Enigma_M4

Hi, does the lift switch work properly (is the right nozzle going up and down when the printer switches)? If not, you have to (re)calibrate the lift switch. Regards

Hi, the O-ring is not needed and, for the S-line printers, recommended to be left away. AFAIK, formaly, they were intended to seal the print head of the UM3, but have been removed some time ago. Regards

Hi, feeder tension is the same for all nozzle sizes. The only situation for changing the feeder tension is to lower it before taking the feeder apart for maintenance (cleaning) and restore it to the middle position after maintenance. Regards

Hallo @Klinki04, was mir bei Deinem Symtom als erstes einfällt, ist ein mögliches Problem mit dem Frontlüfter. Überprüfe, ob der sich frei drehen kann, oder ggf. durch Filamentfäden verschmutzt ist (siehe Wartungsplan). Des weiteren muß der Lüfter immer laufen, wenn und sobald mindestens ein Druckkern die 60°C-Schwelle überschritten hat. Wenn der Lüfter ab 60°C nicht läuft, führt dies zu einer Hitzeausdehnung bis in den kalten Bereich des Druckkopfs und verursacht dort Verstopfungen, was zu dem von Dir beschriebenen Problem führen kann. Grüße Ach ja, und nochwas: Im "allgemeinen" Forum schreiben wir gewöhnlich in Englisch, für deutsche Beiträge ist das deutsche Forum (weiter unten auf der Hauptseite) der richtige Platz. Daher meine Antwort jetzt nochmal auf Englisch: Hi, the first thing that comes to mind with your symptom is a possible problem with the front fan. Check if the fan can rotate freely or if it is contaminated by filament threads (see maintenance plan). Furthermore, the fan must always run when and as soon as at least one print core has exceeded the 60°C threshold. If the fan does not run above 60°C, this will cause heat to expand into the cold area of the printhead and cause clogging there, which can lead to the problem you describe. Regards Oh, and one more thing: In the "general" forum we usually write in English, for German posts the German forum (further down on the main page) is the right place. Therefore my answer now again in English:

Hi, it's the BB Core, which is only dedicated to PVA. For Breakaway, use the AA Core, as for any other (non-abrasive) non-PVA material. Regards

Hi, this link may also be helpful: https://makerbot.my.salesforce.com/sfc/p/j0000000HOnW/a/5b000004UNI3/Td88i0yCfsVnW2uEoZPK1QGZpk_JhFeInUY0o8v11IQ (Ultimaker 3 - Declaration of safe unattended professional use - 2016.pdf) Regards

Hi, If you don't have the prime tower activated, you could give it a try. It's meant exactly for this purpose. On the other hand, if only the support structure is affected, you just could leave it at it is and live with it... Regards

Hi, it can be found in the web-API, formaly known as "Cura Connect" or "Digital Factory", accessed by IP-adress or via the "Monitor"-tab in Cura. I don't know, if it's part of the actual S5 firmware, but it's worth a try. Regards

Hi, there is no spring above the -static- printcore #1. So there's no spring missing. Pushing up the printcore while levelling is to a certain grade normal. Your auto-level issues must have a different reason. Regards

Hi, it seems your print head cooling fan (the one inside the flap) is not working properly. This fan should always run if the temparature of a printcore is above 60°C. Check the fan for debries and clean it (see here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337928504 and here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411590139) If the fan is clean and does'nt run at hot printcore, check the cabling and/or replace it. Regards

Hi, I don't want to disagree @Gero, but possibly -and hopefully- the clicking noise could result from active levelling (which would be far better than a damaged bearing). Your video is inconclusive at that point. This could easily be checked: just touch the Z-screw while printing. If the clicking sound correspondents to slight movement of the leadscrew, that's it. And if the clicking sound disappears after about 4 or 5 printed layers, that's the last proof. Clicking noise related to active levelling is totally normal, as the printer compensates the out-of-level printbed by adapting the first few layers. It can be reduced by manually leveling the print bed as good as possible, but I never got totally rid of it. Regards

@43915 is totally right. The prime tower is automatically generated when extruder 2 is involved, no matter if extruder 1 is used or not. If you want to get rid of the prime tower, just disable it in the "dual extrusion"-settings.

I think @CarloK has earned the "solution"-patch

Hi, I guess the printer will accept the CC core after firmware-adaption (see your document), but I don't know how to deal with it in Cura. I'm just enjoying the flow sensors and have no experience with the CC cores. Regards

Just disable your printer's firewall.

Hi, aditional, checking for lose pulleys (especially on the shafts of the stepper motors) could be recommended. Regards

Hi, the first things that come in mind are lack of lubrication or build-up of debris at one or more of the main shafts, at the home position. Regards

That's just an uneducated guess, but your Cura is local, the digital factory is "world-wide", so perhaps the DF has no time zone? "Finished in ... minutes" is international.

Ja, gewöhnlich schützt eine Firewall ja gegen Angriffe von außen, die Ultimaker "Firewall" scheint den Drucker jedoch nur vor unberechtigten Zugriffen von innerhalb des Netzwerks abzuschirmen...

Das "suppen" beim Nivellieren ist -leider- normal. Beim Drucken mit Breakaway nutze ich -wie generell beim Multimaterialdruck- einen Einzugsturm zum Abstreifen der "Rotznasen" und habe dabei immer ein recht gutes Ergebnis. An zu hoher Temperatur dürfte es wohl nicht liegen (ich nutze das offizielle Cura-Profil mit den dort eingestellten 215°C, was die untere Grenze des Temperaturfensters laut Datenblatt (215-230°C) darstellt, und trotzdem läuft es nach). Auf die Oberfläche des Stützmaterials sollte man nichts geben, solange die Oberfläche des Druckobjekts in Ordnung ist. Viele Grüße und "happy printing".

Hi, die Firewall muß auf jeden Fall aus sein (bei aktivierter Firewall geht Drucken soweit ich weiß nur über die Cloud). Wenn der Drucker im Cura Menü gefunden wird (mal über "Drucker verwalten" > "Anschluss über Netzwerk" >"aktualisieren" versuchen), müßte er sich eigentlich automatisch verbinden, zu erkennen am blauen Haken rechts unten am Druckersymbol in Cura. Wenn statt dem blauen Haken die blaue Wolke erscheint, einfach mal kurz aus dem Cloud-Konto abmelden.

Hi, if your printer is connected by network (and possibly by Ultimaker Cloud), you can see the finishing time in the "Monitor"-tab of Cura. Regards

Hi, I remember a topic (but can't find it for now) where someone mentioned good experience with an UPS by APC for his S5, which gave him bridging time of about 30 minutes. I for myself (and my UM3) selected a quick and dirty (and a bit pricy) solution by using a power station with EPS function and 1000W power, which leads to a bridging time of at least 5 hours (calculating from the maximum power use of 200W; real consumption is about 120W). The external power brick of the UM3 is slow enough to deal with the short (30ms) switch time of the EPS. So your first consideration would be how long you usually have to ride out a power outage, so you know your need of energy, and then select a USV or a power station. I use a Delta2 from EcoFlow, but I know that other manufacturers also have similar power stations with EPS function available. Regards

I'd recommend fbrc8.com, as they're -afaik- the official reseller for Ultimaker in the US. And @fbrc8-erin is a very active and helpful member of this forum. Regards

Of course I can 😉. The factory set distance between the top of the aluminium base plate and the bottom of the heated bed is 14mm. It is mentioned -at least- here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337928740 and here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667417606244 For convenient measuring there's a special spacer tool by @IRobertI https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool which might be the leveling tool mentioned above, or -as I learned now- a tool provided by Ultimaker itself (see links in the above articles), which is designed for the UM3 and the UM2+ Regards