GregValiant

The model has a lot of surfaces that are facing inside-out. It needs to be repaired. In Blender check the color of all the surfaces that show up red in the Cura preview. I think you can flip them around there. The model is made up of a bunch of sub-models. They all have errors.

Sadly...it's true. We here at Muppet labs have been secretly working on the UM lawnmower project for several years. A little known clause in our contract is that we can reveal some of the design studies that were discarded along the way. This is the UM G1. We put this design forward as an effort to combat global warming by staying away from fossil fuel use. It turned out that goat droppings are a major contributor to greenhouse gases. The operators didn't care much for the design either. The main complaint was that it was only workable when going downwind. Back to the drawing board and we came up with this alternative to the G1. This is the prototype of the UM-Anti-Thesis. It seems that the wide turning radius made it impractical. The nickname of Anti-Christ may not have helped. In an effort to shorten the wheelbase (and this post) we have here our most recent failure (it was Beeker's fault). This was proposed as the UM All-In-One. We had thought a retro look reminiscent of Auto-Union race cars would garner us some support. We were wrong. Again. Everyone thought the chrome push blade was a nice touch but it just wasn't enough to "push" (clever pun eh?) it into production. Unfortunately the creeper speed of 100kph made it impractical as stopping at the end of the driveway was problematic. We thank you for wasting time reading this interesting post, Dr. Bunsen Honeydo Head Mucky-Muck Muppet Labs

Exactly. All the instructions the printer needs are in the file. When first starting out, the #1 thing that people struggle with is getting the first layer to stick to the build plate. Some folks like glue stick, I use Aquanet Super Hold, other folks print on blue painters tape. But getting a good first layer down is the key.

Detroit Michigan. We've been here in Florida for 7 years. GTOLover - are you sure you are getting the KISS principle? I'm thinking that having to deal with an IP address doesn't fall under "keep it simple". It's why I went back to a cheap flip phone.

To send the Gcode over the USB? It's the Slice button. There should be an arrow on the right end. The usual options are "Save to Disc" or "Save to Removeable Drive" but if USB is an option then it will also be available as an option on the arrow. The rest of the stuff is on the "Monitor" page. Come to think of it, you can preheat from there. You can send simple commands like G28 to auto-home but there is no provision to display the printer response.

There is a lot to this 3D printing thing. I've been working with Gcode since the late 1960's when I was at Fisher Body. It was the first GM facility to get a CNC mill and the friggin' thing was the size of a LARGE locomotive. It was 1" paper tape and punch cards. Things have moved along a bit but Gcode is Gcode and serial communication has gotten faster but hasn't changed all that much. Another thing that hasn't changed much is K.I.S.S. Life is much easier just putting the gcode file on an SD card and sticking it in the printer. That way when "all the confusion jumps up" there is less to have to stare at and try to fix.

"Like it stopped printing after the first half, then started over." That sure sounds like a hot end problem. You may have gotten a plug of plastic between the end of the bowden tube and the back end of the nozzle. One of the symptoms is intermittent under-extrusion. You will certainly want to disassemble and clean it out and trim 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube. The cut must be very clean and as close to a 90° square cut as you can make it. The bowden tube is meant to make a seal at the back of the nozzle. I always clean mine out before a long print...just in case. If you designed that model and you don't want to split it then I would suggest a removeable support to make it a "T". The screenshot shows a thin 1.6mm thick piece sticking out of the middle of the top edge, then a 1.6mm thick piece 100mm wide that touches that first piece to complete the T. Post-process would involve cutting the support off. A problem with bed slinger printers is tall models with small footprints. The acceleration in the Y can break the print loose from the bed. Besides making custom supports, you can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for the line "LAYER:400" and add a line M201 Y250. That will limit the Y acceleration within the printer from layer 400 up. You can pick whatever layer you want to make the change at. You will also need to add M201 Y500 at the bottom of the gcode file and just before the line "End of Gcode". That will reset the Y accel to your default (per the definition file). That low of an accel will keep the part from jerking around, but will slow down the print speed. To keep that low accel setting from having a big negative impact on time-to-print, place the model so the X axis is doing the long paths and the Y is doing the 5mm short paths. Your part is sticking out to the left, then there is a little piece 1.6mm wide sticking out of what is the top edge, and then there is the 100mm wide 1.6 piece. I picked 1.6 because with a .4 nozzle it's two laps around.

I took another stab at it. It still isn't going to look like monokote though. GV_WINGTEST_profile3.3mf

Within that particular model are 9 pieces. In particular, the curved ribs on the inside are not connected to the top or bottom of the wing. There will be starts and stops on those pieces because there is no continuity with the other pieces. Those Z seam indicators on the wing bottom are starts and stops because of the internal pieces. In those cases it may be because the combination of two single walls coming together don't make it clear which one should take precedence. (I tried to slice it in PrusaSlicer, but I don't know enough about it to get the settings dialed in. There were missing parts and missing layers.)

Ha...I knew you were kid. I've got you by 4 years. I'll try and explain. I know you are new at this and some of it is either overwhelming or just confusing. Please bear with me (you impetuous youth). There is no real need to pre-heat the hot end or bed from the LCD control. The temperatures will be in there. The StartUp Gcode may contain temperature information for the hot end and bed. If it does not, then Cura will add the temperature lines to the Gcode. It does that so there is no inadvertent Cold Extrusion. Within the "Printer Settings" group are a couple of settings that apply: Wait for Build Plate Heatup Wait for Nozzle Heatup You absolutely want to wait for the nozzle. Maybe the bed not so much. When the printer starts reading the Gcode it will come to the bed temperature, then the nozzle temperature. When they are both heated up to the Initial Layer temperatures you had set in Cura, then the real part of the print will start. Gcode files are just text files and can be opened in Notepad. You will see the M140 and M190 for the bed and the M104 and the M109 for the hot end temps. If you have an Auto Bed Leveler then there are things that can change the timing of the hot end heat up so it doesn't drool across the build plate during leveling. It would be something like: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start to heat the bed to the initial layer temperature M109 S150 ;heat the hot end and wait for it M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the bed to hit the temperature. G28 ;Auto-Home G29 ;Bed Leveling M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;now heat the hot end to the initial layer print temperature and wait for it. In that snippet, I've used "replacement patterns" which are variable names used in Cura. When the gcode is created, Cura will replace the names with the actual settings. So the bed starts to heat and then the hot end starts to heat. Because the hot end command is the M109 then no more Gcode will be read until the hot end is at the temperature. Since I've only let it get to 150 there should be no oozing during travel. G28 is auto home, and then the G29 (yours may be different) is the Auto-Level routine. When that gets done the Hot End is ordered to heat to the printing temperature. Because you have the Dual extrusion setup then your StartUp Gcode may be different. The Extruders are referred to by "T" numbers and your Extruder #1 would be "T0" in the gcode and Extruder #2 would be "T1" in the gcode. M104 S210 T1 indicates that Extruder #2 is to heat up to 210°.

They look like cylinders with no tapers. My guess is that you missed it in the model, or it just didn't export from Fusion correctly. A screenshot from Fusion showing the missing features might be helpful as they don't appear to be in the STL file. It's tough to tell what I should be looking for. When I opened the STL and placed it in a vertical orientation, the smaller piece was not on the build plate. I moved it down but that didn't have any effect on the lack of any taper, or helix.

I am not sure what you mean. You brought a model into Cura, sliced it, and when you hit the save button on the lower right that message came up?

If you are older than me it can't be by much or you'd be in the ground. There have been a few folks come in here with questions about printing thin wall models for RC planes and drones. I'm sure you will have questions. I found this LINK on the BIBO SITE. It says it is the settings to use in a slicer and Cura was one of the slicers listed.

The moves are supposed to be efficient. What exactly goes into the efficiency calculation I don't know. If Cura's planning includes the best place to be before continuing onto the next area is then it makes more sense. I read around here someplace that figuring out the motion and optimizing it is one of the tougher aspects to programming within Cura.

That is a lot better. The "single position probe test" is interesting. The probed switch repeatability would seem to be +/-.008. If the regular bed probing numbers are within that tolerance across the surface that's about the best you can get with the equipment you have. It's time for you to print something.

I'll take a stab at this. It would be good if you would go to Machine Settings and copy your StartUp Gcode and paste it into a response here. Without it I have to guess (and that is never good). It looks like your StartUp Gcode is configured to heat T0 to print temperature while heating T1, T2, and T3 to the material standby temperature. My guess is that T0 is going to print the skirt/brim/raft and so is the Initial Extruder. You could alter the StartUp Gcode to insure that all are at printing temperature if that is what is required. Right now you may have something like: M104 S{material_standby_temperature} T1 if it was: M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T1 ;then it would heat to print temperature, but it would not wait. M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T1 ;would wait for it to get hot, but you would be waiting a while as each extruder would heat in turn. If your power supply can handle it then... M104 S{default_material_print_temperature} T0 ;Start to heat M104 S{default_material_print_temperature} T1 ;Start to heat M104 S{default_material_print_temperature} T2 ;Start to heat M104 S{default_material_print_temperature} T3 ;Start to heat M109 S{default_material_print_temperature} T0 ;Wait M109 S{default_material_print_temperature} T1 ;Wait M109 S{default_material_print_temperature} T2 ;Wait M109 S{default_material_print_temperature} T3 ;Wait would start to heat each hot end in turn, and then wait until each had reached printing temperature before continuing with the rest of the StartUp Gcode. You could enter additional M104 lines to allow the hot ends to cool to the standby temperature and finish with the extruder that will be used first; M104 S{material_standby_temperature} T0 ;Cool M104 S{material_standby_temperature} T1 ;Cool M104 S{material_standby_temperature} T2 ;Cool M104 S{material_standby_temperature} T3 ;Cool M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T{initial_extruder_nr} ;Heat the initial extruder Without knowing what you have now I can't be sure but I think the above is in the ballpark. Wherever you end up, it won't be really simple.

1. Get to know the printer. You've been playing with it, but really get to know it and how to adjust things on it. 2. Open any Gcode file you have created with a text editor program like Windows Notepad and look at the code. Each line is a single instruction to the printer. Lines that start with a semi-colon are "comments" and are ignored by the printer. In a line like "G28 ;Auto-home" the command ends at the semi-colon and everything following is a comment. "G" commands are generally movement commands, but some are printer setup commands (G21 tells the printer that the location numbers in a gcode file are metric). "M" commands change settings in the printer. M104 sets the hot end temperature and the gcode will move on while M109 also sets the hot end temperature but will wait for the temperature to be reached before continuing. Take some time to peruse the List of Marlin Firmware Commands paying close attention to the ones that you see you your gcode file (like G28, G29, M140, M201, etc.). You need to have at least a passing knowledge of what they tell the printer to do. It makes troubleshooting a lot easier. 3. Cura is not a simple piece of software. It is my preference for a couple of reasons - it is highly "customizable" and it is just plain good at what it does. Take some time to navigate around Cura and all the Menu items and their sub menus. Cura is modular and you can load extra pieces to it. When you check "Extensions/Post-Processing/Modify Gcode" you will find that it brings up a dialog box. The Add Scripts button will bring up a list of things that can be automatically performed after Cura has sliced a model. For example, Pause at Height will stop a print and you can add a nut, change color on an extruder, that sort of thing. The MarketPlace button will (eventually) bring up list of other things that can be added. There are different shaped support blockers, and other utilities available for download. In particular one of them is the "Settings Guide" and another is "Printer Settings". I suggest that you load both of those. Yes you can leave most filaments loaded. The caveat is 90% of filaments can absorb water from the air. PVA and Nylon are really bad and even during printing they should be in a humidity controlled box. I print mostly PLA and PETG. They can be left in place on the machine. I'm in Florida and it is always humid so once in a while I may need to dry a roll. If you have a USB connection then you can do some things from Cura. It is not the best "Print Server" out there. If you are on Windows then I have an option that I wrote. It does not send the Gcode over the USB, but rather controls the SD card printing from the connected computer. Everything you might need to do from the LCD (like pre-heating, Auto-Homing, simply moving the print head around, and adjusting settings) can be done from the software. I hate that stupid LCD knob. Above the list of print settings is a search box. Just to the right is an icon with 3 lines on it. That tool is "Setting Visibility". Click on it and set it to "All". Between the popup descriptions and the Settings Guide you should get a handle on what everything is capable of. There is a fellow on YouTube that has some pretty good "getting started" videos. CHEP and he calls his shows Filament Friday. He's pretty good and although he is Creality centric the information will cross over to your Bibo. Speaking of Bibo, I asked which model you have because different "dual extruder" printers need to set up differently in Cura. An IDEX printer may or may not be useable with Cura. A 2-in-1-out machine gets set up differently than a dual extruder-dual hot end printer does. The second extruder can be used alone (disable Extruder1) or it can be used with a different material (like water soluble PVA) to build support for the main model. If you have multiple models you can print one with Extruder1 and the second with Extruder2. If a single model is made up of different meshes (multiple pieces making up a single model) then each mesh can be set to it's own extruder. On Thingiverse you can find Benchy boats that are multi-mesh and so can be printed in multi-colors. They are good to practice on. Cura will understand that both extruders are enabled, and when to switch between extruders. The extruders need to clean themselves out when they are switched to. That usually means a purge tower where the nozzle can go and dump some material. That is more important with 2-in-1-out hot ends but is needed at least a little bit on a dual extruder - dual hot end printer. In the Cura workspace on the lower left will be two buttons "1" and "2". When you select a Mesh (a model) in Cura you can then select which extruder to use for it by clicking the appropriate button. Study the gcode commands. Cruise around Cura and get to know where things are. Set the Settings Visibility to "All" and get to know what's available. You will probably need to calibrate the E-steps for both extruders. Start with simple models and work your way up. Sending a print over the USB is sketchy at best. The preferred method is the Octoprint and Raspberry PI combination. I'm attaching Greg's SD Print Tool for Windows. It's a simple interface that you can use to send some commands to the printer and to print from the SD card that is inserted in the printer. It is "unsigned" and if you decide to install it you will need to get it by your anti-virus software. I have a full version but it's more complicated and I think you have enough on your plate to last a bit. My fingers are tired and it's time for another cup of coffee.

Is that in Cura or on the printer? All the temps and flow settings in Cura are in the Material section. There may be a Bibo group on Reddit or support at the Bibo website that can be more help with the printer.

Most of the rectangular bed printers have the Origin at the left front corner. When you "Auto-Home" the printer it most likely is at 0,0,0 and Cura needs to match wherever that is. If it's in the middle of the bed, then it is an Origin at Center machine. The printer will take the numbers from a gcode file and put that files 0,0,0 origin at the Home Offset position defined in the printer. If the Home Offset is not defined in the printer, then the print won't be in the exact center of the bed. I don't know what you mean by "what mm to set the extrusion to". GTO on the other hand is "Gran Turismo Omologato" which in English translates to "Gas, Tires, and Oil". I had a drop top 1965 Goat with the 3 deuces and a 4 speed. Nice car. It's amazing to see one today and to notice how big they were compared to todays cars. I'm big on stupid sayings and here is one of my own "The 389 Pontiac V8 will see 6000rpm exactly once in it's life". Now if you are talking about being a Ferrari GTO lover then I can't help.

Even if you were to use Lines or Grid for an infill pattern, the path will jump around a little bit in what (at first look) seems to be a dumb path. The path is actually optimized to keep the total amount of movement down. Another setting you should think about changing is the combing. Right now you have it set to "Within Infill". Try the different options. Since it's a speaker enclosure do you really care what the top skin looks like(?) or are the walls more important.

They make several models. Which one is it? If you load a model (calibration cube or benchy will work) and set Cura up to slice and then use the File | Save Project command and post the 3mf file here someone will take a look.

It requires MS Excel because the VBA of AutoCad doesn't have a file opening dialog. It's also written for Acad 2000 which is what I have. If that will work then let me know and I'll see what it takes to make it portable. Right now it calls other functions within the project. I'd need to move those and adjust the dialog box it uses.

I've never found it to be a problem that shows up in a print. It can be noisy and annoying though. Have you tried enabling Z-Hops? The default is .2mm but I've found that at .5mm it will go over most little pimples and things that might stick up above the working Z height. The actual setting name is "Z-Hop when retracted" so the Retraction Minimum Travel and Max Combing distance must be set correctly or a retraction won't happen and consequently a Z-Hop won't happen. You might also try Connect Infill Lines. I like that one because it really cuts down on the number of retractions.

Most likely at Tronxy3d.com. The definition files for 3rd party printers come for the community or from the manufacturer. It may be that the definition file is in the pipeline but won't make it into Cura until the next release.

The 3D toolpath is a bunch of lines in space. It will contain Travel Moves and maybe Wipe moves and Z-Hop moves, if it is a dual extruder situation then Cura may have adjusted the X and/or Y coordinates to include the extruder offset numbers. Then there is the offset due to Line Width. Consider a calibration cube 20 x 20 x 20 sliced with a 0.4 line width. The outside wall paths in the X and Y would measure 19.6 x 19. 6 (1/2 line width short all the way around) so it wouldn't be correct to try to make a model from that. (I've done that when all I had was a gcode and I had to design that part to fit with another part. It's no fun.) I wrote a macro for AutoCad that will read a gcode file and render it in Model Space. The result looks like the model, but it isn't a model. Yesterday I started to alter it so it would read an Arc Welded gcode that was for a Dual Extruder printer. It's not going well (it works but it was processing 600 lines/sec and now it's down to 60lines/sec.). If you have the STL file then there are conversion utilities (like THIS ONE...you need to create a free account) to turn it into a DXF file that most CAD software can open. The resultant structure (which is not a model) will be comprised of triangle shaped objects rather than parametric bodies or 3d solids. It can be rendered into a colored body and it is the same size as the STL (rather than having nozzle width offsets). So yes, it might be convenient but I really don't see it happening.