you can get. Would love to see Ultimaker make a printer that supported 1.75

Better leveling same as the S5 and i would say its also got the harded extruder so the CC cores can be used without wearing down the extruder gears. The build size is a bit wider but then you lose some of the depth what i do find a little odd, should have atlest matched the U3

Looking at the promo video they seem to have a good bit of space each side of them so most 1kg spools you would hope will fit, would be a big oversight if only Ultimakers fitted.

This is the UK price, keep in mine vats got to be added also.

Be nice to see a video of the filament station in action and how it works. If the enclosure is not to costly, I’ll be getting that as I been after one.

Keep in mind most CF or glass filled filaments print better with a nozzle of 0.5 or bigger. With a 0.4 you might run into problems with blocked nozzles over a long print due to the added fibers in the filament.

colorFabb PA-CF Low Warp is easy to print, just as easy as PLA is. Not done any real tests with it but its meant to be strong.

Defo looks like a encloser on top of a S5, what if not to much cost next to other makes, i'll likely get. What is under the S5 mind you as got me wanting to find out.

You might want to look into this filament from colorfabb: https://colorfabb.com/lw-pla-black

Align faces is something i have been looking forward to, its something i used in Simplify3D alot due to the type of items i print so its really handy.

If you really want the NFC reader and a Polybox you could make a mount for it inside the Polybox, personally as others say not really any need for the NFC unless you really track the amount of filament you have left for prints. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993354

I always let my prints cool 🙂 it just sticks way to good to the glass, i'll back off the first layer so its pushed down less.

I perosnally use colorfabb 2.2KG PLA spools, i can hang it on the spool holder just fine still (without the guide part mind you) and then my PVA is in a dry box (best place for it)

I got some of the matte grey again and i face the same problem i had with my old 1.75mm printers when i tired it and that is it sticks far to well to the glass and you end up 1) breaking the part getting them all or 2) clip the glass. Have people been using normal PLA settings with it? I have my initial layer height set at 0.2mm i think i might try 0.15 but i worry about chipping the glass keeping on using it.