GregValiant

I didn't have any trouble with the Windows version of 5.2.1. The model is very high resolution. It can be simplified in MS 3D Builder. A level 1 simplification will make a big difference in file size and complexity that the slicers have to deal with. This is your model. The slice took a while but it did finish.

Sorry for the response in English. My Italian is so rusty that it is non-existent. Register for warranty? You would need to go to the AnyCubic webste. They should have instructions on where they put the nomenclature tag on the printer. If you want to install it in Cura, Cura 5.2.1 has a definition file for the Kobra Max in "non-networked printers" that you should use. I don't know if previous versions of Cura had the definition as that model printer is fairly new.

This model should have brought up the "Model is not water-tight and may not print correctly." warning. If a model has an open seam then it isn't water tight and the slicer can't figure out where the outside ends and the inside begins. Cura has an "X-Ray" view that can highlight those sorts of errors. The red areas are errors in the model. Here it is in MS 3D Builder. You can see the warning in the lower right corner. Here it is sliced. Here is the repaired model. MS 3D Builder is pretty good at repairs. Cura has a plugin called Mesh Tools that is available in the MarketPlace. Install it and restart Cura. When you select a model and then right click, Mesh Tools will show up in the menu. It has some repair capability but there are tools available that are geared to repair. GV_gonnakms.stl

First thing - go to the Mesh Fixes section and see if "Remove all Holes" is enabled. If it is then disable it. It's a specialty setting that (like Make Overhangs Printable) is rarely used. If it is already turned off then use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Sketchup is notorious for creating models inside-out and Cura gets confused.

I had a model of a switch box that needed to be printed with the opening horizontal. That made for a lot of roof support and it needed to have the outer wall around the support. The rear wall way inside was really tough to get out and there were a couple of small internal features that would break off when I removed the support. I had thinned out the support as much as I could and that's when I thought of dropping the flow. It worked like a charm for me. The support was a lot weaker but did it's job in holding up the big roof. The extra air gap on the floor meant the interface barely stuck and it came out as a single piece instead me having to worry every little bit with the Exacto knife.

I can read what happens in the gcode but I have my own news. I've re-written part of the PauseAtHeight code. There are two main changes and some minor ones. One change moves the "Extrude" to before the nozzle goes back to the print so no more blob. The other adds multi-line capability to "Gcode before pause" and "Gcode after pause". When I figure out how to do a proper Pull Request on GitHub I'll submit it. In the meantime I'm looking for beta testers. You need to copy one file to the Scripts folder in the Cura installation folder. When I install Cura on my Windows printer I can't overwrite anything in the Cura folder. I must "share" the folder with myself and then it's OK. You might have to do something like that to get write privileges in the folder. The following is for Windows. Mac and Linux should be similar. In Windows go to "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". You will see the file "PauseAtHeight.py". Rename that file to "PauseAtHeight-old.py". Download the file below. Extract the file and copy "PauseAtHeight.py" to "...\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts" folder. Start Cura. You won't need to use the Search and Replace anymore. You can move that code and put it into the "Gcode after Pause" box. Instead of the "\n" between commands you put a comma. For example: Method = M25 Gcode after Pause = G91,G1 Z5,G90,G1 X0 Y0 F6000,M117,M117,M117,M117,M117,M117 It's supposed to work. Let me know how you make out. PauseAtHeight.zip

You can write up a bug report on the GitHub site. The developers check it often. I don't have the option for that function as I'm in compatibility mode so those buttons aren't there. I've learned to live without it since I've never had it.

It can't be printed in Vase Mode in it's entirety because the top threads will not be supported as the surface they mount to is horizontal and so is ignored in vase mode. There is a double wall there as well but it would be hidden. It can't be printed in Surface mode for the same reason. If you can ignore the Z seam line (or figure out where it needs to be so it is out of view when this is mounted) then the easiest thing is to print the bottom with Cura set up with a single Outer Wall (.6 line width) and then a support blocker on the top with the bottom of the blocker at Z=161. The support blocker would be configured as an Infill Mesh with 2 walls and to change the line width to .4 so the threads print nice. The 2 walls of the Infill Mesh will add to the single wall that is already in the main settings. GV lamp.3mf The next option is a tad complicated. If you can do it you get your Masters Degree in Cura. This is the quicky version. Add a Pause At Height at Layer 805. Slice the model at .6 line width in Vase Mode and save the Gcode as Lamp Bottom.gcode. Turn off Vase Mode and slice the model again but at .4 line width. Save the file as "Lamp Top.gcode". Combine the two files at the Pause layer. The XY location needs to be the start of the first extrusion after the pause. The Z location and the E location can be handled with G92 lines although for this model the Z would continue and not need an adjustment.

"It comes up with the message "The configuration is incorrect" after doing an experiment where I replaced one pin on the extruders with an inline spark(which form blenders default extruder distance)" I don't understand. What printer? Where does the message appear? On the printer LCD? In Cura on the computer? How are you printing...SD card, USB, Octoprint/RaspPI? "Replaced one pin on the extruders" You have more than one extruder? What is a "pin"? "inline spark" I have no idea what that is. "which form blenders default extruder distance". I don't understand that one either. Did you check that the X and Y motors are connected correctly?

The Cura X-Ray view shows problems at the ends of the ridges. Maybe they don't go all the way to the wall and their ends are open??? I used Mesh Mixer to repair it as it was a bit beyond the Cura Mesh Tools plugin. MS 3D Builder is pretty good as well. The repaired model is on the right. And it's obvious that @Torgeir took typing in school as he is way faster than me.

Do you know much about 3D printers? I found some information but it will be a project getting the machine to print. It was made for WiFi usage and was very proprietary. That doesn't mean it's impossible, but it isn't for the faint of heart either. I found some good info on this GitHub page. Don't worry about installing it in Cura yet. First thing is to get it to move. Turn on the printer and plug in the USB cable. Plug the USB cable into your computer (which should be on and ready to do stuff). Start Cura. It has a plugin called USB printing that should be enabled upon installation of Cura. Download this gcode file. I copied it from that github page and it is supposed to be for your printer. (It's a calibration cube.) Mod-T.gcode I MAKE NO PROMISES ABOUT THIS GCODE FILE. I found it in a junk pile. Generally speaking it is a bad idea printing someone else's gcode. Be ready to shut your printer off if starts howling in agony. Open that gcode file in Cura. The blue "Save to Disk" button in the lower right corner has an arrow on the right end. Click on it and select "Print via USB" and then click the big button. Once you click the big button this Monitor screen should come up and you should see the temperature of the hot end start to rise. You don't have a heated build plate so the bed temperature won't rise. You aren't looking for a perfect print here. Just want to make the machine move. If it starts making a horrible racket then shut it off. Both a Cura setup file and a Slic3R setup file lists the firmware as RepRap. You can add it as a custom printer in Cura. There are a couple of other small printers like yours that you could install in Cura and make some changes in the Machine Settings,

The one I posted is fixed (so far as I can tell). I had to simplify it twice to get the resolution down to something sane and then IdeaMaker was able to fix it. The other utilities I use still didn't like it. The beard won't print though. It looks like it's just stuck onto the model rather than being part of it. I'm seeing a new trend to make models as high a resolution as possible. The slicers really struggle trying to cut through so many triangles/layer and if/when they finish slicing - there is no way that the printer can control the molten plastic enough to provide that sort of resolution. Try that "IdeaMaker Real Simple..." model and see how the slice looks.

You cannot alter a built-in profile. That's why when you have "Dynamic 0.16" active the "Update..." option is greyed out. Switching to your Custom "Airplane Profile A" allows updating. I have 4 profiles. One each for TPU and PETG and a "Fast PLA" and "Fine PLA". I treat them like the built-in profiles and they give me a base to start customizing the settings. Every model starts with one of those four base profiles and then it gets tweaked until I like the preview. Then I throw it all away and go back to a base for the next model. That's what works for me. Some folks save every configuration they come up with. That's fine for them but I can't remember what I had for breakfast so having a bazillion profiles would be pretty useless. This whole 3D printing thing is difficult enough without adding more complexity.

Here's a video. CHEP is usually pretty good (although I didn't watch this one).

Cura always knows the volume of any extrusion. L x W x H. Cura also knows the diameter of your filament (which you should have measured so it's exact in Cura). So the volume of filament is PI x r² x L. When Volume of Filament IN = Volume of Extrusion OUT then flow is 100%. But there are possible mismatches. If Cura was set to "Volumetric" extrusion, and the printer was not (or vice versa) then the Flow will be wrong. Both the printer and Cura need to be set the same in regards to Volumetric. If Cura is set to 2.85 diameter filament and the printer is actually 1.75 diameter filament then the Flow will be wrong. The diameters need to match. I mention those because I have a Micro-Swiss hot end myself mounted to the stock extruder/bowden setup.

That model is fine and the bottom is flat. The issue must be in your settings. My Ender doesn't like ironing at 10% flow. At 7% parts come out very good. Every printer is going to be at least a bit different. I print on the Creality glass with the textured surface so the bottoms of my prints always pick up the texture. "Also keep in mind Cura likes to put down 120% flow" @jirodriguez72 that would be from the printer definition file of whatever printer you have. Most printer definitions don't call for that even though it is helpful when starting out. I run my Initial Layer Flow at 105% as it pretty much guarantees a good first layer and takes care of inconsistencies in my piece-of-paper leveling.

"I am confused about saving changes to a profile." The "I'm confused about Profiles" club has a lot of members (including me). "I want to keep the changes I made to the current profile I am was using, and change to a new profile without making any changes to the new profile." You only alter the default settings of a profile when you select "Update Profile..." from the bottom of the drop down list that appears when you click on the profile, or when selecting the "Update Profile" button in the Manage Profiles dialog box. If you are working with ProfileA and it is set up for Wall Count = 3, and you change that to Wall Count = 5 then you have created an "override" for the setting. Then you decide you want ProfileX and so you click on it. ProfileX was set to Wall Count = 1. So Cura asks if you want to keep the overridden settings. If you select "Yes" then ProfileX will become active but the Wall Count will still be 5. ProfileX doesn't change, but the overrides stay in place. If you select "Discard" then ProfileX will become active with all it's defaults and Wall Count will be back to 1 (there won't be any overrides). If you want to save your overrides to a profile then activate the profile and select "Update Profile with Current Settings/Overrides" from the dropdown list (or the button in Manage Profiles dialog). You have to specifically state that you want a custom profile to be changed. If you don't, then any "overrides" are temporary and when you re-select the Profile you are going to get the same questions again. That probably doesn't help much but it's the best I can do.

There are two settings that are really useful...once in a while. The one you have there looks like "Make Overhang Printable" in the Experimental settings. The other one is "Remove All Holes" in the Mesh Fixes. Most folks only need them occasionally. Then they forget to turn them off. Don't ask how I know that. You're really going to try and print those threads?

It looks like it was extruding from one direction, quit near the middle, and then came from the other side. The extrusions don't line up. It could be a setting or the bottom of the model isn't flat?? With the model loaded in Cura, and Cura set up ready to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Someone will take a look.

From what I've read the Creality definition file for the Ender 3 Pro (at least) was altered to add that "heat to standy" line to keep down oozing during the Auto-Level routine. It's in there whether you have an ABL or not. You can stick a semi-colon in front of the line and the printer will ignore it. I would suggest that you change it to M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}. That will start the hot end heating and start the bed heating without waiting. This is from the new definition file: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle

That's what I was trying to do. There are a lot of holes. The shoe laces themselves are a pain, something is going on with the beard, and eyes are in backwards or something. The model has a lot of errors. I tried cutting it into pieces figuring I could repair the pieces and reassemble the model. That didn't work either. Areas like the sides of the shoes don't have any mesh over them. They are just holes into the interior which appears to be hollow. Whatever software was used to create this didn't stitch it up everywhere. It kinda looks like somebody had a bunch of body parts laying around (Igor??) and glued them together but didn't do a proper "Union" operation. One problem I'm having is that Mesh Mixer and 3D Builder keep crashing when trying to deal with this and so two of my main tools won't work. We're talking about a model that is very high resolution at 1500mm tall. Scaling it down to fit on my Ender increases the density of the triangles by a factor of 6. Couple that with the fact that the model has almost half a million errors and my little laptop just looked at me and said "You have got to be %$#@ing me!". While I was typing all of that I was working on the model. I simplified it another step and decided to give IdeaMaker a try. I don't like to do peoples homework for them but in this case I'll give you the model cuz it's a complete pain in the butt. If you can get the beard to print you'll get the Rudyard Kipling "You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din" award. Ideamaker Real Simple_Untitledav1-export.stl

There are a couple of reasons for areas to come out like that. Models with errors confuse a slicer and (in this case) Cura couldn't figure out what to do so it ignored those spots. I tried to fix the file with Mesh Mixer and with MS 3D Builder and both crashed during the repair. After simplifying the model I tried again. This report is from https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair and it timed out (4 minute limit) trying to fix it. -> Analyzed your file: --> 222043 Naked edges (?) --> 51 Planar holes (?) --> 27084 Non-planar holes (?) --> 4 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 6 Inverted faces (?) --> 0 Degenerate faces (?) --> 8 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?) The model is extremely dense at 1500mm tall. Scaling the model to 250 tall makes the mesh 4 times as dense. So in my unprofessional opinion, that model be broke. PrusaSlicer hated trying to slice it as well and the "The model won't be printable" message came up. Here is the X-ray view in Cura. Red areas indicate problems. Here is the sliced view in PrusaSlicer. Note how the missing layers line up with the red areas in the Cura view. Another reason for an incomplete slice would be that the Line Width you have set won't fit into the area being sliced. That may happen on the fingers of that model. Think of printing a knife edge. As it narrows - it's width approaches 0 and the nozzle won't fit.

Here is a model I simplified in 3D Builder. See if it makes a difference. I'm going to read it into AutoCad and see if those wigglies are still there. Simple 1 BangiukasBottom.stl EDIT: I don't like that one at all.

Hi @frink Here are a couple of shots of my print. I don't know how much it would effect things but I scaled it to 75% size to make it quicker. Here is a shot of the model in 3D Builder. I'm wondering how the mesh density "striping" is contributing to those wiggly lines (which I also saw in my AutoCad representation). I tried to get this centered. The triangle density is high at the top and bottom of the image, and at distinct intervals it transitions to lower density.

Did you notice if the print head was stuttering? If it is stopping for just a fraction of a second you can get divots like that as the nozzle re-softens the plastic near it.