Carla_Birch

The sensor works fine for me with 3rd party filament and i use it all the time, printer is basically on 24/7 most the time. Have you updated to the latest firmware btw, i know a past update fixed a bug with the flow sensor saying one filament had run out all the time.

Yep they are official Ultimaker S5 ones.

It's just a bug that seems to have come back, once you can reset your machine it will be fine and with luck the next update will fix it for good and its also due to add support for LED's going totally off and not just dim. So i would wait it out before cutting into wires on a £6k machine.

I have to say goprint3d.co.uk where i got my S5 from was real good and they sent me a email like the next day after official post and a postal letter also about the build plate.

If you wish to save on PVA you can print with PLA supports with just a PVA Roof, this is something i personally do and it greatly saves on time and cost. But you can only really do this if the supports are in places where you can still remove the PLA support. But if the model is one where you can do just that you save time and money why keeping the benefit of a smooth underside on overhangs that PVA gives. As for the above it could be due to prime tower, 0.8 will do a wider wall around the prime tower than 0.4 would, this is just a guess i have not looked so try it without a prime tower (if you are trying with one)

The led's going off will be in a update in the new year, you can edit the code to fix the problem yourself but it's not something i would risk doing on a machine that costs so much and would wait for the official update.

I still had it happen once even after the patch, just power down and boot back up and was fine.

My S5 works perfect and i have yet to have any prints fail and i'm up to 70days of running hours on the hot end, problem is due to end user not using supported software. My only problem is with the lack of aluminum build plate but that don't stop it from being a great printer that can just keep printing over and over none stop.

@SandervG Could you not put forward the idea to pack in a box of the adhesion sheets also along with the extra glass? this would: 1) make the value more like for like in terms of whats been lost out by no longer getting the Aluminim build plate, because i'm very sure it would have cost much more than a glass one to replace. 2) Would add back some of the promise that you can print more hard wearing filaments on the machine that are not so kind to glass build plates.

I think one the factors wrong that most people have with this is the replacement value, a new glass build plate is like €32 new and thats official ultimaker one, I'm sure an aluminum would have cost a great deal more than that, we ordered a machine with a promise of something and we are not getting that promise now we are being given something i feel of greatly less value as a way to make us feel happy they broke a promise? When you break a promise you should try and go above to make people happy, this just feels like the min ultimaker could have done and is not a like for like value replacement, i mean i'm happy i'm getting a extra glass even know i already have some due to the delay in the 2nd plate but you could have easy added up the value and the use of it by adding some sheets in also for people that wanted the aluminum build plate to use with filaments that are harder and more likely to damage the glass.

The aluminium build plate as been cancelled going by a email I got just. We are now getting a 2nd glass build plate shipped out. It’s a shame as the aluminium build plate was sold to us with the promise that it’s better for printing some types of filament than glass. Now I guess it’s glass and sheets if you want to print something that eats into the glass if by itself.

Not sure how you are going about it but most people that print on textiles will print the first layer or 2 of the print and then stop the print and place the textiles over the top and just tape it down and restart the print. I think you should be more worried when adding anything between the platform and the glass about the glass then hitting the print heads due to it being higher, also about the loss of heat transfer between the platform and glass. Not 100% sure what you plan to print but i feel you might be over thinking the set up when just good old tape or bulldog clips might just do the trick just fine.

Go to the marketplace and install printer settings in side bar if you don't have it installed already, then under the printer settings in side bar you can set the steps.

Hi, just checking to see if there is any update on the Ultimaker S5’s aluminim build plate and when it might start to be shipped out to owners of the printer? many thanks

Anyone else find that when gyroid infill is used that the time to print in cura is way out from real life? (Using Ultimaker S5 to print) In Cura it said 14 hours 12min, but real world was 19 hours 37 min what i find to be way way out next to using one of the normal infills i used before 3.6

Support should have been used, Cura is even saying its to use so much PLA and so much PVA. normal if you pick layer view and press play it will show the supports also like this. Thing is the S5 should have stopped printing if the PVA was not coming out, did you see the printer at all moving the head to the right side between layers to swap print cores?

Simplify3D 4.1 that come out other day now supports the S5 and if needed I have working profiles for Simplify3D 4.01

Have done that tonight and the led is the same, that’s just how bright they are in a dark room on the lowest setting what for me is not a problem but I can understand why some really would like them to be able to go totally off.

Just got a few day print going right now so will have to try reset after that prints done. But i was thinking the led bug fixed was just the one where the led would not react to the slider? My led reacts to the slider and thats how bright they are on the lowest setting. Thats the printer on full brightness in a dark room., vs the below (what i posted above) on the min setting

This is what my S5 is like in a dark room when the frame lights and display are both on the min setting to the left. Why I don’t personally have a problem to much my self I can understand why some do because if something is making a room light up and it can be seen even more if from street level then the wrong type of people might get the idea to try and “borrow” that S5

Here is a idea for you, download Cura and pick the s5 profile for the printer and load some of the models you wish to print and see what the print time and cost says. Don’t forget to edit the filament costings in Cura. This way you get a idea of time and cost it takes to print the items you are likely to be printing and at the settings you wish to use.

Yep frame light settings are still the same and can only dim.

This is working profiles for AA/AA cores and AA/BB cores. 0.4mm btw Download the attached file and unzip. Open Simplify3D, go to File > Import FFF Profile, and navigate to the saved profile. This will import the settings into the software. To start using these new settings, click Edit Process Settings, and the choose the new entry at the very bottom of the Select Profile drop down list. After creating your .gcode file, import the gcode into Ultimaker Cura then click save. This will create your UFP file which can be printed on the S5. Simplify3D_S5.zip

The sensor saved me the other week when on a long print the filament snapped at about 90% done what brings the other good point that you can easy reload and swap filament mid print without any problems.