GregValiant

Under "Language" the top option should be English.

Z-hop is an option for travel moves. When the printer stops extruding in one area and moves to another you can elect to have the nozzle jump up by an adjustable amount. That allows it to clear high spots in infill or warping feather edges that might get hit by the nozzle. The Zhop speed is also an option. Just above all the settings in Cura is the Settings Search box. Just to the right of it is a dropdown list for settings visibility. Select "All" in the visibility box. Down in the Speed section you will see "Z hop Speed" and set it to 1.5. I think this is an error in the Monoprice printer definition file (which is provided by Monoprice). I won't go into it but the default "speed_z_hop" of 10 is higher than the "machine_max_feedrate_z" of 1.5 so it won't slice.

@Atreyan the two gcode files are functionally identical until the start of Layer:0. You rotated the model 180° in one of them but that has nothing to do with the issue. This is the relevant portion of gcode and as I say, it is the identical in both gcode files. This is as I would expect since it's the StartUp Gcode from the Ender 3, 3Pro, and Ender 5 printer definition files. G29 ;Home G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F2700 E-5 It should finish the ABL procedure and swing right into printing the purge lines and then continue to the actual print. So there is no problem in the Gcode that I can see. Additionally the 4.10 version printed fine on my Ender 3Pro.

I went back and looked at your first photos. Did you get around to calibrating the E-steps? Along with the layer shift I thought it looked like it might be under-extruding as well.

"...why is it available on an Ender 3?" The variable "machine_center_is_zero" is always present and available for any user to change. The default is "False" and it has to be explicitly set either by the user or within a printer definition file where an Override could set it to "True". There is no override in any of the Creality definition files. I suppose it could be set to True if you happened to open a 3mf file and it was set to true. In that case I don't think there is anything to set it back to False either. Somebody from the Cura team will know more. If there was an Override in the Creality definition files that explicitly stated "machine_center_is_zero : = False" then that might work, but there isn't. Creality machine definition files were written by someone named "Trouch.com" who appears to have been contracted by Creality. Ultimaker does not write machine definition files for 3rd party printers as that would be impossible. By adjusting your Home Offsets you could actually run your Ender as a Center Origin machine. A person who had a Gcode file sliced for a Delta printer and wanted to print it on a cartesian printer would have the option of doing so.

The "No Printing" problem usually relates to the SD card as part of the gcode file gets written to an area with bad memory sectors. Re-formatting the card can help. The second thing is that maybe you have different StartUp Gcode in your 4.8 installation than in your 4.10 installation. This is generally easy to spot. So if you could post a "Good" gcode file and a "bad" gcode file here I'll take a look.

OK - 150mm/sec for speed and start moving the Accel up. As the quickness of the starts and stops increases, you will come to a point where the machine can no longer handle the motion. You will notice that it goes from "quick" starts and stops to "violent" starts and stops. Yes, it may result in skipped teeth on the belt. You can turn off the safety and run the printer at 400mm/sec but start with the Accel at 250 and move up from there. You can uncheck the "sync" boxes and enter different values for X axis and Y axis. That would allow you to run the X axis at say an Accel of 1000 and the Y axis at an Accel of 500. The circle courses in the program are generated with G2 and G3 commands. You want smooth motion around the circles as any stuttering will leave little blobs on a curve in a print. Once you get the settings the way you want them with the tool, use the "Send current Accel and Jerk and Save" button. It's rose colored and below the Com Port button. It will update the printer to the new settings. The Accel will become the printer MAX accel setting (M201). When you slice something, you can enter whatever accel you want and Cura will add an M204 line to the gcode, but the printer will limit it to the M201 Max Accel numbers. M201 is like a speed limit for Accel. Jerk is different as there is no Max so whatever you enter in Cura gets added to a gcode file as M205 X?? Y?? and the printer will use it. There is no "Max Jerk" gcode command (although the firmware will have Max Jerk values hard coded in).

#1. No. The speed will not be reduced but it cannot accelerate or decelerate as quickly. Consider that at 100mm/sec and 5000mm/sec² accel it takes 1mm to get up to speed and 1mm to stop. At 100mm/sec and 500mm/sec² accel it takes 10mm to get up to speed and 10mm to stop. That is where the weight is going to show up - in your acceleration setting. Jerk is in mm/sec and an inexact analogy is "minimum speed going around a corner". That won't play into things as much as your Accel setting. If you try to accelerate that extra 140g like you did without it - then you could very well start skipping teeth on your X belt. #2. Maybe. That is an answer to the question "Can the stepper motorr handle it?" but the question needs to be broader "Can the printer frame, wheel bearings, steppers, belts, etc. handle it?". I had a buddy that dropped a high performance V8 into a Simca. The first run down the track and the little uni-frame body had twisted so badly that when it came back it was only able to put three wheels on the ground at a time. The real advantage to DD is printing certain materials (like TPU) that can take advantage of the short filament path. I did a test with my printer and I can print large flat areas at 175mm/sec. I kept increasing the Acceleration during the print and at about 1200 the extruder could no longer keep up at the start of any extrusion. In that test it wasn't the XY steppers that were the problem, it was the E motor. Everything affects everything.

I haven't been here that long but I can recall one HERE. It is this picture I think that shows his hot end best and it looks like he has a three heater system on the hot end. I left a couple messages but he did not get back.

There are at least 2 ways to do this now. Using a Support Blocker you can select from the "Per Model Settings" and alter the settings for Overlaps. The Support Blocker then becomes a Mesh Modifier and you can add Infill Density as one of the settings to alter. Just move and scale it as you would a model. The other method is specific to helping support roofs. "Gradual Infill Steps" adjusts the infill density as it approaches a roof so the roof skin has sufficient support from the infill while the lower portion of the model will have sparse infill. This is with a support blocker set to 100% infill density while the rest of the part is at 10%. It would be just as easy to orient it horizontally.

If it works it's good. Safety is always a concern but at temps below 100 it shouldn't be stressing any components overly much. I don't print much ABS but when I do, I cover the machine and run the heated bed at 105. It's hot and I worry about the power supply and motors. I have had good success with PETG and it doesn't stress the machine near as much.

On the tool, set a speed and pick a course, then have it run the course. Change accel and/or jerk, then Prepare and then hit the green flag button to run the course. You can run up to 200mm/sec at the accel and jerk of your choice. When you click off the "speed limit" safety, you can run up to 400mm/sec. Essentially, make changes to the setup, Prepare (sends the accel and jerk to the printer) and Qualify (run the course). When running the circle courses I found that my Ender was happiest at 500 Accel and 8 Jerk. The speed didn't matter since with all the starts and stops of a circle the Accel setting holds the speed down and motion is smooth. So start the Accel and Jerk tool. Set the speed to 150. Enter your build plate size in the MaxX and MaxY boxes, Prepare, and then hit the green button. The first course is a diagonal but the Nascar course runs around the periphery of the build plate and gives a better indication of how the starts and stops will be handled. When the machine is finished moving the average speed is displayed in the boxes at the bottom. Make changes in Accel and/or Jerk and speed, and Prepare, and then hit the green button to run the course.

All there is on the manufacturer's website is a contact form to fill out. flyingbear3dprinter.com

Greg's Accel and Jerk Tool for Windows. Unzip and run the Setup file. It's unsigned (because I'm cheap) so you may have to fool your anti-virus to allow it to install. When it starts you may have to manually enter the port number. As a bonus, there is also a utility for printing from the SD card but running things from your PC. Enter your build plate size in the boxes at the upper left. Start out SLOW. At high Accel and Jerk and allowed speeds of up to 400mm/sec - some printers can hurt themselves.

If you go to "File | Save Project" and save the file that way the 3mf file will have the model, the printer, and your settings. Then post the 3mf file here. Somebody will take a look and see. There have been a couple of complaints recently over on Github regarding thin infill so there may be something going on with Cura. What version of Cura BTW?

This comes up once in a while but I haven't seen it that bad before. Yes, you can increase the flow of the infill (it's under the Material settings). That looks like it would need a big increase like to 150%. If the setting isn't visible then next to the Search Settings box is a drop-down for settings visibility. Set it to "All".

It looks like it was print speed 25, # of slower layers = 4, minimum speed = 10, Accel = 11, Jerk = 8. The rest of the main settings just need to be reasonable (line width = .4, layer height .1 to .2, etc.). The rocket was printed on a raft. Rafts are very high flow and can make up for problems with bed leveling. At first you might want to stick with raft for bed adhesion but they are hardest to remove. A brim or skirt gives a better part but you need to be good at getting the bed level.

The Start Gcode looks basic. The machine is printing slow throughout the file. (Cura speed settings are in mm/sec and gcode speeds are in mm/min). G1 F420 X28.999 Y49.392 E326.09967 ;last extrusion of the raft at 7mm/sec ;LAYER:0 M107 G1 F3600 E321.59967 ;retraction distance is 4.5 and the retraction speed is 60mm/sec G0 F1200 X34.227 Y49.983 Z1.730 ;travel speed is 20mm/sec ;TYPE:WALL-OUTER G1 F3600 E326.09967 ;retract prime speed is 60 G1 F420 X34.245 Y49.822 E326.10775 ;first extrusion of the first real layer is at 7mm/sec So printing speeds are: Layer:0 at 7mm/sec Layer:1 at 11mm/sec Layer:2 is at 15mm/sec Layer:3 at 19mm/sec Layer:4 thru Layer:52 are at 25mm/sec The speed starts to decrease after layer:52 and I assume that it was because the "minimum layer time" came into play. The final print speed is 10mm/sec which I will also assume is the "minimum speed" assigned in the Cura settings. The print speeds in that file along with earlier comments regarding Acceleration and Jerk settings are telling us "print very slowly". Of course then we see a retraction speed of 60 which I find very hard to believe in a file that has a "travel speed" of 20mm/sec. Many printers limit the E speed to 30. What we need next is a M503 query. I have a little Windows app that I've attached (modestly called Greg's SD Print Tool). It's for controlling SD card printing via a PC, and sends commands, then receives and displays the printer responses. (You can also use Pronterface/Printrun). The significant lines of M503 will be: M201 Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): M203 Maximum feedrates (units/s): M204 Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel> M205 Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_us> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk> Here is a screenshot with my M503 info: Greg's SD Print Tool.zip

@ais80 - Can you post that good gcode of the Rocket? We could use some more to work with here.

Sorry for my answer in English. It is called a skirt and the setting is under Bed Adhesion. It sounds like you are trying to print one file and then another file on top. That is advanced gcode splicing. An easier way is to use the Pause At Height plugin in Cura. You set the layer where you want to change color, the machine will pause at the layer and allow you to change filament, and then you click on the LCD button to resume. It does take some practice to get just right. Using the "At Height" option can be confused by Zhops in the gcode, but using "By Layer" works very well. Here is a little travel trailer/sleigh with drink coasters. 11 color changes using Pause at Height on the trailer/sleigh and 2 color changes on the coaster (there is a 1mm gold stripe). The windows and curtains were printed and then glued on. (Just to be clear - my wife made me do this. I would have gone with black and chrome).

Plus and Minus keys either on the numeric keypad or the regular keyboard. They still want to jump though. The mouse wheel "jump resolution" might be a result of the way scrolling is set in your Op System Mouse controls.

Support blockers (modifier meshes) can be moved and scaled to precise sizes. The attached 3mf file has a blocker 110 x 110 x .9 located at 0,0,0. It's just a cartoon and not a real model but you should get the idea. Drawing2A.3mf

Add a support blocker. You can move and scale it like any model. The tool above the Support Blocker tool is called "Per Model Settings" and you can select "Modify Settings for Overlaps". In the dialog there are two options for "Infill Mesh" and for "Cutting Mesh". I'll let you play to figure the difference. A support blocker can be configured to "define different options for a region".

Add a support blocker at the top and one at the bottom with both being 0.9 thick and with both configured for Top/Bottom thickness of .9, 0 Walls and 0 Wall thickness. The top of the upper support blocker will be flush with the top of the model. The most severe angle on my cartoon is much more than on your model. The bottom is in place and there are three walls all the way up BUT the loops are too far apart layer-by-layer and are air printing and not connected to the previous layer. That might resolve itself if there wasn't such a severe angle. In this case support doesn't help because you are printing unconnected model features for a few layers. AND the top is totally over air. You can't bridge with Concentric since the extrusions don't hit the walls.

If I understand correctly, it isn't precisely "top/bottom" layers that Cura is adding but rather what it refers to as "skin" in the gcode but think of it as an area of 100% Infill. This Skin Infill will get added on nearly every model with curved sides or angled sides. As the angle to the base plate approaches 0, the amount of Skin goes up. Conversely, as the angle approaches 90° the amount of Skin Infill approaches 0. Whether you ask for a specific wall thickness, or ask for a specific number of wall loops (which gives a specific wall thickness) then Cura will look at the model and provide that wall thickness at an angle of 90° (normal) to the angle of the wall. It's a function of slicing always being parallel to the build surface. It's hard to see in my image, but we have a goblet with a constant wall thickness of 3mm. You can see that a slice taken at Section AA is pretty wide. The slice taken at Section BB is much narrower. Section AA would have loops around the outside, and inside. The "Skin Inill" between them is to make up the wall thickness of the model as it builds up. Since Section BB is cut at nearly 90° to the part, there would be "none" to "very little" skin infill. Even in a solid model, if the number of Loops isn't sufficient to give the Wall Thickness you've asked for then Cura adds skins to make up the difference. I believe that is what you are seeing.