Carla_Birch

User Manual https://ultimaker.com/download/74047/UM180509 UMS5 Manual V18.1.pdf 1) You might need to adjust the feeder tension, also PVA gets wet fast and that can give feed problems. 2) check user manual 3) Yes you can, You upload them via wifi, ethernet or cloud

Well i normal use Isopropyl to clean my glass build plate, but due to coronavirus and the human race being how it is, people have put the prices up a silly amount to try and make a quick cash gain from it and the normal places i get it from are sold out or holding stock back from the NHS (whats the right thing to do as NHS comes first) I'm almost out of IPA and I'm not willing to give them people the money they are after, so what else do people use to clean the glass after prints? I was thinking maybe glass cleaner like this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0011569SK/?coliid=IWSLY64SZGUSC&colid=31KHMUA05NPTZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it If it helps i use 3DLac on my glass when printing and not a glue stick.

That's the Ultimaker Original, in other words the first Ultimaker 3D Printer.

Have you tired doing a Cure connect reset on the printer?

Yep always take it out to spray, in time if you don't clean your rods from time to time you will find that the print head will start to stick when moving and make your prints fail. It can also get on the sensors if your printer as a light based homing sensor and stop them working.

Was Ultimaker Connect edited as mines now showing time left on a print and not a day/time when it would be done (On PC Browser) I find it helpful to know at when time a print will be ending so i know if i need to tweak the speed so it ends before i go work/bed. Used to be like: Finishes Friday 18:50

I'm by far no tech but maybe in the years ahead they might make a printer thats got a built in scales linked to the spool holder that lets you put a spool on and knock of the weight of the spool itself in the settings, so its always giving a true weight of filament left. would need some type of pressure pad in both half's of the spool holder so it could read the weight of each spool.

Yes, it can do a prime blob just be sure you click on that print core at the top of the settings to swap the settings over to that print core.

I personally always cut a point on the end of my filament when i load it, it makes it so much more easy to load than a flat end. Grinding with PVA can come from it being wet, PVA can get wet very fast going by the type of place its in. So i would dry it out 65C for 4-8 hour should do it and then put it in a polybox or some other airtight system, even when in use.

I would personally try a factory reset from the settings menu and then try the update. (note print queue will be lost)

If you go to the market place in Cura, you will find a plugin called "Material settings" this add's extra print settings to the materials list.

PVA loves water, it will soak up any little bit it can find in the air. Just opening the front of the case up is letting in new wet air that the station then drys out, but at same time the PVA will be pulling in the wet also. From what i understand the station will help keep things dry but does not dry already wet filament out. So might be handy to dry out PVA still from time to time or before you put in the station also.

Happy to see you got them working, happy printing hopefully now going forward.

Well there is more to say, eg like: What settings did you use? If you can post images of your settings that would be a great help. It can also help to share the stl you tired incase its a stl file error. Also did anything stick to the glass plate of the first layer? The more details you can share the more easy it will be to help.

Is the code for the left or right extruder? I personally use the left one for PLA as it works better with being closer to the cooling duct.

Yep defo go with a Polybox, it’s what I use on mine.

Do you have any plans to update the Cura connect app to work outside of the local network of the printer? It would be very handy to be able to access the printers from outside of the local network so you can check to make sure a print as is still fine and if you have had a fail to be able to cancel the print. Right now if you are outside of your local network and if a print fails you will return to a lot of wasted filament and a big mess, if you could check in you would be able to stop it sooner. Also the app does not send alerts to warn you of a filament run out error, and it be handy if it did.

You might need to slow the print speed down and edit your wall sizes for a thin wall print with cut outs in them, its going make the printhead make a lot of fast movements thats going add a lot of vibration into the part being printed, even more so if the printer is trying to fill in a gap between the walls.

I'm sure if you ask Ultimaker support or your local reseller they can give you an old firmware version and the steps needed to roll back, i know they did it for people who had problems with the air station and that.

Going by what filament you use, just let the glass to cool down and the prints just pop off, compressed air cans can help speed this up also. Not used the flexplates, but i have seen a few places have started to sell them now, hopefully they don't make active leveling to start to have a problem and they stay flat if printing a big print. Personally i just take a print out and put another glass in to start printing why the other print cools.

With a UPS i would always play safe and get one bigger than the power draw, the more over the longer the backup will last before you drain it in a power cut. Spikes in power can make problems with computers what can happen in work place settings where starting a machine or something up could mean the printer does not get the full power needed. The UPS i have on my S5 is 900VA/540W and it copes fine and i get a good 10-15 min (if you pause the printer when power drops out) I need to look as getting a much bigger one because my S5 is getting a twin on Friday when my second S5 comes to help share some the print load with the first.

If the printer freeze mid-print, it could be a power problem. Is your printer linked up to a Back up UPS? Because if you are in a work place set up and people are turning machines, tools off and on it might make a power dip what could crash the printer. So it's good to run a backup UPS, plus if you get a power cut you got a good 5-10 min to pause the printer and hope the power comes back on so you lessen the risk of a lost print.

Your resell in the US can get them for you, it's just most resellers don't list it on the websites so you have to email the support for them. I had to do the same with new bowden tubes, UK resellers don't list them but was more than happy to order me some via email. So might be better doing that than using Makerpoint as i would not like to risk glass going that far in the postal system if your US resell can get them you.

I have had my S5 from Aug 2018 and it runs basically almost 24/7 all year without any problems. The odd time I’ll get a filament run out error but that’s due to needing to clean a feeder out or needing to dry the spool of filament out. only real problem I had was when I oil the rods, it made the print head not move right, but that was my mistake as I put to much oil on. Only needs a single drop or 2. I can load it up, had off bed or out and I know I’ll come back to a good print, even if it’s a big 4 day print.

Clean the feeder, clean the nozzle, check the feeder tension. All can give the run out error if the flow senior picks up the flow of filament is not running how it should. Also if its a clear filament that can make it more likely to error also.