GregValiant

That's not much of a view but it looks like the model has a hole in it. Those types of models aren't suitable for vase mode because the nozzle has to move from the outside wall to the inside wall. It's possible you have coasting turned on as well. In Sprialize - Cura tries to do everything in a single loop but if there is a hole in the model then it can't. There is a definite beginning and end to each loop and you end up with seams on both the inner feature and the outer wall. I think that's what your image shows with those red lines that are crossing the middle. Those lines go from the outside wall, extrude across the space, and do the inside wall as if nothing happened. Then the inner wall extrusion stops, there is a travel move back to the outer wall, and extrusion starts again.

"I get the impression that Geeetech assumes we are all experts." They aren't the only 3d printer manufacturer that is guilty of that. The printer definition files are provided by members of the community and are only updated when a new version of Cura is released. It appears that a couple of people have submitted definition files for your printer and there was a conflict that needed to be resolved. I found files that might work. There are two files in the ZIP folder. "geeetech_Mizar_S.def.json" is the printer definition file and goes into "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.0\share\cura\resources\definitions" "geeetech_Mizar_S_1.def.json" is the extruder file and goes into "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.0\share\cura\resources\extruders" I don't know your printer and those definitions may be betas. If they don't work then an alternative is to install an A20 base model. geeetech_Mizar Files.zip

St. Paula the Patient took one look at the machine and stated "If I see chocolate all over the den that thing is going into the garage". I have been warned. I dared not bring up what the kitchen looked like after her last batch of fudge brownies. Back to #1. It never occurred to me to just put a little tin cup on the build surface of the printer and warm it up to 28 or 30°C. Duuh!!! One video stated that "melting chocolate" has a higher melting point and was unsuitable. I think I'll go there for an experiment. The results are in on this test: Stalagmites are tastier than Stalactites. Gravity may be involved. I've been printing with plastic the last day or so. The bag of Hershey's Nuggets needs a better hiding spot. My supplies are dwindling.

If you haven't removed the old one yet you could tape the new one to it (Head to tail) and when you pull out the old one the new one will pull in.

Welcome. You will appreciate that this is the UltiMaker forum so specific support for other printers is kind of hit or miss. In addition I personally have never heard of a Balco before. It looks like a basic cartesian printer though and I have done this job on my Ender. If you tape the ends of the two thermistor wires together and leave a smooth end you should have no problem feeding them through the loom. You could also straighten a coat hanger, push it through the loom from the mainboard end, and then tape the thermistor wires to it and pull them through. Tie wrapping them to the outside will work, but is "Mickey Mouse Repair" really the what you want? It isn't much more difficult to do it right.

Installing the Ender 3 Pro definition is fine. The regular Ender 3 definition has disallowed areas for the bed clips. Most people find that annoying. The problem you will have right away is that the 3 Pro definition may not have the Auto-Level command in the StartUp Gcode. That only takes a second to fix, but you need to know what the command is. Generally, Creality uses G92. This is part of the Ender 3 Pro startup gcode (even though it says Ender 3). ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle Add the three lines that I've highlighted in bold text: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached G29 ;Auto Bed Level G1 F600 Z5 ;Move the nozzle up G1 F6000 X0 Y0 ;Move to the left front corner M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle So the machine will auto-home, the hot end will be hot but not enough to ooze filament during leveling, the bed will be allowed to get up to Initial Layer Bed Temperature, then the Auto Level will run, the print head will rise up a bit and then move to the corner so if there is any oozing it will happen away from the build area, and then the nozzle will heat up to Initial Layer Print Temperature. You can find the StartUp Gcode by going to Settings / Printers / Manage Printers and then Machine Settings.

If you will post one of the gcode files that does not work someone will look at it. The commands that start the printer are part of the printer definition file. You can see them by going to Settings / Printer / Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. The code in the StartUp Gcode box gets attached to every gcode file and runs before the actual print starts. The Ending Gcode gets attached after the main print has ended and shuts the printer down.

This one is with "Wipe Nozzle Between Layers" enabled in your 3mf file (it's in the Experimental section). And this one is with it disabled. I suggest you always start out a Cura session by using the Setting Visibility tool (to the right of the Setting Search bar) and set the visiblity to "All". Sometimes you need one of these settings ("Remove all Holes" and "Make Overhangs Printable" are favorites) and then forget about it and they remain enabled and your next project is wonky. If a setting is out of sight it's out of mind.

A couple of example files would help. Load a model with your settings profile that causes this and then use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here. It might be helpful if you would also post one of the "bad" gcode files. Settings like "Lift Head" and "Wipe Nozzle between Layers" can have this effect.

Here we have a tale of two models that were identical until I put a hole through the one on the right. The model on the left is suitable for Spiralize. The model on the left is not. Spiralize is enabled. Left model sliced. Right model sliced. Comparing the two gcode files, the gcode shows that both models are spiralized and on each layer (above the base layers) the Z gradually increases until the nozzle is back to the XY layer start. At that point it is one layer height above the previous XY layer start. The difference is that the path of the model with the hole must cross over the empty space in order to do the wall of the hole. All of that is part of the path and so there is an extrusion from the outside to the inside. When the inside is finished the extrusion ends and there is a travel move back to the outside at which point it is one layer height above the previous XY start. What else can it do? Essentially once the bottom layers have printed there are two islands. One is the inner bore and the other is the outside of the model. The nozzle has to move from one island to the other and then back. One way the nozzle is extruding (as that portion of the path requires) and after finishing the extrusion portion of the path it travels back to the layer start point. The result will be a seam on the wall of the inner bore and a seam on the outer wall. In this model I've added a slot .1mm wide that goes from the outside to the bore. This model will truly spiralize but there will be a wall (it will look like a double wall) because of the slot. You can see that there are no travel moves and other than the scar of the slot, there is no seam. Some models just aren't suitable to be spiralized. Models with holes won't work whether the holes are vertical or horizontal. You cannot have more than one model on the build plate when spiralize is enabled as you have two islands and the same problem arises and both models will have seams.

There was nothing in any of the videos I watched that said "Do not use a double boiler to melt milk chocolate because it will never get firm again." It is a bit of a messy operation. It is a bit of a messy operation. (just in case anyone missed #2) Mechanically and software-wise it seems to be fine. The lead on the aluminum plunger doesn't want to fit into the silicone seal. The result (admittedly after only one attempt) is that the silicone piece cocked. There will be some rework there. A huge plus is that scrap material is really good on ice cream. I'm putting the printer back to plastic for a bit so I can print a stand to hold the plastic containers vertical. Filling them was the biggest part of the mess. Then I'll give it another go.

The best I've been able to do is 1 move across the tube and it has to do with the support. I moved the Z seam and layer start to the left front corner of the build plate. GV2_neck.3mf

Welcome. Xvico's have had some problems integrating with Cura. You should be able to get it to work though. Since there is no definition file for your printer you have two options. You can install an Ender 3 Pro and change the name, or you can install a custom FFF printer and input your printer information. Either way the "Heated bed" option will be checked and I know that not all Xvicos had heated beds. If you DON'T have one then you would need to go into the Cura "Manage Printers" and then "Machine Settings" and de-select the option for the heated bed. You would also need to check the StartUp Gcode box for M190 and M140. If either or both of those are in there and you do not have a heated bed then your printer won't print (it will just get stuck trying to heat a bed that isn't there). If M190 (wait for bed) is in the StartUp Gcode put a semi-colon in front of the line like: ;M190 S60. That will make it a comment and the printer will ignore it. If you have a gcode file that won't print AND your printer does NOT have a heated bed then open the gcode file in a text editor like Windows Notepad and look for M140 and M190. If they are in there they will be before the "LAYER:0" line. Put a semi-colon in front of any M140 and M190. Try to print it again. There is a Facebook Group for Xvico owners and you may get some help on Reddit.

I wonder if that gray area is a "Disallowed Area" described in your printer definition file? I don't get that area with a Chiron active in Cura and it appears that you have Build Plate Adhesion set to None. What version of Cura are you working with? I apologize is some of this is basic or things you already know. I'm surprised that Home Offsets isn't a menu option on your LCD. I am NOT surprised that "Disable Endstops" isn't available. With the Endstops disabled the print head can crash into things that are just off the build plate. Not good. Is your Auto-Home location the same as the printer 0,0,0? After Auto-Homing the XYZ locations shown on the LCD reflect the current location of the nozzle relative to the Home Offset 0,0,0. They are in fact the Home Offset numbers. "how the printer firmware will react" is a point well taken. You can fool Cura because it doesn't care how big you make your build plate. You can't fool the printer though. My guess would be that the printer will indeed take a location like X400 Y400 and be capable of getting there. The printer will put the origin of the gcode file at it's 0,0,0. On my printer that would be the Home Offset location since I have designated the point I want to be 0,0,0. If there is no Home Offset designation then the gcode origin will be placed at the Auto-Home location as that is the 0,0,0 of the printer. Here is how a Chiron loads in my 5.1 install. No gray area around the border. I know the Ender 3 definition has disallowed areas for the bed clips whereas the Ender 3 Pro definition does not. I don't know why my definition would be different than the one you are using.

Another thread here.

Thanks. I made a couple of changes I thought might help and I'm attaching my effort. It looks pretty good and I don't see any moves through the interior of the tube. I moved the part so the bottom of the gooseneck is at about the midpoint of the build plate. Using "Z seam relative" with the location at X0 Y0 puts the Z seam direction at the midpoint of the part. When the part splits and start printing as islands the Z seam of both islands face inward towards each other. I did the same with the Layer Start X and Y. Enabling "Avoid Supports When Traveling" also made a difference for the area where the lower support has split into islands. I set the "Travel Avoid Distance" to 3mm. GV_neck.3mf

Load up a model, prepare your Cura settings for slicing, and use the "File | Save Project" command. Post the 3mf file here.

I recall seeing a bug report regarding Tree Supports on GitHub where this problem occurred. Oddly enough, this behavior wasn't the subject of the report so I'm having trouble finding it. Maybe @nallath can comment.

Depending on the actual size of the print you may need to adjust the "Minimum Layer Time". The default is 10 seconds and if Cura determines that a layer will take less time than that it slows down the speed to maintain the 10 second minimum. The minimum speed can become involved as well. You have to be careful when making the minimum time shorter though. Layers that are too fast don't cool nearly enough and can just smoosh down. You can end up with the worlds worst case of elephant's foot. Looking at the preview I'm guessing that because you initial layer consists of Skin it takes much longer than the single walls of the following layers.

All the chocolate in the house has nuts in it. I'm guessing they won't pass through a .84 nozzle. At some point I'll get off my butt and get some proper Hershey's nuggets. I did a dry run of a simple vase and all the motion looked good. My printer is also an Ender 3 Pro so everything went together as it should. The wiring is sort of festooned over the machine. That will need to be addressed. I did make some changes to the start up gcode. I don't know that "#" is a proper comment character. I changed them to semi-colons. I added the M302 S175 and M92 S97 to the Ending Gcode. M302 self-resets anyway and I figured if I set the Esteps back to my normal setting after every print it wouldn't hurt anything.

It's in the firmware and all you can do is Auto-Home and then time how long it takes for the steppers to time out and disable. M84/M18 are identical and the settings don't show up in an M503 query. As far as I know there is no way to ask the firmware what the default setting is. If you set the disarm timeout to 1800 in Pause at Height then when the print ends and sees the M84 line in the ending gcode - that will reset the disarm timeout to whatever the default is. The disarm time can be temporarily adjusted but there is no way to save a new default.

Generally, higher acceleration numbers will give better corners. At 1800 they should be crisp, but your Jerk settings at 8 may be too low. Jerk is in mm/sec and if you think of it as "minimum speed around a corner" you can see that your slowing down a lot before changing directions. Those rounded areas may be blobs. Leave the Accel at 1800 but move the Jerk up to 20. It shouldn't take but a few layers to see if there is any improvement. I agree that the problem is in the Accel and Jerk settings. It may take some experimenting to find the sweet spot where the proper combination yields good results.

A minor update: I have the hardware in place and @burhop's definitions installed. It all looks good. I have to make a chocolate run to the store.

These are the last two lines before Cura puts the pause code in. G1 F2100 E362.18397 > This is the last E location G0 F9000 X144.442 Y126.314 > This is the last XY and is the start point of the first extrusion after the pause. ....after the pause... G1 F9000 X144.442 Y126.314 > This line moves the print head back to the start point of that first extrusion G1 F300 Z2.2 ; move back down to resume height G1 F2100 E125 G1 F2100 ; restore extrusion feedrate M82 ; switch back to absolute E values G92 E362.18397 > And this line syncs the extruder back to the gcode. One of the problems you can incur during a pause is allowing the steppers to disable and lose their position information. The printer actually requires an Auto-Home to fix the problem but the end stop switches on most printers aren't real repeatable. X0 Y0 may not be the same exact point in space that it was prior to the pause. You could get a layer shift of up to around .5mm in the X, the Y, or both. You never want to have to drop the Z with a print on the plate. It often requires careful planning so it would happen in a position that the print head and gantry don't whack the print. The default stepper time out on my Ender is 120 seconds. The Pause At Height dialog has "Disarm Timeout" which you can use to change the printer setting for the current print only. The Max is 1800 seconds (30 minutes) and I suggest you set Disarm Timeout to 1800. If you leave it at 0 then the default will be used and in my case if I don't finish the filament change in 2 minutes the steppers will disarm and lose their location. The print will start, but where the nozzle is becomes a guess. If that is what happened then the X, Y, and Z on the LCD may be blinking.

"My Anycubic Chiron can print XY 400mm x 400mm on its glass 410mm x 430mm build plate." The physical size of the build plate, and the actual Printable Area are two different things. Since your model is line-to-line to the limit of the Printable Area in the Cura Machine Settings - Cura won't slice. Anycubic has provided a 5mm safety area on the left and right, and a 15mm safety area along the front and rear. If you go into Manage Printers and then Machine Settings and change the build plate size to 405 x 405 the model will slice and it will fit your build plate. There are really several settings involved in this (Home Offsets, software end stops, etc.) but for a single model the above should work and should print properly.