GregValiant

Maybe. Sometimes is works. Make sure you have a data-capable USB cord (some phone cords are just for charging the battery). In Cura - open the MarketPlace in the top right of the screen. It takes a minute to load. Click on the Installed tab and scroll down to USB Printing and make sure it's marked as installed. Then close Cura. Plug your printer into the computer and then re-start Cura. Load a model and after a minute or two Cura should notice the printer. After you slice the "Slice" button will say Save To Disk. There should be an arrow on the right end. Click on the arrow and see if one of the options is USB Printing. If it is then click on it. I can't remember the rest but you should go to the Monitor screen and you can pre-heat and print from there. Possibly. I can print to my E3Pro that way. I'm not fond of it because USB Printing is glitchy as it is no longer kept up as no Ultimaker printers use it.

Not in Blender...in Cura. Above all the Cura settings is a search box. To the right of the search box is an icon with three lines on it. Click on that icon and set visibility to "All". Then go down to the Mesh Fixes section and make sure "Remove all Holes" is de-selected.

The most common reason is that in the Mesh Fixes settings "Remove All Holes" is enabled. Both "Remove all holes" and "Make Overhangs Printable" are for very specific conditions that don't come up often. Neither setting should be enabled unless you have a model that really needs them.

When I slice it I'm not seeing any problems. Can you post a screenshot of the problem layer(s)? EDIT: There is a bug report on Github #11258 regarding this sort of behavior. What operating system are you using on that computer?

The problem I have is that I only speak English. I have no idea if a translation is correct. Since I answered your exact same question on GitHub, and since there is no Russian sub-forum here, I will answer it again. I hope the translation is correct. Это проблема TEVO, а НЕ Cura. Из файла определения TEVO Black Widow: "has_materials: false" Вы должны вернуться в TEVO и попросить их изменить файл определения, чтобы разрешить использование материалов. Если вы откроете «tevo_blackwidow.def.json» в текстовом редакторе и измените его на «true», вы можете добиться успеха. As far as I know; all of that might be a recipe for borscht.

This has come up recently but when I looked through the posted Gcode file there isn't any problem. Somehow the printer is jumping the feedrate to over 800%. What printer are we talking about here? If you open the gcode file with a text editor (like MS Notepad in Windows) and search for M220 I'm sure you won't find one like M220 S810 which would tell the printer to change the feedrate to 810%. M220 is the only Gcode command that alters the feedrate percentage (the Global feedrate) of the printer itself. There is something going on the printer or firmware that is causing this. As I recall, even a firmware reset didn't help that other poster and when I printed their gcode file with my E3Pro it printed just fine.

You have gone to "Settings | Printer | Manage Printers | Machine Settings" and within the lower left textbox of the Machine Settings dialog labeled "StartUp G-Code"; there is no line that says "G29" that you can add a semi-colon in front of to comment out? Everything pertaining to your printer is contained within the printer definition files. The definition for the CR10S loads in the following order: fdmprinter.def.json (the base definition file for all printers in Cura. If you add a custom FFF printer this is the definition used.) This was written by Ultimaker and contains this generic StartUp Gcode: G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0" creality_base.def.json (loads for all Creality printers and was written by Trouch.com). It has this over-ride for StartUp Gcode: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up creality_cr10.def.json (loads for all Creality CR10 printers and was written by Trouch.com) There is no over-ride for the StartUp Gcode. creality_cr10s.def.json (loads specifically for the Creality CR10s printer and was written by Trouch.com) There is no over-ride for the StartUp Gcode. @litprints - what I see in your gcode snippet is that there are no purge lines, and there is a G29 in a line that the definition file leaves blank. It appears to me that your StartUp Gcode has been altered from what is in the Cura definition files for a CR10s. Now...within the creality_CR10max.def.json file is this over-ride for the StartUp Gcode: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home G29 ;Auto bed Level G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up My assumptions from all of that is: The CR10s as delivered does not have ABL but if ABL is added then something might over-ride the StartUp Gcode and add the G29 line (and remove the purge lines). The CR10MAX comes with an ABL system and so the G29 line is added to the StartUp Gcode from the definition as written by Trouch.com. But the CR10Max definition still contains the purge lines. I am a simple user. I have one printer and it is a Creality Ender 3 Pro. I don't know for certain, but I'm fairly confident (99.999999%) that Ultimaker did not add some sub-routine to Cura that checks to see if the active printer is a CR10S and if it is, then add a G29 into the middle of what should be the StartUp Gcode from the definition file. Why would Ultimaker care to mess around and add the ABL command to a printer when they have no idea whether or not it has an ABL system? I load a lot of 3mf files as I do my little detective work around here (it's my contribution to the "community"). I have to be very careful when opening a 3mf that includes an Ender 3 Pro because I have a custom StartUp G-Code (and custom End Gcode) that I don't want over-written...and it would be if I allowed the 3mf to "update" my printer. I always select "Install New". I end up with a lot of installed printers and have to go through them and do some deletions from time to time. My best guess as to what happened is that at some point you opened a 3mf file and your StartUp Gcode got "updated". Either that or someone has altered your creality_base.def.json file.

The only difference between the Ender 3 definition and the 3Pro definition is that the 3 has "disallowed" areas for the clips that hold the bed down. They are annoying and make the "printable area" a lot smaller in the Y direction. When Creality wrote the definition file they held the build area to 220 x 220. If you put the nozzle 2.5mm in from the left edge of the build surface, and 2.5mm in from the front edge of the build surface and then drop the Z to 0 you can then use the "Set Home Offsets" command on the LCD followed by the "Save Settings" command. Then go back into Cura in the Manage Printers / Machine Settings and make your build plate size 230 x 230.

I do know the printer and their #1 problem is a gap forming between the end of the Bowden tube and the back of the nozzle. You will need to disassemble the hot end and clean out the plug of melted plastic. This needs to be done every once in a while and I do it before any long print. Consider getting a Micro Swiss hot end. They are more consistent and need less maintenance. The rule about cleaning it still applies though.

Use the Ender 3 Pro. On the right side of the dialog you can change the name

"Never upgrade an operating system." - Me Something won't get the memo. There will be hidden complications (but you have already learned that). Anything that uses the word "Bootloader" automatically sucks. You can change the firmware when you can point to specific features you feel you need and that you don't have now. My printer has 1.1.8 but it is an Ender 3 Pro with 1.1.5 board.

I was typing this and got called away.. I think you may have a leak either at the nozzle, or above the heat block where the heat break screws in. Pull the cover off the hot end and see if there is a build up of plastic down the sides of the nozzle, inside the silicone insulator, or on top of the heat block. If there is (and I'm suspecting there will be) it is easy to remove the plastic from a warm hot end using a pair of tweezers. Just be careful not to hurt the wires for the hot end or thermistor. If the leak is from the connection on top then you will have to disassemble the hot end to tighten up the heat break. Some people have had success wrapping the heat break threads with PTFE tape used to seal pipe joints in propane gas systems. I prefer thermal paste as it takes up the spaces but doesn't impede heat transfer to the heat sink. PTFE tape is yellow instead of the normal white teflon tape used for most threaded pipe joints. Remember that the bowden tube should be in contact with back end of the nozzle to create a seal there. The end of the bowden must be cut exactly square to make that seal. Printing "bling" for the printer is excellent practice even though a lot of it is useless. I believe my design for a baffle for the power supply on the Ender 3 Pro is the absolute most useless piece of bling ever created. I like it.

I accept. We'll see how it goes here in a little while. Be advised that I am a known cheater.

"Also, I would recommend people NOT to use post-processing scripts at all, or only use it when you know what you are doing. Maybe make it an Expert only section for instance, that you can only access when you start Cura in Expert mode?" Ouch! Probably 90% of what I've learned about Cura has come from experimenting with things. It's how I went from not knowing anything to knowing just enough to be dangerous. There are visibility settings that limit a users view, but not their access, to commands. A user can select from 4 levels of settings visibility. I have two post-processors that I almost never shut-off. By experimenting with the ".py" files I was able to alter them just a bit to make them more in tune with what I need. My personal PauseAtHeight is configured to fill in all the boxes with MY defaults rather than Cura's generic defaults. I don't know much about Ultimaker printers but I'm fairly familiar with the Chinese crap (excuse me) printers. Some don't support G2/G3 and some do. Some don't support M0, or M1 but some do. As far as I know most printers do not support a command that would query the printer and inform a user regarding exactly which G and M commands are actually enabled in the firmware.

Here is a horrible little model that we'll call "Supports 201 Pop Quiz". There is one orientation that is better than the others, however it requires that you modify the model and turn it into an assembly BUT it isn't necessary to do that, simply more convenient. I'll call it "extra credit" if you figure it out. There is a clue in the model. Be advised that you will have to post your solution here in order to earn your grade. A 3mf file will suffice. There is an expert here who has come up with a variety of test shapes. Maybe @geert_2 has a diabolical one he would be willing to share. GV_SupportShape.stl

A screenshot, a photo, a project file. Above all the settings is the Settings Search box. Type in Coasting. It is under Experimental.

I picked up a microscope at a garage sale. When I first started printing I was having problems and I was running around different websites reading and trying to figure out what I was doing and I was chasing my tail. Then I thought about the microscope sitting on a shelf and collecting dust. Ah Ha! Then I could see what the heck was going on. The chances of coming across a $3 microscope aren't good but a decent magnifying glass can be a good tool to inspect a print with. When you look at a flat surface and it has ridges then it's over-extruding. If you can see gaps between the extrusions so you can see the layer below then it's under-extruding. Vertical walls are pretty useless for troubleshooting because they look decent at a wide range of flows. They will show speed and acceleration problems better. Here is my newest version of a calibration shape. I was playing with ironing. This was at my standard settings (75mm/sec, 35 for outer walls, .2, .4, and flow was 100%. Yes, it says Bite Me on the side. (It's my calibration cube and I can make it look however I want.) This from my Ender 3 Pro (8 bit mainboard and Micro-Swiss hot end).

The polka-dot areas indicate problems that Cura detected with the model. If you have the Mesh Tools loaded from the MarketPlace the tools will be available when you select the part and right click. There are a couple of pretty decent model repair tools in the menu. If the model needs more extensive repair you would need to go to different software or use an on-line service like https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair. Some modeling errors confuse Cura because the software can't tell if it's looking at the inside of the model or the outside.

It's under "Special Modes" and the setting is actually called "Print Sequence". The options are All at Once or One at a Time.

It's really hard to know what you're talking about. A screenshot, a project file, even a gcode file would be helpful. Do you have Coasting enabled? That will look like a gap in the preview because there is no extrusion during the coast portion of a move.

So your flow is set to 100% (and NOT 79.56%) and you are getting all that under-extrusion? That should not be happening at 100% flow. Have you taken the hot end apart? The bowden tube needs to be right up against the back end of the nozzle. If there is a gap there then retractions can (and will) pull material into the gap and cause a partial plug. It isn't enough to cause "missed steps" on the extruder but it can certainly be bad enough to cause under-extrusion. The bowden tube itself is a "consumable". As the X moves back and forth the tube will rotate in the fitting on top of the hot end. As it rotates the little blades in the fitting chew up the outside of the tube and although it can't pull out, it can back away from the nozzle. That is why every once in a while (call it 30 hours of printing) the bowden will need to be removed from the hot end and have 5 or 6mm cut off with a nice square cut. The nozzle also needs to be removed (heat the hot end before trying to remove it) and a proper sized wire (you can probably find a 1.7mm metal coat hanger that is just right) needs to be pushed down the hot end to push out any plug of plastic that might be in there. Then you can put the nozzle back into the warmed up hot end and leave the nozzle about 1/2 turn from tight. Then push the bowden back in to seat it on the nozzle, and finally carefully tighten the nozzle to make a seal with the bottom of the bowden tube. In regards to Flow: Calculating flow is really easy. When the volume of any extrusion is exactly equal to the amount of filament required for that volume then flow is 100%. To say it another way - when [Volume Out] = [Volume In] then the Flow is 100%. Setting it at some number a lot less than 100% will definitely cause under-extrusion. My filament measures exactly 1.72mm diameter and that is what I have input into Cura for my custom PLA. My Layer Height is .2mm and my line width is .4mm. Given those numbers, if I have an extrusion that happens to be exactly 29.04mm long then that extrusion needs exactly 1.00mm of filament. Not 0.7956mm.

I don't think it's Cura or nobody would use it. Did you post the file that was on your hard drive(?) or the one from the memory card? I would suggest that you format that memory card. It may have bad sectors and so the gcode gets written incorrectly. If it came with the printer then copy the stock files to your hard drive before formatting the card. It could possibly have been something strange in your settings, but Cura knows better that to drop the Z below a previous print height. If you can re-create the settings you used when that happened and then use "File | Save Project" to create a 3mf file with all the information in it, and post that 3mf file here that would be helpful. Post that Gcode file too (if you still have it).

Oh...here is my super special calibration shape. It's good for seeing how your printer makes corners and goes around curves. You can bring it into Cura and then scale it in the X and/or Y to stretch it into a different shape and see how different speed and acceleration settings affect the print. If you print it with 2 walls and Infill Density = 0 and no top layers then you won't use up a bunch of material playing around. GVCalibration_Shape.stl

It should show up as part of the slice. There are a lot of settings in support and one of them is "Touching Build Plate" or "Everywhere". If you use Normal support on that model it will build a rectangular support structure BUT if that base is part of the model (and it appears to be) then if you have the supports set to "Touching Build Plate" then the support structure wouldn't be built because it would need to grow from the top of the base. In that case, switching to Tree supports (which grow at angles) might fix the problem. Just keep playing with the settings. Things line "X/Y distance" and the "Z distance" and the "X/Y overrides Z" option make a difference when the supports need to grow next to a sloped surface. Supports can be tough to remove and usually leave scars when the support material is the same as the print material. PLA doesn't stick to PETG very well and so PETG could be used for the support and it will break away easier. There is also water soluble support material available. With my single extruder printer I'm stuck building support with the same material as the print. A set of Exacto knifes and a set of small pics (or dental tools) along with a micro-file set and a pair of needle nose pliers can really help.

This one first sets the Z height and then extrudes to X200 ;G0 X10 Y20 F6000 ;G1 Z0.8 ;G1 F300 X200 E40 G1 F1200 Z2 ;This one is OK as it just raises the Z. The line that has the "E" in it is the extrusion line. The Startup gcode sets your machine up to print. The Gcode list @ MarlinFW.org is the full listing of the G and M commands. You should look up the ones you have there so you understand what is going on and the order it is happening.