Enigma_M4

Hi, according to the lever, you also could just print a new one, for example this improvement: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod I used it on both feeders and loved it, until I upgraded the feeders. If you exchange your feeder with a new one (and are not afraid of very little tinkering), you also could upgrade to the S5-Feeder(s): The costs for the S5-feeders are about the same as for the UM3 feeders, and the upgrade also contains abrasive-resistance and the filament flow sensor. Regards

@IRobertI and @Dim3nsioneer already answered faster than me. The only problem I see with these data is that they are deleted by a factory reset, a DF-Reset or the unbricking procedure.

Hi, if you're running UM3s or S-line printers connected to your network, you could also refer to the printer's API (entering the printer's IP-adress in your browser). In the statistics tab there's much information about successful and aborted print jobs, used materials and material combinations etc. Regards

Hi, that's what the notifications bell (upper right, besides your avatar and the PM-envelope) is meant for. In the notification settings (press the bell) you also can set which type of event is shown by the bell and/or by E-Mail. Regards

The feeder issue can be solved by "upgrading" to the S5-feeder (first version), which also includes the flow sensor. I don't know how the activation of the "abrasive resistance feature" in the firmware works for acceptance of the CC cores or material profiles, but there must be a reason for this firmware entry... Perhaps someone from Ultimaker (possibly @SandervG or @CarloK) could bring some light into the darkness? Regards

I'm glad I could help.

Hi, of course you can. That's the reason why the UM3 originally is equipped with one BB and two AA cores (the second AA core is meant to replace the BB Core if other material than PVA is printed). Regards By the way: it is possible to print PLA with the BB Core, but it is not recommended because of oozing.

Hi @BirBikram, fbrc8 is the official Ultimaker distributor for USA, so it should be your first choice if you're from USA. And @fbrc8-erin is very active and helpful in this forum. Regards

Hallo, das was Du suchst dürfte mit "Pause at hight" (in Cura zu finden unter "Erweiterungen -> Nachbearbeitung -> G-Code ändern") zu machen sein. Einzelheiten kann ich Dir jetzt leider nicht mit auf den Weg geben, bis auf den Tip, einfach mal auf youtube zu suchen, da gibts gute Erklärungsvideos, wie zum Beispiel das hier: Grüße PS: erstellte Scripts bleiben so lange aktiv, bis sie wieder entfernt werden, also auch über mehrere Programmstarts hinweg.

This answer is also valid for the UM3 (as it's mentioned in the tags, I suppose the problem is with an UM3). For detailed instruction see: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-How-to-calibrate-the-Lift-switch-on-the-Ultimaker-3 Regards

Hi, to your main question: afaik the print core cooling is controlled by firmware only. The fan runs 100% when one core is hotter than 60°C and is off at 59°C and below. If this material is so heat conductive, it possibly can (must?) be printed at lower temp. Here possibly doing a temp tower for examining the coldest possible print temperature could be reasonable? Regards

Hi xuyao, the temparature graph can be found in the printer API. Your UM3 just has to be connected to your network, either by WIFI or Ethernet. Type the printer's IP-Adress into your browser and in the appearing menu select "temparature graph" (should be the lower left point). Regards

Das würde dann aber bedeuten, daß höchstwahrscheinlich der Druckkopflüfter (der mittlere, in der Abdeckungsklappe) nicht funktioniert. Wenn der Lüfter bei Drukkopftemperaturen von 50°C und höher nicht automatisch anläuft, haben wir den Schuldigen. Entweder ist der Lüfter mit Filamentfäden zugesetzt oder (wenn der Wartungsplan, https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011597119-Ultimaker-3-maintenance-schedule , eingehalten wurde, wahrscheinlicher) es könnte am Kabel liegen.

...hier sind die Beiträge, die ich oben erwähnt hatte: und Grüße

Das Upgrade, das @orlin278 erwähnt hat, hat nicht nur den Vorteil der leichteren Bedienung (schon fast S-Line-Feeling), sondern zugleich eine längere, und damit verbesserte, Filamentführung im Vergleich zum Originalhebel. Und hier im Forum gibt's mehrere Beiträge, in denen Extrusionsprobleme auf verschlissene Originalhebel zurückzuführen waren (das Filament hat die Öffnung ausgeschliffen und sich dort festgesetzt). Also ein weiterer möglicher Grund für das Ursprungsproblem, dem nachzugehen sich lohnt. Ich selbst hab' den modifizierten Hebel lange benutzt, bis ich auf den S5-Feeder aufgerüstet habe: Grüße

Hi hako, personally, I've no experience with the CC ruby printcore, but IF the original caused similar problems as you described, I bet this forum would have been flooded with corresponding complaints, what's afaik not the case. So it should work flawlessly. Regards

For the Win7-fans outside there (like me): it's possible to run Win10 in a virtual machine (instead of upgrading the whole Win7 system). Although this workaround looks like TARDIS (inside bigger than outside), the new Cura 5.0 is worth it 🙂. Regards

Thank you, @nallath, for the info. Although it's no good news, especially for participants of the Win7 extended lifetime program, it prevents me from wasting time trying to bugfix.

Hi, I can't start Cura due to the error message "api-ms-win-core-path-I1-1-0.dll missing", followed by "Error loading Python DLL '(path) python310.dll' LoadLibrary: module not found"

The upper end of the scale is least tension, the lower end is most tension. the plug with the indicator sits ontop of the tension spring and is pushed down against this spring by the set screw. What do you mean with jacking? Is the stepper motor skipping (this would be a sign of to much tension), or is the filament slipping (to little tension)? Do the markings on the filament look like this? https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012112759-The-feeder-of-my-Ultimaker-2-go-extended-is-ticking-back-skipping As I'm getting at my wit's end, adjusting the tension gradually to the point where the filament is extruded through the nozzle and the feeder has a good grip is the only thing I can suggest. Regards

For the UM2+ / UM3-feeder and newer, the middle position is told to be the best, and as the UM2 feeder is very close to the UM3, I'd say try middle position. Light markings on the filament show good tension. If the markings are very deep, reduce tension (scale: up), if it's grinding the filament (like your starting problem), the tension might be too lose, referring to CNC Kitchen's video. Regards

This little metal collet belongs where the filament enters the feeder housing. the larger part looking down (outside the housing), the smaller part up.

See this foto: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f1ZVlOl_YcY/UuoslXKMBGI/AAAAAAAADhU/aeLFzASDtCQ/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG Regards

As I wrote in my first post, the set screw is the culprit. At your feeder, the head of this screw is exposed outside the feeder housing. But this screw head must be INSIDE the feeder, just below the hole it's sticking out, as seen on the foto of your manual: If this screw is positioned right, it's supported by the top of the feeder housing and screwing it "out" will increase feeder tension, meaning the indicator going down. Your actual feeder tension is zero.

actual video to this topic by CNC Kitchen: