GregValiant

@Smithy, my crystal ball also needs some work. It is currently stuck with some little girl inside who is talking about her "Auntie Em". If I send it out for maintenance should I consider a Gypsy repair service? Checking reviews on Facebook they would seem to be the best. This is an old photo. That's my first wife on the right.

Yes, the app requires a USB connection to send commands to the printer. It doesn't print over the USB but it does tell the printer what file on the SD card to print.

You can open that gcode file in a text editor and alter the E value to "E100". 10% of 100 is easier to see (and measure) than 10% of 10. There is an E calibrator included in the "Greg's SD Print Tool" app I've attached below. If you feel like installing it then unzip the file and run the setup. You will probably have to fool your anti-virus as it is unsigned. (I would add a signature but that costs money). If you don't care to install it that's OK too. Happy New Year. Gregs SD Print Tool.zip

"I should have paid attention to the units..." I missed that until you mentioned it. The setting in Marlin is M205 and the units are mm/sec.

I believe that is because the end isn't considered part of the bridge. It is considered part of an abutment that on that particular model does not exist. A "bridge" exists between two abutments and you only have one. I don't believe that shelf would print at any rate as there is nothing for the plastic of those movements to stick to and so the extrusions would simply loop back around to the main body of the model and hang vertically as they solidify. Cantilevers happen all the time and always require support. An alternative would be to add a chamfer to the model on the underside of the feature so it would not require support (or bridging). All that being said, when you have situations that aren't covered by the "normal" software settings then hand coding some things can help. You can find that area in the gcode and kick the fan up to 100% with an M106 S255 and lower the feed rate with M220 S20 before the movement and M106 S0 and M220 S100 after the movement. I still think it's going to sag though as no matter what you do with feed and fan - it's still air printing.

"Extrusion: can't be severe under extrusion, I made 4 days ago the wall test and was really precise with a 90% of setting." This is your photo. The yellow arrows indicate gaps between the lines of extrusion. That is plain old under-extrusion. The red arrows are showing that an "extrusion up and extrusion back" aren't as bad and you can see that throughout the print. That is an error and is likely mechanical as those lines should always be "Line Width" apart and any under-extrusion should be even gaps on either side. "...with a 90% of setting" Did you use a "single wall" or "double wall" calibration cube to calibrate your flow? I have posted some really good rants about my feelings regarding calibrating that way. Calibrate your Esteps (if possible on your printer) and you are done. Single and double wall calibration tests are misleading at best as the situation rarely occurs in real life. Let the print talk to you and what that print is saying is "Hey, I'm really under-extruding here!".

You have ticked the setting "Relative Extrusion" in the "Special Modes" section? Cura should be adding an M83 right after your start gcode.

@dtose - you aren't confusing Jerk with Acceleration are you? Jerk is typically 5 to 50mm/sec. I think of it as the "speed around a corner". 480mm/sec would be well over print speed. Acceleration on the other hand is usually 100mm/sec² to 10,000mm/sec² depending on the mechanical capability of the printer. The default Accel and Jerk on my Ender are 500 and 8 respectively.

The Heartbreak of Psoriasis. The motion looks like it was correct but it certainly didn't bond to the layer. When I zoom into that picture there are gaps between all the regular extrusions. That is an absolute indicator of under-extrusion. You need to fix that before moving onto adding the ironing stuff. If it is possible to do so - have you calibrated the Esteps on that printer? Cura needs to have the correct (exact) filament diameter entered as well (Ex: my 1.75 filament from Matter Hacker is always 1.72mm in diameter. It makes a difference).

Since it's one of those "other" printers I'll take a shot at this (although I may be mistaken on some points). I don't have 4.4 loaded but on Windows the printer definition files can generally be found in three folders under the "...Program Files\Ultimaker Cura x.x.x\resources" folder. The actual definition file(s) will be in the "definitions" folder. There may be a base definition file as well as a specific definition file for the printer. Example: "creality_ender3pro.def.json" inherits "creality_base.def.json". The extruder files will be in "extruders". You should have two extruder files for a dual machine. If the printer is defined as "having variants" then the nozzles will be in the "variants" folder. There would be a nozzle file for each size of nozzle. You can copy the pertinent files from the 4.4 folders to the same folders in the newer version of Cura. The Tenlog should show up in the "Add Printer" dialog. If you originally set up the Tenlog as a Custom FFF printer then you would have to alter some definition files and maybe create some others. It's a bit tedious but certainly isn't difficult to add an extruder to a definition file. It's what I have done to create multi-extruder machines when folks come here with problems on machines they have customized beyond what the stock definition can handle. For the most part you add "overrides" to the definition file Extruder Trains and maybe copy an extruder file while making a couple of changes within the file regarding the extruder number and name. If you do make adjustments or add any definition files they will not be part of any newer version of Cura. You would need to copy and paste them in again. I keep copies of my custom definition files in a folder of my own and when I update Cura I copy and paste them over. It works for me. An alternative is to use a different Dual Extruder printer definition that is close to the Tenlog and then alter the machine settings so they work.

For ironing, the nozzle needs to smooth the plastic that is already there and add a tiny bit to fill in the gaps. I would think that at slower speeds the heat from the nozzle would have a bit longer to act on the surface (before it passes by) and do a better job of softening the plastic. Having the fan off while ironing a surface might help as well. It isn't something I've used much as I'm more of a structural/product guy. The lab chief here at the Ultimaker Forum is @geert_2. Maybe he's done some experiments with ironing?

The regular nozzle will work fine. I think the main setting is the Flow% for ironing. If the layer went down with some slight over-extrusion and the Ironing flow is set too high then the nozzle can act like a bulldozer and push around the plastic that is already there and that will leave ridges. I would start with the default 5% and see how it looks.

Is that an MP10 or an MP10 Mini? Measure the bed size and if it's about 200 x 200 it's a mini and you will need to adjust Cura. Click Settings | Printer | and down at the bottom select "manage printers" and then "machine settings". On the left side of the dialog you'll see X(width), Y(depth), Z(height). Fill those in with the actual dimensions of your printer to make Cura match what you actually have. Remember that you need a safety border around the periphery of about 3mm so adjust the X and Y measurement accordingly. Don't worry about the numbers on the right. Those come into play when you print multiple objects and use "One at a time".

I've written a Windows app that I think does what you want. It isn't for printing via USB but rather for controlling SD card printing from a connected PC. Gcode commands can be sent and the responses received and are displayed in a text box. It has other functionality (tuning a print on the fly, bed leveling, macros) as well as some odd post-processing ("cooling profile" is one) that I added because I could. It is more an alternative to PrintRun (which interface I don't care for) than anything else. The full version begat a smaller version which just functions as a print utility with leveling commands but you can send one command at a time and receive and display the printer response. Greg's Toolbox is the full monte and includes instructions (such as they are) and a readme for installation. Greg's SD Print Tool is the Cliff's Notes version. This one has just a readme as the program itself is pretty self-explanatory. They are un-signed Windows apps (VB doesn't port to Linux or Mac) so you would need to fool your anti-virus/firewall in order to install either. The opening dialog looks like this. In this case I have a print running. The gcode for it was post-processed with both a M117 to message the display and an M118 to bounce the same info back to the textbox in the app.

Load a calibration cube or benchy in Cura, set it up to slice, then select "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here.

I think the only way to change the file size is to make the model smaller or reduce the resolution. MS 3D Builder has a "Simplify" tool in the Edit menu that reduces the number of triangles and I'm sure there is other software that can do it as well. Both models have errors and both are just shells. They slice but I think when printed they would fall apart or be so delicate that removing the supports would break them.

Yes it's better. Sometimes progress has to be measured in baby steps. Are you ignoring the lower portion of the model in your testing or is that how thick it will be? I ask because when I tested I turned support off and sank the model into the build plate even though I was sure there would be problems because of that. The lettering is looking much better and it's still only 1 nozzle width wide. I still think it would look good with a color change for the lettering to give it better definition. "The only way to get a finish like 12 coats of hand rubbed lacquer is to paint it with 12 coats of lacquer and hand rub it." - Me

C'mon man! No pictures, no STL file, no project file, no nothing. Is it a secret?

What 3D printer? Are you able to print sample files that came on the memory card? If you are you trying to print over the USB do you have the correct Com Port drivers installed? Do you have a correct USB cable (some are for battery charging only)?

This is from your gcode file: ;max_x(mm): 47.098 ;max_y(mm): 48.098 ;max_z(mm): 49 ;min_x(mm): -46.818 ;min_y(mm): -48.101 You can see that there are negative numbers present. Your printer is trying to get to them but cannot. Go to Manage Printers | Machine Settings" and see if you have "Origin at Center" selected. If it is then un-check the box and slice again. Delta printers have the origin in the center but 99% of cartesian printers have the origin in the left front corner.

It's hard to tell from pictures but areas of that print look under-extruded and other areas look good, and still others look over-extruded. Check your belts to make sure they twang like a bass guitar string. Also check the trolley wheels on the X and Y. There should be no wobble of the bed or print head carriage and you should just be able to turn any wheel with your fingers. Sometimes the hot end can get loose as well. You can tell I'm thinking mechanical here. I think you have inconsistencies in the location of the nozzle (but I'm far away and don't see as well as I used to).

"Extra priming sounds like a "patch" or a "workaround"." Yes it is. It's the bigger nozzles that can benefit from it as they tend to ooze more when traveling (especially on large "horseshoe" shaped prints). They are also less prone to leaving a blob when the extra prime comes in.

You are talking about the park position at the end of a print? In your "Machine Settings - End Gcode" you can add: G0 X0 Y{machine_depth} at an appropriate location within the End Gcode. It is an Absolute move so you need to make sure that if there is a G91 in your end gcode that you place the line after the following G90.

Because every gcode file is different you are going to be stuck customizing each one. There is no "Easy" button. The Search and Replace is the simplest and since the Search and Replace plugin accepts multiple commands you should be able to do it without too much pain. Search = ;LAYER:125 Replace = ;LAYER:125\nM106 S255 and then another instance of Search and Replace: Search = ;LAYER:126 Replace = ;LAYER:126\nM106 S0 By taking "LAYER:xx" out and then putting it back in you can search the gcode easier to make sure it's all good. If your firmware supports M32 you may be able to have a standard routine that you can call. You would still need the Search and Replace plugin to get the M32 calls into your model file. Search = ;LAYER:125 Replace = ;LAYER:125\nM32 P !FanOn.gco# and another instance of Search and Replace Search = ;LAYER:126 Replace = ;LAYER:126\nM32 P !FanOff.gco# FanOn.gco and FanOff.gco would be gcode files in the root directory of the SD card. They can contain whatever you want to run. M32 is supported by Marlin on my Ender 3 Pro. I'm not sure about other printers and firmware.

Is the print in the middle of the build surface?