GregValiant

Did you turn on "Print as Model" for that grouping? Can you select the blocks using Control-LeftClick? Can you UnGroup that model? You can stretch and scale a Support Blocker like you can a model. You probably could have done all that with 2 or 3 instead of a hundred.

The purge line(s) are in the StartUp G-Code. Click on Settings / Printer then down at the bottom is Manage Printers and then click on Machine Settings. In the lower left window is the startup gcode. The purge lines may be noted like... G1 X1.0 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move G1 X1.0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line if you put a semi-colon in front of the lines they will be comments and the printer won't pay attention. ;G1 X1.0 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move ;G1 X1.0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

I tried to print that file. Good luck. When I aborted the print (E motor was skipping steps) and the nozzle rose - about 40mm of filament escaped before the pressure fell off and that was after a 5mm retraction. Good luck with it. As I said, I'm going to stick with what works. .2 layer height and .4 line width for most stuff and at 75mm/sec with 35 for the outer walls. I do use .6 line width when I'm using Vase Mode because the prints are stronger.

Well, probably not. In this case your question really is "Can Cura do simple math?" It's one of those things that people call into question when their settings don't work. I'm not saying Cura doesn't have some bugs in it (in fact I know it does) but at the heart of the matter, calculating the amount of plastic to deliver for any specific extrusion is really very easy stuff. Cura knows the volume of the extrusion and it knows the diameter of the filament. Solving for the mm's of filament is a piece of cake. As your research has shown, that simple math evolves into complex equations when the rate of pressure buildup and the rate of pressure fall-off in the nozzle come into play. The math, mechanics, thermodynamics, material science, and other disciplines required to describe filling that little rectangle (or oblong if you prefer) below the nozzle is both very simple and very complex. It can be unrelated things as well. Did you check the nozzle for burrs on the inside diameter before you put it in service? What is the angle of the countersink between the 1.80 upper ID and the 0.4 ID of the lower portion? The speed of the material through the nozzle causes little things like that to come into play. Is your thermistor accurate? The one on my bed and the one on my hot end can't even agree on room temperature. The two things I know for sure are that "Entropy always increases" and "100% of the PLA produced on the planet will end up in landfills.".

I don't think it's just the slopes. It's hard to tell with white filament but it looks like the under-extrusion is pretty consistent all over. Have you calibrated the E-steps? If so then you have all the flow rates in Cura set to 100%? (If you say "No" and it's because you used a single/double wall calibration cube then I will not be happy.)

The box needs to be checked (I think the backslash character makes it necessary). If you remove all the "\r" and just leave the "\n" it should work. When you search for a long specific snippet like that the chances of it failing certainly go up. Have you attempted to put that move at the end of your startup gcode? If you use Cura keywords as: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} G0 X210 Y90 F7200 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} Cura will see that the temps are being set in the startup gcode and so will not add the temperature lines prior to the startup gcode. (M105 just sends a temperature message back to a print server (if you are using one or printing via USB. If you aren't then you can leave it out.)

I always look at it with a "jaundiced eye" when one of those types of blurbs is on a site touting their own products. Settings like they are taking about might be possible with their $169 "Pro" hot end. The chances of one of those ending up on my $197 printer are not good. I did experiment with line width and layer height when I got started. Now I just stick with what works for me.

I saw the PM but I'll answer here. What I think is: That's a really long bowden tube! Bowden systems are simple and cheap to produce. Any of the softer filaments are going to have problems with a bowden system. My Ender 3Pro HATES TPU. I print some things with it because it's fuel proof and makes good gaskets, but flat gaskets is where I stop. I'm printing at 10mm/sec with 0 retraction and I have to stand there to maintain the loop coming off the spool and lube the filament once in a while. PITA. DD's add weight (sometimes a lot of weight) to the X. That has to be accelerated and decelerated constantly during a print. Cura itself doesn't have an option for using different acceleration settings on X vs Y but an M201 X300 (or something) in the startup gcode would keep the heavier print head from beating up the printer on starts and stops. Also, that extra weight is cantilevered off the X beam and so the front side is going to want to droop unless you are meticulous in maintaining the print head carriage wheels and belt. Over on Reddit there are constant posts regarding problems with DD systems. I think a person with some decent mechanic skills would not have problems and the DD can certainly be tuned in. In regards to PETG - it's soupy. With the limited retractions possible with most DD's I don't know if you can pull back enough material to keep it from being stringy. With your current bowden setup (and considering that it's about a mile long) you might need to go to 7 or 8 or 9mm of retraction in order to pull back the filament a couple of mm's at the nozzle. There is a lot of slop in a bowden system that long. I haven't been 3D printing all that long but one thing I know is true - throwing more money at a problem doesn't guarantee that it will be solved.

This has come up before. I can't remember if it got figured out or not. With that model loaded in Cura and with Cura set up and ready to slice use "File | Save Project" and then post the 3mf project file here.

This is the last thing to try. M203 sets the max feedrate for the printer. Unfortunately, it gets applied to both G0 (Travel) and G1 (Print). If you put it into the front of that "bad little gcode" it should limit the top speed of the printer. I would think adding it as the line before ;LAYER:0 should work. M203 X40 Y40 As I said, that will also limit the travel speed to 40mm/sec. It may give you another clue as to what is going on.

I don't think the problem would be specific to the material. If you are out of other options and the problem occurs with PLA you might try to reset the mainboard with M502 followed by M500. If the mainboard saw some of that heat it may have caused an issue.

I adjusted the temperatures in that file so I could print it in PLA. There are no issues at all.

Your build plate is defined in Cura as 300 x 300. What does your build plate actually measure from edge to edge?

I went through the Gcode file. All the extrusions are at 40mm/sec and the jog from one extrusion to the next is at the travel speed of 80mm/sec. (Cura speeds are in mm/second while the gcode speeds in mm/minute.) This is the Infill in Layer:21. ;TYPE:FILL G1 F2400 X127.156 Y149.58 E1183.7912 G0 F4800 X127.513 Y150.119 G1 F2400 X133.762 Y148.444 E1184.00638 G0 F4800 X133.762 Y149.511 G1 F2400 X114.811 Y130.56 E1184.89778 G0 F4800 X116.15 Y128.317 G1 F2400 X133.762 Y123.598 E1185.50422 This is in Layer 82 (I picked it randomly). G0 F2160 X125.244 Y120.457 ;Wipeout (90% of print speed) G0 X124.597 Y120.038 ;Wipeout G1 F2700 E2808.09505 ;Retraction at 45mm/sec G0 F4800 X124.705 Y119.871 ;Combing at 80mm/sec G0 X125.126 Y118.112 G0 X126.339 Y117.503 G0 X142.389 Y109.433 G0 X142.982 Y109.135 G0 X142.773 Y108.664 G0 X143.071 Y108.59 G0 X143.207 Y108.833 G0 X144.043 Y107.718 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F2700 E2814.09505 ;Un-Retract G1 F2400 X144.378 Y107.644 E2814.10646 ;Print at 40mm/sec G1 X144.561 Y107.607 E2814.11267 ;Print at 40mm/sec G1 X144.043 Y107.718 E2814.1158 ;Print at 40mm/sec G1 F2700 E2808.1158 ;Rectraction at 45mm/sec Once again the print speed is 40mm/sec and the travel is at 80mm/sec. The skirt is printing at 13.5mm/sec but from what I see you had "number of slower layers" = 2. I don't see a problem in the Gcode that Cura generated. I'll think about it, but right now I don't see a way that the speed can be fluctuating like you have observed. The printer is supposed to do what it's told. One thing you can try is to shorten the file name. I know that seems odd, but it has been an issue with CR-10's and if your printer has the same mainboard (and it might) then maybe it will make a difference.

What version of Cura? I read your other post BTW. The travel speed should not be related to the infill speed. It isn't in my installation of 4.12.1 at any rate. Post a gcode file that shows the problem. Let us know what printer as well.

Your long print time is because you have the infill at 100% density. To the upper right of the Save to Disk button is an (!) icon and after slicing if you hover the mouse over it there will be a breakdown of where all the time is spent. At 100% infill, all the infill is considered "Skin" and that is where the vast majority of the print time is. There are different things you can do. I'm including a couple of 3mf files. Open them "as project" but don't allow them to "update" your printer as they can change settings. You should see a white dropdown button that says "Update...." click on it and select "Create New". You can delete the extra installed printer later. The GV_ThickWall.3mf file shows your part with two "mesh modifiers" that change the wall count for the gear teeth and provide 5 walls to make them stronger. (see the 2nd image below). The GV_2Piece .3mf shows the sprocket split in two parts with locating holes in each one. The Axle Hole doesn't require support when doing the model like this. For assembly, you would glue pieces of filament into the 2mm holes in 1 part and then locate the second part on the filament "Locating Pins" when doing a full glue job. I'm just showing this to get you thinking. Yes - At lower infill density, the infill isn't very strong. In the image below: the infill density is at 10% but the "Infill Line Multiplier" is set to 3. You can see that the infill is fairly robust. We are back to an 11hr print though. This is Layer:62 with 3 walls, 10% infill, Infill Line Multiplier = 3 and the Infill Layer Height is 2X layer height so it only prints the infill every other layer. That speeds things up. This is from the 3mf file I've attached and it uses two Support Blockers as Mesh Modifiers with the wall count = 3 to beef up the gear teeth. The infill is 10% with line multiplier at 1. In this image you can see that the teeth are stronger but the infill is basically just to hold up the top skins when they print. FDM often requires that you set aside the normal design considerations in favor of what is necessary for a good FDM print. If you print a kitchen table with the legs on the build plate it will take forever. If you print it upside down then it won't require any support and will print much quicker. Still slow mind you, but quicker than right-side up. GV_ThickWallDriveSprocket.3mf GV_2PieceDriveSprocketBase.3mf

The filament change should be added. It's only a single line of code. Check that the layer you are asking to stop at is a "legal" layer and not above the top of the model. Layers within the gcode file are Base0 and in the Cura preview they are Base1. If you ask for a filament change at layer 10 then within the gcode the change will occur just before gcode Layer 9 prints. Including Layer:0, Layer 9 is the 10th layer in the gcode file. It would look like this: M600 E30.00 U300.00 X0.00 Y0.00 Z5.00 ; Generated by FilamentChange plugin ;LAYER:9 All that being said, Creality made what I consider to be mistakes in the firmware. M0, M1, and M117 send messages to the LCD and they either were not enabled in the firmware, or more likely, the TFT type LCD was configured incorrectly and won't accept messages from the commands and so are ignored by the printer (that's the "stops for a few seconds" problem as the printer did receive the M109 temperature command and takes 10 seconds to decide it's OK to continue). M600 is not enabled on my Ender 3 Pro. G2 and G3 are probably not enabled on your printer (maybe because of high memory overhead) and so the ArcWelder plugin will not work. In Pause At Height try using M25 instead of M0 and see if that works. If M25 does not work, then you will have to use a G4 S333 command in "Gcode after pause" (where the S parameter tells the printer how many seconds to pause for).

I might have some suggestions. What printer? Does it have the stock firmware? Are you running Octoprint? What are the Xwidth and Ydepth as noted in Cura? What are your Home Offsets? How big is the model? If you post a 3mf Project File it will contain some answers. Without knowing anything at all about your printer or how you set it up, it's impossible to provide guidance.

Well it's good that you figured it out. But I still don't get it. I could understand if it refused to print the file, but starting the print and jumping the feed rate to 900%? That's just dumb. BTW the limit was 16 characters on the 8 bit boards like I have.

When I slice the file the only speed settings in the gcode are 120mm/sec for travel and 50mm/sec for printing so I don't see any problem there. That also means there is no problem with the StartUp Gcode. One thing you can try (and that you should do) is to put the following lines at the end of your StartUp Gcode: M220 S100 ;reset feed rate M221 S100 ;reset flow rate Those are handy in case you tune a print while it's running and forget to reset the feed and flow when the print is done. With those in the StartUp Gcode a print will always start with the feed and flow at 100%.

In Cura go to "Settings | Printer" and down at the bottom will be "Manage Printers". With your printer active go to Machine Settings. On the bottom left is the StartUp G-Code. That code sets the basic printer settings including the purge lines you see on the left side when a print starts. Look and see if there is an M220 in there. If there is it should be M220 S100 (for 100% feed rate). Only M220 will have an effect on the print speed you see in the tune menu and on the LCD. You can post a "bad" gcode file here. The best troubleshooting file is a 3mf project file. In the File menu there is "Save Project" that will save the entire Cura setup and include your printer, the model, and all your Cura settings.

Those are so tiny that they fall below your settings and are ignored. (That is doubly true for the ones supporting the clip overhangs.) If you just adjust the Y widths on the tall ones, and make the little ones bigger in both the X and Y, and make an adjustment to the "Per Model" settings (see below) they will slice. And now (since I've put some time into this) I will critique the design. Those lock tabs ARE going to break off. The reason is that the layer adhesion won't be strong enough to resist the forces they will see. Removing the support will also be problematic. I would suggest you go with #2 sheet metal screws instead. I know, you have to get a tool to assemble or dis-assemble, but it will work repeatedly whereas the tabs may not work even one time. The back sides of the tabs have a square bottom and would require support. If they had a 45° chamfer they would not require support. With some adjustments to the support settings - this is the support that Cura provides with no "Custom" support structures. That would be my preference on this model. There is the tall skinny support being generated for the backside bottoms of the tab structure. I think I would use support blockers there as tall skinny support structures often fail.

I believe you did an "Export" instead of a "Save Project". They both create 3mf files but an Export is just the model whereas a Project File contains everything you have within Cura at the time. So try again using "Save Project". FDM is not a fast process. You can push the nozzle size, and the print speed, and some other things but at the end of the day it just isn't fast. I know there are a lot of long prints out there. My personal record is a 32hr print immediately followed by a 22hr print. The two parts make up the tour pack on the back of my motorized bike.

Load that STL in Cura. Set up everything the way you like. Use the "File | Save Project" command to save it as a 3mf file. Post the 3mf file here. A project 3mf file has your printer, the model, and all the settings in it. I get 6:11 minutes for print time. There are several settings that affect print time. If you have dense infill it can take a lot of time to print.

Hello @r0dnay and @ahoeben. My one and only printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro. From what I've come across here and there on various sites, Creality made a decision to take both Marlin firmware, and Ultimaker Cura, and fork them into proprietary versions. Marlin can't support users who have problems with Creality firmware because no one at Marlin knows what Creality has done in their version. The same is true with Cura. Creality has no doubt made changes to their version of Cura and so neither the in-house team at Ultimaker, nor the independent contributors (and AHoeben is a primary contributor) know what Creality has done because Creality doesn't share. They aren't the only ones either. Lulzbot and others have done the same thing.