GregValiant

The A30T appears to be a really big A20T. With that in mind I made a couple of changes to the A20T definition file. If you download the file below, unzip it, and copy "geeetech_A30T.def.json" into the Cura definitions folder (on my Windows computer it's C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1\resources\definitions). Start (or restart) Cura and the A30T will be available to install. If and when you update Cura you will need to copy the file into the new version's definition folder until someone decides to add an official definition to Cura. You've embarked on a voyage with a large learning curve. There are a lot of settings you will need to dial in yourself. The dual extruding A20M and 3 extruder A20T printers are much the same as the A30T as far as operation goes. You should learn what the commands M163 through M166 do. They are the ones that allow you to mix the colors and use additional virtual extruders. geeetech_A30T.def.zip

I use Inventor's predecessor Mechanical Desktop. Occasionally, when I perform a Union the pieces aren't exactly surface to surface. It's really hard to see in the CAD software but a slicer will notice that and create a boundary at what it deems to be a gap, or will end up with a gap where there should be a seam. If you go over the model and check your sketches and constraints and any suppressed features then you may find the problem. So from what I've been able to see, the model slices exactly as it should but not as you intended.

I opened the model in MS 3D Builder. There are errors in the model that the program was able to correct. The center section is almost like a separate model. There is a top surface and a bottom surface on the interior and that's why Cura is filling it with infill. I think that Cura is working as expected. This is the repaired model and it clearly shows that there are three sections to it. and here it is with PrusaSlicer (which called the model "unprintable").

Support Blockers can be configured in different ways. Put your model back together. The icon above the Support Blocker button is for "Per Model Settings". You can add a support blocker. Scale it and move it where you want, set the Per Model setting to "Modify Settings for OverLaps". Leave it as an Infill Mesh. In "Select Settings" go through the list and add "Infill Density". Set that to your 95%. The rest of the settings (wall count, top count, bottom count, etc) will be zero. The Support Blocker here is now a Mesh Modifier to change the infill of the area it overlaps my model.

I'm right at the bottom of the list of people around here for coding but within the gcode a ";TYPE:SKIN" is a skin whether it's on the top or the bottom or a fill for an angled feature that is trying to maintain wall thickness. So searching for TOP or BOTTOM won't work. It would take as long to make a list of layers and to hand code each occurrence of the "bottom of interest" as it would to just print the thing at the lower speed. Then there is the outer and inner walls that go around the "Bottom of Interest". I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Maybe someone else will have a different take on it. I seem to recall that there was a request on Github for a new feature that would split Top/Bottom speed into two settings. I don't know what the Cura team has in mind about that. That wouldn't really help a lot in your case but post-processing might be a tad easier. It would have to be easier than manually adding 300*2 M220 lines. It would be really easy to get bored and make a typo or ten. Good Luck.

The initial layer is Layer:0. The raft layers are negative numbers so your first slow layer would be the first layer of the part. In higher layers then yes, that setting wouldn't work for you. Instead, you can find the layer (minus "1") in the gcode and manually add an M220 command. (M220 S50 would tell the printer to compute all of the speed entries at 50%.) At the next layer you would add M220 S100 to return the printer to 100% feedrate. The Search and Replace plugin will accept multiple commands as replacement text so long as they are separated by "\n" (backslash+n) the new line character. You would want two instances of Search And Replace active. (Extensions menu, Post-Processing | Modify Gcode and then Add a Script). So you are looking at your preview and you see that at layer 29 a feature starts on top of the support and you want to slow down to 33% for it. (Again - remembering that Cura is base 1 and gcode operates from base 0: Search = ;LAYER:28 Replace = ;LAYER:28\nM220 S33 (By putting the "LAYER:28" comment line back in the gcode it remains easily searchable.) The next instance of Search and Replace might be configured: Search = ;LAYER:29 Replace = ;LAYER:29\nM220 S100 For each layer you want to slow down for, you can add two more Search and Replace instances. One will reduce the speed at the layer of interest, and the next will return the speed to 100% at a later layer.

There are at least 3 ways. I think this is the one you are looking for. In Speed - set the "Number of Slower Layers" to 1. That will make the "Initial Layer Speed" setting visible and you can enter whatever you like for the first layer.

There are various programs that will edit the STL or whatever model format it's in. You could create a triangle shaped object .8 or 1mm thick and weld it in (usually called a Union). That model is pretty low resolution though. Every surface would be made of large facets so a lot of flat planar areas.

The model is watertight, but there are problems. A lot of character models are scanned or developed from 2d representations. Scanning in particular depends much on the software that translates the 3d point cloud into a model. In this case, one problem is at the shoulder where there is a gap between the collar and the hair. The gap causes a very narrow wall and Cura is having trouble slicing it. The cape is a problem in a lot of spots. Here is an image of the bottom portion. You can see the gap and the single wall extrusions that are basicly hanging in air (when sliced with your printer and settings). That would print, but would come off with the support. So there are going to be issues when you print this. I switched from your printer to my Ender and even with a .1 nozzle that area is not good.

I have written my own tools that I use in AutoCad and Excel and they do a fine job of deciphering and comparing gcode files. Without the files I really can't help.

If you could jumper the wire to the nub you might be able to fool it for a bit. The vibrations from the machine could be a problem though. You wouldn't want it to quit part way through. Those models are ambitious. I know you'll do your usual terrific job and even Asgard will be impressed. That isn't my favorite Loki though...

Just to remind you sir...you can't fix a short by lengthening it.

There are tools called Pin Sets (because there is more than one size in the set) that are sized to stick into the plastic multi-plug and allow the brass contacts to be pulled out. Then it's just strip and solder. You may be able to remove them with a paper clip or a dental tool. Each brass contact has a tang on the back that seats in a depression inside the plug and needs to be released to allow the contact to be pushed or pulled out. To re-assemble just push them back in in the correct orientation so the tang gets seated again. Needless to say - get the correct colors into the correct holes. Those other wires don't look so good either.

Post that FlashForge gcode file and the one from Cura. A comparison might reveal why the Cura print is under-extruded. There have been other posts regarding FlashForge printers and Cura and I don't know if it's been figured out yet or if it's even possible. Some companies just want you to use their slicer. What diameter filament does the FlashForge use?

Click on the profile name in the main screen. Down at the bottom are options: Create...Will take you to the dialog where you can make a new profile. Update...Will add the current over-rides to the existing profile. Discard...Will throw away the current over-rides and revert to the settings in the profile. ----- Manage Profiles...Will take you to the regular Profiles settings dialog. If you have already created your new profile then make the changes you want and select "Update..." and your current settings will become the profile settings.

If there is no M106 in the file then the problem is before the printer. Open a text editor program and paste the snippet below into a text file, then save it as a gcode and print it. It will exercise the fan at 20 second intervals. If the fan responds correctly then the problem is elsewhere. M106 S255 ;fan on full M117 FAN 100% ;message to the LCD G4 S10 ;20 second wait M106 S0 ;fan off M117 FAN OFF ; message to the LCD G4 S10 ;20 second wait M106 S127 ;fan at 50% M117 FAN 50% ;message to the LCD G4 S10 ;20 second wait M106 S0 Regarding the layer movement - Gcode tells the printer where to go and what to do. The variable layer thickness (like with Adaptive Layers) is no different than any other movement command. If your layer height is .2 then the Z will be told to move .2. If the command is a different layer height then that gcode command might tell the printer to move the Z 0.1. The gcode might look like this... ;LAYER:0 G0 X0 Y0 Z0.2 ;lots more code ;LAYER:1 G0 X0 Y0 Z0.3 ;lots more code ;LAYER:2 G0 X0 Y0 Z0.5 In that example - the first layer is .2 high, the second layer is .1 high, and the third layer is back to being .2 high. The printer should just go where it's told to go.

"I have created my own printer profiles for my printers. However, this is also associated with a considerable amount of maintenance..." Amen brother.

When I opened your 3mf file I immediately sliced it with no changes and the gcode was correct with: ;LAYER:0 M106 S255 So the setting "Initial Fan Speed" = 100% did work. I changed the setting to 50% and to 0% and the gcode was also correct with M106 S127.5 and M107 respectively. In that gcode snippet you posted there is: ;LAYER:0 M107 Which seems to indicate that you had Initial Fan Speed set to 0% for that slice? Try installing another instance of your printer with a different name and try slicing with the new instance. It's possible there is a glitch in your installation of Cura, but only affecting a single setting like that is odd. What version of Cura are you using? I am attaching a 3mf file of your model with some altered cooling settings. When I slice that file the gcode has 17 lines with M106 as the fan speed bounces up and down due to Minimum Layer Time. GV_3cmparalelipiped.3mf

I installed a Chiron in Cura and set up cooling the way you have it and it looks to be working correctly. Right under Layer:0 I get M106 S255. With a model loaded and your settings the way you like, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.

What does FlashForge have to say about it? Do they want you to use their slicing software?

It looks like the fan should be coming on at layer 2. If you search the gcode file is there an "M106" in there? M106 S255 would be the cooling fan at 100%.

I open a LOT of project files (from here and Github) and many will have been created with an Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro as the active printer. I look close at that as I don't want my printer over-written. In the Open Project dialog you have options. You can "Update" your printer and that will over-write your printer with whatever is in the project file. You can also "Create New" which will use whatever definition file was used in the project and add it to your list of printers. In the image below you can see that "Greg's Ender-3 Pro" is on the list of possible Updates. I always look and when necessary (which is quite often) allow Cura to "Create" a new printer. The same is true for Profiles and Materials...you can Update or Create New. I go through and clean out the printers, profiles, and materials once in a while or I'd be swamped.

You have a couple of incorrect keywords in there. Cura knows to add the numbers, but no longer understands what they mean. This is from the LIST OF KEYWORDS put together by FieldOfView / @ahoeben. {print_temperature} Alias for material_print_temperature (deprecated, do not use) {print_bed_temperature} Alias for material_bed_temperature (deprecated, do not use) {travel_speed} Alias for speed_travel (deprecated, do not use) So you need to make changes: {print_temperature} should be {material_print_temperature_layer_0} {travel_speed} (or now speed_travel) is in mm/sec and the gcode setting is mm/min so G1 F{travel_speed} comes out as G1 F100 instead of G1 F6000. You will need to hard code that speed in because there are no keywords for speed in mm/min (although it has been asked for on Github). Change that line to G1 F6000. I am assuming you don't have a heated bed (Cura didn't add an M140 temperature setting) so making those changes should suffice.

So NASA needed to come up with a pen that would write in zero G so the astronauts could keep notes. They spent $5 million dollars and solved the issue by placing a small pump inside the pens. The Russians used pencils.

In Cura and in the Preview, click on your printer name, then Manage Printers, and then Machine Settings. Look at the Gcode Flavor. If it is set to Marlin/Volumetric and your printer does not have "E in mm³" selected, then there will be bad extrusion. Alternatively, if the gcode flavor is Marlin and your printer has "E in mm³" turned on there will also be bad extrusion. The printer and that setting in Cura must match. Under "Extruder" check the filament diameter. Next, click on your "material" and at the bottom is "Manage Materials". There is a filament diameter setting there as well. I think that the Material diameter overrides the Extruder but I'm not sure. If you have the Marketplace plugin "Printer Settings" loaded (good idea) there is a filament diameter in there too. They different filament diameter textboxes aren't all separate, but I'm not sure of which takes priority and which are simply mirroring another textbox someplace. That should give you something to (at least) eliminate as the cause.