Enigma_M4

Hi Daniel, I've found a possibly helpful link at zendesk with a step-to-step instruction to change the printhead cable: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004541446-Printhead-Ultimaker-3-Ultimaker-3-Extended- And a quote from @gr5 in another topic (cable related ER18 Error message), point 4, where a cable relief is suggested to take away stress from the cable connector: gr5 Moderator 1,183 12,439 posts Report post Posted March 29 · UM3 ER18 after update I think it's a coincidence as this behavior has not been reported with the update. So the cable comes loose quite easily. It takes all of 1 minute to fix it. 1) Remove the 2 long screws at the rear of the print head. You access them at the top. Removing those completely will not do much at all - things will still stay together. 2) Then remove the rear top cover - it covers the rear half of the print head and holds the cable in place. 3) Seat the cable better. Push down on both ends of the connector with some kind of tool or small finger. 4) Put some blue tape or scotch tape or other shim around the cable for better cable relief so the cable won't slide upwards and pull the connector out again a few months from now. 5) Put it back together Greetings

Hallo @Digibike, meintest Du wirklich "ABS" oder (der Kontext legt's nahe) doch eher PLA? Ist nämlich ein interessanter Effekt, den ich gerne mal ausprobieren würde. Grüße

Hi Daniel, this thingy doesn't seem to be a regular part of the printhead, as listed in the parts list (pages 11 - 14) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf It looks like broken off another part. From shape and size, I'd guess it belongs to the connector of the print head cable (the small tab that locks the connector in it's socket). But that's only a guess. Greetings

At the first two sheets I used, I bent the overhang over the edge of the glass plate and left it even after they "stretched" again (also a good grip for removal of the used sheet), meanwhile i cut them off (looks better, but it's harder to peel off an edge for removal). Reuseability is good if not treated with sharp edges during removal of the print. I use plastic wedges to remove the print from the sheet (for example these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14672 ) and used the last adhesion sheet for nearly four (4!) months until i replaced it (one or two small cuts can happen and are ok, more are not esthetical anymore). And of course, I don't use them, where not adviced (for example printing TPU).

Hi Welveryn, as I was never forced to do a xy calibration, I only know from hearsay: If your UM3(E) is running an "old" firmware (4.x or older), there should be no issue in the calibration process, so the behaviour of the feeder may be normal. If you're running new firmware 5.2.8, there is an issue with the retraction, which requires the filament pushed forward manualy at the beginning of the calibration process. The bad adhesion of the PVA (?) from core BB could result from bad bed levelling (but i don't think so, because the PLA rectangle looks ok) or possibly from a "dirty" glassbed (for example fingerprints or other residue is bad for adhesion). As PLA can be used to clean a BB Printcore, you might be able to use it also for xy calibration, if PVA does not stick properly. Possibly Ultiarjan has an idea? Greetings

Hi Welveryn, I think I found it. The spring (DR2160) seems to be Part-Nr. 1788, as shown on page 21 of the attached "parts manual". With the part-nr. your reseller should be able to get you a spare. Greetings UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf

Hallo, wie wurde denn die statische IP vergeben? Zuteilung irgendeiner im Router verfügbaren IP, oder Einstellung der am S5 angezeigten IP als feste IP im Router? (Im ersteren Fall: wird die vergebene IP am S5 angezeigt?) Letzteres habe ich bei meinem UM3 erfolgreich durchexerziert (der Drucker hatte sich bei der Ersteinrichtung eine eigene IP "gesucht", die hab' ich bei einem leider erforderlich gewordenen Routerwechsel statisch dem Drucker zugewiesen), die Kommunikation des Druckers mit Cura, Firmewareserver und Cloud funktioniert bestens. Grüße

It seems there has appeared a new procedure: to ensure, the lift switch ist in "down" position before rising (and so fitting in the lift switch bay), the print head moves to the backside of the lift switch bay (if it's "up" at that time, this motion will knock it to the "down" position) ?? When moving the lift switch up and down (automatic or manually via the menu options) or doing a lift switch test, does it work right?

Hi, first point, i suggest you turn your text-color to an eye-friendly black, als this (50%?) grey is very hard to read (no offend, just a proposal) ;-). This flat nozzle tip IS unusual and absolutely not correct. It reminds me to reports of other people, who printed with abrasive materials, which eroded the nozzles and made them unusable (that's why hardened steel nozzles and ruby nozzles, like the CC Printcore, exist). The tip of your BB Core looks as it should be. So, in my oppinion, the worn is to be replaced with a new one. Usualy the UM3(E) is shipped with two AA cores and one BB Core. Is the second AA still available? Greetings.

CPE is a little more heat-resistant than PLA (up to 70°C), CPE+ is said up to 100°C (I've not used CPE+ so far, only CPE), but with water temparature up to "hand warm" (starting temp, no heated bath) i never had problems with after-print warping.

Nein, oberhalb der Mitte ist weniger Federspannung, je tiefer die Anzeige, desto größer ist die Federspannung (siehe z.B. hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52504-clean-the-feeders) Grüße

Hi, I've read somewhere at the Ultimaker-Homepage, that the water used to dissolve PVA should only be up to 30°C, but they recommend use of cold water. Greetings

Afaik the flow sensor is integrated in the feeder's housing and not in the printcore. So it does detect positiv material flow, which is correct.

Hi, some markings on the filament after passing the feeders, like shown here: is ok and shows that spring pressure is set correctly. Tension indicator ad middle position is a good starting position. Is it possible that your filament is blocked by some reason (for example tangled on the spool or similar)? Greetings

Hi, looks a bit like under-extrusion. Is your nozzle ok and your feeder-tension set correctly? There is a good troubleshooting-guide at the Ultimaker Homepage, possibly it helps. Regards.

Great work! Fortunately my 3D-Glasses lie ready to use besides my keyboard (old Red/Green type, but works perfectly with your pics)

And not to forget the possible layer-resolution of 20 micron with the UM3, which exceeds most SLA-Printers - and of course the Prusa with its layer-resulution of just 50 micron.

... by the way: a front door (like the one in the Advanced 3D Printing Kit from Ultimaker) is highly recommended for successful printing with ABS.

To problem 1: ABS ist known for a weeker layer-adhesion (and weeker layer-to-layer-strength) than other materials like PLA etc. I know some users change the printing parameters (temp., speed?) to improve the layer-to-layer bonding. Possibly one of them is in this forum? To problem 2: I use the Ultimaker Adhesion Sheets on the glassbed of my UM3 and have nearly no problems with warping (but sometimes with week layer-to-layer strength, while i use the Ultimaker / Cura approved default settings). And they can be used SEVERAL times till they need to be changed. Greetings

Hallo, die Informationen sind ein bißchen spärlich, vielleicht hat deshalb bislang noch niemand geantwortet. Wie groß ist der Versatz? Ist er in x- und y-Richtung gleich oder unterschiedlich? Ich habe mit Zweifarb-Druck bislang noch keine Erfahrung (nutze Extruder 2 nur für Stützmaterial), aber soweit ich weiß kann Versatz zwei mögliche Ursachen haben: entweder die beiden Druckdateien sind nicht richtig zusammengeführt (in CURA), oder die Kalibrierung der Druckköpfe ist nicht korrekt ausgeführt (werden die bei Auslieferung mitgelieferten Druckköpfe verwendet, oder nachträglich dazugekaufte?). Zur Kalibrierung der Druckköpfe siehe S. 31 im Ultimaker 3 Benutzerhandbuch. Immer derselbe Versatz bei verschiedenen Dateien deutet aber wohl auf nicht korrekte Kalibrierung hin. Grüße E. Ultimaker 3 manual (DE).pdf

Resonance -or vibrations in general-, possibly caused by the layout of the print, may be able to move the printer in "Y-direction", because it sits on its side-panels, on four nearly skid-shaped surfaces. And traveling over the edge of the table, gravity will do the rest... I had an eye on possible vibration-related movement of the printer (UM3) since first use (about 1 1/2 years ago), but since i made a set of these: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3059433 from TPU, there is -till now- no movement of the printer at all - and a lot less vibration.