Carla_Birch

The official re-sellers even is the don't list the part on the store interface, will order you in parts you need if you email them. So i would contact the re-seller for the region you are from via e-mail or phone and they will sort something out for you. I had to do this with parts for my S5's and you can be sure you getting official parts then.

Hi, With copper fill filaments, they are hard wearing on the nozzles and feeders. Also it’s better for most to use a 0.5 nozzle due to the little bits inside the filament they can block a 0.4 If you plan to print with it a lot I would look at getting hardened nozzles and also feeders. If you only going use it now and then then you should get away with just a 0.5 nozzle, but keep in mind a brass one will wear faster using copper fill.

Hi, I personally always print Breakway with a roof and floor with 0.0 gap because that's how its meant to be printed. If you find its sticking to hard to PLA or PLA+ than i would wait for the print to cool down a bit more if you are trying to remove when it's still warm. You could also check the manual level of the print bed to make sure the core 2 of not a bit tighter (lower) down then core 1, because this could mean it might be printing abit into the PLA+

The holes in the model can be down to a few thing's so it helps to watch a print and to see if you can see if: 1) If filament is flowing at the start of a new layer. 2) if its filament stopping to flow before the end. You want to be looking at settings like: Prime tower: Do you use one? if not the nozzle is likely not primed ready for a new layer. Retraction: Eg is the filament being pulled to far back so its not flowing at the start of the layer. You also have a prime speed setting what says how fast filament is pushed back into the nozzle.

Could it be that the manual levelling needs to be done? Not sure if the data from that is saved (eg the full 1mm gap placement data) but just thinking if it is and its not been run could the auto level be stopping thinking its 1mm away from the glass when really its not?

The problem with unloading even if its the end of the spool is if it's not done right you stand the risk of the tip being more of the filament then a real thin part then a small chunk of filament what can break off and get stuck in the feeder or in another part. What then stops you being able to load new filament and means you need to strip things down to remove the little part of filament.

If it's never worked then my guess would be its more your network/router side than the printers. If the printers internet is setup you might find your network/router firewall is blocking the cloud. If you are able to, try turning off any firewalls on your network/router and see if it works then, if it does you will need to find out what ports/domains you need to give access to on your firewall/router. @SandervG might know this info for you if it is that whats the problem.

The plugin got a update today, so maybe its fixed for you now on the 3S, i know it worked fine on the s5

I used to put my big 3k spools on the filament holder at the rear, with my PVA in a polybox. Problem was the weight of the spool added a lot of drag so you would get problems with under extrusion or the printer thinking the filament had runout. I have gone back to using 1KG spools on the holder just fine (well apart from can not fit the filament guide part). I even tired the big 3kg spool in the polybox what as bearing rollers and it was better, but i have gone back to 1kg spools again now as i have moved to using eSun PLA+ and can not easy find that in 3kg size. So i would defo look at having a bearing system but i would not hang it off the back, as its double the weight the normal holder would take.

I have personally made some little anti-vibration feet for my S5 now because its on a wood desk so hopefully it will take out some the vibration and sound when printer is in use, more so because i have 2 s5 side by side printing. Best to use a TPU filament with around 50% infill, have added the stl files below for both right and left hand feet. It also gives about 6mm of extra height under the printer what gives better air flow for the fan under it. Or like i do i store the 2nd glass build plate under the printer. Body1.stl Body2.stl

Something like this is what you want to design but with bearings, but also need to be careful with some types of filament as if a big spool is to free moving you could unspool off the spool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4406953

Yeah the Ultimaker holder is not designed for big spools, even 1kg ones some don’t fit right and you can not install the filament guide. Would be nice if they made ones that was more able to support other brands and sizes. i would personally make a swing style with bearings so it can not roll off the bearings.

Better to take a few min to start a print than to lose a print 10 hours in due to a bad first layer.

Could you post your settings you are using as that really helps to see what might be going on. But a few things to check mostly with PVA is to check its dry and you will get problems with it (it's why i have started to use breakaway now) Also clean the nozzle that's getting extrusion problems. Filament spilling out of the core not in use could be your stand by temp setting or retraction settings.

For the first one "1. When printer finish the print, nothing happens and just freeze, i need always to restart." Are you letting the print bed cool down first before you turn off. Once a prints done the print bed will cool down before you can confirm you have removed the print. This is designed so you don't burn yourself on hot glass.

Never really used it myself but my understanding is that it’s a offset from what the auto level sets at, so might only need to set to like 0.05 also I’m not 100% sure but to higher it would be a -0.05 value.

In the market place you will find a plug in for z offset, that let’s you adjust to have a bigger gap between the bed and print core.

It does sound odd that you had settings working before and now they don't. Have you reset cura profiles just incase something got edited by mistake.

eSun PLA+ is my main filament I use on both my S5 printers and all I have done is use the main PLA profile and just made the temps 215c and it prints fine.

The filament sensor is built into the printers feeders, basically you will see a little PCB and thats got a wheel on it, thats the sensor and the filament moving should turn the wheel. when the filament runs out it should be pulled past the wheel and stop in the knurled wheel before it goes past it. So i don't see how it would work if you hold the filament from moving but then not work when it runs out past the sensor wheel.

Personally i would up the hot end by 5c at a time up to about 215c. I normal print PLA at 205c and it could be that its taking your printer a bit to full get a good flow going as that part don't look very big.

Being able to bend the filament 180 and back before it snaps is a good thing. So if your able to do that it's a bit odd why it would snap at the feeder. So i would check the filament is flowing out the hot end nicely, because like you say if its not it can make pressure and if the feeder as a good hold of it it will snap it. What layer height, temp and speed you printing the tougt pla at?

It could be the filament itself, if it's been left out for weeks on the printer not being used. Try to bend the filament to see if it bends or just snaps. Most PLA filaments you can bend over on to self before it snaps/breaks, if it snaps way before that then the filaments bad what could be down to it being left in a humid environment on the printer.

For your Z with the S5 it really pushes down the first layer to make sure the print sticks. If you are out basically the same no matter how tall the print is, then maybe try the "z offset settngs" plugin from the market place so you can have it not push down as much into the glass to see if it effects the overall z..

If its getting worse every day then i would think it's not a setting but something with the camera or in the camera. have you tired to clean inside it and clean the len to see if it gets better. If you are somewhere thats very humid you could be getting damp inside the camera and not just the lens face. Also if the printer is somewhere cold you can get damp inside as inside the printer warms up when running.